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#1
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220 volt to 110 volt
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? |
#2
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 19, 10:58 pm, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? I am not an electrician, but.... I believe that is how they do it on 220V electric ranges. |
#3
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220 volt to 110 volt
Yes, it's that simple. No, it's not legal or proper.
s "Tool" wrote in message ... I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? |
#4
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 8:38 am, "Steve Barker" wrote:
Yes, it's that simple. No, it's not legal or proper. s "Tool" wrote in message ... I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - They make 220 v lightbulbs you know. Living temporarily in Europe where it's all 220V, 50 Hz, we use our same lamps and just buy the 220V bulbs. Works fine. Sure you can buy transformers but for lights there's no point. |
#5
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , Tater wrote:
On Nov 19, 10:58 pm, Tool wrote: I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? I am not an electrician, but.... Then perhaps you should consider not answering electrical questions... I believe that is how they do it on 220V electric ranges. ... especially when you don't know the answers. To the OP: ignore Tater. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#6
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , "Steve Barker" wrote:
Yes, it's that simple. No, it's not. Go sit in the corner with Tater.] "Tool" wrote in message ... I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#7
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Just for future reference, it's 240 and 120 -- hasn't been 220 and 110 for a long, long time. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists of one hot, one neutral, and one ground. In other words, to get a 120V circuit, you need a neutral, and you probably don't have one. It's possible, although unlikely, that your pool pump circuit contains an extra conductor -- check the cable going to the pump, and count the wires in it. If there are four of them (black, red, white, and bare), then you can do this easily and safely: black and red to the pump, black and white (or red and white, doesn't matter) to the 120V outlet, and bare to everywhere that needs a ground. Verify at the breaker box that black and red go to a double-pole breaker and white to the neutral bus bar. If you only have three wires in the cable going to the pool pump (black, white, and bare), then you don't have a neutral, and you need pull a new cable that does have one. Rather than remove the existing 3-wire 240V circuit and replace it with a 4-wire 240V/120V circuit, it's much less trouble to simply install a new 120V circuit. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#8
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220 volt to 110 volt
There is a major difference between making something work, and making it
work safely. Equipment grounding conductors are NEVER used to conduct anything but fault currents. You'd create an electrical hazard by using a ground instead of a neutral for your 120 volt circuit "Tool" wrote in message ... I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? |
#9
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? No: You cannot safely use the ground as one side of an electrical circuit! Especially in the vicinity of a pool electrical safety is extremely important. Also non standard wiring might invalidate any liability insurance, if discovered, even if an an accident did not occur. The use of ground as one side of a circuit, even an electrical cooking stove, is not standard or approved in any jurisdictions that anyone with an electrical background is aware. The ground wire is there to safely connect items to ground and prevent electrical shock and/death 'in the event of a fault condition'. Under normal no-fault conditions the ground wire does not carry any electrical current. Suggest you get someone competent and probably licensed, to reduce you r liability for something dangerous. Also suggest that the circuit you are proposing be equipped through a GFI, either an outlet or GFI type circuit breaker. This may be mandated by regulation anyway in your jurisdiction. Respectfully suggest that anyone asking that question in that manner does not have the knowledge to safely do such work. Yes; it might work, the lights may come on an everything 'appear' to be OK until something happens! With any electricty in or near a pool make sure someone present knows CPR. Also depending on regulations in your jurisdiction it likely may not be legal to connect pumps and lights to the same fuse/circuit breaker. many of these items may seem onerous but they make sense and in some ways are to protect us from ourselves. |
#10
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? Suggestion: If all you need is a convenience light 'near' the pool it may be possible to use a transformer. The transformer would convert/ step down the 220 to 110 volts to feed a conventional lamp. A transformer for say 100 watts would not be too expensive or large. The metal frame of such a transformer and the box it is mounted in should be grounded for safety. The output of the transformer could have switch to control the light. But again everything should be wired/ mounted in standard way to conform with approved electrical safety and insurance practices. |
#11
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 3:11 pm, terry wrote:
On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote: I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? Suggestion: If all you need is a convenience light 'near' the pool it may be possible to use a transformer. The transformer would convert/ step down the 220 to 110 volts to feed a conventional lamp. A transformer for say 100 watts would not be too expensive or large. The metal frame of such a transformer and the box it is mounted in should be grounded for safety. The output of the transformer could have switch to control the light. But again everything should be wired/ mounted in standard way to conform with approved electrical safety and insurance practices. Far cheaper to buy 220V lightbulbs. While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common, a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire, implying he has both available. |
#12
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , TimR wrote:
While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common, a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire, implying he has both available. Or he may simply be unaware that 240V circuits don't have a neutral, leading him to think he has one when he really doesn't. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#13
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 11:37 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , TimR wrote: While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common, a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire, implying he has both available. Or he may simply be unaware that 240V circuits don't have a neutral, leading him to think he has one when he really doesn't. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. Being a 240V line to a pool pump, this raises another issue. Where is the GFCI? If it's in the panel, then he needs one that will accomodate both 240V and drawing 120V on the same circuit. Some GFCI are strictly 240V and if you unbalance it by drawing 120V from one leg to neutral, it will trip. |
#14
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 1:52 pm, wrote:
On Nov 20, 11:37 am, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , TimR wrote: While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common, a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire, implying he has both available. Or he may simply be unaware that 240V circuits don't have a neutral, leading him to think he has one when he really doesn't. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. Being a 240V line to a pool pump, this raises another issue. Where is the GFCI? If it's in the panel, then he needs one that will accommodate both 240V and drawing 120V on the same circuit. Some GFCI are strictly 240V and if you unbalance it by drawing 120V from one leg to neutral, it will trip.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Exactly! Just too many open questions. The OP has not posted sufficiently concise information to make a complete conclusion. In other words the OP may not be knowledgeable enough to ask; let alone complete the work safely and in accordance with code. That's often a problem with these "If I did this ..... " questions. We, trying to help, are all asking more questions, perhaps jumping to or postulating reasonable conclusions and/or saying "If this, or If that .... ." Still think for safety and insurance purposes the OP needs to consult a 'knowledgeable' electrician; not just some Joe around the corner who 'says they know what they are doing' (and by the way I am not a licensed electrician so this is not a comment protecting an association or anything!). Electricity around pools should not be taken lightly! There are several ways to arrange things that would 'work'; but whether safe or satisfactory to insurance or electrical codes ....... ????? |
#15
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Tue, 20 Nov 2007 08:20:28 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt: The question is the neutral. Does the wiring out to the pool pump provide a neutral? If not, you really should not do this. If there is a neutral, you can take a 110 volt socket off the circuit for low wattage appliances. It is not acceptable to use the ground as a neutral. Finally, a correct and useful answer. |
#16
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220 volt to 110 volt
TimR wrote:
On Nov 20, 3:11 pm, terry wrote: On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote: I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? Suggestion: If all you need is a convenience light 'near' the pool it may be possible to use a transformer. The transformer would convert/ step down the 220 to 110 volts to feed a conventional lamp. A transformer for say 100 watts would not be too expensive or large. The metal frame of such a transformer and the box it is mounted in should be grounded for safety. The output of the transformer could have switch to control the light. But again everything should be wired/ mounted in standard way to conform with approved electrical safety and insurance practices. Far cheaper to buy 220V lightbulbs. Or just put two 120 volt bulbs of the same wattage in series across the 240 volt line. G It's likely not to code, but thinking about it, each side of the 240 volt circuit is only 120 volts above ground, and for a zillion years table lamps didn't have polarized cord plugs, so there was a 50-50 chance that the threaded portion of the light bulb sockets in them were 120 volts off ground. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common, a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire, implying he has both available. |
#17
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 2:38 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:58:31 -0800 (PST), Tool wrote: I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor 240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v? Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less. Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there (15a). This will need to be GFCI protected. Why should he be converting the pump motor to 120V, when by all indication he has a 240V circuit with neutral and ground and he just wants to add a 120V load? |
#18
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220 volt to 110 volt
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Tool wrote: I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Just for future reference, it's 240 and 120 -- hasn't been 220 and 110 for a long, long time. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists of one hot, one neutral, and one ground. In other words, to get a 120V circuit, you need a neutral, and you probably don't have one. It's possible, although unlikely, that your pool pump circuit contains an extra conductor -- check the cable going to the pump, and count the wires in it. If there are four of them (black, red, white, and bare), then you can do this easily and safely: black and red to the pump, black and white (or red and white, doesn't matter) to the 120V outlet, and bare to everywhere that needs a ground. Verify at the breaker box that black and red go to a double-pole breaker and white to the neutral bus bar. If you only have three wires in the cable going to the pool pump (black, white, and bare), then you don't have a neutral, and you need pull a new cable that does have one. Rather than remove the existing 3-wire 240V circuit and replace it with a 4-wire 240V/120V circuit, it's much less trouble to simply install a new 120V circuit. .... and simpler still to use a 240V light. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#19
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220 volt to 110 volt
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#20
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , Jeff Wisnia wrote:
[dumb joke snipped] It's likely not to code, No, it's not -- and when the OP is clearly not an expert in electrical matters, this sort of joke isn't a good idea at all. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#21
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220 volt to 110 volt
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#22
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , Tool wrote: [snip] Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists of one hot, one neutral, and one ground. [snip] .... and simpler still to use a 240V light. What about the "standard 110 volt outlet" mentioned by the OP? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#23
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , CJT wrote:
wrote: Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor 240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v? Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less. Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there (15a). This will need to be GFCI protected. I can't imagine why he would want to switch it from 240 to 120. So that he won't have to pull a new cable, of course. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#24
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220 volt to 110 volt
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , CJT wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , Tool wrote: [snip] Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists of one hot, one neutral, and one ground. [snip] .... and simpler still to use a 240V light. What about the "standard 110 volt outlet" mentioned by the OP? Well, I took it he was open to suggestions. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#25
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220 volt to 110 volt
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , CJT wrote: wrote: Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor 240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v? Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less. Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there (15a). This will need to be GFCI protected. I can't imagine why he would want to switch it from 240 to 120. So that he won't have to pull a new cable, of course. There is that, but he'd probably have to pull one anyway to handle twice the current. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#26
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: What about the "standard 110 volt outlet" mentioned by the OP? Well, I took it he was open to suggestions. He may be. But I would prefer that the OP clearly understands that he cannot safely install a 120V *outlet* without having a neutral conductor present, which he probably does not have. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#27
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , CJT wrote: wrote: Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor 240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v? Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less. Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there (15a). This will need to be GFCI protected. I can't imagine why he would want to switch it from 240 to 120. So that he won't have to pull a new cable, of course. There is that, but he'd probably have to pull one anyway to handle twice the current. Depends entirely on the size of the motor (as noted in gfretwell's post above). If it's 1HP or less, he almost certainly does *not* need to pull heavier cable. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#28
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article
, terry wrote: Respectfully suggest that anyone asking that question in that manner does not have the knowledge to safely do such work. This is a DIY group, Terry, and the OP appears to be intelligent. I don't care whether he knows a ground from a neutral when he walks in here; if he's capable of understanding the answers he gets then he's capable of doing the job himself, safely and correctly. I've seen a lot of idiots wander in here, for whom your response might be appropriate, but I wouldn't put this fellow in that category at all. |
#29
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220 volt to 110 volt
Doug Miller wrote:
I see *nothing* in the original post that indicates the presence of a neutral. Perhaps you should reread it: "Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet?" One hot wire...common wire...ground wire. What do you suppose he means by "common wire" other than neutral? He's certainly NOT referring to the ground wire since he says "common wire AND ground wire"...clearly two different wires. And of course he doesn't mean the other hot since he expressly stated "connecting only one hot wire" let alone that it would not make any electrical sense. We won't know unless and until he clarifies but presence of a neutral is VERY STRONGLY suggested in the OP. There is really nothing else "common wire" can mean. There is no need for this blather about using ground as neutral. He never said anything of the sort. |
#30
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:58:31 -0800 (PST), Tool
wrote: I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? As everyone else told you, NEVER use the ground wire as the neutral. If you actually meant the neutral, meaning you have a WHITE neutral, and a black and red hot (or two or either color), Then you can do something. You'd need to run the 220 to a separate breaker box, install a dual breaker for the pool, and a single 15 or 20A for the 110. (at the pool location) Of course you also need an actual ground, and there are likely restrictions for a breaker box by a pool (and it must be an outdoor type box if it's not in an enclosure). If the 220 wires to the pool pimp are in a conduit, you can likely shove a white wire thru. If not, start digging !!!! |
#31
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:22:33 -0000, Steve Kraus
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt: Doug Miller wrote: I see *nothing* in the original post that indicates the presence of a neutral. Perhaps you should reread it: "Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet?" One hot wire...common wire...ground wire. What do you suppose he means by "common wire" other than neutral? He's certainly NOT referring to the ground wire since he says "common wire AND ground wire"...clearly two different wires. And of course he doesn't mean the other hot since he expressly stated "connecting only one hot wire" let alone that it would not make any electrical sense. We won't know unless and until he clarifies but presence of a neutral is VERY STRONGLY suggested in the OP. There is really nothing else "common wire" can mean. There is no need for this blather about using ground as neutral. He never said anything of the sort. Nice post Steve. It's amazing how some people can't read a simple paragraph with any degree of inference. |
#32
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , Steve Kraus wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: I see *nothing* in the original post that indicates the presence of a neutral. Perhaps you should reread it: "Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet?" One hot wire...common wire...ground wire. What do you suppose he means by "common wire" other than neutral? I suppose that by that, he means the neutral wire which he *imagines* to be present in the existing 240V motor circuit -- but is almost certainly absent. He's certainly NOT referring to the ground wire since he says "common wire AND ground wire"...clearly two different wires. And of course he doesn't mean the other hot since he expressly stated "connecting only one hot wire" let alone that it would not make any electrical sense. I agree that it's clear he knows the difference between the two. What's not at all clear is whether he -- or you -- realizes that 240V circuits typically do *not* contain a neutral conductor. We won't know unless and until he clarifies but presence of a neutral is VERY STRONGLY suggested in the OP. Sorry, but that's just not correct. The description of the circuit as powering an existing 240V motor "VERY STRONGLY" suggests the ABSENCE of a neutral conductor. There is really nothing else "common wire" can mean. There is no need for this blather about using ground as neutral. He never said anything of the sort. Neither did I. But there is no evidence whatsoever, absent an actual count of the uninsulated conductors present in the cable or conduit, that the OP does in fact have a neutral available. Many people do not understand that 240V devices do not have or use a neutral conductor. The OP may be one of them. You appear to be another. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#33
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220 volt to 110 volt
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#35
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220 volt to 110 volt
Should be fine, note on setups like this with long wire runs from the box,
the motor startup surge can introduce significant spikes which might damage poorly designed electronics. Lights fine. "Tool" wrote in message ... I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? |
#36
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:52:09 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt: Yes, it is -- and you've made the same mistake that Steve did. What mistake is that? Believing what the OP said? You may know electricity, but Steve's "English language interpretation" of the original post is correct. I'd say it's up to the OP to come back and say, oops, I don't have a neutral, rather than you making that assumption. No matter how reasonable and logical you think that assumption is, it's one that absolutely contradicts the statements made by the OP. Well said and completely correct. Doug, since you like to always have the last word, please fill in below why you have better knowledge of what the OP is looking at than he does. Don't be shy, the credibility of you language skills is at stake. |
#37
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220 volt to 110 volt
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#38
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220 volt to 110 volt
In article , "Jeff" wrote:
Should be fine, note on setups like this with long wire runs from the box, the motor startup surge can introduce significant spikes which might damage poorly designed electronics. Lights fine. Wrong. See posts earlier in this thread by gfretwell and myself for explanations of why. Please don't offer electrical advice without understanding it. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#39
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220 volt to 110 volt
I'm thinking WE ALL were duped by a troll. Did you all notice that not once
did the OP come back with answers or further questions? We all fell into the trap this time. steve "Tool" wrote in message ... I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? |
#40
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220 volt to 110 volt
On Nov 20, 5:29 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Tater wrote: On Nov 19, 10:58 pm, Tool wrote: I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110 volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110. Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt outlet? I am not an electrician, but.... Then perhaps you should consider not answering electrical questions... I believe that is how they do it on 220V electric ranges. .. especially when you don't know the answers. To the OP: ignore Tater. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. now that i think further about it, if he has a three wire 240v line going in, he shouldn't do it. now if he has a four wire (red, black, white, bare) line, then he can. |
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