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#1
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How to fix leak
I have a leak in solder connection on 1 inch cast copper/brass? "T" .....
this is hot water pipe for Boiler/home heating system..... I have made several modifications and when I refilled with water and pressurized found very small leak....about 5 drops a minute.....I thought I could repair with epoxy putty, but did not work...tried twice and still leaks, seem like the epoxy putty just does not seal the uneven surface of the cast copper/brass "T" fitting...and after 1/2 hour or so starts leaking again.........I know the right way to fix is to drain system and re solder connection, would like to avoid this if I can till next summer when I have to drain again anyway........Is there another product that might work? |
#2
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How to fix leak
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#3
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How to fix leak
wrote in message I know the right way to fix is to drain system and re solder connection, OK, so we don't have to tell you how to do it the right way. Proceed. |
#4
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How to fix leak
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ups.com... On Nov 12, 3:05 pm, Speedy Jim wrote: I don't know anything about home boiler systems, so this might be way off base, but I'll throw it out there anyway... An automobile radiator repair guy once told me that stop-leak products can cause more problems than they fix. Since they are made to clog up leaks, they may also clog up any passages that have narrowed due to corrosion and gunk, reducing the efficiency of the radiator. Granted, the passageways in a home boiler system might be so large that this is not an issue, but I thought I'd mention it anyway. You are quite right about auto aspect - the cure being worse than the fix. I recieved a "recall" notice from Subaru several years ago recommending a "conditioning additive" be added to my cooling system free of charge at my dealer. It was supposed to ensure longevity of engine gaskets. I dutifully took my 3 year old car to my dealer in September and had the stuff done. Didn't think anything further about it until next summer when my car started to overheat during long hill climbs. To make a long story short, the "conditioner" was a rad leak-stop product. The service personnel added it then turned off the engine. The metallic agent congealed at the bottom of my rad, effectively restricting the fluid flow by over half. I found all this out when I finally decided to replace the rad (not at the dealer). After seeing the cause of the problem, I approached the dealer who "did the deed". They declined to reimburse me because A) I had the replacement done elsewhere, and B) they hinted that I had added the product myself. These guys get zero business from me now. But good/expensive lesson learned. |
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