Late in 2006, I had a new furnace, A/C, Honeywell whole house
humidifier, plus electronic air cleaner installed in my home. Once the
cold weather hit in the fall, the heater did not come on. The solenoid
to the humidifier was replaced to fix the problem. Fast foward to Dec
06, the humidifier is not working. The solenoid is replaced again.
All is well until I turn on the heat for the first time last October.
The humidifier is not working. I call out the company that installed
the system. This time the saddle valve that feeds the humidifier from
the hot water side of my water heater is clogged. The tech opens and
closes the valve a few times and water starts flowing. I drained the
sediment out of the bottom of my water heater and changed the
humidifier filter a short time later.

The humidifier stopped again a little over a week ago. This time I
made sure that water was going to the humidifier. There is hot water
in the bottom of the rubber tube that goes between the solenoid and the
filter housing. The water is not making its way to the filter housing.
I blew air and water through the tube. I cleaned out the connection on
top of the housing. It still would not work. I made an appointment
for the tech to come out again. The guy who sold me my system called
me yesterday wanting to troubleshoot over the phone. We did pretty
much the same thing as did before I called and water started flowing
through the filter again. At that point, I thanked the guy and
cancelled the appointment.

A few hours after it was fixed, the water stopped flowing through the
filter again. There is hot water in the bottom of the rubber tube
where it attaches to the solenoid, but it is not making its way up to
the filter. The guy told me that if this happens again, to call a
plumber and have him install a T-joint in the water supply since he is
sure that it's sediment in the saddle valve that is causing the problem.

Correct me if I am wrong, but if the saddle valve was clogged, would
there not be any water making its way to the humidifier? The problem
is that the water is not being pushed up to the filter. Is that the
solenoid's function.

Any ideas? I don't want to waste money having a T-joint installed if
that is not the problem.

BTW, the humidifier is a Honeywell 265A.

Thanks!

--

In article ,
"Dan" wrote:

Correct me if I am wrong, but if the saddle valve was clogged, would
there not be any water making its way to the humidifier? The problem
is that the water is not being pushed up to the filter. Is that the
solenoid's function.

Any ideas? I don't want to waste money having a T-joint installed if
that is not the problem.

The solenoid is simply a water valve that is operated by an
electrical signal. When the humidity drops, the solenoid opens
and allows water to flow to the business end of the humidifier.
If the solenoid opens and you are getting little or no water
flow, the water line is plugged somewhere, but perhaps not
totally blocked, but blocked enough that have little or no
water pressure at the humidifier.

It first concerns me that the humidifier is tapped into
the hot water line. That opens you up to the problems with
scale in the hot water heater. I think it also would promote
the growth of bacteria.

Next, if you keep getting plugged up, I am far more concerned
about all this gunk getting into your food, drinking water,
and into your body. This goes double if you have lead solder
or lead pipes in the system. I think you want to consider
getting some water filters installed, and use an R/O system
in the kitchen for any water that goes into your food.

Finally, I think you do need to get a real water tap rather
than a saddle valve. Tap it off of the cold water. Then
clean out and back-flush the humidifier and any lines that
go to the humidifier. Finish it off by putting a sentiment
filter in the the line going to the humidifier.

You may also want to get your water tested. The gunk is
in your system for a reason. That reason might be that
you have hard or acidic water. You may need a softener
or a neutralizer. If you do have acidic water, it may be
that it is eating the pipes from the inside. If it is hard
water, you may have pipes that are getting build-up and
impacting your water pressure. All of these things are
bad for you plumbing system, and for your body. Get it
checked out before it causes any further health problems.

-john-

--
================================================== ====================
John A. Weeks III * * * * * 612-720-2854 * * * * *
Newave Communications * * * * * * * * * * * * http://www.johnweeks.com
================================================== ====================

John A. Weeks III wrote:

In article ,
"Dan" wrote:

Correct me if I am wrong, but if the saddle valve was clogged, would
there not be any water making its way to the humidifier? The
problem is that the water is not being pushed up to the filter. Is
that the solenoid's function.

Any ideas? I don't want to waste money having a T-joint installed
if that is not the problem.

The solenoid is simply a water valve that is operated by an
electrical signal. When the humidity drops, the solenoid opens
and allows water to flow to the business end of the humidifier.
If the solenoid opens and you are getting little or no water
flow, the water line is plugged somewhere, but perhaps not
totally blocked, but blocked enough that have little or no
water pressure at the humidifier.

It first concerns me that the humidifier is tapped into
the hot water line. That opens you up to the problems with
scale in the hot water heater. I think it also would promote
the growth of bacteria.

Next, if you keep getting plugged up, I am far more concerned
about all this gunk getting into your food, drinking water,
and into your body. This goes double if you have lead solder
or lead pipes in the system. I think you want to consider
getting some water filters installed, and use an R/O system
in the kitchen for any water that goes into your food.

Finally, I think you do need to get a real water tap rather
than a saddle valve. Tap it off of the cold water. Then
clean out and back-flush the humidifier and any lines that
go to the humidifier. Finish it off by putting a sentiment
filter in the the line going to the humidifier.

You may also want to get your water tested. The gunk is
in your system for a reason. That reason might be that
you have hard or acidic water. You may need a softener
or a neutralizer. If you do have acidic water, it may be
that it is eating the pipes from the inside. If it is hard
water, you may have pipes that are getting build-up and
impacting your water pressure. All of these things are
bad for you plumbing system, and for your body. Get it
checked out before it causes any further health problems.

-john-

My water is hard. No doubt about it.

Honeywell recommends using the hot water side, but you can use cold
water. My GF has had a Honeywell humidifier for over 7 years without
any clogging. Her saddle valve is hooked up to the cold water side of
her water heater avoiding the tank sediment.

I loosened the compression nut that connects the copper tubing to the
solenoid. Water just dribbled out out of the copper tube with the
saddle valve fully open. I also found an inline mesh filter inside the
solenoid that I cleaned out. The water started flowing again, but it
stopped like before. I loosened the compression nut again with only a
dribble of water coming out.

I'm strictly an amateur, but I am guessing that there should be a free
flow of water coming out of the copper tube with the saddle valve fully
opened. Am I correct?




--

All I can add to this Dan is that I had a Honeywell installed
2 years ago and have been sorry ever since.
Lou

In article ,
"Dan " wrote:

I'm strictly an amateur, but I am guessing that there should be a free
flow of water coming out of the copper tube with the saddle valve fully
opened. Am I correct?

Yes, water should flow like crazy out of the copper tube when
the saddle valve is open.

-john-

--
================================================== ====================
John A. Weeks III * * * * * 612-720-2854 * * * * *
Newave Communications * * * * * * * * * * * * http://www.johnweeks.com
================================================== ====================

In article ,
Dan wrote:

Honeywell recommends using the hot water side, but you can use cold
water. My GF has had a Honeywell humidifier for over 7 years without
any clogging. Her saddle valve is hooked up to the cold water side of
her water heater avoiding the tank sediment.

If you are getting that much sediment in the hot water, its likely the
water heater needs to be flushed. Do you know how? If not, here is the
short version:
Connect a garden hose to the valve at the bottom of the water heater.
Lead the other end of the hose outside or to a drain. Open the valve
for a few minutes and let the water run full bore. Close valve, remove
hose.

I'm strictly an amateur, but I am guessing that there should be a free
flow of water coming out of the copper tube with the saddle valve fully
opened. Am I correct?

Yes.

--
Rich Greenberg N Ft Myers, FL, USA richgr atsign panix.com + 1 239 543 1353
Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM'er since CP-67
Canines:Val, Red, Shasta & Casey (RIP), Red & Zero, Siberians Owner:Chinook-L
Retired at the beach Asst Owner:Sibernet-L

On Tue 01 Jan 2008 12:42:40p, John A. Weeks III told us...

In article ,
"Dan" wrote:

Correct me if I am wrong, but if the saddle valve was clogged, would
there not be any water making its way to the humidifier? The problem
is that the water is not being pushed up to the filter. Is that the
solenoid's function.

Any ideas? I don't want to waste money having a T-joint installed if
that is not the problem.

The solenoid is simply a water valve that is operated by an
electrical signal. When the humidity drops, the solenoid opens
and allows water to flow to the business end of the humidifier.
If the solenoid opens and you are getting little or no water
flow, the water line is plugged somewhere, but perhaps not
totally blocked, but blocked enough that have little or no
water pressure at the humidifier.

It first concerns me that the humidifier is tapped into
the hot water line. That opens you up to the problems with
scale in the hot water heater. I think it also would promote
the growth of bacteria.

Next, if you keep getting plugged up, I am far more concerned
about all this gunk getting into your food, drinking water,
and into your body. This goes double if you have lead solder
or lead pipes in the system. I think you want to consider
getting some water filters installed, and use an R/O system
in the kitchen for any water that goes into your food.

Finally, I think you do need to get a real water tap rather
than a saddle valve. Tap it off of the cold water. Then
clean out and back-flush the humidifier and any lines that
go to the humidifier. Finish it off by putting a sentiment
filter in the the line going to the humidifier.

You may also want to get your water tested. The gunk is
in your system for a reason. That reason might be that
you have hard or acidic water. You may need a softener
or a neutralizer. If you do have acidic water, it may be
that it is eating the pipes from the inside. If it is hard
water, you may have pipes that are getting build-up and
impacting your water pressure. All of these things are
bad for you plumbing system, and for your body. Get it
checked out before it causes any further health problems.

-john-


It seems pretty common in the Eastern US to run the humidifier from the hot
water heater. I've also not had trouble with saddle valves, not that they
can't be a problem.

FWIW, I would have bought an Aprilaire.

--
Wayne Boatwright

*******************************************
Date: Wednesday, 01(I)/02(II)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Necessity is the mother of strange
bedfellows. --Dave Farber
*******************************************

On Jan 1, 2:42*pm, "John A. Weeks III" wrote:
In article ,

*"Dan" wrote:
Correct me if I am wrong, but if the saddle valve was clogged, would
there not be any water making its way to the humidifier? *The problem
is that the water is not being pushed up to the filter. *Is that the
solenoid's function.

Any ideas? *I don't want to waste money having a T-joint installed if
that is not the problem.

The solenoid is simply a water valve that is operated by an
electrical signal. *When the humidity drops, the solenoid opens
and allows water to flow to the business end of the humidifier.
If the solenoid opens and you are getting little or no water
flow, the water line is plugged somewhere, but perhaps not
totally blocked, but blocked enough that have little or no
water pressure at the humidifier.

It first concerns me that the humidifier is tapped into
the hot water line. *That opens you up to the problems with
scale in the hot water heater. *I think it also would promote
the growth of bacteria.

Next, if you keep getting plugged up, I am far more concerned
about all this gunk getting into your food, drinking water,
and into your body. *This goes double if you have lead solder
or lead pipes in the system. *I think you want to consider
getting some water filters installed, and use an R/O system
in the kitchen for any water that goes into your food.

Finally, I think you do need to get a real water tap rather
than a saddle valve. *Tap it off of the cold water. *Then
clean out and back-flush the humidifier and any lines that
go to the humidifier. *Finish it off by putting a sentiment
filter in the the line going to the humidifier.

You may also want to get your water tested. *The gunk is
in your system for a reason. *That reason might be that
you have hard or acidic water. *You may need a softener
or a neutralizer. *If you do have acidic water, it may be
that it is eating the pipes from the inside. *If it is hard
water, you may have pipes that are getting build-up and
impacting your water pressure. *All of these things are
bad for you plumbing system, and for your body. *Get it
checked out before it causes any further health problems.

-john-

--
================================================== ====================
John A. Weeks III * * * * * 612-720-2854 * * * * *
Newave Communications * * * * * * * * * * * *http://www.johnweeks.com
================================================== ====================


Good grief. They guy has a humidifier problem and you're telling him
he's headed for health problems from hard water? There is no
connection between hard water and any health problems. Hard water is
simply excess minerals, many of which are necessary and beneficial to
the human body. If it's too hard, you may not be able to lather soap,
it may put stains in your toilet, but it's not going to harm you.

As far as connecting the humidifier to the hot water supply being bad,
that's where my Aprilaire has been for 10 years and it's working
perfectly. Like Honeywell, Aprilaire specifically says it's OK. It
increases the output capacity.

On Jan 2, 6:38*pm, Bubba wrote:
On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 05:15:48 -0800 (PST), wrote:
On Jan 1, 2:42*pm, "John A. Weeks III" wrote:
In article ,

*"Dan" wrote:
Correct me if I am wrong, but if the saddle valve was clogged, would
there not be any water making its way to the humidifier? *The problem
is that the water is not being pushed up to the filter. *Is that the
solenoid's function.

Any ideas? *I don't want to waste money having a T-joint installed if
that is not the problem.

The solenoid is simply a water valve that is operated by an
electrical signal. *When the humidity drops, the solenoid opens
and allows water to flow to the business end of the humidifier.
If the solenoid opens and you are getting little or no water
flow, the water line is plugged somewhere, but perhaps not
totally blocked, but blocked enough that have little or no
water pressure at the humidifier.

It first concerns me that the humidifier is tapped into
the hot water line. *That opens you up to the problems with
scale in the hot water heater. *I think it also would promote
the growth of bacteria.

Next, if you keep getting plugged up, I am far more concerned
about all this gunk getting into your food, drinking water,
and into your body. *This goes double if you have lead solder
or lead pipes in the system. *I think you want to consider
getting some water filters installed, and use an R/O system
in the kitchen for any water that goes into your food.

Finally, I think you do need to get a real water tap rather
than a saddle valve. *Tap it off of the cold water. *Then
clean out and back-flush the humidifier and any lines that
go to the humidifier. *Finish it off by putting a sentiment
filter in the the line going to the humidifier.

You may also want to get your water tested. *The gunk is
in your system for a reason. *That reason might be that
you have hard or acidic water. *You may need a softener
or a neutralizer. *If you do have acidic water, it may be
that it is eating the pipes from the inside. *If it is hard
water, you may have pipes that are getting build-up and
impacting your water pressure. *All of these things are
bad for you plumbing system, and for your body. *Get it
checked out before it causes any further health problems.

-john-

--
================================================== ====================
John A. Weeks III * * * * * 612-720-2854 * * * * *
Newave Communications * * * * * * * * * * * *http://www.johnweeks.com
================================================== ====================

Good grief. *They guy has a humidifier problem and you're telling him
he's headed for health problems from hard water? * *There is no
connection between hard water and any health problems. * Hard water is
simply excess minerals, many *of which are necessary and beneficial to
the human body. *If it's too hard, you may not be able to lather soap,
it may put stains in your toilet, but it's not going to harm you.

As far as connecting the humidifier to the hot water supply being bad,
that's where my Aprilaire has been for 10 years and it's working
perfectly. * Like Honeywell, Aprilaire specifically says it's OK. *It
increases the output capacity.

Trader........do you believe everything you read? Oh, that's right,
you are an EE.
Here, lets give you an experiment to do.
With your furnace and humidifier running and connected to the hot
water side, measure the temperature of the air exiting the humidifier
(being sure you are not seeing any plenum temperature from your
heating unit).
Now switch the unit to cold water and do the same experiment.
I could save you some time if you like and tell you how much
temperature difference you will see. Would you believe less than 1
degree? Now, tell me how you are going to see higher output with your
water line on the hot water side.
Bubba- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How water evaporates faster than cold water. That's just very basic
science. And why humidifier manufacturers recommend connecting to hot
water for higher output.

Dan wrote:

Late in 2006, I had a new furnace, A/C, Honeywell whole house
humidifier, plus electronic air cleaner installed in my home. Once
the cold weather hit in the fall, the heater did not come on. The
solenoid to the humidifier was replaced to fix the problem. Fast
foward to Dec 06, the humidifier is not working. The solenoid is
replaced again. All is well until I turn on the heat for the first
time last October. The humidifier is not working. I call out the
company that installed the system. This time the saddle valve that
feeds the humidifier from the hot water side of my water heater is
clogged. The tech opens and closes the valve a few times and water
starts flowing. I drained the sediment out of the bottom of my water
heater and changed the humidifier filter a short time later.

The humidifier stopped again a little over a week ago. This time I
made sure that water was going to the humidifier. There is hot water
in the bottom of the rubber tube that goes between the solenoid and
the filter housing. The water is not making its way to the filter
housing. I blew air and water through the tube. I cleaned out the
connection on top of the housing. It still would not work. I made
an appointment for the tech to come out again. The guy who sold me
my system called me yesterday wanting to troubleshoot over the phone.
We did pretty much the same thing as did before I called and water
started flowing through the filter again. At that point, I thanked
the guy and cancelled the appointment.

A few hours after it was fixed, the water stopped flowing through the
filter again. There is hot water in the bottom of the rubber tube
where it attaches to the solenoid, but it is not making its way up to
the filter. The guy told me that if this happens again, to call a
plumber and have him install a T-joint in the water supply since he is
sure that it's sediment in the saddle valve that is causing the
problem.

Correct me if I am wrong, but if the saddle valve was clogged, would
there not be any water making its way to the humidifier? The problem
is that the water is not being pushed up to the filter. Is that the
solenoid's function.

Any ideas? I don't want to waste money having a T-joint installed if
that is not the problem.

BTW, the humidifier is a Honeywell 265A.

Thanks!

Thanks to all who replied. I had a plumber install a shut off valve
earlier this morning to replace the saddle valve. Water is flowing
freely now. I wish the HVAC installers had done that to begin with.

--