Well, this sounds simple but I'm perplexed enough to ask for advice.

The patient is a standard metal five-section rollup double-car garage door.
After 15 years, it is starting to look somewhat faded. This week I had major
stucco work done on the house, and some of the contractor's material got on
the door. When he washed it off, it left obvious huge streaks and
discolorations on the door. I'm not faulting him - the door was due for
repainting anyway.

But I'm not sure what to do. Several inches of each side is, of course,
covered by the framing of the house. Only a tiny portion of the top section
is visible from the outside. Presumably I want to paint the entirety of the
door, not just the visible portion. Rolled up, there isn't much room between
the door and the ceiling.

I'm not anxious to have the door removed temporarily - there's no way I'll
fool with torsion springs.

What's the "correct" way to attack this problem?

Art

On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 20:26:28 GMT, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:

Well, this sounds simple but I'm perplexed enough to ask for advice.

The patient is a standard metal five-section rollup double-car garage door.
After 15 years, it is starting to look somewhat faded. This week I had major
stucco work done on the house, and some of the contractor's material got on
the door. When he washed it off, it left obvious huge streaks and
discolorations on the door. I'm not faulting him - the door was due for
repainting anyway.

But I'm not sure what to do. Several inches of each side is, of course,
covered by the framing of the house. Only a tiny portion of the top section
is visible from the outside. Presumably I want to paint the entirety of the
door, not just the visible portion. Rolled up, there isn't much room between
the door and the ceiling.

I'm not anxious to have the door removed temporarily - there's no way I'll
fool with torsion springs.

I don't blame ya.

What's the "correct" way to attack this problem?

Have the door removed temporarily, take 5 sections to Maaco or somesuch?? :-)

Seriously, do-you-know/can-you-determine what kind of finish (baked
enamel or ?) is now on the door? How much (if any) rust is on the
surface? Etc, etc.

Have you ever cleaned/waxed the surface?

If it's just badly faded paint, I'd start by giving it a good scrubbing
with strong detergent. Then evaluate if a lite surface-prep and, say,
brushed clear-coat (appropriate for the old finish) might do the job
with minimal expense and labor.

Cheers,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

In article , (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:

But I'm not sure what to do. Several inches of each side is, of course,
covered by the framing of the house. Only a tiny portion of the top section
is visible from the outside. Presumably I want to paint the entirety of the
door, not just the visible portion. Rolled up, there isn't much room between
the door and the ceiling.

Try rolling up the door by about 12 inches. You may very well find
that the top section of the door is sufficiently accessable for
painting.

Obviously, you'll want to experiment a little to find the optimum
position but the chances are good the objective can be accomplished
with this little "trick".

It's a *lot* easier than removing the door ;-)



--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On Oct 3, 4:28 pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
In article , (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
But I'm not sure what to do. Several inches of each side is, of course,
covered by the framing of the house. Only a tiny portion of the top section
is visible from the outside. Presumably I want to paint the entirety of the
door, not just the visible portion. Rolled up, there isn't much room between
the door and the ceiling.

Try rolling up the door by about 12 inches. You may very well find
that the top section of the door is sufficiently accessable for
painting.

Obviously, you'll want to experiment a little to find the optimum
position but the chances are good the objective can be accomplished
with this little "trick".

It's a *lot* easier than removing the door ;-)

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
|http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

You wont see the rest so its no big deal, forget about it. What is is
painting, it probably has an oil paint on it that is chalking, when
you rub your hand on it you see the chalking. It must be washed well
and primed with the right primer, and probably not latex. Go to a real
paint store for the right products.

According to Arthur Shapiro :

I'm not anxious to have the door removed temporarily - there's no way I'll
fool with torsion springs.

Me neither. But, what I did once was to roll the door up, and
jam a large screwdriver into the torsion spring crank hole, so
it wouldn't move.

Then, disconnected the cable from the top of the door, and rolled
the door farther onto the track so the rollers at the top
of the door fall off the track.

At this point the top section is hanging, with the face towards the
back of the garage. You'll want to strap down the door somehow
so the door won't shift any further until you're ready to put
the top rollers back on the track.

Once you get the top section painted, you can reverse the process.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On 3 Oct, 16:26, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
Well, this sounds simple but I'm perplexed enough to ask for advice.

The patient is a standard metal five-section rollup double-car garage door.
After 15 years, it is starting to look somewhat faded. This week I had major
stucco work done on the house, and some of the contractor's material got on
the door. When he washed it off, it left obvious huge streaks and
discolorations on the door. I'm not faulting him - the door was due for
repainting anyway.

But I'm not sure what to do. Several inches of each side is, of course,
covered by the framing of the house. Only a tiny portion of the top section
is visible from the outside. Presumably I want to paint the entirety of the
door, not just the visible portion. Rolled up, there isn't much room between
the door and the ceiling.

I'm not anxious to have the door removed temporarily - there's no way I'll
fool with torsion springs.

What's the "correct" way to attack this problem?

Art

I was able to get to all areas of my wooden single door by raising it
in small increments to expose the portions behind the upper and side
trim/weather stripping. It was a little tricky to start and stop the
opener to get the door positioned right where I wanted it each time,
but it was certainly doable. It's that damn reversing safety feature
that made it tricky. Obviously you'll be painting from a step ladder,
since the exposed portions will always be near the top.

One more thing to keep in mind. Avoid painting up into the gaps
between the door sections, even a little bit. When the door is fully
closed or open, the gap will shut tight, you'll have paint sticking to
paint, and it'll make a loud CRACK as the paint separates when there
door is opened/closed. SWMBO thought the door was broken due to noise
it makes each time she uses it. I'll admit it is rather annoying, so
I'll be sanding my gaps this weekend.

In article om, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I was able to get to all areas of my wooden single door by raising it
in small increments to expose the portions behind the upper and side
trim/weather stripping. It was a little tricky to start and stop the
opener to get the door positioned right where I wanted it each time,
but it was certainly doable. It's that damn reversing safety feature
that made it tricky. Obviously you'll be painting from a step ladder,
since the exposed portions will always be near the top.

You can often disconnect the opener from the door and then
slide the door up and down manually. The torsion spring,
if properly adjusted, will take most/all of the weight so
it shouldn't be hard to move. And it's not usually difficult
finding some way to lock/jam the door in position.

Look for an emergency opener (red toggle on a short bit of
rope?). You can also use this to open the door manually if
the power is out.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On 4 Oct, 13:38, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
In article om, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I was able to get to all areas of my wooden single door by raising it
in small increments to expose the portions behind the upper and side
trim/weather stripping. It was a little tricky to start and stop the
opener to get the door positioned right where I wanted it each time,
but it was certainly doable. It's that damn reversing safety feature
that made it tricky. Obviously you'll be painting from a step ladder,
since the exposed portions will always be near the top.

You can often disconnect the opener from the door and then
slide the door up and down manually. The torsion spring,
if properly adjusted, will take most/all of the weight so
it shouldn't be hard to move. And it's not usually difficult
finding some way to lock/jam the door in position.

- Look for an emergency opener (red toggle on a short bit of
- rope?). You can also use this to open the door manually if
- the power is out.


Uh, thanks for the instructions on how to use the opener that I've
been using for 20 years. ;-) I know you're just trying to help.

When I said "tricky" I didn't mean "difficult". Certainly less
difficult than trying to jam the door in all the various positions
needed to expose the different areas. Most torsion springs (well, at
least mine) will not hold the door open just the few inches required
for me to reach some areas. In addition, I kept repositioning the door
so that most of my painting was done at eye level. Using the opener to
hold the door each time is a lot easier than trying to "jam" it it
into all those different positions.

BTW if you still have that red toggle on a short bit of rope, and your
door has windows, consider how easy it would be for a burgler to break
the window, release the emergency mechanism and open your door.

In article . com, DerbyDad03 wrote:

- Look for an emergency opener (red toggle on a short bit of
- rope?). You can also use this to open the door manually if
- the power is out.

Uh, thanks for the instructions on how to use the opener that I've
been using for 20 years. ;-) I know you're just trying to help.

Okay. I'll wager there's a million folks who've never figured
out what that thing was for ;-)

When I said "tricky" I didn't mean "difficult". Certainly less
difficult than trying to jam the door in all the various positions
needed to expose the different areas. Most torsion springs (well, at
least mine) will not hold the door open just the few inches required
for me to reach some areas. In addition, I kept repositioning the door
so that most of my painting was done at eye level. Using the opener to
hold the door each time is a lot easier than trying to "jam" it it
into all those different positions.

Well, sure it depends on the exact design. In my case, the door
was fairly well balanced and it was a simple matter to fix a
C-clamp on the tracks to lock the door into position quite
positively and safely. Moving the door up or down by one section
took but a few seconds. Had the door been less well balanced
I guess it might have taken two clamps; one on each track.

On the other hand, with my opener, it's *really* hard trying to
stop the door at a specific position with any accuracy.

BTW if you still have that red toggle on a short bit of rope, and your
door has windows, consider how easy it would be for a burgler to break
the window, release the emergency mechanism and open your door.

Heh, good point that I'd never thought about -- but I don't
have any windows.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 12:24:52 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

BTW if you still have that red toggle on a short bit of rope, and your
door has windows, consider how easy it would be for a burgler to break
the window, release the emergency mechanism and open your door.

Thanks for mentioning this. I don't recall reading or hearing of this
in any "home security" precautions.

Excellent point!

--
Oren

"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."

On Oct 4, 2:58 pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 12:24:52 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

BTW if you still have that red toggle on a short bit of rope, and your
door has windows, consider how easy it would be for a burgler to break
the window, release the emergency mechanism and open your door.

Thanks for mentioning this. I don't recall reading or hearing of this
in any "home security" precautions.

In my area people have been known to just pry on the top of the garage
door untill the top section falls in and then hook the rope.
Presto....

On 4 Oct, 16:08, yugami wrote:
On Oct 4, 2:58 pm, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 12:24:52 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

BTW if you still have that red toggle on a short bit of rope, and your
door has windows, consider how easy it would be for a burgler to break
the window, release the emergency mechanism and open your door.

Thanks for mentioning this. I don't recall reading or hearing of this
in any "home security" precautions.

- In my area people have been known to just pry on the top of the
garage
- door untill the top section falls in and then hook the rope.
- Presto....

I'm sitting in my office, visualizing my garage door. This is what my
mind's eye tells me...

If you were somehow able to "pry on the top of the garage door untill
the top section falls in" the opener would no longer be attached to
the rest of the door. Hypothetically, the top section of the door
would be hanging by the opener arm and pulling the rope would serve no
purpose.

In fact, I'm not even sure how someone could "pry on the top of the
garage door untill the top section falls in". There's bolts where each
roller is attached to the door, bolts through the hinges that attach
it to the next panel and bolts holding the locked-in-position opener
arm to the door. I can't imagine how you would "pry on the top of the
garage door untill the top section falls in".

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 13:29:47 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

I can't imagine how you would "pry on the top of the
garage door untill the top section falls in".

Bigger pry bar :-)))

--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

In article .com, yugami wrote:

In my area people have been known to just pry on the top of the garage
door untill the top section falls in and then hook the rope.
Presto....

It doesn't seem a very smart way to break into a home. The
garage doors are typically very visible from the street,
and hence to neighbors, passers-by et al.

Most burgulars would attack the house from some other less
visible angle.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 21:19:48 GMT, (Malcolm Hoar)
wrote:

In article .com, yugami wrote:

In my area people have been known to just pry on the top of the garage
door untill the top section falls in and then hook the rope.
Presto....

It doesn't seem a very smart way to break into a home. The
garage doors are typically very visible from the street,
and hence to neighbors, passers-by et al.

Home invasions happen here when the crooks wait for the door to open
and the victim is inside the garage They can rush in and close the
door.

Two cops shooting pool one day with the garage door open. Faced with
weapons, they killed one intruder and I guess the other is in prison.

Most burgulars would attack the house from some other less
visible angle.

Ever see the bank robber with tree branches to cover him up? It
happened.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 14:32:47 -0700, Oren wrote:

Ever see the bank robber with tree branches to cover him up? It
happened.

http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/200...07_468x291.jpg

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

On 4 Oct, 19:07, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 14:32:47 -0700, Oren wrote:
Ever see the bank robber with tree branches to cover him up? It
happened.

http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/200...07_468x291.jpg

--
Oren

Oh! I thought you meant this kind of "tree branches" cover up...

http://www.comics.com/creators/wizar...-20070930.html

replying to ransley, rmont wrote:
Ammonia mixed with water will remove chalkiness. 2x of light scrubbing.
Always use latex paint, SW, preferably. Oil cracks and peels.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...or-255059-.htm