My wood floor was sanded and refinished by the previous owner. I need
to redo one section in the middle of the room that has splintered.
Previous owner doesn't remember, and I honestlty cannot tell, if he
used water-based or oil-based polyeurathane. Any definitive way to
test it?

Regards,
-John

wrote in message
...
My wood floor was sanded and refinished by the previous owner. I need
to redo one section in the middle of the room that has splintered.
Previous owner doesn't remember, and I honestlty cannot tell, if he
used water-based or oil-based polyeurathane. Any definitive way to
test it?

Regards,
-John

If it is fairly new, just look at the wood. water based goes on water
clear. Oil based give a mellow yellowish tinge to the wood. I fit is very
old, it may be darkened anyway. As the original owner if it stunk up the
house for a day or two? If so it is oil based.

2years old. I'm tempted to say it's not mellow yellowish. No longer
can contact original owner. Would acetone or thinner remove poly if
it were oil-based? I'm thinking to test a patch in the closet.


If it is fairly new, just look at the wood. *water based goes on water
clear. *Oil based give a mellow yellowish tinge to the wood. I fit is very
old, it may be darkened anyway. *As the original owner if it stunk up the
house for a day or two? If so it is oil based.

That's my problem: the hardware store said I must not use water based
poly over oil based. I'd rather use water because I have kids and the
smell is a killer. Are you suggesting that there are some water-based
polys out there that can adhere to oil-based finish? If so, I'd be
interested to know.
Thnanks.


It most likely doesn't matter. Go to a real paint supply store and tell
them what you're doing. They'll recommend a finish that's compatible with
either one.

--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement

wrote:
That's my problem: the hardware store said I must not use water
based poly over oil based. I'd rather use water because I have
kids and the smell is a killer. Are you suggesting that there are
some water-based polys out there that can adhere to oil-based
finish?

Once dried it doesn't much matter what the vehicle of the original
coating was. Oil or water, it needs to be sanded prior to applying
another top coat of either oil or water poly.

Your real problem is that raw wood finished with oil poly will look
different from that finished with water poly. If it were me, I'd try
a bit of each on a small area adjacent to the existing finish, remove
the one that doesn't match (when dry) and refinish with the one that
did.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
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On Mar 17, 5:05*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
wrote:
That's my problem: the hardware store said I must not use water
based poly over oil based. *I'd rather use water because I have
kids and the smell is a killer. *Are you suggesting that there are
some water-based polys out there that can adhere to oil-based
finish?

Once dried it doesn't much matter what the vehicle of the original
coating was. *Oil or water, it needs to be sanded prior to applying
another top coat of either oil or water poly.

Your real problem is that raw wood finished with oil poly will look
different from that finished with water poly. *If it were me, I'd try
a bit of each on a small area adjacent to the existing finish, remove
the one that doesn't match (when dry) and refinish with the one that
did.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Alcohol might be a remover for water base, it is for latex paint. Call
Poly manufacturers I think the store employee is wrong, The finish is
cured and you can use anything as long as you clean and sand it.