I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is 12
X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an opening
about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside that would
normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction (would need to
add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16". Anyway, I'm in a
quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want to
just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the attic
and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so). One side
of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd still use
this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away from that
existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My goal is to just
cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to the other side of
the box (would cross between the headers of the two existing walls) and just
use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up through the "lip" with
mounting holes right through the existing drywall ceiling and into the old
existing joist and the newly install joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but for
the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through this hole
until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws in through
this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then of course seal
in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4". Does that
sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between the ceiling
drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it directly onto
the existing drywall.



What do you think?



TIA Djay

"djay" wrote in message
news:m%[email protected]...
I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside
that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction
(would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16".
Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want to
just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the attic
and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so). One
side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd
still use this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away
from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My
goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to
the other side of the box (would cross between the headers of the two
existing walls) and just use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up
through the "lip" with mounting holes right through the existing drywall
ceiling and into the old existing joist and the newly install joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through this
hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws in
through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then of
course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4".
Does that sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between the
ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
directly onto the existing drywall.



What do you think?



TIA Djay

Sounds fine as long as there is an adjustment to make up for that half inch
of sheetrock. Otherwise the cover will be hanging down half inch from the
ceiling

"djay" wrote in message
news:m%[email protected]...
I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside
that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction
(would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16".
Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want to
just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the attic
and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so). One
side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd
still use this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away
from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My
goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to
the other side of the box (would cross between the headers of the two
existing walls) and just use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up
through the "lip" with mounting holes right through the existing drywall
ceiling and into the old existing joist and the newly install joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through this
hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws in
through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then of
course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4".
Does that sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between the
ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
directly onto the existing drywall.



That's usually how I do it, but without adding any additional wood bracing.
On the side of the fan housing that will be against the existing joist I
drill a screw hole about three quarters up near each corner. I use them to
screw the fan housing to the side of the joist. I also screw that bottom
lip in from underneath. That gets the housing up solid enough to where you
almost don't need the spanning brace, but I use it anyway.

The joist spanners that came with the Panasonic fan are quite solid. You
will only need to install one. I usually attach the U bracket loosely on
the side that does not have the duct connector. That makes it easier to
slide the joist spanner in while up in the attic. You can snug up the
screws after the spanner is in place.

When cutting the hole in the ceiling, make a notch for the U bracket. Also
on the side that the duct connector will attach the hole must be almost the
full size of the lip so that the duct connector can seat properly. The
finish trim is big enough to cover the larger opening.

Don't forget to use the thumb screw to secure the duct connector to the
housing. There is a little hole near the internal electrical plug that it
goes into.

I recommend that you use knee pads and a dust mask.

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"djay" wrote in message
news:m%[email protected]...
I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside
that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction
(would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16".
Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want
to just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the
attic and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so).
One side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd
still use this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away
from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My
goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to
the other side of the box (would cross between the headers of the two
existing walls) and just use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up
through the "lip" with mounting holes right through the existing drywall
ceiling and into the old existing joist and the newly install joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through
this hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws
in through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then
of course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with
4". Does that sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between
the ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
directly onto the existing drywall.



That's usually how I do it, but without adding any additional wood
bracing. On the side of the fan housing that will be against the existing
joist I drill a screw hole about three quarters up near each corner. I
use them to screw the fan housing to the side of the joist. I also screw
that bottom lip in from underneath. That gets the housing up solid enough
to where you almost don't need the spanning brace, but I use it anyway.

The joist spanners that came with the Panasonic fan are quite solid. You
will only need to install one. I usually attach the U bracket loosely on
the side that does not have the duct connector. That makes it easier to
slide the joist spanner in while up in the attic. You can snug up the
screws after the spanner is in place.

When cutting the hole in the ceiling, make a notch for the U bracket.
Also on the side that the duct connector will attach the hole must be
almost the full size of the lip so that the duct connector can seat
properly. The finish trim is big enough to cover the larger opening.

Don't forget to use the thumb screw to secure the duct connector to the
housing. There is a little hole near the internal electrical plug that it
goes into.

I recommend that you use knee pads and a dust mask.

That's good advice and is pretty much exactly what I was going to do. I
like the idea of using the screws through the side of the housing... I may
do that if installing the extra wood brace becomes.... "challenging"

As the other poster mentioned, I put the plastic fan cover in place and it
looks like it will snug up to the ceiling without a gap. Has that been your
experience too?

if you want real quiet install a remote fan, the motor fan goes at the
exhaust and the duct goes back to a plain louver in the bath..........

super quiet, all exhaust fans make noise espically as they age

"djay" wrote in message
news:m%[email protected]...

I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
opening about 8 X 10.

Good call, we put a Panasonic in our kitchen and it's so quiet we have stand
under it and look to know it's running, yet it moves just as much air as the
noisy fans like NuTone. It isn't meant as a stove vent fan so we put it in
the middle of the room and it's worked great there at dumping heat and
humidity when we're cooking.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through this
hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws in
through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then of
course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4".
Does that sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between the
ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
directly onto the existing drywall.



What do you think?

That is exactly how ours was installed and it works fine, the cover more
than conceals the flange screwed to the ceiling, I see no reason not to do
it this way.

On Mar 14, 10:39*am, "DGDevin" wrote:
"djay" wrote in message

news:m%[email protected]...

I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
opening about 8 X 10.

Good call, we put a Panasonic in our kitchen and it's so quiet we have stand
under it and look to know it's running, yet it moves just as much air as the
noisy fans like NuTone. *It isn't meant as a stove vent fan so we put it in
the middle of the room and it's worked great there at dumping heat and
humidity when we're cooking.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
for the other side of the fan hole). *I'd push the new fan up through this
hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. *I'd put screws in
through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. *Then of
course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4".
Does that sound doable? * *I guess normally this lip would be between the
ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
directly onto the existing drywall.

What do you think?

That is exactly how ours was installed and it works fine, the cover more
than conceals the flange screwed to the ceiling, I see no reason not to do
it this way.

No way I'd install another joist to support a fan. It's not like
it's 200 lbs. Fasten it to the existing joist and use the joist span
brackets that came with it.

As for noise, IMO the good fans that cost $50 more, like the Panasonic
are so much quieter than the cheap crap ones that it's not worth going
beyond that with a seperately remotely mounted fan unit.

Just an FYI, I am not familiar with Panasonic fans, but on the Broan
fans, the side where the plastic exhaust comes out gets in the way of
putting a second bracing parallel to the joist. So you might want to
check if you can put a second brace on the Panasonic and make sure
nothing is in the way.

"djay" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"djay" wrote in message
news:m%[email protected]...
I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside
that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction
(would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16".
Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want
to just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the
attic and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so).
One side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist.
I'd still use this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole
away from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box.
My goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up
to the other side of the box (would cross between the headers of the two
existing walls) and just use some longer pan head wood screws to screw
up through the "lip" with mounting holes right through the existing
drywall ceiling and into the old existing joist and the newly install
joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit
the larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist
but for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up
through this hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put
screws in through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist
above. Then of course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3"
exhaust duct with 4". Does that sound doable? I guess normally this
lip would be between the ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a
downside to installing it directly onto the existing drywall.



That's usually how I do it, but without adding any additional wood
bracing. On the side of the fan housing that will be against the existing
joist I drill a screw hole about three quarters up near each corner. I
use them to screw the fan housing to the side of the joist. I also screw
that bottom lip in from underneath. That gets the housing up solid
enough to where you almost don't need the spanning brace, but I use it
anyway.

The joist spanners that came with the Panasonic fan are quite solid. You
will only need to install one. I usually attach the U bracket loosely on
the side that does not have the duct connector. That makes it easier to
slide the joist spanner in while up in the attic. You can snug up the
screws after the spanner is in place.

When cutting the hole in the ceiling, make a notch for the U bracket.
Also on the side that the duct connector will attach the hole must be
almost the full size of the lip so that the duct connector can seat
properly. The finish trim is big enough to cover the larger opening.

Don't forget to use the thumb screw to secure the duct connector to the
housing. There is a little hole near the internal electrical plug that
it goes into.

I recommend that you use knee pads and a dust mask.

That's good advice and is pretty much exactly what I was going to do. I
like the idea of using the screws through the side of the housing... I
may do that if installing the extra wood brace becomes.... "challenging"


As the other poster mentioned, I put the plastic fan cover in place and it
looks like it will snug up to the ceiling without a gap. Has that been
your experience too?


I've never had a problem with the plastic trim. It is a little deep to
accommodate the screws that you install from underneath. Make sure that the
extra wood brace does not interfere with the duct connector.

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"djay" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"djay" wrote in message
news:m%[email protected]...
I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size
is 12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has
an opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the
underside that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new
construction (would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of
the normal 16". Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly
install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult
to install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I
want to just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in
the attic and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing
so). One side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling
joist. I'd still use this point as a starting point and expand the
drywall hole away from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new
Panisonic box. My goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner
joist to snug up to the other side of the box (would cross between the
headers of the two existing walls) and just use some longer pan head
wood screws to screw up through the "lip" with mounting holes right
through the existing drywall ceiling and into the old existing joist
and the newly install joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit
the larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist
but for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up
through this hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd
put screws in through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist
above. Then of course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3"
exhaust duct with 4". Does that sound doable? I guess normally this
lip would be between the ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a
downside to installing it directly onto the existing drywall.



That's usually how I do it, but without adding any additional wood
bracing. On the side of the fan housing that will be against the
existing joist I drill a screw hole about three quarters up near each
corner. I use them to screw the fan housing to the side of the joist.
I also screw that bottom lip in from underneath. That gets the housing
up solid enough to where you almost don't need the spanning brace, but I
use it anyway.

The joist spanners that came with the Panasonic fan are quite solid.
You will only need to install one. I usually attach the U bracket
loosely on the side that does not have the duct connector. That makes
it easier to slide the joist spanner in while up in the attic. You can
snug up the screws after the spanner is in place.

When cutting the hole in the ceiling, make a notch for the U bracket.
Also on the side that the duct connector will attach the hole must be
almost the full size of the lip so that the duct connector can seat
properly. The finish trim is big enough to cover the larger opening.

Don't forget to use the thumb screw to secure the duct connector to the
housing. There is a little hole near the internal electrical plug that
it goes into.

I recommend that you use knee pads and a dust mask.

That's good advice and is pretty much exactly what I was going to do. I
like the idea of using the screws through the side of the housing... I
may do that if installing the extra wood brace becomes.... "challenging"


As the other poster mentioned, I put the plastic fan cover in place and
it looks like it will snug up to the ceiling without a gap. Has that
been your experience too?


I've never had a problem with the plastic trim. It is a little deep to
accommodate the screws that you install from underneath. Make sure that
the extra wood brace does not interfere with the duct connector.

It's all in and operational. Fairly easy installation and would have gone
twice as quick had I had someone helping from underneath! I saw that the
duct flange was going to be impeaded by the joist so I just loosly screwed
in the fan through the side to hold it in place, went above and installed
the second joist and then went back down to screw the box in place. Worked
GREAT!

Now my bathroom is QUIET!

Thanks for the help!

Djay

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
Just an FYI, I am not familiar with Panasonic fans, but on the Broan
fans, the side where the plastic exhaust comes out gets in the way of
putting a second bracing parallel to the joist. So you might want to
check if you can put a second brace on the Panasonic and make sure
nothing is in the way.

Thanks - FYI the Panisonic fan box is metal and on one side is the duct
adapter and electrical box (all in one peice). That comes off so you can
slide the box in and then re-attaches above once the box is installed. The
Panisonic duct adaper is metal and it would have interfered with the brace
but I left about an 1/8 inch clearance when I installed the brace so it all
worked out fine.

Thanks,

Djay

"djay" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"djay" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"djay" wrote in message
news:m%[email protected]...
I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size
is 12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has
an opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the
underside that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new
construction (would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of
the normal 16". Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly
install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult
to install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I
want to just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up
in the attic and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before
doing so). One side of the existing fan is already attached to a
ceiling joist. I'd still use this point as a starting point and expand
the drywall hole away from that existing joist accordingly to fit the
new Panisonic box. My goal is to just cut the hole, install an new
spanner joist to snug up to the other side of the box (would cross
between the headers of the two existing walls) and just use some
longer pan head wood screws to screw up through the "lip" with
mounting holes right through the existing drywall ceiling and into the
old existing joist and the newly install joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit
the larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing
joist but for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan
up through this hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling.
I'd put screws in through this lip, up into the drywall and into the
joist above. Then of course seal in the fan from above and replace
the 3" exhaust duct with 4". Does that sound doable? I guess
normally this lip would be between the ceiling drywall and joist but I
can't see a downside to installing it directly onto the existing
drywall.



That's usually how I do it, but without adding any additional wood
bracing. On the side of the fan housing that will be against the
existing joist I drill a screw hole about three quarters up near each
corner. I use them to screw the fan housing to the side of the joist.
I also screw that bottom lip in from underneath. That gets the housing
up solid enough to where you almost don't need the spanning brace, but
I use it anyway.

The joist spanners that came with the Panasonic fan are quite solid.
You will only need to install one. I usually attach the U bracket
loosely on the side that does not have the duct connector. That makes
it easier to slide the joist spanner in while up in the attic. You can
snug up the screws after the spanner is in place.

When cutting the hole in the ceiling, make a notch for the U bracket.
Also on the side that the duct connector will attach the hole must be
almost the full size of the lip so that the duct connector can seat
properly. The finish trim is big enough to cover the larger opening.

Don't forget to use the thumb screw to secure the duct connector to the
housing. There is a little hole near the internal electrical plug that
it goes into.

I recommend that you use knee pads and a dust mask.

That's good advice and is pretty much exactly what I was going to do. I
like the idea of using the screws through the side of the housing... I
may do that if installing the extra wood brace becomes....
"challenging"

As the other poster mentioned, I put the plastic fan cover in place and
it looks like it will snug up to the ceiling without a gap. Has that
been your experience too?


I've never had a problem with the plastic trim. It is a little deep to
accommodate the screws that you install from underneath. Make sure that
the extra wood brace does not interfere with the duct connector.

It's all in and operational. Fairly easy installation and would have gone
twice as quick had I had someone helping from underneath! I saw that the
duct flange was going to be impeaded by the joist so I just loosly screwed
in the fan through the side to hold it in place, went above and installed
the second joist and then went back down to screw the box in place.
Worked GREAT!

Now my bathroom is QUIET!

Thanks for the help!

Djay


Now instead of hearing fan noise you will be trying to listen to see if it
is actually working. :-) Congratulations on the install.

djay wrote:

I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan ...

It's all in and operational. ...

Now my bathroom is QUIET!

I don't think the local big box stores carry Panasonic bathroom exhaust
fans. Where did you get yours?

"All Thumbs" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
djay wrote:

I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan ...

It's all in and operational. ...

Now my bathroom is QUIET!

I don't think the local big box stores carry Panasonic bathroom exhaust
fans. Where did you get yours?

Got mine online he http://www.westsidewholesale.com/

Djay