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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 19, 10:58 pm, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


I am not an electrician, but....

I believe that is how they do it on 220V electric ranges.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

Yes, it's that simple. No, it's not legal or proper.

s


"Tool" wrote in message
...
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?



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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 20, 8:38 am, "Steve Barker" wrote:
Yes, it's that simple. No, it's not legal or proper.

s

"Tool" wrote in message

...



I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


They make 220 v lightbulbs you know.

Living temporarily in Europe where it's all 220V, 50 Hz, we use our
same lamps and just buy the 220V bulbs. Works fine.

Sure you can buy transformers but for lights there's no point.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , Tater wrote:
On Nov 19, 10:58 pm, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


I am not an electrician, but....


Then perhaps you should consider not answering electrical questions...

I believe that is how they do it on 220V electric ranges.


... especially when you don't know the answers.

To the OP: ignore Tater.

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , "Steve Barker" wrote:
Yes, it's that simple.


No, it's not.

Go sit in the corner with Tater.]

"Tool" wrote in message
...
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?




--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.


Just for future reference, it's 240 and 120 -- hasn't been 220 and 110 for a
long, long time.

Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot
conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists
of one hot, one neutral, and one ground.

In other words, to get a 120V circuit, you need a neutral, and you probably
don't have one. It's possible, although unlikely, that your pool pump circuit
contains an extra conductor -- check the cable going to the pump, and count
the wires in it. If there are four of them (black, red, white, and bare), then
you can do this easily and safely: black and red to the pump, black and white
(or red and white, doesn't matter) to the 120V outlet, and bare to everywhere
that needs a ground. Verify at the breaker box that black and red go to a
double-pole breaker and white to the neutral bus bar.

If you only have three wires in the cable going to the pool pump (black,
white, and bare), then you don't have a neutral, and you need pull a new cable
that does have one. Rather than remove the existing 3-wire 240V circuit and
replace it with a 4-wire 240V/120V circuit, it's much less trouble to simply
install a new 120V circuit.

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

There is a major difference between making something work, and making it
work safely. Equipment grounding conductors are NEVER used to conduct
anything but fault currents. You'd create an electrical hazard by using a
ground instead of a neutral for your 120 volt circuit




"Tool" wrote in message
...
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?



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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


No: You cannot safely use the ground as one side of an electrical
circuit! Especially in the vicinity of a pool electrical safety is
extremely important. Also non standard wiring might invalidate any
liability insurance, if discovered, even if an an accident did not
occur.

The use of ground as one side of a circuit, even an electrical cooking
stove, is not standard or approved in any jurisdictions that anyone
with an electrical background is aware.

The ground wire is there to safely connect items to ground and prevent
electrical shock and/death 'in the event of a fault condition'. Under
normal no-fault conditions the ground wire does not carry any
electrical current.

Suggest you get someone competent and probably licensed, to reduce you
r liability for something dangerous. Also suggest that the circuit you
are proposing be equipped through a GFI, either an outlet or GFI type
circuit breaker. This may be mandated by regulation anyway in your
jurisdiction.

Respectfully suggest that anyone asking that question in that manner
does not have the knowledge to safely do such work. Yes; it might
work, the lights may come on an everything 'appear' to be OK until
something happens! With any electricty in or near a pool make sure
someone present knows CPR.

Also depending on regulations in your jurisdiction it likely may not
be legal to connect pumps and lights to the same fuse/circuit breaker.
many of these items may seem onerous but they make sense and in some
ways are to protect us from ourselves.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


Suggestion: If all you need is a convenience light 'near' the pool it
may be possible to use a transformer. The transformer would convert/
step down the 220 to 110 volts to feed a conventional lamp. A
transformer for say 100 watts would not be too expensive or large. The
metal frame of such a transformer and the box it is mounted in should
be grounded for safety. The output of the transformer could have
switch to control the light. But again everything should be wired/
mounted in standard way to conform with approved electrical safety and
insurance practices.


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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 20, 3:11 pm, terry wrote:
On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote:

I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


Suggestion: If all you need is a convenience light 'near' the pool it
may be possible to use a transformer. The transformer would convert/
step down the 220 to 110 volts to feed a conventional lamp. A
transformer for say 100 watts would not be too expensive or large. The
metal frame of such a transformer and the box it is mounted in should
be grounded for safety. The output of the transformer could have
switch to control the light. But again everything should be wired/
mounted in standard way to conform with approved electrical safety and
insurance practices.


Far cheaper to buy 220V lightbulbs.

While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety
ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common,
a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not
have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire,
implying he has both available.



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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , TimR wrote:

While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety
ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common,
a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not
have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire,
implying he has both available.


Or he may simply be unaware that 240V circuits don't have a neutral, leading
him to think he has one when he really doesn't.

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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 20, 11:37 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , TimR wrote:

While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety
ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common,
a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not
have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire,
implying he has both available.


Or he may simply be unaware that 240V circuits don't have a neutral, leading
him to think he has one when he really doesn't.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.



Being a 240V line to a pool pump, this raises another issue. Where
is the GFCI? If it's in the panel, then he needs one that will
accomodate both 240V and drawing 120V on the same circuit. Some GFCI
are strictly 240V and if you unbalance it by drawing 120V from one leg
to neutral, it will trip.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 20, 1:52 pm, wrote:
On Nov 20, 11:37 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:





In article , TimR wrote:


While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety
ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common,
a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not
have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire,
implying he has both available.


Or he may simply be unaware that 240V circuits don't have a neutral, leading
him to think he has one when he really doesn't.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)


It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.


Being a 240V line to a pool pump, this raises another issue. Where
is the GFCI? If it's in the panel, then he needs one that will
accommodate both 240V and drawing 120V on the same circuit. Some GFCI
are strictly 240V and if you unbalance it by drawing 120V from one leg
to neutral, it will trip.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Exactly! Just too many open questions.

The OP has not posted sufficiently concise information to make a
complete conclusion. In other words the OP may not be knowledgeable
enough to ask; let alone complete the work safely and in accordance
with code.

That's often a problem with these "If I did this ..... " questions.
We, trying to help, are all asking more questions, perhaps jumping to
or postulating reasonable conclusions and/or saying "If this, or If
that .... ."

Still think for safety and insurance purposes the OP needs to consult
a 'knowledgeable' electrician; not just some Joe around the corner who
'says they know what they are doing' (and by the way I am not a
licensed electrician so this is not a comment protecting an
association or anything!).

Electricity around pools should not be taken lightly! There are
several ways to arrange things that would 'work'; but whether safe or
satisfactory to insurance or electrical codes ....... ?????
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Tue, 20 Nov 2007 08:20:28 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt:

The question is the neutral. Does the wiring out to the pool pump provide a
neutral? If not, you really should not do this.

If there is a neutral, you can take a 110 volt socket off the circuit for
low wattage appliances. It is not acceptable to use the ground as a neutral.


Finally, a correct and useful answer.


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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

TimR wrote:
On Nov 20, 3:11 pm, terry wrote:

On Nov 20, 1:58 am, Tool wrote:


I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


Suggestion: If all you need is a convenience light 'near' the pool it
may be possible to use a transformer. The transformer would convert/
step down the 220 to 110 volts to feed a conventional lamp. A
transformer for say 100 watts would not be too expensive or large. The
metal frame of such a transformer and the box it is mounted in should
be grounded for safety. The output of the transformer could have
switch to control the light. But again everything should be wired/
mounted in standard way to conform with approved electrical safety and
insurance practices.



Far cheaper to buy 220V lightbulbs.


Or just put two 120 volt bulbs of the same wattage in series across the
240 volt line. G

It's likely not to code, but thinking about it, each side of the 240
volt circuit is only 120 volts above ground, and for a zillion years
table lamps didn't have polarized cord plugs, so there was a 50-50
chance that the threaded portion of the light bulb sockets in them were
120 volts off ground.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.


While several people have pointed out you should never use a safety
ground as a return, the OP did not say that. He uses the word common,
a term sometimes still used for neutral. He therefore may or may not
have a safe way to do this. He says common wire AND ground wire,
implying he has both available.






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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Nov 20, 2:38 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:58:31 -0800 (PST), Tool
wrote:

I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor
240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the
bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v?
Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less.
Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there
(15a). This will need to be GFCI protected.


Why should he be converting the pump motor to 120V, when by all
indication he has a 240V circuit with neutral and ground and he just
wants to add a 120V load?
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Tool wrote:

I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.



Just for future reference, it's 240 and 120 -- hasn't been 220 and 110 for a
long, long time.


Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?



No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot
conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists
of one hot, one neutral, and one ground.

In other words, to get a 120V circuit, you need a neutral, and you probably
don't have one. It's possible, although unlikely, that your pool pump circuit
contains an extra conductor -- check the cable going to the pump, and count
the wires in it. If there are four of them (black, red, white, and bare), then
you can do this easily and safely: black and red to the pump, black and white
(or red and white, doesn't matter) to the 120V outlet, and bare to everywhere
that needs a ground. Verify at the breaker box that black and red go to a
double-pole breaker and white to the neutral bus bar.

If you only have three wires in the cable going to the pool pump (black,
white, and bare), then you don't have a neutral, and you need pull a new cable
that does have one. Rather than remove the existing 3-wire 240V circuit and
replace it with a 4-wire 240V/120V circuit, it's much less trouble to simply
install a new 120V circuit.

.... and simpler still to use a 240V light.

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , Jeff Wisnia wrote:

[dumb joke snipped]
It's likely not to code,


No, it's not -- and when the OP is clearly not an expert in electrical
matters, this sort of joke isn't a good idea at all.

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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.


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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article

, Tool
wrote:

[snip]
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?



No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot
conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists
of one hot, one neutral, and one ground.

[snip]
.... and simpler still to use a 240V light.

What about the "standard 110 volt outlet" mentioned by the OP?

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , CJT wrote:
wrote:


Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor
240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the
bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v?
Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less.
Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there
(15a). This will need to be GFCI protected.

I can't imagine why he would want to switch it from 240 to 120.

So that he won't have to pull a new cable, of course.

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , CJT wrote:

Doug Miller wrote:

In article


, Tool
wrote:


[snip]

Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


No. You probably need to pull a new cable. A 240V circuit consists of two hot
conductors and a ground -- and NO neutral conductor. A 120V circuit consists
of one hot, one neutral, and one ground.


[snip]

.... and simpler still to use a 240V light.


What about the "standard 110 volt outlet" mentioned by the OP?

Well, I took it he was open to suggestions.

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , CJT wrote:

wrote:



Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor
240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the
bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v?
Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less.
Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there
(15a). This will need to be GFCI protected.


I can't imagine why he would want to switch it from 240 to 120.


So that he won't have to pull a new cable, of course.

There is that, but he'd probably have to pull one anyway to handle
twice the current.

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
What about the "standard 110 volt outlet" mentioned by the OP?

Well, I took it he was open to suggestions.

He may be. But I would prefer that the OP clearly understands that he cannot
safely install a 120V *outlet* without having a neutral conductor present,
which he probably does not have.

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

In article , CJT wrote:

wrote:



Nobody asked you the most important question. Is your pump motor
240/120 convertible? Most are with a simple swap of a jumper under the
bell cap. The next question is, what does it draw at 120v?
Generally speaking I would say you can do this if it is 1HP or less.
Probably not if it is 1.5HP. I bet you have 14ga wire going out there
(15a). This will need to be GFCI protected.


I can't imagine why he would want to switch it from 240 to 120.


So that he won't have to pull a new cable, of course.

There is that, but he'd probably have to pull one anyway to handle
twice the current.


Depends entirely on the size of the motor (as noted in gfretwell's post
above). If it's 1HP or less, he almost certainly does *not* need to pull
heavier cable.

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article
,
terry wrote:

Respectfully suggest that anyone asking that question in that manner
does not have the knowledge to safely do such work.


This is a DIY group, Terry, and the OP appears to be intelligent. I
don't care whether he knows a ground from a neutral when he walks in
here; if he's capable of understanding the answers he gets then he's
capable of doing the job himself, safely and correctly.

I've seen a lot of idiots wander in here, for whom your response might
be appropriate, but I wouldn't put this fellow in that category at all.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

Doug Miller wrote:
I see *nothing* in the original post that indicates the presence of a
neutral.


Perhaps you should reread it:

"Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one
hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard
110 volt outlet?"

One hot wire...common wire...ground wire. What do you suppose he means by
"common wire" other than neutral? He's certainly NOT referring to the
ground wire since he says "common wire AND ground wire"...clearly two
different wires. And of course he doesn't mean the other hot since he
expressly stated "connecting only one hot wire" let alone that it would not
make any electrical sense.

We won't know unless and until he clarifies but presence of a neutral is
VERY STRONGLY suggested in the OP. There is really nothing else "common
wire" can mean. There is no need for this blather about using ground as
neutral. He never said anything of the sort.

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:58:31 -0800 (PST), Tool
wrote:

I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


As everyone else told you, NEVER use the ground wire as the neutral.
If you actually meant the neutral, meaning you have a WHITE neutral,
and a black and red hot (or two or either color), Then you can do
something. You'd need to run the 220 to a separate breaker box,
install a dual breaker for the pool, and a single 15 or 20A for the
110. (at the pool location) Of course you also need an actual ground,
and there are likely restrictions for a breaker box by a pool (and it
must be an outdoor type box if it's not in an enclosure). If the 220
wires to the pool pimp are in a conduit, you can likely shove a white
wire thru. If not, start digging !!!!


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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:22:33 -0000, Steve Kraus
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt:

Doug Miller wrote:
I see *nothing* in the original post that indicates the presence of a
neutral.


Perhaps you should reread it:

"Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one
hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard
110 volt outlet?"

One hot wire...common wire...ground wire. What do you suppose he means by
"common wire" other than neutral? He's certainly NOT referring to the
ground wire since he says "common wire AND ground wire"...clearly two
different wires. And of course he doesn't mean the other hot since he
expressly stated "connecting only one hot wire" let alone that it would not
make any electrical sense.

We won't know unless and until he clarifies but presence of a neutral is
VERY STRONGLY suggested in the OP. There is really nothing else "common
wire" can mean. There is no need for this blather about using ground as
neutral. He never said anything of the sort.


Nice post Steve.

It's amazing how some people can't read a simple paragraph with any
degree of inference.

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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , Steve Kraus wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
I see *nothing* in the original post that indicates the presence of a
neutral.


Perhaps you should reread it:

"Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one
hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard
110 volt outlet?"

One hot wire...common wire...ground wire. What do you suppose he means by
"common wire" other than neutral?


I suppose that by that, he means the neutral wire which he *imagines* to be
present in the existing 240V motor circuit -- but is almost certainly absent.

He's certainly NOT referring to the
ground wire since he says "common wire AND ground wire"...clearly two
different wires. And of course he doesn't mean the other hot since he
expressly stated "connecting only one hot wire" let alone that it would not
make any electrical sense.


I agree that it's clear he knows the difference between the two. What's not at
all clear is whether he -- or you -- realizes that 240V circuits typically do
*not* contain a neutral conductor.

We won't know unless and until he clarifies but presence of a neutral is
VERY STRONGLY suggested in the OP.


Sorry, but that's just not correct. The description of the circuit as powering
an existing 240V motor "VERY STRONGLY" suggests the ABSENCE of a neutral
conductor.

There is really nothing else "common
wire" can mean. There is no need for this blather about using ground as
neutral. He never said anything of the sort.


Neither did I. But there is no evidence whatsoever, absent an actual count of
the uninsulated conductors present in the cable or conduit, that the OP does
in fact have a neutral available. Many people do not understand that 240V
devices do not have or use a neutral conductor. The OP may be one of them. You
appear to be another.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article ,
(Doug Miller) wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:22:33 -0000, Steve Kraus
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt:

Doug Miller wrote:
I see *nothing* in the original post that indicates the presence of a
neutral.

Perhaps you should reread it:

"Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one
hot wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard
110 volt outlet?"

One hot wire...common wire...ground wire. What do you suppose he means by
"common wire" other than neutral? He's certainly NOT referring to the
ground wire since he says "common wire AND ground wire"...clearly two
different wires. And of course he doesn't mean the other hot since he
expressly stated "connecting only one hot wire" let alone that it would not
make any electrical sense.

We won't know unless and until he clarifies but presence of a neutral is
VERY STRONGLY suggested in the OP. There is really nothing else "common
wire" can mean. There is no need for this blather about using ground as
neutral. He never said anything of the sort.


Nice post Steve.

It's amazing how some people can't read a simple paragraph with any
degree of inference.

Yes, it is -- and you've made the same mistake that Steve did.


What mistake is that? Believing what the OP said? You may know
electricity, but Steve's "English language interpretation" of the
original post is correct. I'd say it's up to the OP to come back and
say, oops, I don't have a neutral, rather than you making that
assumption. No matter how reasonable and logical you think that
assumption is, it's one that absolutely contradicts the statements made
by the OP.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

Should be fine, note on setups like this with long wire runs from the box,
the motor startup surge can introduce significant spikes which might damage
poorly designed electronics. Lights fine.


"Tool" wrote in message
...
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?





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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:52:09 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt:

Yes, it is -- and you've made the same mistake that Steve did.


What mistake is that? Believing what the OP said? You may know
electricity, but Steve's "English language interpretation" of the
original post is correct. I'd say it's up to the OP to come back and
say, oops, I don't have a neutral, rather than you making that
assumption. No matter how reasonable and logical you think that
assumption is, it's one that absolutely contradicts the statements made
by the OP.


Well said and completely correct.

Doug, since you like to always have the last word, please fill in
below why you have better knowledge of what the OP is looking at than
he does. Don't be shy, the credibility of you language skills is at
stake.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , wrote:
On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:52:09 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote Re 220 volt to 110 volt:

Yes, it is -- and you've made the same mistake that Steve did.


What mistake is that? Believing what the OP said? You may know
electricity, but Steve's "English language interpretation" of the
original post is correct. I'd say it's up to the OP to come back and
say, oops, I don't have a neutral, rather than you making that
assumption. No matter how reasonable and logical you think that
assumption is, it's one that absolutely contradicts the statements made
by the OP.


Well said and completely correct.


Well said, yes, but completely INcorrect. In no way does it contradict any
statements made by the OP. The OP *assumes* that he has a neutral; he never
said that he verified that. Since he has a 240V motor circuit, it is
overwhelmingly unlikely that his assumption is correct.

Doug, since you like to always have the last word, please fill in
below why you have better knowledge of what the OP is looking at than
he does. Don't be shy, the credibility of you language skills is at
stake.


This has nothing to do with my having the "last word" since I'm sure that it
won't be, and everything to do with correcting a persistent misunderstanding.

I'll try to put this as simply and plainly as I can.

In North America, at least, 240V motors do not have a neutral. Circuits
supplying such motors are normally installed without a neutral conductor. The
OP has a 240V motor circuit. The probability is very high that there is not a
neutral conductor present in that circuit.

The fact that the OP asked the question he did suggests very strongly that he
does *not*, in fact, know what he's looking at -- indeed, there isn't anything
in the original post to indicate that he has actually looked at it at all yet.

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

In article , "Jeff" wrote:
Should be fine, note on setups like this with long wire runs from the box,
the motor startup surge can introduce significant spikes which might damage
poorly designed electronics. Lights fine.


Wrong. See posts earlier in this thread by gfretwell and myself for
explanations of why.

Please don't offer electrical advice without understanding it.

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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Default 220 volt to 110 volt

I'm thinking WE ALL were duped by a troll. Did you all notice that not once
did the OP come back with answers or further questions? We all fell into
the trap this time.


steve


"Tool" wrote in message
...
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?



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On Nov 20, 5:29 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Tater wrote:

On Nov 19, 10:58 pm, Tool wrote:
I have a 220 volt line that powers my pool pump. I want to run 110
volt lights near the pool pump and would like to convert 220 to 110.
Is this as simple as taking the 220 wires, and connecting only one hot
wire side with the common wire and ground wire to a standard 110 volt
outlet?


I am not an electrician, but....


Then perhaps you should consider not answering electrical questions...



I believe that is how they do it on 220V electric ranges.


.. especially when you don't know the answers.

To the OP: ignore Tater.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.


now that i think further about it, if he has a three wire 240v line
going in, he shouldn't do it.

now if he has a four wire (red, black, white, bare) line, then he can.
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