I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

I'm just guessing, but I BELIEVE styrofoam would create some very
interesting fumes in a fire. You'd better research this carefully. If I were
you, I'd check the building code in your town, and maybe speak to someone at
a real building supply dealer. Not Home Depot, not Lowe's. A real supplier.

On Nov 5, 8:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message

...





I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

I'm just guessing, but I BELIEVE styrofoam would create some very
interesting fumes in a fire. You'd better research this carefully. If I were
you, I'd check the building code in your town, and maybe speak to someone at
a real building supply dealer. Not Home Depot, not Lowe's. A real supplier.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Foam offgasses for maybe years, it must be sealed and its hard to do.
You also must seal it perfectly tight with no air allowed behind it or
condensation and mold will occure, it happened to me. 2" of red or
blue is only R 11. Foilfaced polyisocyanurate is R 14.4. Foam also
does not allow moisture through, working with foams takes planning and
knowledge. Do it wrong and you can create many problems down the
road.

"ransley" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 5, 8:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message

...





I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I
coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room
should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

I'm just guessing, but I BELIEVE styrofoam would create some very
interesting fumes in a fire. You'd better research this carefully. If I
were
you, I'd check the building code in your town, and maybe speak to someone
at
a real building supply dealer. Not Home Depot, not Lowe's. A real
supplier.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Foam offgasses for maybe years, it must be sealed and its hard to do.
You also must seal it perfectly tight with no air allowed behind it or
condensation and mold will occure, it happened to me. 2" of red or
blue is only R 11. Foilfaced polyisocyanurate is R 14.4. Foam also
does not allow moisture through, working with foams takes planning and
knowledge. Do it wrong and you can create many problems down the
road.


The OP is not talking about insulation quality. He wants to use styrofoam to
smooth an uneven ceiling, and then, melting it with halogen lights.

Heh.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights? How?
In what hollow space?

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights? How?
In what hollow space?



Maybe they're going to put up a foot and a half of foam?

a

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights? How?
In what hollow space?



Maybe they're going to put up a foot and a half of foam?

- Rodger

"Rodger" wrote in message
news:xnGXi.9699$h57.9374@edtnps89...
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I
coul just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should
I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to
glue styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed
lights? How? In what hollow space?

Maybe they're going to put up a foot and a half of foam?

- Rodger

All I can think of right now is idiot campers, starting their campfires
using styrofoam plates & cups as kindling. Blech.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Not a good idea. Styrofoam is a very good insulation, it is made of a flame
retarding material, but, according to building code it must be covered with
something like drywall. It is not allowed to be exposed. Personally, I'd
not use recessed lighting in foam as the light will get very hot, the
insulation will trap the heat and probably melt.

Dave wrote:

I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I could just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

No offense, but are you nuts??? Exposed styrofoam is a major fire
trap.

Styrofoam burns so badly that almost every locality forbids it to be
left exposed, but even if there isn't any law against that, you still
want it covered with something highly fire resistant, like plaster or
sheet rock. Recessed lighting is bad enough for causing fires even
when it's housed properly and surrounded by fireproof insulation with
adequate clearance from the light.

larry moe 'n curly wrote:


Dave wrote:

I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I could just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

No offense, but are you nuts??? Exposed styrofoam is a major fire
trap.

Styrofoam burns so badly that almost every locality forbids it to be
left exposed, but even if there isn't any law against that, you still
want it covered with something highly fire resistant, like plaster or
sheet rock. Recessed lighting is bad enough for causing fires even
when it's housed properly and surrounded by fireproof insulation with
adequate clearance from the light.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"Dave" wrote in message
.. .
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Not a good idea. Styrofoam is a very good insulation, it is made of a flame
retarding material, but, according to building code it must be covered with
something like drywall. It is not allowed to be exposed. Personally, I'd
not use recessed lighting in foam as the light will get very hot, the
insulation will trap the heat and probably melt.


This is a warm ceiling bottom floor (two floor house). I am thinking of covering
it with a few layers of paint and perhaps some ceiling wallpaper.

The lights is what is a problem. Maybe I should cut enough space or add a an
empty space between the stryrofoam sheet and the concrete ceiling.

I've seen many types of stryfoam mouldings and sheets sold in stores so what is
the big deal of not being able to leave it exposed or just painted.

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
.. .
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights? How?
In what hollow space?


I get your point and understand that there must be some space left between the
sheets and the recessed lights. That should still lead to warmth buildup. I must
need a hollow space between ceiling and the styrofoam.

Like I said I am asking for advice.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"Dave" wrote in message
. ..
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I
coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should
I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Not a good idea. Styrofoam is a very good insulation, it is made of a
flame
retarding material, but, according to building code it must be covered
with
something like drywall. It is not allowed to be exposed. Personally, I'd
not use recessed lighting in foam as the light will get very hot, the
insulation will trap the heat and probably melt.


This is a warm ceiling bottom floor (two floor house). I am thinking of
covering
it with a few layers of paint and perhaps some ceiling wallpaper.

The lights is what is a problem. Maybe I should cut enough space or add a
an
empty space between the stryrofoam sheet and the concrete ceiling.

I've seen many types of stryfoam mouldings and sheets sold in stores so
what is
the big deal of not being able to leave it exposed or just painted.

You are completely missing the point. When you checked your local building
code, what did you find out about interior use of styrofoam?

Oh...wait: You haven't checked the code yet, have you?

"Dave" wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
. ..
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I
coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should
I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to
glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights?
How?
In what hollow space?


I get your point and understand that there must be some space left between
the
sheets and the recessed lights. That should still lead to warmth buildup.
I must
need a hollow space between ceiling and the styrofoam.

Like I said I am asking for advice.

OK. Here's your advice: You are NOT going to install styrofoam in your
house. Do you understand?

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
.. .
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I
coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should
I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to
glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights?
How?
In what hollow space?


I get your point and understand that there must be some space left between
the
sheets and the recessed lights. That should still lead to warmth buildup.
I must
need a hollow space between ceiling and the styrofoam.

Like I said I am asking for advice.

OK. Here's your advice: You are NOT going to install styrofoam in your
house. Do you understand?


Why is styfoam so bad? A lot (read most) of moulding are made of styrofoam. Same
goes for a lot of ceiling tiles and decoration.

I will not visit your family in the burn unit, although it is unlikely
you would live through even the most minor fire. Envision melting
styrofoam dripping onto exposed flesh.........kewl


Dave wrote:
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)
Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights? How?
In what hollow space?


I get your point and understand that there must be some space left between the
sheets and the recessed lights. That should still lead to warmth buildup. I must
need a hollow space between ceiling and the styrofoam.

Like I said I am asking for advice.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
. ..
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
m...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I
coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room
should
I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to
glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights?
How?
In what hollow space?


I get your point and understand that there must be some space left
between
the
sheets and the recessed lights. That should still lead to warmth
buildup.
I must
need a hollow space between ceiling and the styrofoam.

Like I said I am asking for advice.

OK. Here's your advice: You are NOT going to install styrofoam in your
house. Do you understand?


Why is styfoam so bad? A lot (read most) of moulding are made of
styrofoam. Same
goes for a lot of ceiling tiles and decoration.

Mind if I ask how old you are? I'm wondering how you couldn't know that
styrofoam produces toxic fumes when it burns.

I'll ask you one more time: When you consulted your local building code,
what did you find out?

Dave wrote:
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling
(wood paneling) had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit
uneven and requires smoothing which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not
grainy) I coul just glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights
but other rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room
should I cut for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Styrofoam (brand name of polystyrene) is often used as a residential
insulation material.

Any reasonable amount of space should be sufficient (say, 1") or the
lighting cans designed for the purpose.

But, as you said, Halogen bulbs are hot. Plus expensive to buy and run. I'd
consider CFL.

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message

Mind if I ask how old you are? I'm wondering how you couldn't know that
styrofoam produces toxic fumes when it burns.

Actually, not it doesn't. Other foam may, but Styrofoam is styrene plastic
and when it burns, produces soot (a lot of it), water, carbon dioxide)
About the same as burning fuel oil. Properly covered, it is useful for
insulation and even for Insulating Concrete Forms www.integraspec.com as an
example.

In any case, it should be covered with drywall. This is a poor application
being suggested by the OP.

"Dave" wrote in message

This is a warm ceiling bottom floor (two floor house). I am thinking of
covering
it with a few layers of paint and perhaps some ceiling wallpaper.

The lights is what is a problem. Maybe I should cut enough space or add a
an
empty space between the stryrofoam sheet and the concrete ceiling.

I've seen many types of stryfoam mouldings and sheets sold in stores so
what is
the big deal of not being able to leave it exposed or just painted.

Styrofoam is usually 1.0 pounds per cubic foot. It has a flame spread
rating that is considered too high to be left uncovered. It will not burn
unless the flame is supported by other material, but it will burn under
those conditions.

The moldings you see are made from recycled styrene material and are a much
higher density, thus a lower flame spread. They are usually used in lesser
amounts also. Please, they are different materials.

You asked for advice. I've been working with foam plastics for 37 years
(packaging, building products, aircraft products, pharmaceutical products)
so I have some idea what I'm talking about. I'd not do what you propose in
my house and I advise against doing it in yours. No recessed lighting in
foam.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"Dave" wrote in message

This is a warm ceiling bottom floor (two floor house). I am thinking of
covering
it with a few layers of paint and perhaps some ceiling wallpaper.

The lights is what is a problem. Maybe I should cut enough space or add a
an
empty space between the stryrofoam sheet and the concrete ceiling.

I've seen many types of stryfoam mouldings and sheets sold in stores so
what is
the big deal of not being able to leave it exposed or just painted.

Styrofoam is usually 1.0 pounds per cubic foot. It has a flame spread
rating that is considered too high to be left uncovered. It will not burn
unless the flame is supported by other material, but it will burn under
those conditions.

The moldings you see are made from recycled styrene material and are a much
higher density, thus a lower flame spread. They are usually used in lesser
amounts also. Please, they are different materials.

You asked for advice. I've been working with foam plastics for 37 years
(packaging, building products, aircraft products, pharmaceutical products)
so I have some idea what I'm talking about. I'd not do what you propose in
my house and I advise against doing it in yours. No recessed lighting in
foam.


Thanks for your post.
I've got two types of styrofoam (polystyrene). A bag white decoration sheets
clearly and sold as intented to be glued to the ceiling. They won't support any
weight.

And then I've got blue much better quality looking (denser) larger sheets. At the
depot they said it can be painted. My son uses them for miniature carvings. He
carves it with chisel and hot wire.

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 21:33:10 +0200, Dave wrote:

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"Dave" wrote in message
. ..
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

Not a good idea. Styrofoam is a very good insulation, it is made of a flame
retarding material, but, according to building code it must be covered with
something like drywall. It is not allowed to be exposed. Personally, I'd
not use recessed lighting in foam as the light will get very hot, the
insulation will trap the heat and probably melt.


This is a warm ceiling bottom floor (two floor house). I am thinking of covering
it with a few layers of paint and perhaps some ceiling wallpaper.

The lights is what is a problem. Maybe I should cut enough space or add a an
empty space between the stryrofoam sheet and the concrete ceiling.

I've seen many types of stryfoam mouldings and sheets sold in stores so what is
the big deal of not being able to leave it exposed or just painted.

Sir,

What part of the word "RECESSED" do you not understand?
How in the f__k are you going to install recessed lights in a concrete
ceiling when you only install 1 1/2 inches of foam? Thats barely deep
enough for an electrical box. Unless you bust a hole in the concrete,
this simply is not going to work. Either start over your plans from
scratch, or get rid of the recessed lights and use surface mounted
lights which will work well since the box will be close to level with
the foam surface. Of course, you are probably violating building
codes and in a fire you'd die in seconds from the burning foam.
Why not just glue on furring strips and add ceiling tiles? Either
way, forget the RECESSED lights. WAKE UP..... this is NOT going to
work.....

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches thick. I

Not a good idea. Styrofoam is a very good insulation, it is made of a flame
retarding material, but, according to building code it must be covered with
something like drywall. It is not allowed to be exposed. Personally, I'd
not use recessed lighting in foam as the light will get very hot, the
insulation will trap the heat and probably melt.

Unless the styrofoam was made with a chemical additive, and most
likely it wasn't, it isn't considered flame retardant. UL once
classified it as "self extinguishing", meaning the material will quit
burning if the source of flame is removed , but UL was heavily
criticized for giving that classification to styrofoam, and apparently
the "self extinguishing" label was based on a test where the material
sat horizontally in a wind tunnel and set on fire.

BTW, the term "fire resistant" can apply to materials that burn fairly
easily, including fire wood.

"larry moe 'n curly" wrote in message
ups.com...

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches thick. I

Not a good idea. Styrofoam is a very good insulation, it is made of a
flame
retarding material, but, according to building code it must be covered
with
something like drywall. It is not allowed to be exposed. Personally,
I'd
not use recessed lighting in foam as the light will get very hot, the
insulation will trap the heat and probably melt.

Unless the styrofoam was made with a chemical additive, and most
likely it wasn't, it isn't considered flame retardant. UL once
classified it as "self extinguishing", meaning the material will quit
burning if the source of flame is removed , but UL was heavily
criticized for giving that classification to styrofoam, and apparently
the "self extinguishing" label was based on a test where the material
sat horizontally in a wind tunnel and set on fire.

BTW, the term "fire resistant" can apply to materials that burn fairly
easily, including fire wood.


You're referring to all kindling I've ever found around a camp site for the
past 35 years. :-)

According to Edwin Pawlowski :

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message

Mind if I ask how old you are? I'm wondering how you couldn't know that
styrofoam produces toxic fumes when it burns.

Actually, not it doesn't. Other foam may, but Styrofoam is styrene plastic
and when it burns, produces soot (a lot of it), water, carbon dioxide)
About the same as burning fuel oil. Properly covered, it is useful for
insulation and even for Insulating Concrete Forms www.integraspec.com as an
example.

While polystyrene is indeed somewhat less toxic than some other
types of foams, how toxic it actually is is highly variable depending
on conditions. Eg: low O2 will result in incomplete burn.

The initial combustion products are styrene and carbon monoxide. Neither
of which are good for you.

http://eumeps.org/pdfs/behaviour.pdf
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Nov 5, 9:33 am, Dave wrote:
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

May I ask why you are considering a low-profile suspended ceiling with
fluorescent lights? Seems like it would give you the same result with
quite a bit less hassle.

On Nov 6, 8:57 am, Pat wrote:
On Nov 5, 9:33 am, Dave wrote:

I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

May I ask why you are considering a low-profile suspended ceiling with
fluorescent lights? Seems like it would give you the same result with
quite a bit less hassle.

Oops. Should be "no considering"...

"Pat" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 5, 9:33 am, Dave wrote:
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should
I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

May I ask why you are considering a low-profile suspended ceiling with
fluorescent lights? Seems like it would give you the same result with
quite a bit less hassle.



Good idea in terms of installation. Bad idea in terms of ugly light (a
generalization that's generally true).

On Nov 6, 9:06 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"Pat" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Nov 5, 9:33 am, Dave wrote:
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room should
I cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

May I ask why you are considering a low-profile suspended ceiling with
fluorescent lights? Seems like it would give you the same result with
quite a bit less hassle.

Good idea in terms of installation. Bad idea in terms of ugly light (a
generalization that's generally true).

Like the styrofoam wouldn't be? I didn't know he was going for
aesthetics. I was thinking about the ability to recess it and keep a
low profile.

"larry moe 'n curly" wrote in message

Unless the styrofoam was made with a chemical additive, and most
likely it wasn't, it isn't considered flame retardant. UL once
classified it as "self extinguishing", meaning the material will quit
burning if the source of flame is removed , but UL was heavily
criticized for giving that classification to styrofoam, and apparently
the "self extinguishing" label was based on a test where the material
sat horizontally in a wind tunnel and set on fire.

BTW, the term "fire resistant" can apply to materials that burn fairly
easily, including fire wood.


The self extinguishing term was used until some time in the mid 1970's when
the lawyer changed it to "modified" material. They add bromides for the
fire retardant. The reason for the change was a lawsuit where some idiot
burned his house down and claimed he thought hte foam would put it out or
some such nonsense.

In practice, the modified material will go out if you remove the source of
ignition. When surrounded by other flammable materials, the flames from
those materials supports the burning of the foam, thus the need for
covering. An exception to this is drop out or melt away ceiling tiles used
below sprinkler systems. They are usually 1/2" thick.

Another clarification here. Styrofoam is the registered trade name of Dow
Chemical's extruded polystyrene board, colored blue. There are other brands
of extruded board in different colors. Then there is the expanded
polystyrene board that is wire cut from billets. Often called "bead board"
since it is made of molded beads of the material. Any material used in
construction must be made of the modified material. When used in packaging
or cooler, regular material is usually used and is more likely to burn and
keep burning once started.

"Cshenk" wrote in message
...
Could he has mis-named the stuff and not mean actual styrofoam but some
other material sold for such use in ceilings?

That's the missing link here. It **seems** he's using something he found
laying around, without having any idea if it's safe to use indoors. Read ALL
the messages in the discussion. The guy has a deluxe reading comprehension
problem.

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling (wood
paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and requires
smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy) I
coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights but
other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room
should
I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)
Time out! Let's see if I'm understanding you correctly: You're going to
glue
styrofoam directly onto the ceiling, and then install recessed lights?
How?
In what hollow space?

I get your point and understand that there must be some space left
between
the
sheets and the recessed lights. That should still lead to warmth
buildup.
I must
need a hollow space between ceiling and the styrofoam.

Like I said I am asking for advice.
OK. Here's your advice: You are NOT going to install styrofoam in your
house. Do you understand?

Why is styfoam so bad? A lot (read most) of moulding are made of
styrofoam. Same
goes for a lot of ceiling tiles and decoration.

Mind if I ask how old you are? I'm wondering how you couldn't know that
styrofoam produces toxic fumes when it burns.

I'll ask you one more time: When you consulted your local building code,
what did you find out?


Dittos. You would not carpet a ceiling, for example, where carpet on
floor is not a problem, but on ceiling - whoosh

Frank

Could he has mis-named the stuff and not mean actual styrofoam but some
other material sold for such use in ceilings?



"larry moe 'n curly" wrote in message
ups.com...

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about two
inches thick. I

Not a good idea. Styrofoam is a very good insulation, it is made of a
flame
retarding material, but, according to building code it must be covered
with
something like drywall. It is not allowed to be exposed. Personally,
I'd
not use recessed lighting in foam as the light will get very hot, the
insulation will trap the heat and probably melt.

Unless the styrofoam was made with a chemical additive, and most
likely it wasn't, it isn't considered flame retardant. UL once
classified it as "self extinguishing", meaning the material will quit
burning if the source of flame is removed , but UL was heavily
criticized for giving that classification to styrofoam, and apparently
the "self extinguishing" label was based on a test where the material
sat horizontally in a wind tunnel and set on fire.

BTW, the term "fire resistant" can apply to materials that burn fairly
easily, including fire wood.

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
:

"ransley" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 5, 8:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message

...





I am renovating a room with a concrete ceiling. Previous ceiling
(wood paneling)
had been removed. The concrete ceiling is a bit uneven and
requires smoothing
which I'd rather not do.

I am thinking of paneling the ceiling with styrofoam sheet about
two inches
thick. I 've got some good quality styrofoam (smooth - not grainy)
I coul
just
glue there.

My question is about the lights. I haven't yet selected any lights
but other
rooms have recessed halogens lights eyebulb style.

Halogens tend to get hot and styrofoam could melt . How much room
should I
cut
for the 50w lights? (a ball park estimate)

I'm just guessing, but I BELIEVE styrofoam would create some very
interesting fumes in a fire. You'd better research this carefully.
If I were
you, I'd check the building code in your town, and maybe speak to
someone at
a real building supply dealer. Not Home Depot, not Lowe's. A real
supplier.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Foam offgasses for maybe years, it must be sealed and its hard to do.
You also must seal it perfectly tight with no air allowed behind it
or condensation and mold will occure, it happened to me. 2" of red or
blue is only R 11. Foilfaced polyisocyanurate is R 14.4. Foam also
does not allow moisture through, working with foams takes planning
and knowledge. Do it wrong and you can create many problems down the
road.


The OP is not talking about insulation quality. He wants to use
styrofoam to smooth an uneven ceiling, and then, melting it with
halogen lights.

Heh.




Yea, imagine knocking off a piece in the room and the equivalent of a
melting plastic army man landing on the backside of your nads.