It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?
rj

"RJ" wrote in message
...

It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?
rj

The ones you've glued are popping out?

"RJ" wrote in message
...

It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?

They probably don't fit very well when you reassemble them. I would use
epoxy.
They make a material that is supposed to permanently swell the wood, but I
haven't tried it.

RJ wrote:
It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?
rj


I've always had good luck using Gorrilla Glue on those joints.

Just keep wiping off any excess that oozes out while it's curing. Easier
to do that when it's wet than having to carve it off when dry.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

On 27 Oct, 17:25, "RJ" wrote:
It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?
rj

If the ones you are reapiring are the ones that are popping out, then
you may not be getting glue to wood contact. This can occur for 2
reasons:

1 - Either there is a lot of glue left on the rung and/or in the hole
(wood glue won't adhere very well to old glue) or
2 - The rung has shrunk so much that it isn't making good contact with
the other surface. Elmer's woodworker is not made to fill gaps.

Try this:

1 - Sand both the dowel end of the rung and the inside of the hole
down to bare wood.
2 - Use a thin kerf saw and cut a groove in the dowel end of the rung.
3 - Insert a shim in the groove to expand the dowel end enough to get
a snug fit.
4 - Apply glue, reassemble and clamp lightly.

Or, you could use a gap filling glue or epoxy.

According to :

It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?
rj

If the joints you're gluing are what's coming apart, it's
probably because you didn't clean the rungs or holes well
enough. Glue-to-glue adhesion may not work very well - you
want bare wood.

Lee Valley sells a glue called "chair doctor". While I've not
used it, it should work fairly well because it's designed
specifically for this. It's a somewhat thinned wood glue
with a syringe cap. You don't have to take the joint
apart... Stick the needle in the gap, and squirt.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

"RJ" wrote

It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?

I've considered trying something like these:

http://www.shophometrends.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_305086

Mr. Grip Furniture repair kit ... I think I've seen other brands.
Anyone tried them?

nancy

"Nancy Young" wrote in message
...

"RJ" wrote

It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?

I've considered trying something like these:

http://www.shophometrends.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_305086

Mr. Grip Furniture repair kit ... I think I've seen other brands.
Anyone tried them?

I've used them for holding screws in stripped out holes; worked pretty well.
Oddly I haven't needed them in 10 years; I must have gotten more careful!

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 14:25:58 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:


It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?
rj


Titebond and Elmer's woodworking glues are the standard glues for wood
and very good brands. The wood must be clean and free from finish
and old glue for the joint to bond well. Use a web clamp and allow
the glue to fully cure, undisturbed, for 2 days before use. You
might consider a "fox joint" on the end of a rung which swells and the
rung is driven into the mortise. More often, chairs are mass-produced
and not made properly. Very dry weather can make dowels shrink; high
humidity is equally bad.

"Toller" wrote

"Nancy Young" wrote

I've considered trying something like these:

http://www.shophometrends.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_305086

Mr. Grip Furniture repair kit ... I think I've seen other brands.
Anyone tried them?

I've used them for holding screws in stripped out holes; worked pretty
well.
Oddly I haven't needed them in 10 years; I must have gotten more careful!

That's an interesting idea, I could have used them on this one project.
I'll keep that in mind, thanks.

nancy

On 2007-10-27, DerbyDad03 wrote:

3 - Insert a shim in the groove to expand the dowel end enough to
get a snug fit.

Or if you'll like to get fancy, try this variation:

Make the shim wedge-shaped, so that if you were to fully drive it into
the groove, the dowel end would be a little bigger than a snug fit.
Then put the wedge in the mortise (hole) and start inserting the tenon
(dowel), with the groove in the tenon lined up with the wedge. As you
get close to bottoming out the tenon in the mortise, the wedge will
expand the tenon to fit tightly against the mortise.

You'll have to use a mallet or clamp to get the tenon to fully seat.
Just be sure not to make the wedge so big that you split the piece of
wood with the mortise. Also, you should arrange the wedge so that it
is perpendicular to the grain of the mortised piece, to reduce
splitting.

I believe this technique is called "fox wedging".

Cheers, Wayne

"Toller" wrote in message
...

"Nancy Young" wrote in message
...

"RJ" wrote

It's pretty dry down here in Arizona.
Ever since we've moved here,
rungs have been popping out of the sockets
in my kitchen chairs.

I use ELMERS woodworking glue,
and clamp the pieces when done....

Still... another one pops out every month.

Is there a better glue I should be using ?

I've considered trying something like these:

http://www.shophometrends.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_305086

Mr. Grip Furniture repair kit ... I think I've seen other brands.
Anyone tried them?

I've used them for holding screws in stripped out holes; worked pretty
well.
Oddly I haven't needed them in 10 years; I must have gotten more careful!


Harbor Freights has it but much cheaper. I've used it on stripped bolts and
screws - steel to steel and steel to concrete - provided much added pullout
force for such a cheap and quick fix.

On Oct 27, 8:04 pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2007-10-27, DerbyDad03 wrote:

3 - Insert a shim in the groove to expand the dowel end enough to
get a snug fit.

Or if you'll like to get fancy, try this variation:

Make the shim wedge-shaped, so that if you were to fully drive it into
the groove, the dowel end would be a little bigger than a snug fit.
Then put the wedge in the mortise (hole) and start inserting the tenon
(dowel), with the groove in the tenon lined up with the wedge. As you
get close to bottoming out the tenon in the mortise, the wedge will
expand the tenon to fit tightly against the mortise.

You'll have to use a mallet or clamp to get the tenon to fully seat.
Just be sure not to make the wedge so big that you split the piece of
wood with the mortise. Also, you should arrange the wedge so that it
is perpendicular to the grain of the mortised piece, to reduce
splitting.

I believe this technique is called "fox wedging".

Cheers, Wayne

Make the shim wedge-shaped

I guess I should have been more specific... when I think shim, I think
wedge shaped. I'm not sure how you could expand a a dowel end without
damaging it with flat piece of stock.

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
After reading many of the replies, I would like to suggest that this is
a special problem. Using the "strongest" glues is not a fix all solution.
The grain direction, shrinking and swelling etc of the joint calls for a
flexible glue and that is often not the "strongest" glue. That is why I
suggest looking for a product designed for this type of joint and not just
choosing an otherwise great glue for this job.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit




In the old days horse glue was used but than it was rare to have 300 pound
plus person putting unnecessary stresses on old furniture that was designed
for a 150 pounder.

On Oct 28, 1:02 pm, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:
After reading many of the replies, I would like to suggest that this is
a special problem. Using the "strongest" glues is not a fix all solution.
The grain direction, shrinking and swelling etc of the joint calls for a
flexible glue and that is often not the "strongest" glue. That is why I
suggest looking for a product designed for this type of joint and not just
choosing an otherwise great glue for this job.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

Discussion subject changed to "GLUEING CHAIR RUNGS Special note"
by Joseph Meehan

Just curious as to why you feel this response is "special" enough to
warrant a change in the subject line. While there is certainly nothing
wrong with it, it doesn't appear any more special than the other
responses in this thread.