Tub to shower
 

I'm redoing my bathroom and installing a retrofit shower where the tub
was. I had a plumber remove the old plumbing and install and plumb the
base (cemented in) for me.

Problem is now one wall doesn't line up when I installed the cement
board. The 1/2" material fits 'behind' the shower base lip on one of 3
sides and the other 2 sides are ok.

I'm not going to ask the plumber to redo as it is cemented in. But it is
pushed to one side too much.

So, is there a trick I can use to make this look professional. The one
side that falls behind the shower lines up with the rest of the drywall
in the bathroom.

I purchased 1/4 inch cement backer board thinking I'd tack that on top
of the 1/2 so it'll line up with the shower pan and it does. But is
there a better way? The extra 1/4 will not, of course line up flush with
the drywall in the rest of the bathroom and it sticks out like a sore
thumb..
Thanks for any help..

Tub to shower
 

N O wrote:
I'm redoing my bathroom and installing a retrofit shower where the
tub was. I had a plumber remove the old plumbing and install and
plumb the base (cemented in) for me.

Problem is now one wall doesn't line up when I installed the cement
board. The 1/2" material fits 'behind' the shower base lip on one
of 3 sides and the other 2 sides are ok.

I'm not going to ask the plumber to redo as it is cemented in. But
it is pushed to one side too much.

So, is there a trick I can use to make this look professional. The
one side that falls behind the shower lines up with the rest of the
drywall in the bathroom.

I purchased 1/4 inch cement backer board thinking I'd tack that on
top of the 1/2 so it'll line up with the shower pan and it does.
But is there a better way? The extra 1/4 will not, of course line
up flush with the drywall in the rest of the bathroom and it
sticks out like a sore thumb..
Thanks for any help..

Maybe...

1. Remove that cement board

2. Cut off a 1 1/2" x 1/4" strip from a pressure treated 2x4 (or other
source/type of rot resistant material)

3. Afix it across the studs at the bottom of the "bad" wall

4. Mix up some thinset...watery enough to be plastic but not so much
that it slumps a lot

5. Slather a layer of thinset along the edge of each stud, top to
bottom

6. Put back cement board fastening to each stud at top and bottom
only. Clean off any thinset squeeze out.

7. After a couple of days, fasten the field area of the cement board
as well as the two vertical edges.

That would give you a slightly sloping wall but it will line up. When
tiling, do the "good" walls first so that the edge of their tiles at
the intersection of the "bad" wall will be covered when you tile the
"bad" wall; that way, the grout line will be nice and neat instead of
(possibly) ragged due to having to precisely cut each "good" wall tile
to accomodate the slope.

--

dadiOH
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