I poseted a message yesterday and am stuffed if I can find it. so here
it is again

Has anyone ever made a corrugated metal rain water tank

I live in an area with no mains water connected, so rely on rainwater
collected from my roof into two 22,500 ltr tanks 13,000 of which is
reserved for bushfire fighting.

With a growing family and drought I need another tank.

The price of one of these tanks is approx $2500 AU.

These tanks are old technology and simply curved corrugated metal
riveted together.

I know that you can order the steel from suppliers curved to any
radius you like.

Has anyone ever made thier own tank?

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:51:02 -0700, AussieRich
wrote Re Home made rain water tank:

These tanks are old technology and simply curved corrugated metal
riveted together.

How do they seal the seams? That would be crucial.

plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill, with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper

On Oct 17, 9:07 am, " wrote:
plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill, with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper


I know some people are under the impression that plastic lasts
forever... but it gets brittle and eventually cracks. I was removing
a sink today to install granite counter tops and the brittle plastic
piece which connects to the stainless steel broke off on me instead of
unscrewing. I stored a lot of old mail rubber-banded by date and when
I went to go through it years later to throw 99% of it out all the
rubber-bands had broken by themselves. The rubber hoses in your car
eventually leak. Ultraviolet also causes many plastics to fall
apart. Many plastics are even slowly eaten by microbes. While
plastic is a miracle of "modern science" and the best choice for many
many applications it is normally not a good idea to count on it
lasting longer than concrete, stone, or metal which was properly
designed and maintained. I do not know if it is the right choice for
the OP's application, perhaps it is. It is probably the cheapest.

Picture of "attractive" concrete tank:
http://www.oasisdesign.net/images/im...38rockTank.jpg

On Oct 17, 9:55 pm, Caesar Romano wrote:
On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:51:02 -0700, AussieRich
wrote Re Home made rain water tank:

These tanks are old technology and simply curved corrugated metal
riveted together.

How do they seal the seams? That would be crucial.

Hey,

They seal the seams with a silastic/silicone type sealer, such as roof
and gutter sealant, this stuff is guaranteed for 20+ years

Rich

On Oct 17, 11:07 pm, " wrote:
plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill, with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper

Plastic is the same price as metal to buy approx $3000 for a 23000ltr
tank (6000 Gal), the difference being I was hoping to make the tank.


The other issue with a plastic tank is Bushfires. I live in an area of
high bushfire risk and the thought of my plastic tank melting is not
comforting. i also have two existing tanks and would like to match
them

On Oct 18, 9:49 am, "
wrote:
On Oct 17, 9:07 am, " wrote:

plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill, with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper

I know some people are under the impression that plastic lasts
forever... but it gets brittle and eventually cracks. I was removing
a sink today to install granite counter tops and the brittle plastic
piece which connects to the stainless steel broke off on me instead of
unscrewing. I stored a lot of old mail rubber-banded by date and when
I went to go through it years later to throw 99% of it out all the
rubber-bands had broken by themselves. The rubber hoses in your car
eventually leak. Ultraviolet also causes many plastics to fall
apart. Many plastics are even slowly eaten by microbes. While
plastic is a miracle of "modern science" and the best choice for many
many applications it is normally not a good idea to count on it
lasting longer than concrete, stone, or metal which was properly
designed and maintained. I do not know if it is the right choice for
the OP's application, perhaps it is. It is probably the cheapest.

Picture of "attractive" concrete tank:http://www.oasisdesign.net/images/im...38rockTank.jpg

picture of the type of tank I am talking about

http://www.talesfromthebox.com/wp-ga...rden/tank2.jpg

These things are an australian icon and take on a second life when
rusted out as wood sheds, cubby houses, dog houses, chicken sheds etc
etc.

My existing tanks have a polymer film applied to the inside called
'Aquaplate' which protects the metal from the effects of electrolysis.
The manufacturers of this steel "BHP" gaurantee itl for 25years.

You can buy this stuff in sheets so I am really thinking hard about
having a crack at it.

Also, does anyone know if solid rivets are much stronger than 'Pop'
rivets.?

"AussieRich" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Oct 18, 9:49 am, "
wrote:
On Oct 17, 9:07 am, " wrote:

plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill, with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper

I know some people are under the impression that plastic lasts
forever... but it gets brittle and eventually cracks. I was removing
a sink today to install granite counter tops and the brittle plastic
piece which connects to the stainless steel broke off on me instead of
unscrewing. I stored a lot of old mail rubber-banded by date and when
I went to go through it years later to throw 99% of it out all the
rubber-bands had broken by themselves. The rubber hoses in your car
eventually leak. Ultraviolet also causes many plastics to fall
apart. Many plastics are even slowly eaten by microbes. While
plastic is a miracle of "modern science" and the best choice for many
many applications it is normally not a good idea to count on it
lasting longer than concrete, stone, or metal which was properly
designed and maintained. I do not know if it is the right choice for
the OP's application, perhaps it is. It is probably the cheapest.

Picture of "attractive" concrete
tank:http://www.oasisdesign.net/images/im...38rockTank.jpg

picture of the type of tank I am talking about

http://www.talesfromthebox.com/wp-ga...rden/tank2.jpg

These things are an australian icon and take on a second life when
rusted out as wood sheds, cubby houses, dog houses, chicken sheds etc
etc.

My existing tanks have a polymer film applied to the inside called
'Aquaplate' which protects the metal from the effects of electrolysis.
The manufacturers of this steel "BHP" gaurantee itl for 25years.

You can buy this stuff in sheets so I am really thinking hard about
having a crack at it.

Also, does anyone know if solid rivets are much stronger than 'Pop'
rivets.?


I cant see how you can roll corrugated iron without a set of "corrugated
iron rollers". You can make tanks out of flat sheet but you said you wanted
it to match what you have already. Also moving and supporting a tank made
out of flat sheet is more work.

Solid rivets are stronger in sheer and tension than "normal" pop rivets.

If i was making a DIY water tank i think i would use a plastic lined hole
and put some sort of decking over the top.

In article .com,
AussieRich wrote:

Also, does anyone know if solid rivets are much stronger than 'Pop'
rivets.?

People who build airplanes know that they are.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article .com,
AussieRich wrote:

Also, does anyone know if solid rivets are much stronger than 'Pop'
rivets.?

People who build airplanes know that they are.
The people that build airplanes are also worried about weight. They also use
alloys that wouldn't be of interest to "normal" people. Structural "pop"
rivets are available

On Oct 18, 4:46 pm, "stu" wrote:
"AussieRich" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Oct 18, 9:49 am, "
wrote:
On Oct 17, 9:07 am, " wrote:

plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill, with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper

I know some people are under the impression that plastic lasts
forever... but it gets brittle and eventually cracks. I was removing
a sink today to install granite counter tops and the brittle plastic
piece which connects to the stainless steel broke off on me instead of
unscrewing. I stored a lot of old mail rubber-banded by date and when
I went to go through it years later to throw 99% of it out all the
rubber-bands had broken by themselves. The rubber hoses in your car
eventually leak. Ultraviolet also causes many plastics to fall
apart. Many plastics are even slowly eaten by microbes. While
plastic is a miracle of "modern science" and the best choice for many
many applications it is normally not a good idea to count on it
lasting longer than concrete, stone, or metal which was properly
designed and maintained. I do not know if it is the right choice for
the OP's application, perhaps it is. It is probably the cheapest.

Picture of "attractive" concrete

tank:http://www.oasisdesign.net/images/im...38rockTank.jpg







picture of the type of tank I am talking about

http://www.talesfromthebox.com/wp-ga...rden/tank2.jpg

These things are an australian icon and take on a second life when
rusted out as wood sheds, cubby houses, dog houses, chicken sheds etc
etc.

My existing tanks have a polymer film applied to the inside called
'Aquaplate' which protects the metal from the effects of electrolysis.
The manufacturers of this steel "BHP" gaurantee itl for 25years.

You can buy this stuff in sheets so I am really thinking hard about
having a crack at it.

Also, does anyone know if solid rivets are much stronger than 'Pop'
rivets.?

I cant see how you can roll corrugated iron without a set of "corrugated
iron rollers". You can make tanks out of flat sheet but you said you wanted
it to match what you have already. Also moving and supporting a tank made
out of flat sheet is more work.

Solid rivets are stronger in sheer and tension than "normal" pop rivets.

If i was making a DIY water tank i think i would use a plastic lined hole
and put some sort of decking over the top.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Hey,

You can buy the iron already rolled to what ever specification or
profile you want. They just charge a little extra to roll it.

I'll probably go with solid rivets as due to the round shape of the
tank the steel is in tension and all the rivets would most likely be
needing to have good shear strength.


Rich

"AussieRich" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Oct 18, 4:46 pm, "stu" wrote:
"AussieRich" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Oct 18, 9:49 am, "
wrote:
On Oct 17, 9:07 am, " wrote:

plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill,
with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with
regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper

I know some people are under the impression that plastic lasts
forever... but it gets brittle and eventually cracks. I was
removing
a sink today to install granite counter tops and the brittle plastic
piece which connects to the stainless steel broke off on me instead
of
unscrewing. I stored a lot of old mail rubber-banded by date and
when
I went to go through it years later to throw 99% of it out all the
rubber-bands had broken by themselves. The rubber hoses in your car
eventually leak. Ultraviolet also causes many plastics to fall
apart. Many plastics are even slowly eaten by microbes. While
plastic is a miracle of "modern science" and the best choice for
many
many applications it is normally not a good idea to count on it
lasting longer than concrete, stone, or metal which was properly
designed and maintained. I do not know if it is the right choice
for
the OP's application, perhaps it is. It is probably the cheapest.

Picture of "attractive" concrete

tank:http://www.oasisdesign.net/images/im...38rockTank.jpg







picture of the type of tank I am talking about

http://www.talesfromthebox.com/wp-ga...rden/tank2.jpg

These things are an australian icon and take on a second life when
rusted out as wood sheds, cubby houses, dog houses, chicken sheds etc
etc.

My existing tanks have a polymer film applied to the inside called
'Aquaplate' which protects the metal from the effects of electrolysis.
The manufacturers of this steel "BHP" gaurantee itl for 25years.

You can buy this stuff in sheets so I am really thinking hard about
having a crack at it.

Also, does anyone know if solid rivets are much stronger than 'Pop'
rivets.?

I cant see how you can roll corrugated iron without a set of "corrugated
iron rollers". You can make tanks out of flat sheet but you said you
wanted
it to match what you have already. Also moving and supporting a tank
made
out of flat sheet is more work.

Solid rivets are stronger in sheer and tension than "normal" pop rivets.

If i was making a DIY water tank i think i would use a plastic lined
hole
and put some sort of decking over the top.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Hey,

You can buy the iron already rolled to what ever specification or
profile you want. They just charge a little extra to roll it.

I'll probably go with solid rivets as due to the round shape of the
tank the steel is in tension and all the rivets would most likely be
needing to have good shear strength.


Rich


If you can get the corrugated iron rolled to the diameter of your tank then
you're half way there. I thought you were going to start with flat sheets of
corrugated iron.

As for the rivets, although solids will make it a two person job, if you
have the tools I'd just copy the size and spacing on the tanks you have
already(as long as your new tank isn't going to be much bigger).

You'll need to join three (4 sheets if you can only get 900mm) flat sheets
to make the top and bottom(if you can get them 3.5m long, ) do they use some
sort of lock form joint or just a lap joint??

What sort of joint are you going to use on the top and bottom?

On Oct 19, 1:36 pm, "stu" wrote:
"AussieRich" wrote in message

oups.com...





On Oct 18, 4:46 pm, "stu" wrote:
"AussieRich" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Oct 18, 9:49 am, "
wrote:
On Oct 17, 9:07 am, " wrote:

plastic would appear a better cheaper option, there was a tv show
dream house? a new home built in denver on the side of a hill,
with no
water service they had a room for a plastic water tank with
regular
deliveries.

plastic never rusts leaks etc plus must be cheaper

I know some people are under the impression that plastic lasts
forever... but it gets brittle and eventually cracks. I was
removing
a sink today to install granite counter tops and the brittle plastic
piece which connects to the stainless steel broke off on me instead
of
unscrewing. I stored a lot of old mail rubber-banded by date and
when
I went to go through it years later to throw 99% of it out all the
rubber-bands had broken by themselves. The rubber hoses in your car
eventually leak. Ultraviolet also causes many plastics to fall
apart. Many plastics are even slowly eaten by microbes. While
plastic is a miracle of "modern science" and the best choice for
many
many applications it is normally not a good idea to count on it
lasting longer than concrete, stone, or metal which was properly
designed and maintained. I do not know if it is the right choice
for
the OP's application, perhaps it is. It is probably the cheapest.

Picture of "attractive" concrete

tank:http://www.oasisdesign.net/images/im...38rockTank.jpg

picture of the type of tank I am talking about

http://www.talesfromthebox.com/wp-ga...rden/tank2.jpg

These things are an australian icon and take on a second life when
rusted out as wood sheds, cubby houses, dog houses, chicken sheds etc
etc.

My existing tanks have a polymer film applied to the inside called
'Aquaplate' which protects the metal from the effects of electrolysis.
The manufacturers of this steel "BHP" gaurantee itl for 25years.

You can buy this stuff in sheets so I am really thinking hard about
having a crack at it.

Also, does anyone know if solid rivets are much stronger than 'Pop'
rivets.?

I cant see how you can roll corrugated iron without a set of "corrugated
iron rollers". You can make tanks out of flat sheet but you said you
wanted
it to match what you have already. Also moving and supporting a tank
made
out of flat sheet is more work.

Solid rivets are stronger in sheer and tension than "normal" pop rivets.

If i was making a DIY water tank i think i would use a plastic lined
hole
and put some sort of decking over the top.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Hey,

You can buy the iron already rolled to what ever specification or
profile you want. They just charge a little extra to roll it.

I'll probably go with solid rivets as due to the round shape of the
tank the steel is in tension and all the rivets would most likely be
needing to have good shear strength.

Rich

If you can get the corrugated iron rolled to the diameter of your tank then
you're half way there. I thought you were going to start with flat sheets of
corrugated iron.

As for the rivets, although solids will make it a two person job, if you
have the tools I'd just copy the size and spacing on the tanks you have
already(as long as your new tank isn't going to be much bigger).

You'll need to join three (4 sheets if you can only get 900mm) flat sheets
to make the top and bottom(if you can get them 3.5m long, ) do they use some
sort of lock form joint or just a lap joint??

What sort of joint are you going to use on the top and bottom?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Stu,

The top and bottom of my existing tanks is just flat sheets that are
lap joined and riveted.

Since my last post I found some Australian Standards that go into all
the detail.

The std has a table detailing which metal types are incompatible
beacuse of electrolysis.

They do not differentiate between solid and pop rivets but do funnilly
enough mention self drilling screws!!!

Self drilling screws are a marvel of modern invention, I copied a
Stratco and Highcraft 6m by 6m ptiched roof patio a couple of years
ago and it is basically held together with self drilling screws.

I think I will probably find out off the manufacturer the shear
strength of solid rivets and see if I can get a pop rivet that is as
strong. This will make it a one man job.

The joints to join the top to the bottom are just the bottom cut a bit
bigger that the sides and folded up. Seal it generously on the inside
and away you go.

This sounds a bit flimsy but when you think of how the force of all
that water is distributed inside a cylindrical tank with the bottom
sitting on a concrete slab, the force of the water would be evenly
spread around the cylinder.

I am going to go to a tank shop and have a very close look at what
they have done and go from there. It worked for the Patio.

Stu,

The top and bottom of my existing tanks is just flat sheets that are
lap joined and riveted.

Since my last post I found some Australian Standards that go into all
the detail.

The std has a table detailing which metal types are incompatible
beacuse of electrolysis.

They do not differentiate between solid and pop rivets but do funnilly
enough mention self drilling screws!!!

Self drilling screws are a marvel of modern invention, I copied a
Stratco and Highcraft 6m by 6m ptiched roof patio a couple of years
ago and it is basically held together with self drilling screws.

I think I will probably find out off the manufacturer the shear
strength of solid rivets and see if I can get a pop rivet that is as
strong. This will make it a one man job.

The joints to join the top to the bottom are just the bottom cut a bit
bigger that the sides and folded up. Seal it generously on the inside
and away you go.

This sounds a bit flimsy but when you think of how the force of all
that water is distributed inside a cylindrical tank with the bottom
sitting on a concrete slab, the force of the water would be evenly
spread around the cylinder.

I am going to go to a tank shop and have a very close look at what
they have done and go from there. It worked for the Patio.


Its the vertical joint you have to worry about most(i think).
But copying it from the other tanks should get you there, best of luck.

This discussion seems mostly centered on the tank part of things, so I'd
like to bring up a warning on the sealent side. Most sealents contain
chemicals to inhibit growths (mildew, fungus, etc) that can leach into the
water. Be careful on your choice of sealent. Look for "food grade" sealants


"stu" wrote in message
...


Stu,

The top and bottom of my existing tanks is just flat sheets that are
lap joined and riveted.

Since my last post I found some Australian Standards that go into all
the detail.

The std has a table detailing which metal types are incompatible
beacuse of electrolysis.

They do not differentiate between solid and pop rivets but do funnilly
enough mention self drilling screws!!!

Self drilling screws are a marvel of modern invention, I copied a
Stratco and Highcraft 6m by 6m ptiched roof patio a couple of years
ago and it is basically held together with self drilling screws.

I think I will probably find out off the manufacturer the shear
strength of solid rivets and see if I can get a pop rivet that is as
strong. This will make it a one man job.

The joints to join the top to the bottom are just the bottom cut a bit
bigger that the sides and folded up. Seal it generously on the inside
and away you go.

This sounds a bit flimsy but when you think of how the force of all
that water is distributed inside a cylindrical tank with the bottom
sitting on a concrete slab, the force of the water would be evenly
spread around the cylinder.

I am going to go to a tank shop and have a very close look at what
they have done and go from there. It worked for the Patio.


Its the vertical joint you have to worry about most(i think).
But copying it from the other tanks should get you there, best of luck.