I want to build a patio cover (slanted roof) over my patio. What would be
the best way to attach the rafters to the side of my house? I have
Hardi-Plank siding on my house and studs directly behind the HardiPlank.
I'd obviously remove the HardiPlank that is in the way and attach the
rafters to the studs. But how?

Should I do something like bolt/nail a board horizontally across the studs
and then attach my rafters to that? I'm not an expert carpenter but once I
get this part figured out I know enough to handle the rest of the project.
I just want to make sure that it is attached well to the house but not
overkill, either.

On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:51:46 -0600, "GaryH" wrote:

I want to build a patio cover (slanted roof) over my patio. What would be
the best way to attach the rafters to the side of my house? I have
Hardi-Plank siding on my house and studs directly behind the HardiPlank.
I'd obviously remove the HardiPlank that is in the way and attach the
rafters to the studs. But how?

Should I do something like bolt/nail a board horizontally across the studs
and then attach my rafters to that? I'm not an expert carpenter but once I
get this part figured out I know enough to handle the rest of the project.
I just want to make sure that it is attached well to the house but not
overkill, either.

DIY here. Make a sketch and visit your building/permit department.
They gave me all the information we needed. I helped a friend build
mine. Get a permit, if required. Plenty of things must be taken into
account. Roof pitch, roofing type (my is tile), pad depth for columns,
electrical, ledger/beam size, etc.

On Nov 12, 8:51 am, "GaryH" wrote:
I want to build a patio cover (slanted roof) over my patio. What would be
the best way to attach the rafters to the side of my house? I have
Hardi-Plank siding on my house and studs directly behind the HardiPlank.
I'd obviously remove the HardiPlank that is in the way and attach the
rafters to the studs. But how?

Should I do something like bolt/nail a board horizontally across the studs
and then attach my rafters to that? I'm not an expert carpenter but once I
get this part figured out I know enough to handle the rest of the project.
I just want to make sure that it is attached well to the house but not
overkill, either.

Typically this is done by lag bolting a ledger through the siding into
the studs.

Depending on local code requirements & the patio rafter span.....1/2
or 5/8" lags normally will do the trick.

Stagger the bolt pattern; high / low. A 2x6 or 2x8 header should do
the trick; depending on your design.

If you measure or other locate the studs, careful layout of the ledger
will allow you to pre-drill it & hit the studs dead on.

If your patio cover (actually a low slope roof?) is solid...consider
the pitch needed & the effect on header height at the edge of the
patio.

cheers
Bob

On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:19:01 -0000, BobK207
wrote:

.consider
the pitch needed & the effect on header height at the edge of the
patio.

Chuckle.. They sent the tallest inspector in the office, I guess

"GaryH" wrote in message
t...
I want to build a patio cover (slanted roof) over my patio. What would be
the best way to attach the rafters to the side of my house? I have
Hardi-Plank siding on my house and studs directly behind the HardiPlank.
I'd obviously remove the HardiPlank that is in the way and attach the
rafters to the studs. But how?

Should I do something like bolt/nail a board horizontally across the studs
and then attach my rafters to that? I'm not an expert carpenter but once
I
get this part figured out I know enough to handle the rest of the project.
I just want to make sure that it is attached well to the house but not
overkill, either.

If you get a lot of snow, consider the load the roof will need to support,
and where the next support is.

I did a similar project over an 8 foot section of my deck in Portland, OR.
The intent was to allow me to grill during winter. No snow load
considerations to speak of, so I user a ledger board on the wall (attached
with lag screws). The roofed area was 8' X 8', using 2 X 6 "joists" the
length of the run. I used the corrugated translucent fiberglass type
roofing to maximize light and reduce weight. I didn't even consider a
permit.

At the wall, I caulked all along the ledger board, but also flashed above
the ledger from the bottom side of the next lap of siding up. So
effectively there was an original roof overhang, then the flashing which
curved out over the first few inches of my roof material. It remained very
watertight in the 3 years I stayed there after the project.