As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.

Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.

--Jeff

On Nov 12, 9:52?am, JB wrote:
As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.

Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.

--Jeff

oinstall at least 2 switches one for undercabinet, and one for general
overhead, perhaps one for task lighting at sink.

at night the undercabinet ones are nifty.

its CRITICAL you install at least 2 20 amp GFCI counter outlet groups,
give fridge its own circuit, dishwasher its own circuit better if
disposer is on its own, perhaps shared with gas stove if you use gas.

you will need 6 or 7 seperate breakers will your main panel accomdate
it?

kitchens are power hungry areas with many appliances

On Nov 12, 10:04 am, " wrote:
On Nov 12, 9:52?am, JB wrote:

As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.

Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.

--Jeff

oinstall at least 2 switches one for undercabinet, and one for general
overhead, perhaps one for task lighting at sink.

at night the undercabinet ones are nifty.

its CRITICAL you install at least 2 20 amp GFCI counter outlet groups,
give fridge its own circuit, dishwasher its own circuit better if
disposer is on its own, perhaps shared with gas stove if you use gas.

you will need 6 or 7 seperate breakers will your main panel accomdate
it?

kitchens are power hungry areas with many appliances

Everything you describe (except for the undercab lighting) is already
there.

--Jeff

JB wrote:
As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.

Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.

It's fine by code -- the only thing is convenience. If you were to trip
a breaker on this lighting circuit at night is there sufficient light in
the area to cope well enough without a second lighting circuit? Same
reason it's best to not have all lights in any area on a single circuit.

--

Good idea to place lighting on a separate circuit. Then if outlet trips
breaker, you still have lighting.

"JB" wrote in message
As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.

Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.

--Jeff

dpb wrote:
JB wrote:
As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.

Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.

It's fine by code -- the only thing is convenience. If you were to trip
a breaker on this lighting circuit at night is there sufficient light in
the area to cope well enough without a second lighting circuit? Same
reason it's best to not have all lights in any area on a single circuit.

That is more specifically, I'd recommend leaving at least a couple on
the existing circuit and add the new one as well...

--

wrote:
On Nov 12, 10:26 am, dpb wrote:
JB wrote:
As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.
Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.
It's fine by code -- the only thing is convenience. If you were to trip
a breaker on this lighting circuit at night is there sufficient light in
the area to cope well enough without a second lighting circuit? Same
reason it's best to not have all lights in any area on a single circuit.

--

I'd definitely put the under-counter lights on a seperate switch.
....

That's a different question than which circuit powers them...

--

On Nov 12, 10:26 am, dpb wrote:
JB wrote:
As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.

Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.

It's fine by code -- the only thing is convenience. If you were to trip
a breaker on this lighting circuit at night is there sufficient light in
the area to cope well enough without a second lighting circuit? Same
reason it's best to not have all lights in any area on a single circuit.

--

I'd definitely put the under-counter lights on a seperate switch.
There could be times you want them on seperately from the ceiling
lights or vis-versa. And it's the more customary way to do it.

I went through same thing with my family room remodel. I was thinking
of having the lights above the fireplace tied to the recessed general
lighting. Glad now that I didn't. I don't put the lights above the
fireplace on that much and it would just be a waste of energy most of
the time.

On Nov 12, 10:37 am, dpb wrote:
wrote:
On Nov 12, 10:26 am, dpb wrote:
JB wrote:
As part of a kitchen remodeling job, I am replacing a single overhead
fluorescent fixture with ~7 recessed cans and then a bunch of undercab
lights (either halogens or small fluor. boxes). Since the existing
fixture is part of a circuit that goes elsewhere in the house, I
calculated that all of those recessed lights would be too much for the
line. So I'm planning on running a new, dedicated 15A or 20A line.
Assuming the loads are within the capacity of the line (which I think
it is), the question is whether there is anything wrong with having
ALL of the lights -- overhead and undercab -- on this single circuit.
It seems OK to me but just checking.
It's fine by code -- the only thing is convenience. If you were to trip
a breaker on this lighting circuit at night is there sufficient light in
the area to cope well enough without a second lighting circuit? Same
reason it's best to not have all lights in any area on a single circuit.

--

I'd definitely put the under-counter lights on a seperate switch.

...

That's a different question than which circuit powers them...


Yes, point well taken. I misread the question.

I think the main question here is how would you trip the breaker, if only
lights were on it?

and there's always a flashlight.


steve


"dpb" wrote in message ...

It's fine by code -- the only thing is convenience. If you were to trip a
breaker on this lighting circuit at night is there sufficient light in the
area to cope well enough without a second lighting circuit? Same reason
it's best to not have all lights in any area on a single circuit.

--

Steve Barker wrote:
I think the main question here is how would you trip the breaker, if only
lights were on it?

"Stuff" happens...

and there's always a flashlight.
,,,

And in a dark kitchen w/ hot stuff on a stove or similar, fumbling
around in the dark to find it can be sorta' risky when it's easy enough
to ensure the situation is protected against...

--

On Nov 12, 12:26 pm, dpb wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
I think the main question here is how would you trip the breaker, if only
lights were on it?

"Stuff" happens...

and there's always a flashlight.

,,,

And in a dark kitchen w/ hot stuff on a stove or similar, fumbling
around in the dark to find it can be sorta' risky when it's easy enough
to ensure the situation is protected against...

--

Folks...thanks for the tips and feedback. In my case, the chandelier
in the connected dining room in one direction and hall lights in the
other would give plenty of light during a circuit trip. They are on a
different line.

--Jeff

JB wrote:
On Nov 12, 12:26 pm, dpb wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
I think the main question here is how would you trip the breaker, if only
lights were on it?
"Stuff" happens...

and there's always a flashlight.
,,,

And in a dark kitchen w/ hot stuff on a stove or similar, fumbling
around in the dark to find it can be sorta' risky when it's easy enough
to ensure the situation is protected against...

--

Folks...thanks for the tips and feedback. In my case, the chandelier
in the connected dining room in one direction and hall lights in the
other would give plenty of light during a circuit trip. They are on a
different line.

That sounds adequate, then I'd not worry about it...

--

Usually there is a light in the range hood as well, if it comes to that.
What hasn't been mentioned yet is there is a maximum number of drops
permitted on a circuit. I believe it is 12 but I'll be quickly corrected if
I'm wrong. So provided that your ~7 cans and bunch of cabinet lights = 12 or
less, you're fine with the one line.



"JB" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 12, 12:26 pm, dpb wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
I think the main question here is how would you trip the breaker, if
only
lights were on it?

"Stuff" happens...

and there's always a flashlight.

,,,

And in a dark kitchen w/ hot stuff on a stove or similar, fumbling
around in the dark to find it can be sorta' risky when it's easy enough
to ensure the situation is protected against...

--

Folks...thanks for the tips and feedback. In my case, the chandelier
in the connected dining room in one direction and hall lights in the
other would give plenty of light during a circuit trip. They are on a
different line.

--Jeff

On Nov 13, 9:19 am, "Jeff" wrote:
What hasn't been mentioned yet is there is a maximum number of drops
permitted on a circuit. I believe it is 12 but I'll be quickly corrected if
I'm wrong. So provided that your ~7 cans and bunch of cabinet lights = 12 or
less, you're fine with the one line.


Sorry, I don't see that in the code. 210.11 (A) talks about the
MINUMUM number of circuits based on load, but I don't see a MAXIMUM
number off of a breaker mentioned anywhere. Am I missing something??

--Jeff

Sorry about that, I hadn't realized this was specific to Canadian code. A
quick Google search confirms a 12 drop limit in Canada, no specific limit
USA.


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 11:11:55 -0800, JB wrote:

On Nov 13, 9:19 am, "Jeff" wrote:
What hasn't been mentioned yet is there is a maximum number of drops
permitted on a circuit. I believe it is 12 but I'll be quickly corrected
if
I'm wrong. So provided that your ~7 cans and bunch of cabinet lights =
12 or
less, you're fine with the one line.


Sorry, I don't see that in the code. 210.11 (A) talks about the
MINUMUM number of circuits based on load, but I don't see a MAXIMUM
number off of a breaker mentioned anywhere. Am I missing something??

--Jeff

He has a Canada address, they have different rules