I just installed an exterior door at the bottom of a basement
bulkhead. I framed out the opening for the door using PT 2X4s since
the boards rest (end grain down) on a concrete floor. The pre-hung
door sits on a bed of silicone caulk and I nailed it in place to the
2X4s with galvanized finish nails.

I now want to trim out the door to give it a nicer look and so that I
can insulate between the jambs and the rough opening. What is the
usual advice here? I could use PT for the trim since I will have the
same end grain problem with the trim that I had with the framing for
the rough opening. Also, the edges of the trim will be touching
concrete since the basement where the door is installed is not a
finished area. I am not sure if having wood touch concrete on an edge
is a problem.

So, I see two potential solutions. One, use PT 1X4s for the trim. I
will not have to worry about moisture from the concrete, but the idea
of PT trim seems a bit weird. Painting wet PT does not sound too
useful.

Two, use pine trim as I would for a normal interior door and keep the
bottom of the trim 1/8" off the floor. This solution is more easily
painted, which is nice, but will have pine edges touching concrete.
No end grain issues here, but are pine edges that touch concrete prone
to moisture absorption?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Mike

On Wed, 31 Oct 2007 19:05:32 -0700, Mike wrote:

snip

So, I see two potential solutions. One, use PT 1X4s for the trim. I
will not have to worry about moisture from the concrete, but the idea
of PT trim seems a bit weird. Painting wet PT does not sound too
useful.

Two, use pine trim as I would for a normal interior door and keep the
bottom of the trim 1/8" off the floor. This solution is more easily
painted, which is nice, but will have pine edges touching concrete.
No end grain issues here, but are pine edges that touch concrete prone
to moisture absorption?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Mike

If you at least prime the trim (all sides and ends) before you mount
it you will be fine unless the concrete is really damp, and probably
even then.

If you are really worried about it, use PVC trim. Can't tell the
difference when painted and moisture won't bother it a bit.
It's as easy to work with as pine.

HTH,

Paul

On Oct 31, 10:05 pm, Mike wrote:
I just installed an exterior door at the bottom of a basement
bulkhead. I framed out the opening for the door using PT 2X4s since
the boards rest (end grain down) on a concrete floor. The pre-hung
door sits on a bed of silicone caulk and I nailed it in place to the
2X4s with galvanized finish nails.

I now want to trim out the door to give it a nicer look and so that I
can insulate between the jambs and the rough opening. What is the
usual advice here? I could use PT for the trim since I will have the
same end grain problem with the trim that I had with the framing for
the rough opening. Also, the edges of the trim will be touching
concrete since the basement where the door is installed is not a
finished area. I am not sure if having wood touch concrete on an edge
is a problem.

So, I see two potential solutions. One, use PT 1X4s for the trim. I
will not have to worry about moisture from the concrete, but the idea
of PT trim seems a bit weird. Painting wet PT does not sound too
useful.

Two, use pine trim as I would for a normal interior door and keep the
bottom of the trim 1/8" off the floor. This solution is more easily
painted, which is nice, but will have pine edges touching concrete.
No end grain issues here, but are pine edges that touch concrete prone
to moisture absorption?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Mike

I would have sealed the end grain of the 2x4s or raised them.
Sealing the end grain of the trim, then priming should work.
It takes a bit longer, but is well worth the trouble.
Three years ago we finished our basement including five doors with
trim.
Every piece of wood was dry fit and sealed all surfaces before
installation.
Three months later the city sewer backed up into the basement
repeatedly.
The trim shows no deterioration.
T

"Mike" wrote in message
ups.com...
I just installed an exterior door at the bottom of a basement
bulkhead. I framed out the opening for the door using PT 2X4s since
the boards rest (end grain down) on a concrete floor. The pre-hung
door sits on a bed of silicone caulk and I nailed it in place to the
2X4s with galvanized finish nails.

Not sure how well the bare ends (assuming a cut) of PT will like a
potentially damp surface. If there is uncolored wood exposed, it may not
have had the PT protectant applied to it.

When I had a similar setup with wood on bare floors (my wood had cut ends
and floor had been dampened), I braced the wall weight off the floor and
used a fat blade on a Sawzall to trim the bottom edge off the lumber. Then
I shimmed in chunks of composite shingles as a replacement and moisture
barrier. Naturally, things we unfinished, so it was pretty easy. So far so
good.