On 30 Oct, 16:38, "Cshenk" wrote:
As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If you
happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches). Replace
with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second idea if we
want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine and
stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These were
already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband and I
are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

The most accurate answer will be obtained by having 3 - 4 contractors
come over and look at the actual job - but I suspect you knew that
already.

Things like "Wall not severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped"
and "water damage was signficant" could impact the cost significantly,
so it's hard for anyone to give you a decent estimate over the web. We
also can't tell what else will need to be done if there are code
issues that show up as the work is being performed.

BTW - using a 100 watt bulb in a 60 watt fixture may be a fire hazard,
but it will not cause a short in the switch.

some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches

What's a GFCI switch? ;-)

On 30 Oct, 18:24, "Cshenk" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

ups.com...





On 30 Oct, 16:38, "Cshenk" wrote:
As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell
us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If
you
happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches).
Replace
with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second idea if we
want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do
not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine
and
stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will
be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These
were
already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband
and I
are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

The most accurate answer will be obtained by having 3 - 4 contractors
come over and look at the actual job - but I suspect you knew that
already.

Yes and waiting to be called.

Things like "Wall not severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped"
and "water damage was signficant" could impact the cost significantly,
so it's hard for anyone to give you a decent estimate over the web. We
also can't tell what else will need to be done if there are code
issues that show up as the work is being performed.

True, presume no other code issues in the house other than some has not been
updated from 2 prong to 3 prong. I have a huge number of outlets (origional
owner added 19 in the back porch alone, all but 2 of those are 2 prong). I
recall paying quite a bit to put in a proper ground in an area not wired for
it (kitchen). The fellow was amused as some of the house is and some isnt
(porch I think and garage, possibly one of the 3 bedrooms).

Presume any area not wired for 3 prong, will stay that way if safe. Not
asking for miracle costs of adding that if it is needed as they have to see
the place to estimate for that.

On the water damage, ignore as by the time the electrician sees that part,
it's basically like wiring a new room with studs exposed and no drywall yet
put up. Run lines and put in the boxes.

BTW - using a 100 watt bulb in a 60 watt fixture may be a fire hazard,
but it will not cause a short in the switch.

Not sure what caused it. Just know how it acts. I guess you are telling me
it's the light fixture then?

No, if the power comes on and off when you wiggle the switch, I'm
guessing it's the switch. All a switch does is complete the path of
the hot wire from the source to the fixture by means of a mechanical
contact inside the switch. I'd say it just went bad due to mechanical
failure. The wrong size bulb in the fixture can't cause the switch to
act like this.

Shut off the breaker to that circuit, remove the screws that hold the
switch plate on, remove the switch by loosening the 2 screws that hold
it in the box, loosen the 2 screws that hold the wires on and reverse
these instructions to install the new switch. Fixing this may empower
you (no pun intended) to replace the outlets and save some money.

BTW..maybe it's just a loose wire on the switch and you'll just have
to to tighten it up.

some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches

What's a GFCI switch? ;-)

Perhaps I used the wrong term? The type you want in kitchens and bathrooms.
They have a sort of little breaker built in thats red and pops out.

They're GFCI outlets (or receptacles) not switches. I assumed it was
just a typo since you started the paragraph with the word "outlets",
which was correct..

Good luck!

"Cshenk" wrote in message
...
As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If
you happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches).
Replace with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second
idea if we want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine
and stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These
were already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband and
I are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

Here is what I would do. First, ask around among friends and family. You
might locate someone who can safely do the work before you go spend more. A
lot of people who work in the trades do side jobs for CA$H. If not, I would
check with some of the smaller companies, as they do the smaller things like
this.

Steve

As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If you
happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches). Replace
with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second idea if we
want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine and
stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These were
already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband and I
are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

On Oct 30, 3:12?pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"Cshenk" wrote in message

...





As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If
you happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches).
Replace with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second
idea if we want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine
and stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These
were already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband and
I are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

Here is what I would do. First, ask around among friends and family. You
might locate someone who can safely do the work before you go spend more. A
lot of people who work in the trades do side jobs for CA$H. If not, I would
check with some of the smaller companies, as they do the smaller things like
this.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would replace ALL the 2 prong outlets, they can cause a terrible
hassle at home resale time.

Do you have knob and tube wiring?

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ups.com...
On 30 Oct, 16:38, "Cshenk" wrote:


As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell
us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If
you
happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches).
Replace
with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second idea if we
want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do
not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine
and
stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will
be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These
were
already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband
and I
are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

The most accurate answer will be obtained by having 3 - 4 contractors
come over and look at the actual job - but I suspect you knew that
already.

Yes and waiting to be called.


Things like "Wall not severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped"
and "water damage was signficant" could impact the cost significantly,
so it's hard for anyone to give you a decent estimate over the web. We
also can't tell what else will need to be done if there are code
issues that show up as the work is being performed.

True, presume no other code issues in the house other than some has not been
updated from 2 prong to 3 prong. I have a huge number of outlets (origional
owner added 19 in the back porch alone, all but 2 of those are 2 prong). I
recall paying quite a bit to put in a proper ground in an area not wired for
it (kitchen). The fellow was amused as some of the house is and some isnt
(porch I think and garage, possibly one of the 3 bedrooms).

Presume any area not wired for 3 prong, will stay that way if safe. Not
asking for miracle costs of adding that if it is needed as they have to see
the place to estimate for that.

On the water damage, ignore as by the time the electrician sees that part,
it's basically like wiring a new room with studs exposed and no drywall yet
put up. Run lines and put in the boxes.

BTW - using a 100 watt bulb in a 60 watt fixture may be a fire hazard,
but it will not cause a short in the switch.

Not sure what caused it. Just know how it acts. I guess you are telling me
it's the light fixture then?


some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches

What's a GFCI switch? ;-)

Perhaps I used the wrong term? The type you want in kitchens and bathrooms.
They have a sort of little breaker built in thats red and pops out. As
said, Don and I are not electically savvy. Good at many things but this
isnt one of them.

Carol

In article ,
"Cshenk" wrote:

As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If you
happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches). Replace
with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second idea if we
want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine and
stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These were
already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband and I
are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

$375, not including the 27 outlets. That's for labor only. Minimal parts
cost except for the fans.

I recently bid a job at work, figured 10 hours, the line personnel took
exactly 10:01 to do the job, so you know I'm hot right now.

On Oct 31, 3:55 pm, "Cshenk" wrote:
wrote in messag

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband
and
I are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was
done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

I would replace ALL the 2 prong outlets, they can cause a terrible
hassle at home resale time.

Yes. Over time we'd like to do that but the 19 in the back porch arent
hurting anything and there is a GFCI outlet out there too.

Do you have knob and tube wiring?

Not sure what that is but house was built in 1962. Been upgraded piecemeal
since then. Breaker box is only 10 years old. I've never had a breaker
trip either if that helps understand the overall setup. If I counted right,
its a 360amp box with about 160 of it not even used (3 unsed 30amps plus
some 20's and 15's.)

re -- If I counted right, its a 360amp box with about 160 of it not
even used

You didn't count right. :-)

The amperage rating of the box is not determined by adding up the
amperage rating of each individual breaker. Each breaker merely tells
you what that breaker can handle before it will trip. Long before you
get even close to the total amperage for each circuit, you will
probably overload the main breaker.

Look at the large breaker at the top of the breaker panel. The rating
of that single breaker should be the overall rating of your service.
Could be 60, 100, 150 or 200 or something like that.

Cshenk wrote:
....
Ok. We arent useing most of it. I found a tag area. It says 3 wire, 340
amp max? (It's slightly scuffed there, looks like 340?). Could it be I
have 200 amp service and a box abe to carry more but not doing so? ...

Look at the large breaker at the top of the breaker panel. The rating
of that single breaker should be the overall rating of your service.
Could be 60, 100, 150 or 200 or something like that.

There's the answer that you seem to have ignored. Almost certainly the
main breaker will be sized consistently w/ the service. In any event,
it defines it because that's the point at which total load will trip it
(assuming you could reach that actual load/usage w/o tripping individual
circuit breakers and also, of course, the difference between nominal and
actual absolute trip points, etc., ...)

--

On Oct 31, 3:55 pm, "Cshenk" wrote:
wrote in messag

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband
and
I are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was
done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

I would replace ALL the 2 prong outlets, they can cause a terrible
hassle at home resale time.

Yes. Over time we'd like to do that but the 19 in the back porch arent
hurting anything and there is a GFCI outlet out there too.

Do you have knob and tube wiring?

Not sure what that is but house was built in 1962. Been upgraded piecemeal
since then. Breaker box is only 10 years old. I've never had a breaker
trip either if that helps understand the overall setup. If I counted right,
its a 360amp box with about 160 of it not even used (3 unsed 30amps plus
some 20's and 15's.)

I think you counted wrong. :-)

You can't determine the size of the service by adding up the ratings
of the individual breakers. The ratings on the breakers merely denote
what that breaker can handle before it will trip. Long before you
reach the capacity of all the breakers in the box, you will probably
trip the main breaker.

Look at the rating on the main breaker - the big one at the top of the
panel. It should read something like 60, 100, 150, or 200. If things
are as they should be, then that is the amperage of the service
entering the house.

Cshenk wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message
.
Cshenk wrote:
...

amp max? (It's slightly scuffed there, looks like 340?). Could it be I
have 200 amp service and a box abe to carry more but not doing so? ...

Look at the large breaker at the top of the breaker panel. The rating
of that single breaker should be the overall rating of your service.
Could be 60, 100, 150 or 200 or something like that.
There's the answer that you seem to have ignored. Almost certainly the
main breaker will be sized consistently w/ the service. In any event, it
defines it because that's the point at which total load will trip it
(assuming you could reach that actual load/usage w/o tripping individual
circuit breakers and also, of course, the difference between nominal and
actual absolute trip points, etc., ...)

Thanks but the only thing on the big breaker is 'on/off' and a little GE
label.

I has to have a rating...

--

"Smitty Two" wrote in message



As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell
us
what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it. If
you
happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

- Outets, 2 prong (some of house is 3 prng with new GFCI switches).
Replace
with 3 prong. Looking at price for 3-5 of them, then a second idea if we
want to do 27 of them.

- Light switch, pulled from wall, needs new box and mounting. Wall not
severely damaged but old bolt holes stripped

- Light switch with short in kitchen over sink (jiggle it and it comes on
but only when 50% of the way between on and off (we have it off and do
not
touch it) (caused by stupid renters putting 100W bulb in a 60W unit we
think). Can get new light for the spot easy and have it there for
replacement if needed.

- replace 2 ceiling fan/lights with new units (ceiling joist/box is fine
and
stable).

- completely replace and rewire 3 outlets in enclosed porch, walls will
be
down and inulation and drywall installed after the electrical is done.
Looking at the bare studs and outer wall at the time of the work. These
were
already wired but the water damage was signficant.

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband
and I
are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.

$375, not including the 27 outlets. That's for labor only. Minimal parts
cost except for the fans.

Thanks! That sounds reasonable. We arent electrically savvy and there's
lots of *small* jobs on my list. We did the doorbell button easy enough
(grin). Just call us fraidy-cats. Sometimes it's wse to know your limits.


I recently bid a job at work, figured 10 hours, the line personnel took
exactly 10:01 to do the job, so you know I'm hot right now.

;-) Wish you were here in Virginia Beach area!
xxcarol

"SteveB" wrote
..
As we get further into repairs after renters, looking for very *general*
rate info on some items. We know the rates vary but if anyone can tell
us what they paid (and area you generally live in) we'd appreciate it.
If you happen to be in Norfolk area, thats us.

Snip, several small jobs)

Here is what I would do. First, ask around among friends and family. You
might locate someone who can safely do the work before you go spend more.
A lot of people who work in the trades do side jobs for CA$H. If not, I
would check with some of the smaller companies, as they do the smaller
things like this.

I have very few friends here just now because we just moved back from Sasebo
Japan, but I am going to catch my neighbor who does roofing and such and ask
if he has a friend who'd like some extra money (cash) for the various small
jobs.
xxcarol

wrote in messag

I know some of you can easily do this yourselves, but while my husband
and
I are pretty handy (and quite handy with some things), electrical isnt
something we are comfortable with. Wed rather pay and *know* it was
done
right and safely as well as to code.

Replies appreciated!
Carol.


I would replace ALL the 2 prong outlets, they can cause a terrible
hassle at home resale time.

Yes. Over time we'd like to do that but the 19 in the back porch arent
hurting anything and there is a GFCI outlet out there too.

Do you have knob and tube wiring?

Not sure what that is but house was built in 1962. Been upgraded piecemeal
since then. Breaker box is only 10 years old. I've never had a breaker
trip either if that helps understand the overall setup. If I counted right,
its a 360amp box with about 160 of it not even used (3 unsed 30amps plus
some 20's and 15's.)

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

since then. Breaker box is only 10 years old. I've never had a breaker
trip either if that helps understand the overall setup. If I counted
right,
its a 360amp box with about 160 of it not even used (3 unsed 30amps plus
some 20's and 15's.)

re -- If I counted right, its a 360amp box with about 160 of it not
even used

You didn't count right. :-)

Grin, see why we prefer to get an electrician? I'm learning though and that
is good!


The amperage rating of the box is not determined by adding up the
amperage rating of each individual breaker. Each breaker merely tells
you what that breaker can handle before it will trip. Long before you
get even close to the total amperage for each circuit, you will
probably overload the main breaker.


Ok. We arent useing most of it. I found a tag area. It says 3 wire, 340
amp max? (It's slightly scuffed there, looks like 340?). Could it be I
have 200 amp service and a box abe to carry more but not doing so? Do the
boxes come in 340 amp types? If it helps, I know the old box was 100amp and
the origional owner had it removed and put ths one in due to power tools and
such.

I see in another thread someone wondering if they should upgrade from 100amp
to 200amp whle they are at it fixing up a basement. Seems they needed a
'sub box' insead as they are largely gas appliances. I'm gas stove, heat
(with electric needed for the blower) and gas ho****er I know my electric
bills are lower than most in my area. I know when we have had electrical
work, the electricans smile at the box and say my wiring is good but not all
yet upgraded. It's an ongoing project.

..


Look at the large breaker at the top of the breaker panel. The rating
of that single breaker should be the overall rating of your service.
Could be 60, 100, 150 or 200 or something like that.

"dpb" wrote in message
..
Cshenk wrote:
...

amp max? (It's slightly scuffed there, looks like 340?). Could it be I
have 200 amp service and a box abe to carry more but not doing so? ...

Look at the large breaker at the top of the breaker panel. The rating
of that single breaker should be the overall rating of your service.
Could be 60, 100, 150 or 200 or something like that.

There's the answer that you seem to have ignored. Almost certainly the
main breaker will be sized consistently w/ the service. In any event, it
defines it because that's the point at which total load will trip it
(assuming you could reach that actual load/usage w/o tripping individual
circuit breakers and also, of course, the difference between nominal and
actual absolute trip points, etc., ...)

Thanks but the only thing on the big breaker is 'on/off' and a little GE
label.