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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

I bought a brand new Kenmore front loader washer in
2000. It was the model number that started with 417
xxxx.
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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!



After 7 years of light use the main bearing of this
machine failed. The seal failed and all the internal
lube as slung out over inside of machine.


Unless you have an expensive machine (e.g.: a front loader), you just don't
pay anything to repair 7 year old washing machines. You just get a new
one.

You were a little unlucky but 7 years is OK for a washing machine.


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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

"John Gilmer" wrote:



After 7 years of light use the main bearing of this
machine failed. The seal failed and all the internal
lube as slung out over inside of machine.


Unless you have an expensive machine (e.g.: a front loader), you just don't
pay anything to repair 7 year old washing machines. You just get a new
one.

You were a little unlucky but 7 years is OK for a washing machine.


Yes my machine IS a front loader

I'm not sure I agree that 7 years use out of an $800
front loader was such great longevity
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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

"John Gilmer" wrote:

Unless you have an expensive machine (e.g.: a front loader), you just don't
pay anything to repair 7 year old washing machines. You just get a new
one.


Ok but what would you advise replacing it with?
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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

7 years for a single person to use a washer and have it break is way too
short. Was it the small Kenmore front loader? If so it was made by
Frigidaire and is not reliable. Consumer Reports publishes frequency of
repair records. You can check it out at the local library. They just rated
washers again very recently.

Another unreliable frontloader is the original Maytag neptune. We have one
and it broke once in 10 years and we considered ours reliable because we did
about 6 loads per week including heavy comforters. The reason it got a
lousy reliability rating is that early models had 3 problems.... mildew
build up inside, a bad door lock motor, and that would burn out the circuit
board. But if you called up Maytag and complained about mildew during the
first few years of ownership, they upgraded it for free and corrected all
the problems. Unfortunately, someone started a class action suit so Maytag
dug its heels in and stopped the free upgrade. We got the free upgrade and
it is a terrific machine. You can buy the current version at Lowes for
about $550. Even though Consumer Reports says it isn't reliable for the
reasons I listed, I think you will find it reliable now that they got all
the bugs out and it is certainly the cheapest large front loader that
conserves water on the market. And Lowes sells 4 year service agreements
relatively cheap if you want to be conservative. Last time I looked you
could get 4 extra years of warranty for $89.

Consumer Reports favorite machine is the large Kenmore front loader made by
whirlpool. It is called the H3 or H4 or something like that. They run
around $900.


wrote in message
...
"John Gilmer" wrote:

Unless you have an expensive machine (e.g.: a front loader), you just
don't
pay anything to repair 7 year old washing machines. You just get a new
one.


Ok but what would you advise replacing it with?





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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

On Jun 25, 2:19 pm, wrote:
I bought a brand new Kenmore front loader washer in
2000. It was the model number that started with417
xxxx.

I live alone, so only do maybe one load a week, very
light usage for a washer

After 7 years of light use the main bearing of this
machine failed. The seal failed and all the internal
lube as slung out over inside of machine.

To make matters worse, the main bearing is integral to
the tub which means that one must buy a whole new tub
assembly to replace only that main bearing!

Just wondering if anyone lese has been stung with this
washer and what they've done abt it?


I had the same problem with my washer (same model). I wound up fixing
it myself for a couple of hundred dollars, and it's as good as new. I
was able to get a new complete drum assembly for that price, and
simply swap it. Other people have reported being able to simply
replace the bearings for about $50 or so, plus 2-3 hours of work.

More information he http://applianceguru.com/forum2/834.html

If you really want to get a new washer, the people on that forum speak
highly of the Staber washer. It's a horizontal-axis washer (like the
front loaders), but it's top-loading. It also has 2 bearings (one in
the front, and one in the back), so there would be less load on each
one.

Good luck!

Rob

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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

Just a few comments about this thread...

1. The latest Maytag front loader is a rebadged Whirlpool Duet/Kenmore
HE machine. There is virtually no difference between these machines,
and you should get the cheapest one. All Maytag brands are now owned
by Whirlpool, which has shut down many of their former assembly lines
and put the Maytag name on their own products.

2. While electronic problems were fixed over the years by Maytag on
their Neptune, the mildew issue never really was permanently fixed,
despite all the mechnanical improvements they made over the years,
which included the components in the upgrade kit. All front loaders
have a propensity toward mildew and mold, some more than others.
Neptune, being the oldest and most popular design after the resurgence
in front loader popularity in the 90s, seems to have had the biggest
problem.with mold/mildew.

3. The old Maytag Neptune front load washer lives on, reskinned in
another cabinet, under the the Amana brand. It is now the Amana
Enlighten front load washer, with a model number similar to
NAH6800AWW.

4. All front load washers can have bearing problems, some more than
others, and you always have to replace part of the outer tub to
replace the bearings; the bearings are not a replacable part alone.
The old Neptune machines almost never had bearing problems. Front
loaders made by Frigidaire (and their rebadged counterparts) seem to
have the most.

5. Main seal leaks seem to be most popular with Frigidaire front
loaders (and their rebadged counterparts), probably because the o-ring
that keeps water in is so tiny, and the system that connects the front
and rear half of the outer tub utilizes a series of screws, instead of
the clamps that Whirlpool uses, and Maytag used in the past.

6. Because of main seal leaks, and bearing problems, Frigidaire
machines should be be viewed as 5-year units, unless you choose to
purchase some sort of maintenance agreement to deal with these
problems later on.

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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

"Art" wrote:

7 years for a single person to use a washer and have it break is way too
short.


Agree

Was it the small Kenmore front loader? If so it was made by
Frigidaire and is not reliable.


Yes.... I think it is this model in fact
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AE Todd wrote:

All front loaders
have a propensity toward mildew and mold, some more than others.


why is this...?
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AE Todd wrote:

4. All front load washers can have bearing problems, some more than
others, and you always have to replace part of the outer tub to
replace the bearings; the bearings are not a replacable part alone.


OK... but why such a design? Why couldn't they make
it so that the bearing only could be replaced?


5. Main seal leaks seem to be most popular with Frigidaire front
loaders (and their rebadged counterparts), probably because the o-ring
that keeps water in is so tiny, and the system that connects the front
and rear half of the outer tub utilizes a series of screws, instead of
the clamps that Whirlpool uses, and Maytag used in the past.


Yep!! That's what is wrong with mine.... the seal
failed and slung grease and oil everywhere.... then the
bearing failed

6. Because of main seal leaks, and bearing problems, Frigidaire
machines should be be viewed as 5-year units,


Agree on that. Wish Id never bought this unit


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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

wrote:

had the same problem with my washer (same model). I wound up fixing
it myself for a couple of hundred dollars, and it's as good as new. I
was able to get a new complete drum assembly for that price, and
simply swap it. Other people have reported being able to simply
replace the bearings for about $50 or so, plus 2-3 hours of work.

More information he
http://applianceguru.com/forum2/834.html

But how hard was it to replace that drum assembly by
yourself? Looks like a mess of bolts and nuts and
screws in there!


If you really want to get a new washer, the people on that forum speak
highly of the Staber washer. It's a horizontal-axis washer (like the
front loaders), but it's top-loading. It also has 2 bearings (one in
the front, and one in the back), so there would be less load on each
one.


have looked into Stabler.... might consider it
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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

My Whirlpool was here when I moved in, 1994. It's gotten light
use since then. I had to oil the motor in 1994, and then again a
few years later. And the timer got sluggish, I had to take that
apart, and reoil it.

Only seven years? Bah!

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"John Gilmer" wrote in message
...
:
: Unless you have an expensive machine (e.g.: a front loader),
you just don't
: pay anything to repair 7 year old washing machines. You just
get a new
: one.
:
: You were a little unlucky but 7 years is OK for a washing
machine.
:
:


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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

On Jun 27, 9:44 am, wrote:
wrote:
had the same problem with my washer (same model). I wound up fixing
it myself for a couple of hundred dollars, and it's as good as new. I
was able to get a new complete drum assembly for that price, and
simply swap it. Other people have reported being able to simply
replace the bearings for about $50 or so, plus 2-3 hours of work.


More information hehttp://applianceguru.com/forum2/834.html


But how hard was it to replace that drum assembly by
yourself? Looks like a mess of bolts and nuts and
screws in there!


I replaced the entire drum unit (inner drum, both outer shells). I
was able to get the part from Sears (Canada) for 152.99 at the time.
Apparently, the part costs $300-400 in the US right now.

It was actually pretty straightforward to do the swap. It would have
taken longer if I wanted to replace the bearings only (I would have
had to take apart the shell, and it would probably add a couple of
hours to the job).

Here is the guide I followed to remove and replace the drum set:
http://www.zenzoidman.com/documents/RearBearingV6.pdf


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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

Because they are normally closed when not in use. Also the mildew is just
more obvious at the front seal. Top loaders have mildew between tubs but
you can't see it.


wrote in message
...
AE Todd wrote:

All front loaders
have a propensity toward mildew and mold, some more than others.


why is this...?



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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

Mildew and odor form on front loaders for a couple for reasons. Water
pools at the bottom, but on the other surface area of the outer tub,
water just sprays onto the surface. If you add soap scum in the area
of the outer tub that gets very little washing action of water, this
makes a potent breeding ground for mildew and odor, As far as the
rubber boot goes, this forms mildew due the properties of the rubber
itself, as well as the presence of water and humidity.

Why replace the outer tub in order to replace the bearings? The
bearings on a front loader carry a lot of weight. The bearing has to
be set into the tub strongly. This doesn't leave much room for ease
of removal.

Let me add one additional thought about...Consumer Reports. I have
read their reviews on laundry machines, and it is as if they don't
really know what they are talking about. For example, they rated the
Calypso washer, one of the worst designs of all time, very highly
until the bitter end. Instead of rating model numbers, which change
at the designer's whim, they really should rate platforms, the
building foundation of all machines. Here are the only platforms that
exist on domestic machines, both in traditional and non-standard
agitator (NSA) designs:

Whirlpool top loader and Cabrio NSA
Whirlpool Duet full size front loader and the smaller Sport (which is
slightly different from Duet)
GE top loader, and GE NSA (I forget the name of this).
Frigidaire top loader and front loader

This pretty much covers the entire field of washers. All other brands
are just brand-engineered on these platforms. For example, the GE
front loader sold at Home Depot is made by Frigidaire. All Kenmore
machines are covered in the list above. All Maytag machines are
rebadged Whirlpool machines, Amana and other Maytag brands too.

Odds and ends...There is a larger GE front loader rebadged from Asia,
Korea I think. Don't know if this is currently on the market. There
was an interim Maytag front load washer from Korea as well, marketed
after the Maytag Neptune, until Whirlpool bought Maytag, then it was
deleted.



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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

AE Todd wrote:

Here are the only platforms that
exist on domestic machines, both in traditional and non-standard
agitator (NSA) designs:

Whirlpool top loader and Cabrio NSA
Whirlpool Duet full size front loader and the smaller Sport (which is
slightly different from Duet)
GE top loader, and GE NSA (I forget the name of this).
Frigidaire top loader and front loader


Have any thoughts on the LG or Samsung washers?

And...what's your opinion on the design of the Fisher
Paykel top loader? Good Bad?
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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

the plain old style top load water wasters tend to be highly reliable
and low cost.

so a front load saves 20 bucks a year in water, in 10 years thats 200
bucks.

but rather than pay 400 bucks for a top load you spent 900 bucks on a
front load.

you will never see a savings from a front load they are a marketing
gimmick

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" wrote:

the plain old style top load water wasters tend to be highly reliable
and low cost.


more reliable than front loaders over all, right?
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Ours paid for itself in the first year. In water savings alone. Wish we'd
had it 20 yrs ago when the kids were here. And we have cheap water rates.

--
Steve Barker







wrote in message
oups.com...
the plain old style top load water wasters tend to be highly reliable
and low cost.

so a front load saves 20 bucks a year in water, in 10 years thats 200
bucks.

but rather than pay 400 bucks for a top load you spent 900 bucks on a
front load.

you will never see a savings from a front load they are a marketing
gimmick



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On Jun 29, 11:05?pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
Ours paid for itself in the first year. In water savings alone. Wish we'd
had it 20 yrs ago when the kids were here. And we have cheap water rates.

--
Steve Barker

wrote in message

oups.com...



the plain old style top load water wasters tend to be highly reliable
and low cost.


so a front load saves 20 bucks a year in water, in 10 years thats 200
bucks.


but rather than pay 400 bucks for a top load you spent 900 bucks on a
front load.


you will never see a savings from a front load they are a marketing
gimmick- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


please provide some numbers to back up the savings. lets assume you
paid a grand for the front load and could of bought a top load water
waster for 500 bucks.

so how did you save 500 bucks in water and sewer in one year?



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Ok, comments about LG and Samsung, along with front load economics in
general...

If you want to buy a machine that nobody knows how to fix, where the
manufacturer has made no effort to educate US servicers in general,
where parts are difficult to identify and locate, then LG and Samsung
are your best choice. Also, you might want to choose Fisher and
Paykel. As far as durability of these brands, they probably differ
little from their US counterparts. However, there really is no need
to go international. Domestic brands are just fine, and if you really
want a F/P style agitator, you can choose the Whirlpool Cabrio which,
IIRC, uses F/P technology anyway. Are you mesmerized by steam? It
is a gimmick. Nobody will ever know your garment was steamed, even
you.

The movement of the appliance industry in general is toward machines
that are so highly electronic and highly complicated, that only the
largest service outfits will have the deep pockets to offer service on
your machine, and the independents will slowly fade away. Let's say
you have a $1k washer, and it is broken and no particular component
presents itself as the exact problem. Now, which servicer will take
the risk to install a $250 board or $375 motor in it to see if they
can bring it back to life? No small servicer will stock those parts
or take the risk of being wrong. They'll be relegated to the simpler
machines, while all the popular ones with all the bells and whistles
will be left to the big boys.

Regarding the economics of front loaders, I would agree that there is
a very long breakeven point for these machines. Don't buy one for the
energy or water savings, unless you live where there is no water.
Probably the best reason to buy a front loader is if you want to
install it right out there so that your friends and neighbors can see
it. They'll be impressed, and you'll feel really good about yourself.

This is my dream, to take my 2k which I would use to buy a front
loader set, and buy 3 regular washers, and 3 regular dryers, and then
build a laundromat in my home, and do an entire week of laundry in an
hour.

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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

Oh, a little more about the F/P...I think that it and the Cabrio will
be the next Calypso, but we'll have to wait a few more years to find
out. Generally, NSA machines have dubious cleanability profiles, and
people say they twist and tear clothing. Typicall NSA machines have
greater pump problems. You'll have to decide for yourself to see if
it is worth it. Don't forget, NSA machines can have the same mildew/
odor issues as a front loader, since both are low water machines.

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AE Todd wrote:

This is my dream, to take my 2k which I would use to buy a front
loader set, and buy 3 regular washers, and 3 regular dryers, and then
build a laundromat in my home, and do an entire week of laundry in an
hour.


HAhaha!

Good one. Thanks for the laugh!
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AE Todd wrote:

If you want to buy a machine that nobody knows how to fix, where the
manufacturer has made no effort to educate US servicers in general,
where parts are difficult to identify and locate, then LG and Samsung
are your best choice.



OK..... so what "design" do you feel is the most
robust? Do you feel it is still the standard top
loader agitator design that had been in use for years?
It sound like your are nor sold on front loaders nor or
you sold on FP type designs (Cabrio)

Also, what is an "NSA" machine?

Thanks for all your help!
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AE Todd wrote:

Here are the only platforms that
exist on domestic machines, both in traditional and non-standard
agitator (NSA) designs:


Ooops.. never mind I know what NSA means now


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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

In answer to your question, a washer doesn't have to be "robust" to
clean your clothes. A Whirlpool washer with a regular agitator,
little electronics or other bells and whistles, is just fine. They
are easy to repair, service and parts are readily available.

Front loaders have their own repair profile. I am not suggesting that
one not buy one, but to accept the idea that those problems can't be
avoided just because the machine was expensive; saying to your
repairman, "I spent a thousand dollars on this machine and I think it
should have lasted longer" won't have much impact, because he doesn't
really care.


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AE Todd wrote:

In answer to your question, a washer doesn't have to be "robust" to
clean your clothes. A Whirlpool washer with a regular agitator,
little electronics or other bells and whistles, is just fine. They
are easy to repair, service and parts are readily available.


I meant "robust" in term of reliable..... not
complicated or fancy
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responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...io-228602-.htm
biguggy wrote:

Why is anyone surprised that bearings fail in these machines?
I have serious reservations about the adequacy of these bearing
arrangements with out taking into account the following
The spiders in these machines are manufactured from aluminium alloys,
which are capable of being corroded by almost all laundry aids used,
including HE detergent, should the required concentrations be reached. The
product of this corrosion is aluminium oxide, the same very hard gritty
‘stuff’ that is the ‘grit’ on the orange coloured sandpaper. Now most of
this aluminium oxide will adhere, very strongly, to the spider: A very
small percentage will be dissolved in the ‘water’ and some will be carried
in suspension in the ‘water’ making a very effective grinding paste. In my
opinion the soft lips of the shaft seal stand very little chance once this
occurs with the result that the seal fails allowing ‘water’ into the
bearings which destroys the bearings in two ways, the normal corrosion of
steel in water and the added destructive power of the ‘grit’ abrading the
bearings.

Many posts on many sites claim that the corrosion of the spiders is due to
galvanic action. I do not agree, I believe it is primarily chemical
corrosion.

Should the corrosion have been galvanic between the stainless steel drum
and the aluminium spider the majority of the corrosion would have been at
the junction of the two metals i.e. at the ends of the arms. I have seen
no photographs of spiders corroded in such a manner, nor read of any
similar descriptions.

Aluminium, and its alloys are corroded when immersed in an aqueous
solution with a pH value above about 8.0 or below about 4.0 (nitric acid
is a well known exception). All detergents have to be above about 8.0 or
they would not work. The Material Safety Data Sheets put out by Proctor
and Gamble state that the pH for one of the liquid ‘Tides’ is 8.0 and for
one of the ‘Tide’ powdered detergents as 11.0. Bleach, (sodium
hypochlorite) is also very corrosive to aluminium. I should add that for
corrosion of the spider to take place these levels are considerably above
the levels found in a washing machine during the wash/rinse phases of the
cycle.

Sodium carbonate (washing soda) and sodium percarbonate found in some
laundry aids (Affresh and Oxi-Clean [powder]) are also corrosive to
aluminium, as is borax, provided the required concentrations are reached.

I believe the mechanics of the corrosion are as follows.
Even after the fastest spin small quantities of water will remain on the
shaft and towards the centre of the spider. Any recesses in the spider
close to the centre will aggravate this situation. This water will contain
‘contaminants’, unused detergents and other laundry aids used, soil from
the laundry, products of the reactions between the laundry aids used and
the soil from the laundry, chemicals contained in the tap water used and
the products of any reactions between these chemicals, the soil and the
laundry aids used. Should sufficient of these ‘contaminants’ be present
the pH of the mixture can, as evaporation takes place, rise to a level
where corrosion will take place.

Corroded spiders can be seen at: -

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/28/fr...tallic-misery/

http://softsolder.wordpress.com/2010...-drum-the-rot/
for a LG spider
http://www.viewpoints.com/LG-TROMM-F...-review-33dc10

For information on galvanic corrosion there is a very good paper at: -
http://www.unene.ca/un1001/UN1001_Ga...0Corrosion.ppt

For information on chemical corrosion of aluminium (or ‘micro galvanic
corrosion as the author calls it, I grew up calling it ‘pitting corrosion)
there is an informative paper at:
-http://www.sintef.no/static/mt/norlight/seminars/norlight2003/Postere/Gaute%20Svenningsen.pdf


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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class actionsuit on this machine!

On 06/18/11 07:31 am, biguggy wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...io-228602-.htm
biguggy wrote:

Why is anyone surprised that bearings fail in these machines?


snip

This a rather old thread to which you are responding, but I'll throw in
my 2 cents' worth.

We've had ours for about 9 years, averaging two or three loads a week,
and it's been noisy for the last several years. When it was still in
warranty the controller failed and was replaced free, and I asked the
service guy about the reports I had heard of bearing failure. He said it
was usually caused by using non-HE detergent and that replacement of the
whole drum assembly was a 2-person 4-hour job -- no bearings available
separately -- costing big bucks. I have since read that bearings are
available but not from Sears. If ours quits I may still try to fix it
myself, as we have the dryer stacked above it and that dryer might not
fit a different washer.

My major gripe concerning this washer was that when it was delivered
they took the shipping braces away with them although the user manual
says to keep them in case the machine needs to be moved again -- and
when we did move I had to *buy* a new set of shipping braces. I
mentioned this to our friendly Sears person in our new location, and she
said not leaving them behind was common practice and that I probably was
the only person who had ever read the part in the manual about keeping them.

Perce
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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...io-228602-.htm
biguggy wrote:

I know it is an elderly thread but it is still, in my opinion, a valid
subject. To my knowledge Sears were still selling machines with the same
part number inner tub and spiders in May of 2010 as the ones sold in 2001.
So the same failures can be expected to keep occurring for a while yet.
Assuming that you have a ‘Kenmore’ 417 or 970 (the Canadian variant), or a
Frigidaire, or even a GE (the same machine was marketed, with minor
differences but the ‘guts’ were/are the same by all three companies).
For my two cents worth, if I were you I would get at your machine before
more damage is done. The more the bearings ‘wear’ the greater will be the
‘run-out’ of the inner tub with respect to the outer tub. This will allow
the screws securing the baffles or vanes in the inner drum to score,
perhaps to perforation, the outer drum. Additionally even if your spider
currently has little or no corrosion it is likely to be ‘toast’ because
the sleeve on which the shaft seal runs is likely now scored or grooved to
such an extend that it would be a very unwise to re-use it with a new seal.
A cheaper repair for you, should you have access to a Sears parts
warehouse in Canada is to get the ‘tub kit’, part number 970 134453200 for
C$229.00 (last quoted to me in March of this year) plus S&H plus taxes,
which includes inner and outer drums complete with spider, seals, bearings
and pulley. Sears at the same time quoted me C$259.00 for just the inner
tub and spider, go figure. Unfortunately the ‘tub kit’ is not available in
the USA.






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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

I worked for Shears, four weks and two days. I was horrified
by what I saw. I'd not want to buy anything from them.
Sadly, they do make nice Craftsman tools.

I got a call last year, from some folks with a noisy front
loader. The part at the parts house was about $300 and I
didn't know it was a two man, all day job. As with John
Deere "permanant lube" joints and knuckles, someone came out
with a grease gun syringe needle device. I'm sure some one
will come out with a lube system for these.

Sorry about the shipping braces. Typical Shears service.

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Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...

This a rather old thread to which you are responding, but
I'll throw in
my 2 cents' worth...

We've had ours for about 9 years, averaging two or three
loads a week,
and it's been noisy for the last several years. When it was
still in
warranty the controller failed and was replaced free, and I
asked the
service guy about the reports I had heard of bearing
failure. He said it
was usually caused by using non-HE detergent and that
replacement of the
whole drum assembly was a 2-person 4-hour job -- no bearings
available
separately -- costing big bucks. I have since read that
bearings are
available but not from Sears. If ours quits I may still try
to fix it
myself, as we have the dryer stacked above it and that dryer
might not
fit a different washer.

My major gripe concerning this washer was that when it was
delivered
they took the shipping braces away with them although the
user manual
says to keep them in case the machine needs to be moved
again -- and
when we did move I had to *buy* a new set of shipping
braces. I
mentioned this to our friendly Sears person in our new
location, and she
said not leaving them behind was common practice and that I
probably was
the only person who had ever read the part in the manual
about keeping them.

Perce



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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

Stormin Mormon wrote:

....


Sadly, they do make nice Craftsman tools.

....



Went thru this here just a couple days ago--Sears _MAKES_ nothing; they
own and retail several brands manufactured on contract for them; Kenmore
and Craftsman the two largest...

--

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responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...io-228602-.htm
biguggy wrote:

You are quite correct.
The subject of this thread is the 'Kenmore 417' and I was just pointing
out that the same basic machines, all built by 'Frigidaire (Electrolux),
are/were marketed, by Sears, Frigidaire and GE. The majority of the parts
being interchangeable

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My model 418.431xxxxx spider assy failed. Can only repair by replacing entire drum assy. Item 16 in the installation manual and parts list. Roughly $350. You can buy just the spider.

According to page 2 of the sears guide that came with washer states unlimited lifetime warranty on the steel basket drum.. Which is according sears documentation is one unit.

I going to sears warranty to force the issue for and entire assy or sell me the spider itself. Can purchase spider in UK with warning its not intended for USA models. Garbage protection I bet to keep prices up here.

Wish me luck.
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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class action suit on this machine!

replying to biguggy, Jay wrote:
You missed one point about galvanic corrosion of the alloy spiders. The
corrosion is occurring where the aluminum spider is attached to the mild steel
shaft at the center of the spider and not the stainless drum. Had the spindle
been constructed of the same grade stainless, the al alloy might not fail at
all. I am sure that the spindle is mild steel after reusing it when I
fabricated a new spider for my machine. My new spider is entirely constructed
of stainless with the exception of the reused spindle.

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Default Kenmore 417 front loader washer: There should be class actionsuit on this machine!

You should have bought a Speed Queen.
I repair washers and dryers and Speed Queen is the best.
No I don't work work for Speed Queen.
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On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 21:49:38 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote in


You should have bought a Speed Queen.
I repair washers and dryers and Speed Queen is the best.
No I don't work work for Speed Queen.


How does Maytag compare to Speed Queen and Kenmore in your opinion?
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Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
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On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 21:49:38 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown wrote:

You should have bought a Speed Queen.
I repair washers and dryers and Speed Queen is the best.
No I don't work work for Speed Queen.


Nobody cares what you think. Besides, the message you're replying to is nearly a decade old.
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replying to me, Jim Morrow wrote:
True, a class action suit is needed for this model. Mine was 2-3 years old the
1st time it failed and it was from a known issue with the bottom shocks
failing which caused a chain of failures. As of today it simply stopped
working, finis5 a load and started another only it did not work, dead nothing.

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On Monday, June 25, 2007 at 2:19:45 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I bought a brand new Kenmore front loader washer in
2000. It was the model number that started with 417
xxxx.

I live alone, so only do maybe one load a week, very
light usage for a washer

After 7 years of light use the main bearing of this
machine failed. The seal failed and all the internal
lube as slung out over inside of machine.

To make matters worse, the main bearing is integral to
the tub which means that one must buy a whole new tub
assembly to replace only that main bearing!

Just wondering if anyone lese has been stung with this
washer and what they've done abt it?


`We have the same model bought in 2001 still running with no issues same with the dryer posted 12.26.18
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