Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

On Nov 2, 10:11 am, Mikepier wrote:
I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?

To hide a 1/8" transition, you're going to have to taper it a long way
into the 3/8" room, going out a couple of feet and gradually building
up, using a very wide blade.

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

On Nov 2, 9:11 am, Mikepier wrote:
I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?

Try using a long 2 foot wall paper hanging knife to get a long feather
as opposed to a normal 12 inch knife.

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

You will never get it to look level because there will always be that 1/8"
difference between the areas. You should have pulled down the 3/8" drywall
back to a solid divider and installed all 1/2" material.

That said, I have "adjusted" some "bumps" in a ceiling where a beam crossed
an area a little lower than the ceiling joists. This took a lot of compound
even when I used a slightly dried pail to fill the deepest area to reduce
shrinkage and cracking. It took probably 8 coats to keep replacing the
shrinkage, fill cracks and to smooth bumps. I probably sanded off as much as
I left in place to keep it level. It did not want to level very well because
I was using a 4 foot straightedge to scrape the compound flat and to spread
the fill far enough to avoid a shadow line. It worked for my needs in this
particular area. Your results may differ because it is an open room and
windows may emphasise the difference between the levels. You can either
change the thin drywall or do something similar to what I did, hope the
results are acceptable to you.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
ps.com...
I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

On Nov 2, 12:10 pm, "EXT" wrote:
You will never get it to look level because there will always be that 1/8"
difference between the areas. You should have pulled down the 3/8" drywall
back to a solid divider and installed all 1/2" material.

That said, I have "adjusted" some "bumps" in a ceiling where a beam crossed
an area a little lower than the ceiling joists. This took a lot of compound
even when I used a slightly dried pail to fill the deepest area to reduce
shrinkage and cracking. It took probably 8 coats to keep replacing the
shrinkage, fill cracks and to smooth bumps. I probably sanded off as much as
I left in place to keep it level. It did not want to level very well because
I was using a 4 foot straightedge to scrape the compound flat and to spread
the fill far enough to avoid a shadow line. It worked for my needs in this
particular area. Your results may differ because it is an open room and
windows may emphasise the difference between the levels. You can either
change the thin drywall or do something similar to what I did, hope the
results are acceptable to you.

-

Thanks for the tips.
If I pulled down the rest of the 3/8 rock, I would have to paint
pretty much the entire dining room and adjoining living room archway,
more work than I wanted to do. I'll give it some more coats this
weekend.

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

"Mikepier" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 2, 12:10 pm, "EXT" wrote:
You will never get it to look level because there will always be that
1/8"
difference between the areas. You should have pulled down the 3/8"
drywall
back to a solid divider and installed all 1/2" material.

That said, I have "adjusted" some "bumps" in a ceiling where a beam
crossed
an area a little lower than the ceiling joists. This took a lot of
compound
even when I used a slightly dried pail to fill the deepest area to reduce
shrinkage and cracking. It took probably 8 coats to keep replacing the
shrinkage, fill cracks and to smooth bumps. I probably sanded off as much
as
I left in place to keep it level. It did not want to level very well
because
I was using a 4 foot straightedge to scrape the compound flat and to
spread
the fill far enough to avoid a shadow line. It worked for my needs in
this
particular area. Your results may differ because it is an open room and
windows may emphasise the difference between the levels. You can either
change the thin drywall or do something similar to what I did, hope the
results are acceptable to you.

-

Thanks for the tips.
If I pulled down the rest of the 3/8 rock, I would have to paint
pretty much the entire dining room and adjoining living room archway,
more work than I wanted to do. I'll give it some more coats this
weekend.

depending on the situation I think you might be able to feather it "way"
out.

you could shim the 3/8" material to meet the 1/2" if you carefully remove
the screws.

usually a little finesse and extra care will go along way in these
situations. I know cause my wife will make me do it over until see approves.
damn she can be picky!

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

"jthread" wrote in message
...

"Mikepier" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 2, 12:10 pm, "EXT" wrote:
You will never get it to look level because there will always be that
1/8"
difference between the areas. You should have pulled down the 3/8"
drywall
back to a solid divider and installed all 1/2" material.

That said, I have "adjusted" some "bumps" in a ceiling where a beam
crossed
an area a little lower than the ceiling joists. This took a lot of
compound
even when I used a slightly dried pail to fill the deepest area to
reduce
shrinkage and cracking. It took probably 8 coats to keep replacing the
shrinkage, fill cracks and to smooth bumps. I probably sanded off as
much as
I left in place to keep it level. It did not want to level very well
because
I was using a 4 foot straightedge to scrape the compound flat and to
spread
the fill far enough to avoid a shadow line. It worked for my needs in
this
particular area. Your results may differ because it is an open room and
windows may emphasise the difference between the levels. You can either
change the thin drywall or do something similar to what I did, hope the
results are acceptable to you.

-

Thanks for the tips.
If I pulled down the rest of the 3/8 rock, I would have to paint
pretty much the entire dining room and adjoining living room archway,
more work than I wanted to do. I'll give it some more coats this
weekend.

depending on the situation I think you might be able to feather it "way"
out.

you could shim the 3/8" material to meet the 1/2" if you carefully remove
the screws.

usually a little finesse and extra care will go along way in these
situations. I know cause my wife will make me do it over until "she"
approves. damn she can be picky!

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

Mikepier wrote in news:1194012703.014077.88380
@z9g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?


As mentioned, shimming sounds promising.

If it's in the "right place", a piece of nicely profiled wider trim. Rip it
on a saw 1/8 deep lengthwise on the backside for half the width.

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

On Nov 2, 7:11 am, Mikepier wrote:
I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?

Is the step in a place where you could put a beam in without it
looking too unnatural? Maybe it could be something you hang pots
on. :)

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

Some ideas for next time.

1. Remove nails/screws holding 3/8 to joist where transition occurs put
shims under 3/8 to bring it out 1/8 inch.

2. Sister transition joist with a strip of wood 1/8 higher than bottom
surface. Faster 1/2 to this.


"Mikepier" wrote in message
ps.com...
I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

"mike" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 2, 7:11 am, Mikepier wrote:
I recently gutted out my kitchen and took down a wall next to a dining
room, where there was 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. I did not want to
put 3/8" sheetrock on the ceiling in the new kitchen due to concerns
on sagging, and plus I wanted to use 12 foot boards, so 1/2" sheetrock
was the choice. I tried my best to spackle where the 2 meet ( 4 times
already) it still seems its noticeable, although each time I do it it
seems to get better. What is the best way to spackle the joints?

Is the step in a place where you could put a beam in without it
looking too unnatural? Maybe it could be something you hang pots
on. :)

tee hee

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

"Mikepier" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 2, 12:10 pm, "EXT" wrote:
You will never get it to look level because there will always be that
1/8"
difference between the areas. You should have pulled down the 3/8"
drywall
back to a solid divider and installed all 1/2" material.

That said, I have "adjusted" some "bumps" in a ceiling where a beam
crossed
an area a little lower than the ceiling joists. This took a lot of
compound
even when I used a slightly dried pail to fill the deepest area to reduce
shrinkage and cracking. It took probably 8 coats to keep replacing the
shrinkage, fill cracks and to smooth bumps. I probably sanded off as much
as
I left in place to keep it level. It did not want to level very well
because
I was using a 4 foot straightedge to scrape the compound flat and to
spread
the fill far enough to avoid a shadow line. It worked for my needs in
this
particular area. Your results may differ because it is an open room and
windows may emphasise the difference between the levels. You can either
change the thin drywall or do something similar to what I did, hope the
results are acceptable to you.

-

Thanks for the tips.
If I pulled down the rest of the 3/8 rock, I would have to paint
pretty much the entire dining room and adjoining living room archway,
more work than I wanted to do. I'll give it some more coats this
weekend.


So to save a little painting your gonna mess with a half assed patch for ,
how long? And guess what...It's still gonna look like crap. Even with the
large trowels(16 or 18 inch) that I use it's still IMPOSSIBLE to completly
hide and I've been doing it for 20 years. Either get used to it or take it
apart and do it right by ATLEAST removing old drywall back to a door or
window opening or INSIDE corner. Sheetrock is cheap and painting is a MUCH
easier DIY than a big patch...

Sorry to go off on you but I run into this ALL the time even with home reno
pro's.To save a little demo and rock they have a 8 foot butt right in the
middle of a room where old meets new and expect me to "somehow" make it
disappear then bitch cuz they can still see it even AFTER I warn them it
will LIKELY crack and will ALWAYS be noticable... Penny wise and dollar
foolish....IMO

Tips for feathering out where 3/8"&1/2" sheetrock meet
 

"benick" wrote in message
. ..

"Mikepier" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 2, 12:10 pm, "EXT" wrote:
You will never get it to look level because there will always be that
1/8"
difference between the areas. You should have pulled down the 3/8"
drywall
back to a solid divider and installed all 1/2" material.

That said, I have "adjusted" some "bumps" in a ceiling where a beam
crossed
an area a little lower than the ceiling joists. This took a lot of
compound
even when I used a slightly dried pail to fill the deepest area to
reduce
shrinkage and cracking. It took probably 8 coats to keep replacing the
shrinkage, fill cracks and to smooth bumps. I probably sanded off as
much as
I left in place to keep it level. It did not want to level very well
because
I was using a 4 foot straightedge to scrape the compound flat and to
spread
the fill far enough to avoid a shadow line. It worked for my needs in
this
particular area. Your results may differ because it is an open room and
windows may emphasise the difference between the levels. You can either
change the thin drywall or do something similar to what I did, hope the
results are acceptable to you.

-

Thanks for the tips.
If I pulled down the rest of the 3/8 rock, I would have to paint
pretty much the entire dining room and adjoining living room archway,
more work than I wanted to do. I'll give it some more coats this
weekend.


So to save a little painting your gonna mess with a half assed patch for ,
how long? And guess what...It's still gonna look like crap. Even with the
large trowels(16 or 18 inch) that I use it's still IMPOSSIBLE to completly
hide and I've been doing it for 20 years. Either get used to it or take it
apart and do it right by ATLEAST removing old drywall back to a door or


window opening or INSIDE corner. Sheetrock is cheap and painting is a MUCH
easier DIY than a big patch...

Sorry to go off on you but I run into this ALL the time even with home
reno pro's.To save a little demo and rock they have a 8 foot butt right in
the middle of a room where old meets new and expect me to "somehow" make
it disappear then bitch cuz they can still see it even AFTER I warn them
it will LIKELY crack and will ALWAYS be noticable... Penny wise and dollar
foolish....IMO

I hear what you're saying but OTOH I'm all for working with what is there.
Sheetrock maybe cheap but landfills are full of crap from home-remodeling. I
always try to refurbish as opposed to remove. But again, I understand what
you're saying too. Remove what has to be removed. I'd bet I could salvage
quite a bit of his old sheetrock but I've been working with sheetrock and
plaster for a few years and like I said my wife won't let me do it half ass
no matter how hard I try. :-)

Jim
Austin TX