Hi, I live in Canada and have done virtually no home renovation work
in my life so far.

Our family house has carpet across both floors and unfininshed
basement.

While trying to sell the store, I noticed lot of people prefer
hardwood floor so I decided to look at option of hardwood flooring
just 1st floor which consists of below.
Living room : 4.60 m x 3.66 m
Dining room : 3.68 m x 3.66 m
Kitchen : 6.25 m x 4.88 m
Family room : 6.70 m x 5.18 m
Library : 3.96 m x 3.35 m

Kitchen and hallway is tile so we will exclude that from discussion.

Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
Hardwood or nothing?

Rest of it converted to feet and then calculated for total Sq. footage
is 855 Sq. feet.

Question2: Some friend told me I should approximate total amount of
materia I buy should be 20% more than Sq. footage due to corners,
partly used materials, etc. Is 20% accurate approximation?

Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
should consider aside from how it looks?

Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
get-go.


Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
floor - I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
hardwood?

Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
replaced?


Thanks so much.

Jae

wrote in message


Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
Hardwood or nothing?

Yes, many people prefer carpet in bedrooms as it feels warmer on the feet.
OTOH, if you, or a family member, have allergies, go with the hardwood all
the way. Easier to clean the dust.




Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
should consider aside from how it looks?

Oak is the most popular, but I'd go with what looks good to me.

Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
get-go.

Not knowing your skills, it is hard to say. One of the most difficult parts
of the te job is getting hte sanding right. Consider having that done by a
pro. Do some research, watch a few "how to" videos, try a small room first.



Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
floor - I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
hardwood?

You need a naler, saws, and some normal measure and marking tools. Consider
buying a nailer nad selling it on ebay when done. It may work out cheaper
than renting.



Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
replaced?

If you take them off with care they can be re-used. Take a good look at
them and see if they will enhance or detract from the new floor and decide
from there.

On Oct 30, 7:20 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
wrote in message

Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
Hardwood or nothing?

Yes, many people prefer carpet in bedrooms as it feels warmer on the feet.
OTOH, if you, or a family member, have allergies, go with the hardwood all
the way. Easier to clean the dust.

Yes, many houses have hardwood in part of downstairs and carpet
upstairs. It all depends on what appeals to you and how much you want
to spend.






Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
should consider aside from how it looks?

Oak is the most popular, but I'd go with what looks good to me.




Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
get-go.

Not knowing your skills, it is hard to say. One of the most difficult parts
of the te job is getting hte sanding right. Consider having that done by a
pro. Do some research, watch a few "how to" videos, try a small room first.

You can avoid the wholes sanding finishing part by using the
engineered pre-finished products. That is what I would do if I were
installing it. Without knowing your skills, I agree with Edwin, hard
to say. I do lots of home projects, but if I were putting wood in
the entire 1st floor, I'd hire a pro. If it were just doing one room
that was less crtical, like maybe a bedroom you want to use as an
office, then I'd say that's a better place to start a DIY project on
something that costs a lot, and if it isn't done correctly, it isn't
going to look good and you'll have problems.







Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
floor - I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
hardwood?

You need a naler, saws, and some normal measure and marking tools. Consider
buying a nailer nad selling it on ebay when done. It may work out cheaper
than renting.


Another indication of why it would be better to hire a pro.



Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
replaced?

If you take them off with care they can be re-used. Take a good look at
them and see if they will enhance or detract from the new floor and decide
from there.

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:46:56 -0700, "
wrote:

Hi, I live in Canada and have done virtually no home renovation work
in my life so far.

Our family house has carpet across both floors and unfininshed
basement.

While trying to sell the store, I noticed lot of people prefer
hardwood floor so I decided to look at option of hardwood flooring
just 1st floor which consists of below.
Living room : 4.60 m x 3.66 m
Dining room : 3.68 m x 3.66 m
Kitchen : 6.25 m x 4.88 m
Family room : 6.70 m x 5.18 m
Library : 3.96 m x 3.35 m

Kitchen and hallway is tile so we will exclude that from discussion.

Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
Hardwood or nothing?

Many folks prefer carpeting in the bedrooms.


Rest of it converted to feet and then calculated for total Sq. footage
is 855 Sq. feet.

Question2: Some friend told me I should approximate total amount of
materia I buy should be 20% more than Sq. footage due to corners,
partly used materials, etc. Is 20% accurate approximation?


Sounds a little high, but okay.

Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
should consider aside from how it looks?


All about personal taste.

Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
get-go.

Most pre-finished hardwood flooring is easy to install, perhaps 10
hours per room (3 hours if experienced.)



Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
floor - I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
hardwood?

Read the manufacturer's recommendations.


Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
replaced?


They can be reused, but they must be removed carefully. There is a
special tool to help you do this.


Thanks so much.

Jae

It's a poor return on investment to install a new floor. You're much
better off cleaning, painting walls white, decluttering, improving
curb-appeal.

According to Phisherman :

Rest of it converted to feet and then calculated for total Sq. footage
is 855 Sq. feet.

Question2: Some friend told me I should approximate total amount of
materia I buy should be 20% more than Sq. footage due to corners,
partly used materials, etc. Is 20% accurate approximation?

Sounds a little high, but okay.

Depends on the material quality and the irregularity of the floor.
"Industry" suggestion is 10%. On a 405sqft floor, I got one extra
box over "exact" (approx 20sf/box), and have most of the last box
left over. There were _no_ rejects, just one board that I wrecked ;-).
But rejects should be expected with most stuff.

Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
should consider aside from how it looks?

All about personal taste.

It's personal taste (of how it looks) plus durability. Most
hardwoods are at least as durable as oak or maple - so it really
comes down to finish durability.

Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
get-go.

Most pre-finished hardwood flooring is easy to install, perhaps 10
hours per room (3 hours if experienced.)

In the aforementioned 405sf, I did it myself. I'm not an amateur
woodworker, but this is my first hardwood floor, and I had good tools to
help. 4 solid 8 hour days. One very simple layout room. According to
the dealer, his expert (and I can personally attest to how good they are
on 4 previous jobs) two-man install crews would take 1 1/2 days, tho,
under duress they could do it in slightly less than 1.

855 sqft is a _lot_ to do yourself. I won't do 400sqft by myself again.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Oct 30, 9:11 pm, Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:46:56 -0700, "





wrote:
Hi, I live in Canada and have done virtually no home renovation work
in my life so far.

Our family house has carpet across both floors and unfininshed
basement.

While trying to sell the store, I noticed lot of people prefer
hardwood floor so I decided to look at option of hardwood flooring
just 1st floor which consists of below.
Living room : 4.60 m x 3.66 m
Dining room : 3.68 m x 3.66 m
Kitchen : 6.25 m x 4.88 m
Family room : 6.70 m x 5.18 m
Library : 3.96 m x 3.35 m

Kitchen and hallway is tile so we will exclude that from discussion.

Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
Hardwood or nothing?

Many folks prefer carpeting in the bedrooms.



Rest of it converted to feet and then calculated for total Sq. footage
is 855 Sq. feet.

Question2: Some friend told me I should approximate total amount of
materia I buy should be 20% more than Sq. footage due to corners,
partly used materials, etc. Is 20% accurate approximation?

Sounds a little high, but okay.

Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
should consider aside from how it looks?

All about personal taste.

Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
get-go.

Most pre-finished hardwood flooring is easy to install, perhaps 10
hours per room (3 hours if experienced.)



Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
floor - I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
hardwood?

Read the manufacturer's recommendations.



Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
replaced?

They can be reused, but they must be removed carefully. There is a
special tool to help you do this.



Thanks so much.

Jae

It's a poor return on investment to install a new floor. You're much
better off cleaning, painting walls white, decluttering, improving
curb-appeal.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'd have to disagree that it's a poor return on investment to install
hardwood floors. This depends on many things. For example, if it's
a modest home in an area where similar homes don't have wood floors,
it may not make sense. On the other hand, if it's a more expensive
home in an area where most other homes of that type have hardwood
floors, then it can have a positive return. And since the OP's house
has a library, I'm guessing it's more likely a home that falls into
the latter class.