I'm remodeling a townhouse I own, and I need to replace three toilets.

Any suggestions as to toilets that are better than others in terms of
minimal maintenance of things like the flush mechanism and minimal clogging?

I've had three Toto Drake toilets in my house for about three years and
have been happy with them, but they are rather expensive. I can get $125
per toilet rebate from my local water board, and would like to keep the
new toilets at $250 or less ($125 each after rebate).

"SMS ???. ?" wrote in message
...
I'm remodeling a townhouse I own, and I need to replace three toilets.

Any suggestions as to toilets that are better than others in terms of
minimal maintenance of things like the flush mechanism and minimal
clogging?

I've had three Toto Drake toilets in my house for about three years and
have been happy with them, but they are rather expensive. I can get $125
per toilet rebate from my local water board, and would like to keep the
new toilets at $250 or less ($125 each after rebate).

When your tenants stuff the toilets and they're clueless about what to do
next, who will handle the problem? You, or a plumber? If a plumber, you
might want to factor that cost in your decision. Know what I mean?

Consumer Reports (who I know isn't perfect blah blah blah) did a pretty good
series of toilet tests using creatively designed fake turds. You might want
to hit the library, or go to www.consumerreports.org and pay seven bucks for
brief access to the reviews.

?B?U01TIOaWr+iSguaWh+KAoiDlpI8=?=
wrote in :

I'm remodeling a townhouse I own, and I need to replace three toilets.

Any suggestions as to toilets that are better than others in terms of
minimal maintenance of things like the flush mechanism and minimal
clogging?

I've had three Toto Drake toilets in my house for about three years
and have been happy with them, but they are rather expensive. I can
get $125 per toilet rebate from my local water board, and would like
to keep the new toilets at $250 or less ($125 each after rebate).


My apt complex installed flapperless toilets in their 330 units,and they
have been very low maintenance.I've had few clogs,and not a single
maintenance call in over 5 years. 1.6 gal/flush.

http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/welcome.htm

http://www.usalandlord.com/fltocokit.html rated them very high.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:

http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/welcome.htm

http://www.usalandlord.com/fltocokit.html rated them very high.

Thanks for that information, this is the sort of thing I'm looking for,
as the flapper toilets are a pain. When the flapper goes bad, the tenant
expects me to pay for the high water bills they incur, but they don't
tell me that it's leaking until the bill comes.

I talked to Niagara this morning. Home Depot will be carrying their
toilets soon (the store near me says that they will arrive on November
19th), under the "Cottage Series" brand. The Home Depot SKU is 840565,
and the price is $149 (this is for the Ecologic EL ADA HET N2225E,
according to Niagara). Now I just have to convince the water district to
add the Home Depot private label model to the list of approved
high-efficiency toilets.

Niagara offered to sell me the Ecologic EL ADA HET toilets for $163
each, but I have pay $170 shipping (total), some Home Depot is a bit
cheaper if the rebate applies. I'm wondering if in fact we're talking
about the same toilet as the Ecologic EL ADA HET 1.28 gallon model sells
for about $300 from web retailers, and it's the 1.6 gallon model
(non-HET) that's around $160.

On Nov 8, 11:13 pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
?B?U01TIOaWr+iSguaWh+KAoiDlpI8=?=
wrote :

I'm remodeling a townhouse I own, and I need to replace three toilets.

Any suggestions as to toilets that are better than others in terms of
minimal maintenance of things like the flush mechanism and minimal
clogging?

I've had three Toto Drake toilets in my house for about three years
and have been happy with them, but they are rather expensive. I can
get $125 per toilet rebate from my local water board, and would like
to keep the new toilets at $250 or less ($125 each after rebate).

My apt complex installed flapperless toilets in their 330 units,and they
have been very low maintenance.I've had few clogs,and not a single
maintenance call in over 5 years. 1.6 gal/flush.

http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/welcome.htm

http://www.usalandlord.com/fltocokit.htmlrated them very high.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

What does this mean?

From: http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/feature.htm

"The MUSKOKA Comfort Toilet features a 17" high bowl, paired with a
low-profile tank. This allows the MUSKOKA to fit where most
conventional toilets would before."

Is there something about 17" high toilets that would prevent them from
fitting where a "conventional toilets would before"?

DerbyDad03 wrote in
ps.com:

On Nov 8, 11:13 pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
?B?U01TIOaWr+iSguaWh+KAoiDlpI8=?=
wrote :

I'm remodeling a townhouse I own, and I need to replace three toilets.

Any suggestions as to toilets that are better than others in terms of
minimal maintenance of things like the flush mechanism and minimal
clogging?

I've had three Toto Drake toilets in my house for about three years
and have been happy with them, but they are rather expensive. I can
get $125 per toilet rebate from my local water board, and would like
to keep the new toilets at $250 or less ($125 each after rebate).

My apt complex installed flapperless toilets in their 330 units,and they
have been very low maintenance.I've had few clogs,and not a single
maintenance call in over 5 years. 1.6 gal/flush.

http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/welcome.htm

http://www.usalandlord.com/fltocokit.htmlrated them very high.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

What does this mean?

From: http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/feature.htm

"The MUSKOKA Comfort Toilet features a 17" high bowl, paired with a
low-profile tank. This allows the MUSKOKA to fit where most
conventional toilets would before."

Is there something about 17" high toilets that would prevent them from
fitting where a "conventional toilets would before"?



I don't know,I'm no toilet expert.
I just have a Niagara flapperless in my apartment,and have had excellent
results with it.

I just measured my bowl height,and it's 15 inches.
that's the same as the old one.

total(Niagara)toilet height is 28.5",and it had to fit under a shelf with
31" clearance.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Nov 9, 4:26 pm, "Cshenk" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
What does this mean?

From:http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/feature.htm

"The MUSKOKA Comfort Toilet features a 17" high bowl, paired with a
low-profile tank. This allows the MUSKOKA to fit where most
conventional toilets would before."

Is there something about 17" high toilets that would prevent them from
fitting where a "conventional toilets would before"?

Yes, if you have a newer house and cabinetry above the tank part then need
to install a toilet with a higher seat, the tank is normally also higher.
These things come up as one gets older and may due to mobility problems,
need a higher 'seat'.

One of our longer term projects is to get our main bathroom ready for my
Mother so when she is ready, she can easily get around in it. The first
step was driven by the renters who didnt notice the tub as rusting out.
Liner now due in. It will fix the leak where it rusted out along the drain
and come with a reinforced side so we can put a handicap rail on the outer
side, and comes with internal rail weighted to 350lbs (Mom is 150lbs if that
but what the hey, wasnt much more). They will structurally reinforce as
needed. The next step has several options relating to making it wheelchair
accessable (Mom is not in a wheelchair but has had hip replacement). That
one is a bit more problematic as it's a long thinish bathroom design.
Removal of the sink cabinet and replacement with those freestanding (sort of
pillar below) sinks would make room but it would be better to also shift the
toilet so its about 16 inches away and direct facing the entry door. Snce
the underpipes are not there, one fellow spec'ed out a raised platform
leading to the existing bottom-works and a low-seated toilet (on platform
mind you so it would be high enough overall).

Another idea is 'out of the box' but cheaper. It adapts the existing 1/2
bath to just move the door (non-structural load bearing wall involved) but
then it's off the master bedroom. Tub in one area accessable, and sink and
toilet in other room accessable.

The rest of the house other than needing a ramp to the back patio (3 inch
difference) and another to the garage (3 inch difference), is wheelchair
accessable grin. Need a small riser to the front door of about 2 inches.
Once inside, all is well.

I have several friends who use wheelchairs but are able to get up for short
distances (3-6 steps for all, some need a little help to steady them). The
shift is as much for them as for my Mom who doesnt even use a walker. The
1/2 bathroom is the one we use for them Butt wheelchair to door and it's
grab sink cabinet then twist around til seated. The only problem is no
hand-rail on both sides. They need to be able to get up with just one side
(sink cabinet) or need help. Once up, need to shuffle about 12 inches over
then about 12 back to the wheelchair.

Sorry, got on a roill there, well beyond your question but it's good info so
will leave it if another in interested.

Thanks, but I have one more question:

You said "if you have a newer house and cabinetry above the tank
part"

Hmm....does that mean an older house with cabinetry above the tank
wouldn't have this problem? ;-)

"SMS ???. ?"

On toilets, I put in 2 Eijer units before we left for Japan, 7 years ago.
My renters were far less than perfect, but thats the one thing they never
created a problem with.

Lord knows they kicked in walls, broke windows out and all sorts of things,
but they couldnt damage those.

Grin, for those who've been following our series of repairs after return
from Sasebo Japan, today's project was replacement of the picture 3 panel
front window (was propped in place with a 2x4 with rags stuffed in corners
to keep the spiders mostly out. That and a bathroom window where the inner
pane was mostly missing). The place feels warmer already. The old windows
were doube-paned but not as energy efficient as the newer products.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

What does this mean?

From: http://www.niagaraflapperless.ca/feature.htm

"The MUSKOKA Comfort Toilet features a 17" high bowl, paired with a
low-profile tank. This allows the MUSKOKA to fit where most
conventional toilets would before."

Is there something about 17" high toilets that would prevent them from
fitting where a "conventional toilets would before"?

Yes, if you have a newer house and cabinetry above the tank part then need
to install a toilet with a higher seat, the tank is normally also higher.
These things come up as one gets older and may due to mobility problems,
need a higher 'seat'.

One of our longer term projects is to get our main bathroom ready for my
Mother so when she is ready, she can easily get around in it. The first
step was driven by the renters who didnt notice the tub as rusting out.
Liner now due in. It will fix the leak where it rusted out along the drain
and come with a reinforced side so we can put a handicap rail on the outer
side, and comes with internal rail weighted to 350lbs (Mom is 150lbs if that
but what the hey, wasnt much more). They will structurally reinforce as
needed. The next step has several options relating to making it wheelchair
accessable (Mom is not in a wheelchair but has had hip replacement). That
one is a bit more problematic as it's a long thinish bathroom design.
Removal of the sink cabinet and replacement with those freestanding (sort of
pillar below) sinks would make room but it would be better to also shift the
toilet so its about 16 inches away and direct facing the entry door. Snce
the underpipes are not there, one fellow spec'ed out a raised platform
leading to the existing bottom-works and a low-seated toilet (on platform
mind you so it would be high enough overall).

Another idea is 'out of the box' but cheaper. It adapts the existing 1/2
bath to just move the door (non-structural load bearing wall involved) but
then it's off the master bedroom. Tub in one area accessable, and sink and
toilet in other room accessable.

The rest of the house other than needing a ramp to the back patio (3 inch
difference) and another to the garage (3 inch difference), is wheelchair
accessable grin. Need a small riser to the front door of about 2 inches.
Once inside, all is well.

I have several friends who use wheelchairs but are able to get up for short
distances (3-6 steps for all, some need a little help to steady them). The
shift is as much for them as for my Mom who doesnt even use a walker. The
1/2 bathroom is the one we use for them Butt wheelchair to door and it's
grab sink cabinet then twist around til seated. The only problem is no
hand-rail on both sides. They need to be able to get up with just one side
(sink cabinet) or need help. Once up, need to shuffle about 12 inches over
then about 12 back to the wheelchair.

Sorry, got on a roill there, well beyond your question but it's good info so
will leave it if another in interested.

On Nov 9, 6:42 pm, "Cshenk" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote

Sorry, got on a roill there, well beyond your question but it's good info
so
will leave it if another in interested.

Thanks, but I have one more question:

You said "if you have a newer house and cabinetry above the tank
part"

Hmm....does that mean an older house with cabinetry above the tank
wouldn't have this problem? ;-)

Smile, good question. The older tanks are bigger so tended to be taller.
Hence, generally you will have enough room for the newer '1.6g' or so tanks
in the older house without a problem, even if raised. A newer house, built
say in last 10 years? Might have been built with the smaller tanks in mind
so may have a cabinet that comes down lower.

Example (not actually measuring anything and making up dimensions here so
use the real ones if you need that data). Older tank top, say standard is
about 36inches. Newer smaller tanks, about 2-3 inches shorter (also
normally less wide and may not be as deep). Replace toilet with the lower
volume one in old house, never have a cabinet problem and you just get a
little more room above the tank than you had. Replace new house toilet with
one that is higher at the tank, may not be room under hanging cabinet over
tiolet tank as it was built with the idea of a 2-3 inch lower 'top' to start
with.

May not be a problem, but if you have a cabinet of any type over your tank,
measure to make sure the taller tank fits. It sucks to find out the tank
lid is 1/2 too 'tall' to be put on.

Makes sense now? Since the tank works laregly by gravity force, the tank is
above the bowl level. Higher the bowl, higher the tank. The one mentoned
in the post had a higher bowl and a lower than it would otherwise have.
Logic tells me the tank is lower but wider to account for the volume needed
for good flushing.

Oh that brings up a minor point. If your toilet is in a tight space and the
tank pretty much has little room at each side, measure the width of those
'lower tank' items to mae sure they fit that way too. Sucks to find out the
tank is 1/2 inch to wide to fit in there grin.

Sorry if I don't put things in fancy terms like the professionals, but hope
I make sense enough. I'm sure there's more to it all than I know as well
and others will add those parts.

HD has a 60$ 1.6 gallon glazed trap, unit that ive put in about 10 of
them, one flush is all they need. , it might be Glacier Bay.

"DerbyDad03" wrote

Sorry, got on a roill there, well beyond your question but it's good info
so
will leave it if another in interested.

Thanks, but I have one more question:

You said "if you have a newer house and cabinetry above the tank
part"

Hmm....does that mean an older house with cabinetry above the tank
wouldn't have this problem? ;-)

Smile, good question. The older tanks are bigger so tended to be taller.
Hence, generally you will have enough room for the newer '1.6g' or so tanks
in the older house without a problem, even if raised. A newer house, built
say in last 10 years? Might have been built with the smaller tanks in mind
so may have a cabinet that comes down lower.

Example (not actually measuring anything and making up dimensions here so
use the real ones if you need that data). Older tank top, say standard is
about 36inches. Newer smaller tanks, about 2-3 inches shorter (also
normally less wide and may not be as deep). Replace toilet with the lower
volume one in old house, never have a cabinet problem and you just get a
little more room above the tank than you had. Replace new house toilet with
one that is higher at the tank, may not be room under hanging cabinet over
tiolet tank as it was built with the idea of a 2-3 inch lower 'top' to start
with.

May not be a problem, but if you have a cabinet of any type over your tank,
measure to make sure the taller tank fits. It sucks to find out the tank
lid is 1/2 too 'tall' to be put on.

Makes sense now? Since the tank works laregly by gravity force, the tank is
above the bowl level. Higher the bowl, higher the tank. The one mentoned
in the post had a higher bowl and a lower than it would otherwise have.
Logic tells me the tank is lower but wider to account for the volume needed
for good flushing.

Oh that brings up a minor point. If your toilet is in a tight space and the
tank pretty much has little room at each side, measure the width of those
'lower tank' items to mae sure they fit that way too. Sucks to find out the
tank is 1/2 inch to wide to fit in there grin.

Sorry if I don't put things in fancy terms like the professionals, but hope
I make sense enough. I'm sure there's more to it all than I know as well
and others will add those parts.

"Cshenk" wrote in message
...

"DerbyDad03" wrote

Sorry, got on a roill there, well beyond your question but it's good
info so
will leave it if another in interested.

Thanks, but I have one more question:

You said "if you have a newer house and cabinetry above the tank
part"

Hmm....does that mean an older house with cabinetry above the tank
wouldn't have this problem? ;-)

Smile, good question. The older tanks are bigger so tended to be taller.
Hence, generally you will have enough room for the newer '1.6g' or so
tanks in the older house without a problem, even if raised. A newer
house, built say in last 10 years? Might have been built with the smaller
tanks in mind so may have a cabinet that comes down lower.

Example (not actually measuring anything and making up dimensions here so
use the real ones if you need that data). Older tank top, say standard is
about 36inches. Newer smaller tanks, about 2-3 inches shorter (also
normally less wide and may not be as deep). Replace toilet with the lower
volume one in old house, never have a cabinet problem and you just get a
little more room above the tank than you had. Replace new house toilet
with one that is higher at the tank, may not be room under hanging cabinet
over tiolet tank as it was built with the idea of a 2-3 inch lower 'top'
to start with.

May not be a problem, but if you have a cabinet of any type over your
tank, measure to make sure the taller tank fits. It sucks to find out the
tank lid is 1/2 too 'tall' to be put on.

Makes sense now? Since the tank works laregly by gravity force, the tank
is above the bowl level. Higher the bowl, higher the tank. The one
mentoned in the post had a higher bowl and a lower than it would otherwise
have. Logic tells me the tank is lower but wider to account for the volume
needed for good flushing.

Oh that brings up a minor point. If your toilet is in a tight space and
the tank pretty much has little room at each side, measure the width of
those 'lower tank' items to mae sure they fit that way too. Sucks to find
out the tank is 1/2 inch to wide to fit in there grin.

Sorry if I don't put things in fancy terms like the professionals, but
hope I make sense enough. I'm sure there's more to it all than I know as
well and others will add those parts.



Don't forget you need quite a bit of space above the tank for
maintenance/repair access to the inside of the tank.

Don Young