Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.

My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.

I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.

So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,764
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:
I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.

My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.

I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.

So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.

Buy some roof cement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
of roof cement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.

R
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 4:26 pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:



I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.

Buy some roof cement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
of roof cement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.

R




Why would it leak? Maybe I didn't make it clear that the strips are
going over the shingles just to hold them down; I'm not expecting the
strips to provide any rain protection. I won't need many nails per
strip, and I'll put tar over the nails.

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,845
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 10:27 pm, wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:26 pm, RicodJour wrote:





On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.


Buy some roof cement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
of roof cement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.


R


Why would it leak? Maybe I didn't make it clear that the strips are
going over the shingles just to hold them down; I'm not expecting the
strips to provide any rain protection. I won't need many nails per
strip, and I'll put tar over the nails.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'll put tar over the nails

What's going to prevent the water from going through the nail holes
*under* the furring strips?

Please don't tell us you'll caulk around each furring strip to seal
the seam where it meets the roof.


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,764
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 10:27 pm, wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:26 pm, RicodJour wrote:



On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.


Buy some roof cement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
of roof cement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.


Why would it leak? Maybe I didn't make it clear that the strips are
going over the shingles just to hold them down; I'm not expecting the
strips to provide any rain protection. I won't need many nails per
strip, and I'll put tar over the nails.


I've changed my mind. You've convinced me that you're right. Zero
chance it'll leak. Nail away!

BTW, we'll be electing a new alt.home.repair moderator and I feel you
should nominate yourself. You've got mad construction skillz.

R
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Pat Pat is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?


wrote in message
...
I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.

My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.

I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.

So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


Once the shingles start flapping in the wind the roof needs to be replaced.
Gluing the shingles back down with roofing cement is the correct way to
proceed as a temporary repair until summer when the roof can be replaced.
However if you prefer to nail them down with boards go ahead. Or simply
skip the boards and nail the flaps down. May make the roof a little harder
to replace but I can't see any harm. Consider it a temporary repair until
you get some dry weather.


  #9   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,901
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Dec 3, 10:27 pm, wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:26 pm, RicodJour wrote:



On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off
of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance
of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back
yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.


Buy some roof cement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
of roof cement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.


Why would it leak? Maybe I didn't make it clear that the strips are
going over the shingles just to hold them down; I'm not expecting the
strips to provide any rain protection. I won't need many nails per
strip, and I'll put tar over the nails.


I've changed my mind. You've convinced me that you're right. Zero
chance it'll leak. Nail away!

BTW, we'll be electing a new alt.home.repair moderator and I feel you
should nominate yourself. You've got mad construction skillz.

R



That's sKiLlZ.


  #10   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 8:13 pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Dec 3, 10:27 pm, wrote:



On Dec 3, 4:26 pm, RicodJour wrote:


On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down withfurringstrips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.


Buy some roof cement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
of roof cement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.


Why would it leak? Maybe I didn't make it clear that the strips are
going over the shingles just to hold them down; I'm not expecting the
strips to provide any rain protection. I won't need many nails per
strip, and I'll put tar over the nails.


I've changed my mind. You've convinced me that you're right. Zero
chance it'll leak. Nail away!

BTW, we'll be electing a new alt.home.repair moderator and I feel you
should nominate yourself. You've got mad construction skillz.

R


I wasn't trying to argue with anyone, I was just asking for
information. Sorry to have bothered you.


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 9:14 pm, "Pat" wrote:
wrote in message

...



I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down withfurringstrips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


Once the shingles start flapping in the wind the roof needs to be replaced.
Gluing the shingles back down with roofing cement is the correct way to
proceed as a temporary repair until summer when the roof can be replaced.
However if you prefer to nail them down with boards go ahead. Or simply
skip the boards and nail the flaps down. May make the roof a little harder
to replace but I can't see any harm. Consider it a temporary repair until
you get some dry weather.



Thank you for your helpful reply, which I didn't realize would be so
hard to come by in this group. Everything you said makes sense, but
the roof is only five years old. The people who put it on are pretty
much the only roofers in this very small town, so I have no reason to
expect they will do it any better than the first time. To be fair to
them, my house is on top of a hill, and apparently sits right square
at the apex of a funnel formed by the terrain, so I get the strongest
winds around here, which is saying something. I had an anemeometer
rated for 80mph that broke.

I have a pension lump sum payment coming in a couple of years, and
when I get it I'll probably replace the roof with something designed
for the high winds, but I can't afford a replacement until then. For
now, I've just been nailing the shingles back on (which is what the
"pros" did for the first two years, then they said I was on my own).

I've been using very short nails which I don't think are long enough
to go all the way through the plywood on the roof. At any rate, I've
nailed a lot of shingles up there over the past three years, and I
haven't seen any leaks. And like I said, I put tar over the nails.
Should that work for a few years if I refresh the tar every summer?

I guess I could go over the whole roof and glue every shingle, but
geez that sounds like a lot of work. A lot of them *are* glued,
because when I was watching the storm a big section of them, about the
size of a car door, was flapping as a unit. That's what made me think
that nailing furring strips over them might help. I think the problem
is that it rarely gets up to 70 degrees in the summer here, so the
glue doesn't melt well. And I could probably get away with just
putting the strips on the windward edges, because that's where all the
damage was.

One of the comedians here accidentally made a helpful comment about
leaking from under the furring strips. If I put some gobs of tar on
the shingles, then put the board on top of the tar, and then nailed
throught the board, tar, and shingles (before the tar dries), would
that make it waterproof? Would using silicone sealant instead of tar
make any difference?

Thanks for any help, and sorry to bother the other guys.
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,575
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

wrote:

I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.

My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.

I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.

So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


I'm not sure what "architectural" shingles are, but I think we have them
) Elk Prestige Plus, I believe. We have an unusual roof on our
condo, with steep mansards on each building. In addition to a poor
installation (improper nailing), they were a poor choice for steep roofs
(formerly concrete tile). After a couple of major reworks, and still
losing shingles, the roofer started applying roof cement under each
tab. Our city also changed the regulations for shingles on steep roofs,
requiring cement under each tab of the shingle. Then came the
hurricanes, in 2005?, and we had a "stuck fast" roof! Max. winds here
were 70 mph, and we lost a skylight but not one shingle. Many of the
buildings in the neighborhood lost many shingles and even concrete
tiles, but ours stayed on. Don't recall whether these shingles are
rated for Dade, but the extra adhesive seems to have made a great
difference.

In regard to your furring strips, any uncovered nail hole is likely to
cause leaking. I suppose you could fashion some way of putting cement
under the strips as you nail, but it sounds really hideous. In
addition, bare wood is likely to deteriorate rather quickly on a roof
... it's creative, but does not sound like a good idea.
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,764
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 4:29 pm, wrote:
On Dec 3, 9:14 pm, "Pat" wrote:
On Dec 3, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down withfurringstrips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


Once the shingles start flapping in the wind the roof needs to be replaced.
Gluing the shingles back down with roofing cement is the correct way to
proceed as a temporary repair until summer when the roof can be replaced.
However if you prefer to nail them down with boards go ahead. Or simply
skip the boards and nail the flaps down. May make the roof a little harder
to replace but I can't see any harm. Consider it a temporary repair until
you get some dry weather.


Thank you for your helpful reply, which I didn't realize would be so
hard to come by in this group. Everything you said makes sense, but
the roof is only five years old. The people who put it on are pretty
much the only roofers in this very small town, so I have no reason to
expect they will do it any better than the first time. To be fair to
them, my house is on top of a hill, and apparently sits right square
at the apex of a funnel formed by the terrain, so I get the strongest
winds around here, which is saying something. I had an anemeometer
rated for 80mph that broke.


In such a high wind area you should have used shingles with a higher
wind rating and used an increased nailing pattern (six nails instead
of four per 3' shingle). Basically all information necessary is right
on the shingle package wrapper.

I have a pension lump sum payment coming in a couple of years, and
when I get it I'll probably replace the roof with something designed
for the high winds, but I can't afford a replacement until then. For
now, I've just been nailing the shingles back on (which is what the
"pros" did for the first two years, then they said I was on my own).

I've been using very short nails which I don't think are long enough
to go all the way through the plywood on the roof.


The kiss of death for any roof. The nails _must_ penetrate the roof
sheathing.

At any rate, I've
nailed a lot of shingles up there over the past three years, and I
haven't seen any leaks. And like I said, I put tar over the nails.
Should that work for a few years if I refresh the tar every summer?


There is a definite correlation between amount of time spent on a roof
by amateurs and decreased life expectancy. You're asking people to
guess on your skill, roof and climactic conditions and predict an
outcome it's still a guess. Should it work? For a while, maybe.
Will it work? Not for any appreciable amount of time.

I guess I could go over the whole roof and glue every shingle, but
geez that sounds like a lot of work.


It is. Doing things right the first time is a helluva lot easier.
And easy repairs often equate to shoddy repairs.

A lot of them *are* glued,
because when I was watching the storm a big section of them, about the
size of a car door, was flapping as a unit. That's what made me think
that nailing furring strips over them might help. I think the problem
is that it rarely gets up to 70 degrees in the summer here, so the
glue doesn't melt well. And I could probably get away with just
putting the strips on the windward edges, because that's where all the
damage was.


You're roof is doomed and was from the day it was put on. If you have
sections of shingles flapping in the wind and there's not a hurricane
directly on you, the problem is with the installation. My guess is
that either you reroofed and the roofer used too short nails or
skipped nails because they're negligent/incompetent.

Furring strips will cause far more problems. There are better
solutions for borderline emergency repairs. As someone else posted,
just nail right through the shingles and forget about the furring
strips, then use a elastomeric roof coating over the whole shebang.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...c+roof+coating

One of the comedians here accidentally made a helpful comment about
leaking from under the furring strips.


I'll be appearing here all week. Tell your friends.

If I put some gobs of tar on
the shingles, then put the board on top of the tar, and then nailed
throught the board, tar, and shingles (before the tar dries), would
that make it waterproof? Would using silicone sealant instead of tar
make any difference?

Thanks for any help, and sorry to bother the other guys.


You're not a bother. But asking why a roof would leak after you Rube
Goldberg it up and punch holes all over it is rather funny. From
where I'm sitting, you're the comedian.

If the roofing company did screw up your roof you could and should go
after them for a replacement - even at this late date. You need to
determine exactly how the roof was installed, nailing pattern, size of
nails, underlayment, etc., document it and work up how the roof
company was negligent. Then send them the package of materials with
photographs and explain how their errors and omissions damaged you and
that you expect them to remedy the situation. If they're dragging
their heels, have a lawyer draft up a strongly worded letter and send
it to them. The objective is to pressure them into replacing the roof
without getting the lawyers too heavily involved. If lawyers do get
involved, well then you'll be hiring a roofing company from outside
your area to replace the roof. It will cost much more than the
original roofing company cost and the original company would be
looking at possibly laying out approximately three or four times the
amount of cash than it would take them to put on a new roof for their
cost. It's all about risk.

Please be aware that your amateur repairs are damaging the roof and
will hamper any efforts to have the roof corrected at little or not
cost.

R

BTW, I really am hilarious - and not just looking.
  #14   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 2:33 pm, RicodJour wrote:

OK, thanks. Please bear with me for some more dumb questions. I'm
not trying to argue about anything, I'm just trying to understand. I
guess I need to get a book on roofing from the library.


In such a high wind area you should have used shingles with a higher
wind rating and used an increased nailing pattern (six nails instead
of four per 3' shingle). Basically all information necessary is right
on the shingle package wrapper.



As far as I can tell, there were no nails used to put the shingles on
originally, just staples. The neighbors, who are apparently rich
because they only live here in the summer, had the same local outfit
roof their new house, and they lost a bunch of shingles in the first
storm, too. Since they're rich, they had an outside company come in
and put a new roof on their two-month old house, and from what I could
see they just used staples too (driven by compressed air), but they
haven't had any problems. Are staples and nails interchangeable?


The kiss of death for any roof. The nails _must_ penetrate the roof
sheathing.



My nails go into the sheathing, but not all the way through. They
seem to be holding. Why is it important that they penetrate
completely?


You're not a bother. But asking why a roof would leak after you Rube
Goldberg it up and punch holes all over it is rather funny. From
where I'm sitting, you're the comedian.



No, I'm just stupid. So let me see if I understand what you're
saying --- The shingles should be nailed, but only where they are
covered by the shingle above them, and the lower flaps should be glued
down?


If the roofing company did screw up your roof you could and should go
after them for a replacement - even at this late date. You need to
determine exactly how the roof was installed, nailing pattern, size of
nails, underlayment, etc., document it and work up how the roof
company was negligent. Then send them the package of materials with
photographs and explain how their errors and omissions damaged you and
that you expect them to remedy the situation. If they're dragging
their heels, have a lawyer draft up a strongly worded letter and send
it to them. The objective is to pressure them into replacing the roof
without getting the lawyers too heavily involved. If lawyers do get
involved, well then you'll be hiring a roofing company from outside
your area to replace the roof. It will cost much more than the
original roofing company cost and the original company would be
looking at possibly laying out approximately three or four times the
amount of cash than it would take them to put on a new roof for their
cost. It's all about risk.



The local politics here make your sensible legal suggestions
impractical for me.


  #15   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 1:46 pm, Norminn wrote:
I'm not sure what "architectural" shingles are, but I think we have them
) Elk Prestige Plus, I believe. We have an unusual roof on our
condo, with steep mansards on each building. In addition to a poor
installation (improper nailing), they were a poor choice for steep roofs
(formerly concrete tile). After a couple of major reworks, and still
losing shingles, the roofer started applying roof cement under each
tab. Our city also changed the regulations for shingles on steep roofs,
requiring cement under each tab of the shingle. Then came the
hurricanes, in 2005?, and we had a "stuck fast" roof! Max. winds here
were 70 mph, and we lost a skylight but not one shingle. Many of the
buildings in the neighborhood lost many shingles and even concrete
tiles, but ours stayed on. Don't recall whether these shingles are
rated for Dade, but the extra adhesive seems to have made a great
difference.



I guess that sounds like the way to go. Maybe if I do an hour a night
or so I can get it done next summer.


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,500
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 7:14 pm, wrote:
On Dec 4, 1:46 pm, Norminn wrote:

I'm not sure what "architectural" shingles are, but I think we have them
) Elk Prestige Plus, I believe. We have an unusual roof on our
condo, with steep mansards on each building. In addition to a poor
installation (improper nailing), they were a poor choice for steep roofs
(formerly concrete tile). After a couple of major reworks, and still
losing shingles, the roofer started applying roof cement under each
tab. Our city also changed the regulations for shingles on steep roofs,
requiring cement under each tab of the shingle. Then came the
hurricanes, in 2005?, and we had a "stuck fast" roof! Max. winds here
were 70 mph, and we lost a skylight but not one shingle. Many of the
buildings in the neighborhood lost many shingles and even concrete
tiles, but ours stayed on. Don't recall whether these shingles are
rated for Dade, but the extra adhesive seems to have made a great
difference.


I guess that sounds like the way to go. Maybe if I do an hour a night
or so I can get it done next summer.


Take a look at the tips from FEMA about roofs:

http://www.fema.gov/plan/prevent/howto/how2031.shtm

Note the section where it says if you live in a hurricane prone area
to use 6 nails and not staples. Personally, I'd insist on that on my
own roof anywhere, as it's far more secure. I saw the same thing
happen to shingles at brand new condos 20 years ago during a
northeaster. The complex where I was living had nailed shingles
with sustained minimal damage. The new place across the street,
where they were nailed, had very substantial damage, with whole big
sections blown off as you describe.

I also agree with the post that you may have a legal case against the
company that installed them, provided the statute of limitations
hasn't run out. The obvious negative for you is the amount of time
that has expired. However, the fact that you had them back
immediately over the 2 years following the work shows that something
has been wrong all along. They are the roofing experts, are local,
and should know that for a house at the top of a wind blown hill,
staples should not be used.

To prevail, you;d need statements from some experts. A certified
home inspector would be one good one as he's independent with no axe
to grind. A couple of reports from other roofers that said the work
was done wrong together with estimates to correct would be good too.
Take pictures of everything. You could sue them in small claims
where you don't need a lawyer and the limit is usually $2K to $10K
depending on state. You probably have a 50-50 shot at winning, but
being able to sue at minimal cost could make it worth while.

Good luck
  #17   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Pat Pat is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 657
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 4:09 pm, wrote:
On Dec 3, 8:13 pm, RicodJour wrote:





On Dec 3, 10:27 pm, wrote:


On Dec 3, 4:26 pm, RicodJour wrote:


On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down withfurringstrips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.


Buy some roof cement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
of roof cement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.


Why would it leak? Maybe I didn't make it clear that the strips are
going over the shingles just to hold them down; I'm not expecting the
strips to provide any rain protection. I won't need many nails per
strip, and I'll put tar over the nails.


I've changed my mind. You've convinced me that you're right. Zero
chance it'll leak. Nail away!


BTW, we'll be electing a new alt.home.repair moderator and I feel you
should nominate yourself. You've got mad construction skillz.


R


I wasn't trying to argue with anyone, I was just asking for
information. Sorry to have bothered you.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Rico is right (except about the colendar as a hat thing -- I think it
would look okay). The purpose of roofs being made the way there are
is that it is almost impossible to plug a hole and keep it plugged.
If it worked, then roofers would just nail through the shingles. No
amount of tar is going to seal the holes -- not all of them all of the
time.

You might want to look at alternative roofing systems like metal roofs
or the imitation slate (that is quite heavy). You could also rip off
the roof and go with a rolled roofing (like that is used on semi-flat
roofs that goes down with virtually no nails but lots and lots of tar
-- and you basically glue it to your roof.
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,575
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

wrote:

On Dec 4, 1:46 pm, Norminn wrote:


I'm not sure what "architectural" shingles are, but I think we have them
) Elk Prestige Plus, I believe. We have an unusual roof on our
condo, with steep mansards on each building. In addition to a poor
installation (improper nailing), they were a poor choice for steep roofs
(formerly concrete tile). After a couple of major reworks, and still
losing shingles, the roofer started applying roof cement under each
tab. Our city also changed the regulations for shingles on steep roofs,
requiring cement under each tab of the shingle. Then came the
hurricanes, in 2005?, and we had a "stuck fast" roof! Max. winds here
were 70 mph, and we lost a skylight but not one shingle. Many of the
buildings in the neighborhood lost many shingles and even concrete
tiles, but ours stayed on. Don't recall whether these shingles are
rated for Dade, but the extra adhesive seems to have made a great
difference.




I guess that sounds like the way to go. Maybe if I do an hour a night
or so I can get it done next summer.


Don't know about summer ........ cold weather is not a good time to
work, especially for a new roof. For a new roof installation, hot sun
helps melt the adhesive built into the shingles so that they lay flat
and adhere to each other. If you go about putting adhesive under the
tabs, warmth will help make them flex and not crack, but don't kill
yourself )

There are some roofing material websites which give good instructions
about installing shingles. Just the instructions on the package of
shingles are pretty much of a "basic education" in roofing. Our Elk
shingles are laminated - two layers of stuff stuck together - with the
bottom layer only half the size of the shingle. The nailing line,
marked on the shingle, is critical as is measuring the overlap, laying a
chalk line to get them straight, etc. It isn't rocket science, but sure
can give you grief if not done right. I'm not familiar with other
brands of roofing, and there is a lot of variety in quality, style and
suitability for a particular roof and climate. I looked at Elk's
website, just for a random example. I don't know this particular
shingle, but the instruction sheet will give you a very good idea of
what is involved and why:
http://www.elkcorp.com/application_i...ownSpecSht.pdf

I would talk to neighbors with similar style roofs that look good and
get good references for contractors. Attic ventillation is an important
factor, as well. Something to learn about in regard to keeping your
roof in good shape.

Good luck.
  #20   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,823
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?


wrote in message
As far as I can tell, there were no nails used to put the shingles on
originally, just staples. The neighbors, who are apparently rich
because they only live here in the summer, had the same local outfit
roof their new house, and they lost a bunch of shingles in the first
storm, too. Since they're rich, they had an outside company come in
and put a new roof on their two-month old house, and from what I could
see they just used staples too (driven by compressed air), but they
haven't had any problems. Are staples and nails interchangeable?


Staples don't hold as well as nails int he wind. Some local codes specify
no staples, nails only. Staples are cheaper/faster, but do not hold as
well.





My nails go into the sheathing, but not all the way through. They
seem to be holding. Why is it important that they penetrate
completely?


Maximum holding. They don't have to go far past though.



No, I'm just stupid. So let me see if I understand what you're
saying --- The shingles should be nailed, but only where they are
covered by the shingle above them, and the lower flaps should be glued
down?


Yes, the shingles have an adhesive that is heat activated in the sun.





  #21   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:
I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.

My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.

I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.

So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


Actually your proposed solution is not an unworkable idea...it is an
affront to us roofers everywhere...but if you cannot really see it,
and you know that you are trading all future roof life for a short (2
years max) answer, it will work.

You will be stripping off everything when this answer wears out, but
if you have dimensional shingles, you would have been doing that
anyway...do you know if you have access to MALARKY SHINGLES? I would
advise you to check into thier shingle line, or any other SBS shingle
( as oppossed to a fiberglass based shingle)....The SBS shingle cann
handle the extreme weather conditions you folks have out there....high
winds, strong winters, violent hail storms. They look great and LAST!
Good Luck!
  #22   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Pat Pat is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?


Thank you for your helpful reply, which I didn't realize would be so
hard to come by in this group. Everything you said makes sense, but
the roof is only five years old. The people who put it on are pretty
much the only roofers in this very small town, so I have no reason to
expect they will do it any better than the first time. To be fair to
them, my house is on top of a hill, and apparently sits right square
at the apex of a funnel formed by the terrain, so I get the strongest
winds around here, which is saying something. I had an anemeometer
rated for 80mph that broke.


You may have several issues here.
First your roofing may not be rated for the winds in your location.
Second your roof may be incorrectly installed.
Third your shingles have been damaged flapping in the wind.

The fix is to remove and replace using the correct material for your
conditions and following the manufacturer instructions.

I can't see your roof. I don't know how much risk of water damage you are
willing to accept. You can make temporary repairs. How long those repairs
will last is unknown. Water can get under your shingles and damage your
plywood sheathing and wood supports without ever appearing inside your home.
Waiting to replace your roof greatly increases the chance of increased
damage and increased costs. You may already have damage from previous
repairs.

Putting a new roof on probably would not be much more work then making
temporary repairs.

Check out this page
http://www.owenscorning.com/around/r...gles/index.asp
See how each product has a different wind resistance. Some are rated for as
high as 130 mph.
Read the installation instructions here
http://www.owenscorning.com/around/r...structions.asp
See how the installation varies with wind and roof steepness.




  #23   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 7:58 pm, "Pat" wrote:

You may have several issues here.
First your roofing may not be rated for the winds in your location.
Second your roof may be incorrectly installed.
Third your shingles have been damaged flapping in the wind.

The fix is to remove and replace using the correct material for your
conditions and following the manufacturer instructions.

I can't see your roof. I don't know how much risk of water damage you are
willing to accept. You can make temporary repairs. How long those repairs
will last is unknown. Water can get under your shingles and damage your
plywood sheathing and wood supports without ever appearing inside your home.
Waiting to replace your roof greatly increases the chance of increased
damage and increased costs. You may already have damage from previous
repairs.

Putting a new roof on probably would not be much more work then making
temporary repairs.

Check out this pagehttp://www.owenscorning.com/around/roofing/shingles/index.asp
See how each product has a different wind resistance. Some are rated for as
high as 130 mph.
Read the installation instructions herehttp://www.owenscorning.com/around/roofing/installationinstructions.asp
See how the installation varies with wind and roof steepness.



Thanks for the link. I used their finder, and they don't have a
contractor within 50 miles of me, which is what I expected. On the
other hand, I didn't know they offered lifetime warranties. If I knew
I only had to do it one time, I guess I would go ahead and get a pro
from Dover to put on the super duper shingles when I get my pension
payment. So that means my repairs only have to last a couple of
years :-).
  #24   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 4:53 pm, wrote:

Take a look at the tips from FEMA about roofs:

http://www.fema.gov/plan/prevent/howto/how2031.shtm


Thanks, but can what they said about the price be right?

"A roofing contractor will charge you about $100 to $150 per square
foot of roof area to remove and replace shingles and underlayment."

My roof is at least 60x30, not even counting the garage. That's
1800 sq ft, so they are saying it would cost around $200K for a new
roof??? Are they figuring in the cost of driving ice all over the
country or something?


  #25   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 7:41 pm, Roof Time Cincinnati wrote:
On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:



I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
my roof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


My roof has "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of the roof that faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a new roof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


Actually your proposed solution is not an unworkable idea...it is an
affront to us roofers everywhere...but if you cannot really see it,
and you know that you are trading all future roof life for a short (2
years max) answer, it will work.

You will be stripping off everything when this answer wears out, but
if you have dimensional shingles, you would have been doing that
anyway...do you know if you have access to MALARKY SHINGLES? I would
advise you to check into thier shingle line, or any other SBS shingle
( as oppossed to a fiberglass based shingle)....The SBS shingle cann
handle the extreme weather conditions you folks have out there....high
winds, strong winters, violent hail storms. They look great and LAST!
Good Luck!


Thanks, I'll look into it. Malarky is out of Portland, so I assume
they would be available here.


  #26   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,575
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

wrote:

On Dec 4, 4:53 pm, wrote:


Take a look at the tips from FEMA about roofs:

http://www.fema.gov/plan/prevent/howto/how2031.shtm



Thanks, but can what they said about the price be right?

"A roofing contractor will charge you about $100 to $150 per square
foot of roof area to remove and replace shingles and underlayment."

My roof is at least 60x30, not even counting the garage. That's
1800 sq ft, so they are saying it would cost around $200K for a new
roof??? Are they figuring in the cost of driving ice all over the
country or something?




That might be a typo.......should mean "square", perhaps. A "square",
in roofing terms, is 100 sq. feet.
  #27   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 5, 2:59 am, wrote:
On Dec 4, 4:53 pm, wrote:



Take a look at the tips from FEMA about roofs:


http://www.fema.gov/plan/prevent/howto/how2031.shtm


Thanks, but can what they said about the price be right?

"A roofing contractor will charge you about $100 to $150 per square
foot of roof area to remove and replace shingles and underlayment."

My roof is at least 60x30, not even counting the garage. That's
1800 sq ft, so they are saying it would cost around $200K for a new
roof??? Are they figuring in the cost of driving ice all over the
country or something?


LOL...I see why you would freak..but NO, that is not quite right.....a
'square" denotes a 10' x 10' area...so a 60x30 is 1800 sq FEET but
only 18 squares! But you must also take into account the RISE or pitch
of the roof.....

Flat Roofs
If your roof is flat or has no more than a 3 in12 pitch, (rises 3"
every 12") you can calculate its total square footage by simply
multiplying the length by the width. So you would have 1800 squres off
your measurement.

Steeper Roofs
Measure your house at ground level, then add in the roof's overhang
for greater accuracy. Example, if the roof overhang is 12 inches,
you'll add 2 feet to the overall length and 2 feet to the overall
width of the house. This nominal square footage amount is then
multiplied by a factor associated with the roof's pitch. Multiply by:
4 in 12 1.06
5 in 12 1.08
6 in 12 1.12
7 in 12 1.16
8 in 12 1.20
9 in 12 1.25
10 in 12 1.30
11 in 12 1.36
12 in 12 1.42

So your home will be no less than 18 squares but no more than 21
sqares. Then you need to account for chimney flashings, metal work,
ice guard, venting upgrades, dump fees, and shingle upgrades...the 150
- 200 square price, generally does not factor in these associated
roofing costs.

If you want to email me over a picture of your house, I could give you
some better ideas of squares needed, and associated upgrade
costs...... not specific to your area..but it might give you a rough
idea.....Good Luck!


  #28   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 3, 11:13 pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Dec 3, 10:27 pm, wrote:





On Dec 3, 4:26 pm, RicodJour wrote:


On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
myroof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


Myroofhas "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of theroofthat faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a newroof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


It would be similar to using a collander as a hat in a rain storm.
It'll leak like a sieve, and it'll look like crap.


Buy someroofcement in caulking tubes, gently pry up and separate the
shingles (sounds like they're not sealed together), and squirt a dab
ofroofcement under the shingles every 4" to 6". That'll bond one
layer to the next and will take care of the blow off problem. Only
problem is that it is work that is best done in warmer weather.


Why would it leak? Maybe I didn't make it clear that the strips are
going over the shingles just to hold them down; I'm not expecting the
strips to provide any rain protection. I won't need many nails per
strip, and I'll put tar over the nails.


I've changed my mind. You've convinced me that you're right. Zero
chance it'll leak. Nail away!

BTW, we'll be electing a new alt.home.repair moderator and I feel you
should nominate yourself. You've got mad construction skillz.

R- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Man..were you having a bad day or WHAT??? The man is asking for
help.....you have to slam him, casue he has an opinion? WOW....I guess
EVERY home improvement you ever attempted on your own, was perfection
huh?! LOL sheesshhhhh......I give the homeowner credit for devising a
plan and acting on it, and not just ignoring it, hoping it will go
away.....
You should remember this: You can know the right way to do many
things, but if this is how you handle others...who cares??? people
will just bypass your information (and you)..after all your FREE
advise..is worth JUST THAT....LOL...laughing AT you..not WITH
you....on this one R
  #29   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 4, 10:41 pm, Roof Time Cincinnati wrote:
On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:





I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
myroof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


Myroofhas "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of theroofthat faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a newroof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


Actually your proposed solution is not an unworkable idea...it is an
affront to us roofers everywhere...but if you cannot really see it,
and you know that you are trading all futurerooflife for a short (2
years max) answer, it will work.

You will be stripping off everything when this answer wears out, but
if you have dimensional shingles, you would have been doing that
anyway...do you know if you have access to MALARKY SHINGLES? I would
advise you to check into thier shingle line, or any other SBS shingle
( as oppossed to a fiberglass based shingle)....The SBS shingle cann
handle the extreme weather conditions you folks have out there....high
winds, strong winters, violent hail storms. They look great and LAST!
Good Luck!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I have SBS roofing shingles on my house...man they are TOUGH..they
look good...have a class 4 hail rating...and can withstand 120 wind
resistance....but here is their downfall.....they do not have a 10%
copper blend..so I am getting dark black streaks..all over my new roof!
  #30   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 5, 7:48 am, wrote:
On Dec 4, 10:41 pm, Roof Time Cincinnati wrote:

On Dec 3, 6:19 pm, wrote:


I live on the Oregon coast, and I am watching the shingles blow off of
myroof. This doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough that
I want to find a better way than just nailing them back on one at a
time.


Myroofhas "architectural" shingles, which to me just means they
don't lie flat, and they make it a lot easier for the wind to get
under them. It occurs to me that I could greatly reduce the chance of
their blowing off if I nailed them down with furring strips every
couple feet or so, i.e. 8' long, very light 1x2s running vertically
from the peak to the gutter. I know it wouldn't look great, but the
biggest problem is with the part of theroofthat faces the back yard,
so they wouldn't be visible from the street. And if I painted them
dark brown, they might not be visible at all unless someone was
looking for them.


I realize that it would hurt the resale, but a) I have no plans to
move, and b) it wouldn't take much extra work to pull them up when I
get a newroof, which I would have to do if I sold the house anyway.


So, comments? Other than the looks, is there any structural or
practical reason why they wouldn't work?


Actually your proposed solution is not an unworkable idea...it is an
affront to us roofers everywhere...but if you cannot really see it,
and you know that you are trading all futurerooflife for a short (2
years max) answer, it will work.


You will be stripping off everything when this answer wears out, but
if you have dimensional shingles, you would have been doing that
anyway...do you know if you have access to MALARKY SHINGLES? I would
advise you to check into thier shingle line, or any other SBS shingle
( as oppossed to a fiberglass based shingle)....The SBS shingle cann
handle the extreme weather conditions you folks have out there....high
winds, strong winters, violent hail storms. They look great and LAST!
Good Luck!- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I have SBS roofing shingles on my house...man they are TOUGH..they
look good...have a class 4 hail rating...and can withstand 120 wind
resistance....but here is their downfall.....they do not have a 10%
copper blend..so I am getting dark black streaks..all over my new roof!


Yea...the streaks are called Gleo Capsa Magma...they can be cleaned
and removed you know......I will post a tip sheet later to this group,
concerning this algae


  #31   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Furring strips ON TOP of my roof shingles?

On Dec 5, 2:59 am, wrote:
On Dec 4, 4:53 pm, wrote:



Take a look at the tips from FEMA about roofs:


http://www.fema.gov/plan/prevent/howto/how2031.shtm


Thanks, but can what they said about the price be right?

"A roofing contractor will charge you about $100 to $150 per square
foot of roof area to remove and replace shingles and underlayment."

My roof is at least 60x30, not even counting the garage. That's
1800 sq ft, so they are saying it would cost around $200K for a new
roof??? Are they figuring in the cost of driving ice all over the
country or something?


LOL...I see why you would freak..but NO, that is not quite
right.....a
'square" denotes a 10' x 10' area...so a 60x30 is 1800 sq FEET but
only 18 squares! But you must also take into account the RISE or
pitch
of the roof.....

Flat Roofs
If your roof is flat or has no more than a 3 in12 pitch, (rises 3"
every 12") you can calculate its total square footage by simply
multiplying the length by the width. So you would have 1800 squres
off
your measurement.


Steeper Roofs
Measure your house at ground level, then add in the roof's overhang
for greater accuracy. Example, if the roof overhang is 12 inches,
you'll add 2 feet to the overall length and 2 feet to the overall
width of the house. This nominal square footage amount is then
multiplied by a factor associated with the roof's pitch. Multiply by:
4 in 12 1.06
5 in 12 1.08
6 in 12 1.12
7 in 12 1.16
8 in 12 1.20
9 in 12 1.25
10 in 12 1.30
11 in 12 1.36
12 in 12 1.42


So your home will be no less than 18 squares but no more than 21
sqares. Then you need to account for chimney flashings, metal work,
ice guard, venting upgrades, dump fees, and shingle upgrades...the
150
- 200 square price, generally does not factor in these associated
roofing costs.


If you want to email me over a picture of your house, I could give
you
some better ideas of squares needed, and associated upgrade
costs...... not specific to your area..but it might give you a rough
idea.....Good Luck!
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New roof shingles: Remove thin plastic strips on back of shingles before nailing down? Joe Home Repair 34 March 10th 17 02:06 AM
Per Square Foot Cost of Using Furring STrips as Rainscreen [email protected] Home Repair 0 January 26th 06 05:25 AM
Per Square Foot Cost of Using Furring STrips as Rainscreen [email protected] Home Ownership 0 January 26th 06 05:25 AM
Furring strips PhotoMan Home Repair 4 February 13th 05 06:15 AM
New roof shingles: Remove thin plastic strips on back of shingles before nailing down? Joe Home Ownership 10 November 30th 04 05:04 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:57 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2023 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"