I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot with
posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set the pipe
in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any experience with
this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth it. Some of my old
fence posts did break at the ground level due to moisture.

On Mar 6, 7:38 am, "peter" wrote:
I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot with
posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set the pipe
in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any experience with
this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth it. Some of my old
fence posts did break at the ground level due to moisture.


Wood in contact with soil is the major cause of fence failure.
Poor detailing that traps moisture & prevents the fence from drying is
another significant cause.

So the metal pipe will help a lot IF the bottom of the post is not in
contact with the soil.

If the bottom of the fence boards touch the soil, the will still be at
risk for rot.

What size pipe?
And do they use other design details that will avoid rot / termites &
extend fence life?

An extra 10% seems pretty cheap to add a feature that will add a few
years (at least) to the fence life.


cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
...
On Mar 6, 7:38 am, "peter" wrote:
I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot with
posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set the
pipe
in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any experience
with
this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth it. Some of my old
fence posts did break at the ground level due to moisture.


Wood in contact with soil is the major cause of fence failure.
Poor detailing that traps moisture & prevents the fence from drying is
another significant cause.

So the metal pipe will help a lot IF the bottom of the post is not in
contact with the soil.

If the bottom of the fence boards touch the soil, the will still be at
risk for rot.

What size pipe?
And do they use other design details that will avoid rot / termites &
extend fence life?

An extra 10% seems pretty cheap to add a feature that will add a few
years (at least) to the fence life.


cheers
Bob


The answers are yes, no, definitely, and maybe. I love it when someone
writes in here, and doesn't give a clue about what they are asking about or
where they live.

Meaning ........... what part of the country is this in? You said some of
them had rotted off, so I would ASS-U-ME that you live where rot is a
consideration. I live in Nevada and Utah, and fence posts lasts for decades
out in the worst of conditions.

I am a big fan of do it once, do it right. I would have the metal poles set
in concrete with a small wash on every one. A wash is a rounded top to the
concrete that keeps the water from pooling around the base of the pipe.
Have the wash extend a couple of inches above the soil line.

Fence post failure is a big PITA because you have to take down a lot to
change a fence post. And then you're back in the same position, ..........
wood or steel?

Do it once, do it right.

YMMV. You might be rich and have a lot of money and it doesn't matter. If
that's the case, please contact me at your earliest convenience as I have a
bridge for sale, and it is priced very reasonably. No qualifying, either.

Steve ;-)

In article keUzj.9715$Td2.2072@trndny08, "peter" wrote:

I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot with
posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set the pipe
in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any experience with
this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth it. Some of my old
fence posts did break at the ground level due to moisture.

I have not heard of the [metal pipe inside the wooden post] technique.

I would not build a wooden fence, in ANY area of our fine country, unless the
posts were of steel and set properly in concrete. No wood posts or wood
touching the ground PERIOD. Good luck.
--

JR

No project too small
All projects too big

peter wrote:
I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot
with posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set
the pipe in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any
experience with this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth
it. Some of my old fence posts did break at the ground level due to
moisture.

And for 10% LESS they'd just use a metal post.

Why would you cover a metal post with a wood veneer? If the fence is
oriented right, you won't see the posts anyway.

theres a new kinda post, vinyl or plastic underground with metal pst
that actual wood post sits on.

vinyl should last forever, galavanized metal post forever.

since the wood post never touches dirt it should last much longer
too..........

this was on this old house

"peter" wrote in message
news:keUzj.9715$Td2.2072@trndny08...
I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot with
posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set the
pipe in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any
experience with this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth it.
Some of my old fence posts did break at the ground level due to moisture.




As long as the wood does not contact the cement, you'll be ok.

On Mar 6, 7:38*am, "peter" wrote:
I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot with
posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set the pipe
in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any experience with
this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth it. Some of my old
fence posts did break at the ground level due to moisture.

Check out the Master Halco Postmaster. http://www.fenceonline.com/postmasterwood.html
Stronger then wood and easy to hide.

RobertPatrick wrote:

And for 10% LESS they'd just use a metal post.

Why would you cover a metal post with a wood veneer? If the fence is
oriented right, you won't see the posts anyway.



You'll see them if like here, the posts must be in your own yard.
That is so the good side faces the neighbors.

Okay, I'll play. If I'm paying for the fence, WHY would I want the "good"
side facing the neighbors?

In article , "HeyBub"
wrote:

Okay, I'll play. If I'm paying for the fence, WHY would I want the "good"
side facing the neighbors?

I have occasionally wondered the same thing.

However, it is typical that the "good" side faces "out" from the newly fenced
area. Chainlink, vinyl, wood, it doesn't matter - they "all" face out.

I suppose this is to improve the appearance of the fenced property when viewed
from OUTSIDE the property.
--

JR

HeyBub wrote:
RobertPatrick wrote:
And for 10% LESS they'd just use a metal post.

Why would you cover a metal post with a wood veneer? If the fence is
oriented right, you won't see the posts anyway.


You'll see them if like here, the posts must be in your own yard.
That is so the good side faces the neighbors.

Okay, I'll play. If I'm paying for the fence, WHY would I want the "good"
side facing the neighbors?



Because most places, that is what code requires?

aem sends...

on 3/7/2008 10:18 PM HeyBub said the following:
RobertPatrick wrote:

And for 10% LESS they'd just use a metal post.

Why would you cover a metal post with a wood veneer? If the fence is
oriented right, you won't see the posts anyway.



You'll see them if like here, the posts must be in your own yard.
That is so the good side faces the neighbors.


Okay, I'll play. If I'm paying for the fence, WHY would I want the "good"
side facing the neighbors?

Like others have said, it may be code, it looks better when people look
at your property, and it is neighbor friendly.
You can comply with code, improve the appearance on both sides of the
fence, and keep the neighbors happy, by using a fence that looks the
same on both sides.
IMHO, a chain link fence doesn't look good on either side.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

In article ,
willshak wrote:

IMHO, a chain link fence doesn't look good on either side.

But they don't look BAD.

....and they are less expensive to install, require no maintenance and last
virtually "forever".
--

JR

willshak wrote:

Okay, I'll play. If I'm paying for the fence, WHY would I want the
"good" side facing the neighbors?

Like others have said, it may be code, it looks better when people
look at your property, and it is neighbor friendly.

Why should I care what people think when they look at my property? I've got
to look at it every day - they can just drive on.

Neighbor friendly? That's not a reason. I could give my neighbor $10 every
day - that would be the 'neighbor friendly thing to do - but obviously an
insane approach. I am not responsible for his artistic sensitivities. If he
doesn't like the looks of the fence, he's welcome to build his own! Heck,
I'd even let him attach HIS fence to MY posts (that's the neighbor-friendly
thing to do).

You can comply with code, improve the appearance on both sides of the
fence, and keep the neighbors happy, by using a fence that looks the
same on both sides.

I agree. Chain-link, stone, brick, barbed-wi all look the same from
either side.

IMHO, a chain link fence doesn't look good on either side.

on 3/8/2008 5:33 PM HeyBub said the following:
willshak wrote:

Okay, I'll play. If I'm paying for the fence, WHY would I want the
"good" side facing the neighbors?

Like others have said, it may be code, it looks better when people
look at your property, and it is neighbor friendly.


Why should I care what people think when they look at my property? I've got
to look at it every day - they can just drive on.

Neighbor friendly? That's not a reason. I could give my neighbor $10 every
day - that would be the 'neighbor friendly thing to do - but obviously an
insane approach. I am not responsible for his artistic sensitivities. If he
doesn't like the looks of the fence, he's welcome to build his own! Heck,
I'd even let him attach HIS fence to MY posts (that's the neighbor-friendly
thing to do).


If code allows that. Since the setback may be some distance from the
property line, the fences cannot be connected without violating the
setback requirement. But you can do whatever you like regardless of the
code, but be sure to be friendly with the neighbors. Most code
violations are reported by neighbors.

You can comply with code, improve the appearance on both sides of the
fence, and keep the neighbors happy, by using a fence that looks the
same on both sides.


I agree. Chain-link, stone, brick, barbed-wi all look the same from
either side.


IMHO, a chain link fence doesn't look good on either side.






--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

on 3/8/2008 11:22 AM Jim Redelfs said the following:
In article ,
willshak wrote:


IMHO, a chain link fence doesn't look good on either side.


But they don't look BAD.

....and they are less expensive to install, require no maintenance and last
virtually "forever".


A chain link fence on a property line is a trespass preventing marker.
It is unfriendly by saying, "This is mine. Do not pass".
The only unfriendly chain link fence is one around an inground pool,
other unsafe area, or an animal enclosure.
A solid fence is a privacy fence, for both sides.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Thu, 06 Mar 2008 15:57:25 -0600, Jim Redelfs
wrote:

In article keUzj.9715$Td2.2072@trndny08, "peter" wrote:

I received a bid for a cedar mod panel fence for about $23 per foot with
posts set in concrete.
For 10% more, they would put a metal pipe inside the posts and set the pipe
in concrete. This is supposed to last longer. Has anyone any experience with
this? I have to decide whether this upgrade is worth it. Some of my old
fence posts did break at the ground level due to moisture.

I have not heard of the [metal pipe inside the wooden post] technique.

He's probably talking about a plastic fence. Ugh. But didn't bother
to say that either.

I would not build a wooden fence, in ANY area of our fine country, unless the
posts were of steel and set properly in concrete. No wood posts or wood
touching the ground PERIOD. Good luck.

In article ,
willshak wrote:

[chainlink fences] are less expensive to install, require no
maintenance and last virtually "forever".

A chain link fence on a property line is a trespass preventing marker.

Is this unique to chainlink fencing?

It is unfriendly by saying, "This is mine. Do not pass".

This "logic" certainly applies to a privacy fence: "This is mine. Do not
pass and I don't even want you to SEE what's beyond."

The only unfriendly chain link fence is one around an inground pool,
other unsafe area, or an animal enclosure.

All other chainlink fences are friendly?

Yours is an ahem INTERESTING outlook on fencing.

Most fencing is for a utilitarian purpose. The rest, surely a vast minority,
is purely for asthetics. That, then, insists that the owner has a rather
weird sense of asthetics as NO fence is the ultimate in that regard.
--

JR