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Default chimney/flue questions

I'm installing a woodburning stove that accepts 6" stovepipe. Is there
any advantage to using an 8" chimney or can I keep the chimney at 6".

The chimney is not yet built.
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On Jan 17, 7:09*am, franz frippl wrote:
I'm installing a woodburning stove that accepts 6" stovepipe. Is there
any advantage to using an 8" chimney or can I keep the chimney at 6". *

The chimney is not yet built.


If it's a prefab, I would stick to 6". The chimney should be the size
of the stovepipe.
If it's a masonry chimney, the only reason to go bigger (7") is if you
want to more easily reline the chimney further down the road.. But, a
bigger chimney will create more draft, thus a little more heat lost to
the exterior.

I just installed a new woodstove in my home that came with a 6"
stovepipe exhaust. We had a 7" brick chimney built for it. It works
fine. I wanted a chimney that could be relined easily (in ~30 so
years).

Christian
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On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 05:26:46 -0800, christian_pare wrote:

On Jan 17, 7:09┬*am, franz frippl wrote:
I'm installing a woodburning stove that accepts 6" stovepipe. Is there
any advantage to using an 8" chimney or can I keep the chimney at 6".

The chimney is not yet built.


If it's a prefab, I would stick to 6". The chimney should be the size
of the stovepipe.
If it's a masonry chimney, the only reason to go bigger (7") is if you
want to more easily reline the chimney further down the road.. But, a
bigger chimney will create more draft, thus a little more heat lost to
the exterior.

I just installed a new woodstove in my home that came with a 6"
stovepipe exhaust. We had a 7" brick chimney built for it. It works
fine. I wanted a chimney that could be relined easily (in ~30 so years).

Christian




Thanks.
This is for a small (20x24') cabin with loft. I'm thinking of a prefab
metal chimney out the exterior wall. I know this is perhaps not the best
arrangement but I prefer not to punch a hole in the new roof.

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Default chimney/flue questions

On Jan 17, 8:50*am, franz frippl wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 05:26:46 -0800, christian_pare wrote:
On Jan 17, 7:09*am, franz frippl wrote:
I'm installing a woodburning stove that accepts 6" stovepipe. Is there
any advantage to using an 8" chimney or can I keep the chimney at 6".


The chimney is not yet built.


If it's a prefab, I would stick to 6". *The chimney should be the size
of the stovepipe.
If it's a masonry chimney, the only reason to go bigger (7") is if you
want to more easily reline the chimney further down the road.. *But, a
bigger chimney will create more draft, thus a little more heat lost to
the exterior.


I just installed a new woodstove in my home that came with a 6"
stovepipe exhaust. *We had a 7" brick chimney built for it. *It works
fine. I wanted a chimney that could be relined easily (in ~30 so years).


Christian


Thanks.
This is for a small (20x24') cabin with loft. *I'm thinking of a prefab
metal chimney out the exterior wall. *I know this is perhaps not the best
arrangement but I prefer not to punch a hole in the new roof. *- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It will work. Just make sure you follow all the manufacturer's
recommendations on the prefab chimney installation (READ:
clearances).

=)

Christian
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Default chimney/flue questions

It is possible to create too much draft. But going up just one pipe size
won' t do that. I have a fireplace insert with an 8 inch outlet and my
chimney is 12 inches square. Sometimes when i open the stove doors, it
just goes ape! Also the smaller pipe will stay cleaner due to it's running
hotter.

s


"franz frippl" wrote in message
. ..
I'm installing a woodburning stove that accepts 6" stovepipe. Is there
any advantage to using an 8" chimney or can I keep the chimney at 6".

The chimney is not yet built.





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Default chimney/flue questions

On Jan 17, 9:26´┐Żam, "S. Barker" wrote:
It is possible to create too much draft. ´┐ŻBut going up just one pipe size
won' t do that. ´┐ŻI have a fireplace insert with an 8 inch outlet and my
chimney is 12 inches square. ´┐ŻSometimes when i open the stove doors, ´┐Żit
just goes ape! ´┐ŻAlso the smaller pipe will stay cleaner due to it's running
hotter.


the effective size of a square or rectangular chimney is the largest
circle that can fit inside, so your 12 inch square isnt as oversized
as you might bellieve
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On Jan 17, 7:50*am, franz frippl wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 05:26:46 -0800, christian_pare wrote:
On Jan 17, 7:09*am, franz frippl wrote:
I'm installing a woodburning stove that accepts 6" stovepipe. Is there
any advantage to using an 8" chimney or can I keep the chimney at 6".


The chimney is not yet built.


If it's a prefab, I would stick to 6". *The chimney should be the size
of the stovepipe.
If it's a masonry chimney, the only reason to go bigger (7") is if you
want to more easily reline the chimney further down the road.. *But, a
bigger chimney will create more draft, thus a little more heat lost to
the exterior.


I just installed a new woodstove in my home that came with a 6"
stovepipe exhaust. *We had a 7" brick chimney built for it. *It works
fine. I wanted a chimney that could be relined easily (in ~30 so years).


Christian


Thanks.
This is for a small (20x24') cabin with loft. *I'm thinking of a prefab
metal chimney out the exterior wall. *I know this is perhaps not the best
arrangement but I prefer not to punch a hole in the new roof. *


Bad choice, poor draft and drainage problems. A roof isn't sacred, and
a prefeb near the peak will be perfect for your installation. Follow
code for height, use the right flashing exactly like the directions
(under the shingles upstream and over the shingles downstream) and
install a storm collar. The only real trick part is cutting the
elliptical hole so the pipe is nice and straight going through the
roof. HTH

Joe
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Default chimney/flue questions

On Jan 17, 7:26┬*pm, " wrote:
On Jan 17, 9:26´┐Żam, "S. Barker" wrote:

It is possible to create too much draft. ´┐ŻBut going up just one pipe size
won' t do that. ´┐ŻI have a fireplace insert with an 8 inch outlet and my
chimney is 12 inches square. ´┐ŻSometimes when i open the stove doors, ´┐Żit
just goes ape! ´┐ŻAlso the smaller pipe will stay cleaner due to it's running
hotter.


the effective size of a square or rectangular chimney is the largest
circle that can fit inside, so your 12 inch square isnt as oversized
as you might bellieve


You mean????
a) 12 by 12 = 144 sq. inches.
b) Pi x (r squared) = 3.142 x (6 x 6) = 113 sq. inches.
If and when you install a metal flue liner within an existing masonry
chimney?
c) Eight inch pipe. Pi x (4 x 4) = 50 sq. inches.
smaller pipe might be better in some circumstances and stay hotter for
less soot deposit?
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Default chimney/flue questions

On Jan 17, 5:21┬*pm, terry wrote:
On Jan 17, 7:26┬*pm, " wrote:

On Jan 17, 9:26´┐Żam, "S. Barker" wrote:


It is possible to create too much draft. ´┐ŻBut going up just one pipe size
won' t do that. ´┐ŻI have a fireplace insert with an 8 inch outlet and my
chimney is 12 inches square. ´┐ŻSometimes when i open the stove doors, ´┐Żit
just goes ape! ´┐ŻAlso the smaller pipe will stay cleaner due to it's running
hotter.


the effective size of a square or rectangular chimney is the largest
circle that can fit inside, so your 12 inch square isnt as oversized
as you might bellieve


You mean????
a) 12 by 12 = 144 sq. inches.
b) Pi x (r squared) = 3.142 x (6 x 6) = 113 sq. inches.
If and when you install a metal flue liner within an existing masonry
chimney?
c) Eight inch ┬*pipe. ┬*Pi x (4 x 4) = 50 sq. inches.
smaller pipe might be better in some circumstances and stay hotter for
less soot deposit?


airflow near corners is poor, thats why i said what i did
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Default chimney/flue questions

Given that theory, (which doesn't make sense) then you could get a 12" pipe
up my flue. And the area of a 12" circle is over twice that of the area of
an 8" circle. AND the area of the 12" square is almost THREE times the area
of an 8" circle. So, believe me, a 12" flue makes a hell of a lot more
draft than that of an 8" pipe. This was confirmed when i finally dropped 8"
single wall pipe down my chimmey and hooked it directly up to the stove
insert. No more raging away when i open the doors.

but thanks for playing,


steve

wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 9:26?am, "S. Barker" wrote:
It is possible to create too much draft. ?But going up just one pipe size
won' t do that. ?I have a fireplace insert with an 8 inch outlet and my
chimney is 12 inches square. ?Sometimes when i open the stove doors, ?it
just goes ape! ?Also the smaller pipe will stay cleaner due to it's
running
hotter.


the effective size of a square or rectangular chimney is the largest
circle that can fit inside, so your 12 inch square isnt as oversized
as you might bellieve




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Default chimney/flue questions

Yes, you got it.


steve


"terry" wrote in message
...
You mean????
a) 12 by 12 = 144 sq. inches.
b) Pi x (r squared) = 3.142 x (6 x 6) = 113 sq. inches.
If and when you install a metal flue liner within an existing masonry
chimney?
c) Eight inch pipe. Pi x (4 x 4) = 50 sq. inches.
smaller pipe might be better in some circumstances and stay hotter for
less soot deposit?


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"franz frippl" wrote in message
. ..
I'm installing a woodburning stove that accepts 6" stovepipe. Is there
any advantage to using an 8" chimney or can I keep the chimney at 6".

The chimney is not yet built.



Do not oversize. A 6" round has 28 square inches. An 8" is almost double
at 50 square inches.

From another reply you made. It is not hard to go through the roof, and is
a lot less expensive. Plus, you get the benefit of the heat off the pipe
inside.
--
John Galbreath Jr.
www.FireLogs.com
Irondale, Alabama
888.321.Logs

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