I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning the
timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing - there is
no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I checked the
fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just the same I went
ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still nothing.

I have a volage sensor that detects voltage in 110V power cords, e.g.
the washer cord - I presume it ought to sense it in a 220V cord, but
don't really know if it works the same way on 220. If it does, there
is no current in the dryer cord - which tells me it should be either
the receptacle or the fuse.

Problem is, the fuse box isn't labeled, and I don't know which fuse
goes to the dryer. There are 20, 40 (2-20's) and 100 (2-50's) amp (?)
fuses in there - is there a standard which would indicate to me it
could be attached to the dryer receptacle?

I hate to call an electrician for a simple problem, but 220V scares
the crap out of me - I'm barely conversant in 110V!

TIA - Laurie

Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning the
timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing - there is
no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I checked the
fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just the same I went
ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot contacts
should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts between the hot
contacts.

The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged together.
If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has two fuses.
Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often, dryers are
protected with two plug fuses in a separate enclosure with a big on-off
lever on the outside.

Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning the
timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing - there is
no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I checked the
fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just the same I
went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot contacts
should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts between the hot
contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what it shows.


The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has
two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often,
dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate enclosure with
a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry. Toller said
it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just 20's, 2-20's together (is
"ganged" the right word?) and then 50's and 2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the garage
that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see anything.

On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning the
timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing - there is
no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I checked the
fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just the same I
went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot contacts
should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts between the hot
contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what it shows.


The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has
two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often,
dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate enclosure with
a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry. Toller said
it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just 20's, 2-20's together (is
"ganged" the right word?) and then 50's and 2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the garage
that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see anything.


If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.

Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:


Bob wrote:

Laurie wrote:

I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning the
timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing - there is
no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I checked the
fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just the same I
went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot contacts
should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts between the hot
contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what it shows.


The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has
two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often,
dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate enclosure with
a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry. Toller said
it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just 20's, 2-20's together (is
"ganged" the right word?) and then 50's and 2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the garage
that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see anything.



If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.
Hi,
When a breaker trips, it is not easy to find it. Usually the breaker
handle is sitting in between on and off position. You reset it by
turning it of and back to on. I'd find a correct breaker, reset it, and
try the dryer again. If breaker trips again, most likely the problem is
with the dryer. Calling an electrician of appliance repair tech, you
have 50-50 chance being right. Eh=ither one can tell you if the problem
belongs to the other. Do you have a multimeter?
Good luck.

Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning
the timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing -
there is no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I
checked the fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just
the same I went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still
nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot
contacts should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts
between the hot contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what it
shows.


The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has
two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often,
dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate enclosure
with a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry.
Toller said it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just 20's,
2-20's together (is "ganged" the right word?) and then 50's and
2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the
garage that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see anything.


If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.

I have one, just reading the directions on how to use it. :-) Thanks -
bottom line, that's what I was trying to decide - appliance repair vs.
electrician and now I feel confident enough to test the receptacle to see if
it's working or not - and then call the one or the other depending on how it
turns out!

Tony Hwang wrote:
Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:


Bob wrote:

Laurie wrote:

I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning
the timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing -
there is no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on.
I checked the fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but
just the same I went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still
nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot
contacts should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts
between the hot contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what
it shows.
The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has
two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often,
dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate
enclosure with a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry. Toller
said it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just
20's, 2-20's together (is "ganged" the right word?) and then 50's
and 2-50's. I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate
in the
garage that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see
anything.


If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.
Hi,
When a breaker trips, it is not easy to find it. Usually the breaker
handle is sitting in between on and off position. You reset it by
turning it of and back to on. I'd find a correct breaker, reset it,
and try the dryer again. If breaker trips again, most likely the
problem is with the dryer. Calling an electrician of appliance repair
tech, you have 50-50 chance being right. Eh=ither one can tell you if
the problem belongs to the other. Do you have a multimeter?
Good luck.

LOL - I was just trying to improve my odds of calling the right one first!
I flipped all the breakers already and the dryer didn't come back on, so I'm
thinking it's not the dryer (unless it's the pigtail which an Amana guy on
an appliance group told me it is possible the pigtail can go out, although
it's not common) I actually DO have a multimeter! I bought a nice little
Greenlee kit when I bought this house for basic electrical - I just wasn't
anxious to stick the leasds into anything OTHER than a basic electrical
outlet! I'm reading the manual on it now - but I'm pretty sure I'm going
with the electrician first from what I've gathered here. Thanks for the
info!

On Jun 24, 9:48 pm, "Laurie" wrote:
Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning
the timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing -
there is no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I
checked the fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just
the same I went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still
nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot
contacts should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts
between the hot contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what it
shows.

The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has
two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often,
dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate enclosure
with a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry.
Toller said it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just 20's,
2-20's together (is "ganged" the right word?) and then 50's and
2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the
garage that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see anything.

If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.

I have one, just reading the directions on how to use it. :-) Thanks -
bottom line, that's what I was trying to decide - appliance repair vs.
electrician and now I feel confident enough to test the receptacle to see if
it's working or not - and then call the one or the other depending on how it
turns out!

Take your tester and try it on a regular receptacle. Put the tester
on AC Volts using the highest setting you have. You should get 120V.

When you test the dryer outlet it should be 240V. If you have 240V
then you should call a repairman. If you don't have 240V then call an
electrician.

Terry wrote:
On Jun 24, 9:48 pm, "Laurie" wrote:
Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning
the timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing -
there is no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on.
I checked the fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but
just the same I went ahead and flipped them all off and on.
Still nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot
contacts should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts
between the hot contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what
it shows.

The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder
has two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter.
Often, dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate
enclosure with a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry.
Toller said it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just
20's, 2-20's together (is "ganged" the right word?) and then 50's
and 2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the
garage that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see
anything.

If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.

I have one, just reading the directions on how to use it. :-) Thanks
- bottom line, that's what I was trying to decide - appliance repair
vs. electrician and now I feel confident enough to test the
receptacle to see if it's working or not - and then call the one or
the other depending on how it turns out!

Take your tester and try it on a regular receptacle. Put the tester
on AC Volts using the highest setting you have. You should get 120V.

When you test the dryer outlet it should be 240V. If you have 240V
then you should call a repairman. If you don't have 240V then call an
electrician.

The multimeter went up to 400V, so I did test a regular outlet first to be
sure I was using the multimeter correctly - and I got 119.6 - so I was
confident it was working and accurate. I got nothing at the 240V outlet -
the leads are pretty short though, so I'm not 100% sure I made contact, but
I'm convinced enough to go ahead and call the electrician first.

Thanks to all for the assistance and education!

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 16:50:35 -0700, Laurie
wrote:

I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning the
timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing - there is
no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I checked the
fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just the same I went
ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still nothing.

I have a volage sensor that detects voltage in 110V power cords, e.g.

In this line you refer to voltage, twice.

the washer cord - I presume it ought to sense it in a 220V cord, but
don't really know if it works the same way on 220. If it does, there
is no current in the dryer cord - which tells me it should be either

In this line, you refer to current. Which one do you mean?

the receptacle or the fuse.

Which one is the sensor supposed to sense? There are different kinds
of sensors.

Did you know that you can have voltage without current?

You still don't know if the problem is in the dryer, the breaker, or
the wiring.

Do you have a voltmeter or a multimeter with an AC voltage range of
250 volts or more? Can you unplug the dryer? Can you move the dryer
and then, without touching anything metal, unplug the dryer and put
the 2 meter probes into the slots of the dryer receptacle and see if
any pair of two slots shows 220 to 240 volts AC?

If you get 220, then you know there is a problem in the dryer.

If you get 220 nowhere, then put the two probes into the two slots of
a 110 receptacle and see if the meter reads 110. If it does, then you
know that you don't have 220 coming from the wall. If it doesn't,
you have a bad meter or it is not set by you to measure 220V AC.

Problem is, the fuse box isn't labeled, and I don't know which fuse
goes to the dryer. There are 20, 40 (2-20's) and 100 (2-50's) amp (?)

You have two 20's, but you don't have a 40. First because no one
would call two 20's on the same circuit a 40, and second because it
will trip if you go over 20 amps. The same 20 amps goes through both
breakers.

fuses in there - is there a standard which would indicate to me it
could be attached to the dryer receptacle?

Because all the full size dryers are 220, it's one of the doubles.

I hate to call an electrician for a simple problem, but 220V scares
the crap out of me - I'm barely conversant in 110V!

It seems here like you do want to fix it yourself.

TIA - Laurie

Meat Plow wrote:
Call an electrician before you kill yourself.

You wrote:
Have a problem with women do we? I'm not an idiot, but thanks for your
profound advice.

He said nothing about women. You're new here, aren't you? How do you
know he doesn't treat everyone this way?

Plus you started it when you said that 220v scares the crap out of
you, plus the mistakes you made in the description of the problem. I
don't mind feminism or whatever, but crying anti-woman for no good
reason discredits feminisim or whatever, and it's like crying wolf.
When there is a real femininist or whatever issue, no one will take
you seriously.

Why did you play the gender card for no reason?

On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 01:48:26 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning
the timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing -
there is no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I
checked the fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just
the same I went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still
nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot
contacts should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts
between the hot contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what it
shows.


The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder has
two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter. Often,
dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate enclosure
with a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry.
Toller said it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just 20's,
2-20's together (is "ganged" the right word?) and then 50's and
2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the
garage that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see anything.


If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.

I have one, just reading the directions on how to use it. :-) Thanks -
bottom line, that's what I was trying to decide - appliance repair vs.
electrician and now I feel confident enough to test the receptacle to see if
it's working or not - and then call the one or the other depending on how it
turns out!

Sounds as though the drive belt broke on your dryer, this will release
a switch and you will get those symtoms. You should have a small
access panel on the rear that when removed will alow you to see the
works. Jesse

Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 02:43:38 +0000, Laurie wrote:

SNIP
I'm convinced enough to go ahead and call the electrician first.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!

After all your insults to me you finally saw the light.

It was never about if I should call someone, it was who I should call. Now I
feel as though I'm making a more educated decision rather than just blindly
following your advice, however right it may (or may not) be.

I prefer to use usenet to exchange information, educating and learning as I
go. You obviously use it for something else.

Jesse wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 01:48:26 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning
the timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing -
there is no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on.
I checked the fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but
just the same I went ahead and flipped them all off and on.
Still nothing.

In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot
contacts should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts
between the hot contacts.

Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what
it shows.


The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder
has two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter.
Often, dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate
enclosure with a big on-off lever on the outside.

I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry.
Toller said it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just
20's, 2-20's together (is "ganged" the right word?) and then 50's
and 2-50's.

I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the
garage that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see
anything.


If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.

You can make sure with a voltage tester first.

I have one, just reading the directions on how to use it. :-) Thanks
- bottom line, that's what I was trying to decide - appliance repair
vs. electrician and now I feel confident enough to test the
receptacle to see if it's working or not - and then call the one or
the other depending on how it turns out!

Sounds as though the drive belt broke on your dryer, this will release
a switch and you will get those symtoms. You should have a small
access panel on the rear that when removed will alow you to see the
works. Jesse

Thanks Jesse - I'm sure I have the booklet for the dryer around somewhere or
can find it online. I'll look into that drive belt!

mm wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 16:50:35 -0700, Laurie
wrote:

I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning the
timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing - there is
no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on. I checked the
fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but just the same I
went ahead and flipped them all off and on. Still nothing.

I have a volage sensor that detects voltage in 110V power cords, e.g.

In this line you refer to voltage, twice.

the washer cord - I presume it ought to sense it in a 220V cord, but
don't really know if it works the same way on 220. If it does, there
is no current in the dryer cord - which tells me it should be either

In this line, you refer to current. Which one do you mean?

the receptacle or the fuse.

Which one is the sensor supposed to sense? There are different kinds
of sensors.

It is a voltage sensor.

Did you know that you can have voltage without current?

Apparently not! ;-)


You still don't know if the problem is in the dryer, the breaker, or
the wiring.

Rats. Just when I was thinking I was moving ahead here...

Do you have a voltmeter or a multimeter with an AC voltage range of
250 volts or more? Can you unplug the dryer? Can you move the dryer
and then, without touching anything metal, unplug the dryer and put
the 2 meter probes into the slots of the dryer receptacle and see if
any pair of two slots shows 220 to 240 volts AC?

Yes, it was a multimeter with a 400v range - see my post to Terry at 9:34 -
that was exactly what I did (and thank you for the very elementary
explanation - when I'm learning something new that there's nothing at all
wrong with as many single syllable words as possible in the explanation!
:-))

If you get 220, then you know there is a problem in the dryer.

If you get 220 nowhere, then put the two probes into the two slots of
a 110 receptacle and see if the meter reads 110. If it does, then you
know that you don't have 220 coming from the wall. If it doesn't,
you have a bad meter or it is not set by you to measure 220V AC.

Problem is, the fuse box isn't labeled, and I don't know which fuse
goes to the dryer. There are 20, 40 (2-20's) and 100 (2-50's) amp
(?)

You have two 20's, but you don't have a 40. First because no one
would call two 20's on the same circuit a 40, and second because it
will trip if you go over 20 amps. The same 20 amps goes through both
breakers.

OK - thanks - I'm learning as I go, which would be why I put the question
mark to indicate my uncertainty. That would be a whole 'nother thread if I
asked why use two 20 amp breakers if the same 20 amps goes through both! :-)


fuses in there - is there a standard which would indicate to me it
could be attached to the dryer receptacle?

Because all the full size dryers are 220, it's one of the doubles.

That's kind of what I figured...

I hate to call an electrician for a simple problem, but 220V scares
the crap out of me - I'm barely conversant in 110V!

It seems here like you do want to fix it yourself.

I was trying to decide if I wanted to call an electrician or if it was on
the dryer side (might have tried to fix a dryer problem if I had some idea
where to start).

TIA - Laurie

Meat Plow wrote:
Call an electrician before you kill yourself.

You wrote:
Have a problem with women do we? I'm not an idiot, but thanks for
your profound advice.

He said nothing about women. You're new here, aren't you? How do you
know he doesn't treat everyone this way?

I am new here, but no usenet newbie, and I did look through history to see
who he replied to and how. His posts appeared to be generally terse but
respectful, occasionally informative, unlike his response to me.

Plus you started it when you said that 220v scares the crap out of
you, plus the mistakes you made in the description of the problem. I
don't mind feminism or whatever, but crying anti-woman for no good
reason discredits feminisim or whatever, and it's like crying wolf.
When there is a real femininist or whatever issue, no one will take
you seriously.

Why did you play the gender card for no reason?

I rarely use the gender card. I have no problem declaring my ignorance in
things electrical but lately have been learning some basics for a few
repairs such as replacing light fixtures, outlets and switches without
having to call in an electrician. That was why I came here - to ask for new
information, which I received. Ignorance in posting cries out for
education, which you and others went ahead and provided and I appreciate.

I felt there was sufficient indication to play the gender card as IMO it
seemed the most logical explanation for the reply.

Laurie wrote:
Terry wrote:
On Jun 24, 9:48 pm, "Laurie" wrote:
Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:53:42 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:
Bob wrote:
Laurie wrote:
I have an Amana dryer on a 220V 3-prong receptacle. I was turning
the timer dial and suddenly there was a pop! and then nothing -
there is no power at the dryer - the light doesn't even come on.
I checked the fuse box and rthere were no tripped breakers, but
just the same I went ahead and flipped them all off and on.
Still nothing.
In simple terms a 240 volt 3-wire circuit consists of two 120 volt
circuits with opposite polarity. The L-shaped contact is both the
neutral and ground. Measuring from there to each of the hot
contacts should show 120 volts, and there should be 240 volts
between the hot contacts.
Great - that makes sense and is helpful. I will check to see what
it shows.
The fuses or breakers for this outlet should somehow be ganged
together. If cartridge fuses are used, typically the fuseholder
has two fuses. Pull it out and check the fuses with an ohmmeter.
Often, dryers are protected with two plug fuses in a separate
enclosure with a big on-off lever on the outside.
I used the term fuse when I should have said breaker - sorry.
Toller said it should be a 30a - don't have one of those, just
20's, 2-20's together (is "ganged" the right word?) and then 50's
and 2-50's.
I appreciate the help. I was looking for something separate in the
garage that might control the dryer circuit, but didn't see
anything.
If all the breakers are on, it sounds like the problem is in your
dryer. Call an appliance repairman.
You can make sure with a voltage tester first.
I have one, just reading the directions on how to use it. :-) Thanks
- bottom line, that's what I was trying to decide - appliance repair
vs. electrician and now I feel confident enough to test the
receptacle to see if it's working or not - and then call the one or
the other depending on how it turns out!
Take your tester and try it on a regular receptacle. Put the tester
on AC Volts using the highest setting you have. You should get 120V.

When you test the dryer outlet it should be 240V. If you have 240V
then you should call a repairman. If you don't have 240V then call an
electrician.

The multimeter went up to 400V, so I did test a regular outlet first to be
sure I was using the multimeter correctly - and I got 119.6 - so I was
confident it was working and accurate. I got nothing at the 240V outlet -
the leads are pretty short though, so I'm not 100% sure I made contact, but
I'm convinced enough to go ahead and call the electrician first.


You are doing fine. You may be right that the probes don't reach the
contacts in the outlet. But you also used a voltage tester. If the
voltage tester detects on the cord of another piece of equipment (it
works), but not on the dryer cord, the circuit is probably dead.
Sometimes you have to push a circuit breaker handle fairly hard to the
off position to reset it. The question remains what produced the "pop"
and why the circuit is dead (if it is dead).

--
bud--

On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 13:48:41 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Yes, it was a multimeter with a 400v range - see my post to Terry at 9:34 -

I saw that later.

That might even have been before I posted, but like most people, I
retrieve usenet posts in batch, so that it can be a while after
retrieving before I read a post, and longer to repply, during which
there are new posts I ahven't retrieved yet.I can be finishing a post

that was exactly what I did (and thank you for the very elementary
explanation - when I'm learning something new that there's nothing at all
wrong with as many single syllable words as possible in the explanation!
:-))

You wrote:
Have a problem with women do we? I'm not an idiot, but thanks for
your profound advice.

He said nothing about women. You're new here, aren't you? How do you
know he doesn't treat everyone this way?

I am new here, but no usenet newbie, and I did look through history to see
who he replied to and how. His posts appeared to be generally terse but
respectful, occasionally informative, unlike his response to me.

Not always repsectful. I even had him plonked for a few weeks. (The
only one I can remember unplonking.)

Plus you started it when you said that 220v scares the crap out of
you, plus the mistakes you made in the description of the problem. I
don't mind feminism or whatever, but crying anti-woman for no good
reason discredits feminisim or whatever, and it's like crying wolf.
When there is a real femininist or whatever issue, no one will take
you seriously.

Why did you play the gender card for no reason?

I rarely use the gender card. I have no problem declaring my ignorance in
things electrical but lately have been learning some basics for a few
repairs such as replacing light fixtures, outlets and switches without
having to call in an electrician. That was why I came here - to ask for new
information, which I received. Ignorance in posting cries out for
education, which you and others went ahead and provided and I appreciate.

I felt there was sufficient indication to play the gender card as IMO it
seemed the most logical explanation for the reply.

Nope. He said nothing about women. And there are lots of people here
who tell people to call electricians, often rudely, male or female.
It depends on a lot of things, including how they ask the questions.

Even if perchance you were right, it looks like you weren't.

"Laurie" writes:
mm wrote:

You have two 20's, but you don't have a 40. First because no one
would call two 20's on the same circuit a 40, and second because it
will trip if you go over 20 amps. The same 20 amps goes through both
breakers.

OK - thanks - I'm learning as I go, which would be why I put the question
mark to indicate my uncertainty. That would be a whole 'nother thread if I
asked why use two 20 amp breakers if the same 20 amps goes through both! :-)

That's actually a pretty subtle side effect of the way that North
American single-phase circuits are wired.

On a 120 V circuit, you have "hot" and "neutral" wires. The difference
between these is that the "neutral" one is connected to ground at some
point, and will be at the same voltage as ground when no current is
flowing. The current in the "hot" wire is monitored by the circuit
breaker, and if it trips, then there should be no voltage present in the
circuit at all. So a single breaker is enough.

In Europe, electricity is supplied as 220-240V with two wires (not
counting ground), and one end of the transformer secondary is connected
to ground. So again there are "hot" and "neutral" wires to each load,
and only a single-pole circuit breaker is needed to protect each
circuit in their 240 V system.

But North America doesn't do this. We use 120 V for small appliances
and 240 V for large ones, and in order to supply both voltages the
transformer on the pole is center-tapped. There is 240 V across the
whole winding, and 120 V from either end to the centre. For reasons
that have to do with both safety and reducing the amount of copper
needed, the *centre* of the transformer is grounded, and your house is
supplied with two "hot" wires plus a neutral. Each hot is 120 V to
neutral, but there is 240 V between the two hot wires.

Your dryer may be a pure 240 V type, in which case it uses the 240 V
connection (hot to hot) only, without using neutral at all. In that
case, exactly the same current flows through both sides of your dual
breaker, and you really need only one side to protect against excess
current drawn in the load.

However, that's not the only way to get excess current - you could have
a short circuit. Since both "hot" wires are at 120 V to neutral and
ground, you can get a short circuit from either hot to ground/neutral.
If only one hot wire was protected by a breaker, you would have no
protection against shorts from the other side to ground. You really
need two circuit breakers to protect two hot wires.

In addition, the two breakers are connected so what when one trips, the
other one shuts off as well. This is for safety - to ensure that there
is no voltage present at all when there is a tripped breaker. Shutting
off just one side would not be safe.

Dave

On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 21:40:32 +0000 (UTC), (Dave
Martindale) wrote:

"Laurie" writes:
mm wrote:

You have two 20's, but you don't have a 40. First because no one
would call two 20's on the same circuit a 40, and second because it
will trip if you go over 20 amps. The same 20 amps goes through both
breakers.

OK - thanks - I'm learning as I go, which would be why I put the question
mark to indicate my uncertainty. That would be a whole 'nother thread if I
asked why use two 20 amp breakers if the same 20 amps goes through both! :-)

That's actually a pretty subtle side effect of the way that North
American single-phase circuits are wired.

On a 120 V circuit, you have "hot" and "neutral" wires. The difference
between these is that the "neutral" one is connected to ground at some
point, and will be at the same voltage as ground when no current is
flowing. The current in the "hot" wire is monitored by the circuit
breaker, and if it trips, then there should be no voltage present in the
circuit at all. So a single breaker is enough.

In Europe, electricity is supplied as 220-240V with two wires (not
counting ground), and one end of the transformer secondary is connected
to ground. So again there are "hot" and "neutral" wires to each load,
and only a single-pole circuit breaker is needed to protect each
circuit in their 240 V system.

But North America doesn't do this. We use 120 V for small appliances
and 240 V for large ones, and in order to supply both voltages the
transformer on the pole is center-tapped. There is 240 V across the
whole winding, and 120 V from either end to the centre. For reasons
that have to do with both safety and reducing the amount of copper
needed, the *centre* of the transformer is grounded, and your house is
supplied with two "hot" wires plus a neutral. Each hot is 120 V to
neutral, but there is 240 V between the two hot wires.

Your dryer may be a pure 240 V type, in which case it uses the 240 V
connection (hot to hot) only, without using neutral at all. In that
case, exactly the same current flows through both sides of your dual
breaker, and you really need only one side to protect against excess
current drawn in the load.

However, that's not the only way to get excess current - you could have
a short circuit. Since both "hot" wires are at 120 V to neutral and
ground, you can get a short circuit from either hot to ground/neutral.
If only one hot wire was protected by a breaker, you would have no
protection against shorts from the other side to ground. You really
need two circuit breakers to protect two hot wires.

In addition, the two breakers are connected so what when one trips, the
other one shuts off as well. This is for safety - to ensure that there
is no voltage present at all when there is a tripped breaker. Shutting
off just one side would not be safe.

Dave

All this is interesting and accurate, but I am sure it is way more
than the OP wants to know.

Terry wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 21:40:32 +0000 (UTC), (Dave
Martindale) wrote:

"Laurie" writes:
mm wrote:

You have two 20's, but you don't have a 40. First because no one
would call two 20's on the same circuit a 40, and second because it
will trip if you go over 20 amps. The same 20 amps goes through
both breakers.

OK - thanks - I'm learning as I go, which would be why I put the
question mark to indicate my uncertainty. That would be a whole
'nother thread if I asked why use two 20 amp breakers if the same
20 amps goes through both! :-)

That's actually a pretty subtle side effect of the way that North
American single-phase circuits are wired.

On a 120 V circuit, you have "hot" and "neutral" wires. The
difference between these is that the "neutral" one is connected to
ground at some point, and will be at the same voltage as ground when
no current is flowing. The current in the "hot" wire is monitored
by the circuit breaker, and if it trips, then there should be no
voltage present in the circuit at all. So a single breaker is
enough.

In Europe, electricity is supplied as 220-240V with two wires (not
counting ground), and one end of the transformer secondary is
connected to ground. So again there are "hot" and "neutral" wires
to each load, and only a single-pole circuit breaker is needed to
protect each circuit in their 240 V system.

But North America doesn't do this. We use 120 V for small appliances
and 240 V for large ones, and in order to supply both voltages the
transformer on the pole is center-tapped. There is 240 V across the
whole winding, and 120 V from either end to the centre. For reasons
that have to do with both safety and reducing the amount of copper
needed, the *centre* of the transformer is grounded, and your house
is supplied with two "hot" wires plus a neutral. Each hot is 120 V
to neutral, but there is 240 V between the two hot wires.

Your dryer may be a pure 240 V type, in which case it uses the 240 V
connection (hot to hot) only, without using neutral at all. In that
case, exactly the same current flows through both sides of your dual
breaker, and you really need only one side to protect against excess
current drawn in the load.

However, that's not the only way to get excess current - you could
have a short circuit. Since both "hot" wires are at 120 V to
neutral and ground, you can get a short circuit from either hot to
ground/neutral. If only one hot wire was protected by a breaker, you
would have no protection against shorts from the other side to
ground. You really need two circuit breakers to protect two hot
wires.

In addition, the two breakers are connected so what when one trips,
the other one shuts off as well. This is for safety - to ensure
that there is no voltage present at all when there is a tripped
breaker. Shutting off just one side would not be safe.

Dave

All this is interesting and accurate, but I am sure it is way more
than the OP wants to know.

LOL - I'd rather be overeducated than under, so I'll gratefully accept the
information, although admittedly this is one I'm going to have to print out
and read several more times before I get it! :-D

Dave Martindale wrote:
"Laurie" writes:
mm wrote:

You have two 20's, but you don't have a 40. First because no one
would call two 20's on the same circuit a 40, and second because it
will trip if you go over 20 amps. The same 20 amps goes through
both breakers.

OK - thanks - I'm learning as I go, which would be why I put the
question mark to indicate my uncertainty. That would be a whole
'nother thread if I asked why use two 20 amp breakers if the same 20
amps goes through both! :-)

That's actually a pretty subtle side effect of the way that North
American single-phase circuits are wired.

On a 120 V circuit, you have "hot" and "neutral" wires. The
difference between these is that the "neutral" one is connected to
ground at some point, and will be at the same voltage as ground when
no current is flowing. The current in the "hot" wire is monitored by
the circuit breaker, and if it trips, then there should be no voltage
present in the circuit at all. So a single breaker is enough.

In Europe, electricity is supplied as 220-240V with two wires (not
counting ground), and one end of the transformer secondary is
connected to ground. So again there are "hot" and "neutral" wires to
each load, and only a single-pole circuit breaker is needed to
protect each circuit in their 240 V system.

But North America doesn't do this. We use 120 V for small appliances
and 240 V for large ones, and in order to supply both voltages the
transformer on the pole is center-tapped. There is 240 V across the
whole winding, and 120 V from either end to the centre. For reasons
that have to do with both safety and reducing the amount of copper
needed, the *centre* of the transformer is grounded, and your house is
supplied with two "hot" wires plus a neutral. Each hot is 120 V to
neutral, but there is 240 V between the two hot wires.

Your dryer may be a pure 240 V type, in which case it uses the 240 V
connection (hot to hot) only, without using neutral at all. In that
case, exactly the same current flows through both sides of your dual
breaker, and you really need only one side to protect against excess
current drawn in the load.

However, that's not the only way to get excess current - you could
have a short circuit. Since both "hot" wires are at 120 V to neutral
and ground, you can get a short circuit from either hot to
ground/neutral. If only one hot wire was protected by a breaker, you
would have no protection against shorts from the other side to
ground. You really need two circuit breakers to protect two hot
wires.

In addition, the two breakers are connected so what when one trips,
the other one shuts off as well. This is for safety - to ensure that
there is no voltage present at all when there is a tripped breaker.
Shutting off just one side would not be safe.

Dave

Thanks Dave - LOTS of good info in there that I'm sure answers my question -
but I'm going to have to get out my "idiots guide to electricity" and refer
to it as I read! ;-) Seriously though, I get the general drift of it and
really appreciate the explanation, which I am going to print out and think
on!

mm wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 13:48:41 GMT, "Laurie"
wrote:

Yes, it was a multimeter with a 400v range - see my post to Terry at
9:34 -

I saw that later.

That might even have been before I posted, but like most people, I
retrieve usenet posts in batch, so that it can be a while after
retrieving before I read a post, and longer to repply, during which
there are new posts I ahven't retrieved yet.I can be finishing a post

I didn't think of that - I wasn't trying to be ugly - just figured you might
have looked past that one depending on how you viewed messages. :-) But good
point!

that was exactly what I did (and thank you for the very elementary
explanation - when I'm learning something new that there's nothing
at all wrong with as many single syllable words as possible in the
explanation! :-))

You wrote:
Have a problem with women do we? I'm not an idiot, but thanks for
your profound advice.

He said nothing about women. You're new here, aren't you? How do
you know he doesn't treat everyone this way?

I am new here, but no usenet newbie, and I did look through history
to see who he replied to and how. His posts appeared to be
generally terse but respectful, occasionally informative, unlike his
response to me.

Not always repsectful. I even had him plonked for a few weeks. (The
only one I can remember unplonking.)

*g* well, admittedly, I didn't go back all that far - this is a very active
group, which is pretty cool. In any case - unblocking someone takes a lot
more than to block them in the first place, so that says something...

Plus you started it when you said that 220v scares the crap out of
you, plus the mistakes you made in the description of the problem.
I don't mind feminism or whatever, but crying anti-woman for no good
reason discredits feminisim or whatever, and it's like crying wolf.
When there is a real femininist or whatever issue, no one will take
you seriously.

Why did you play the gender card for no reason?

I rarely use the gender card. I have no problem declaring my
ignorance in things electrical but lately have been learning some
basics for a few repairs such as replacing light fixtures, outlets
and switches without having to call in an electrician. That was why
I came here - to ask for new information, which I received.
Ignorance in posting cries out for education, which you and others
went ahead and provided and I appreciate.

I felt there was sufficient indication to play the gender card as
IMO it seemed the most logical explanation for the reply.

Nope. He said nothing about women. And there are lots of people here
who tell people to call electricians, often rudely, male or female.
It depends on a lot of things, including how they ask the questions.

Even if perchance you were right, it looks like you weren't.

Well, most gender-biased individuals don't outright state it, and there's
really no way to know for sure. However, if I was wrong and Meat Plow
*doesn't* carry a gender bias, I apologize (he and the regulars here would
know) and change my original reply to his post to "thank you for your
opinion". ;-)

Bud-- wrote:
You are doing fine. You may be right that the probes don't reach the
contacts in the outlet. But you also used a voltage tester. If the
voltage tester detects on the cord of another piece of equipment (it
works), but not on the dryer cord, the circuit is probably dead.
Sometimes you have to push a circuit breaker handle fairly hard to the
off position to reset it. The question remains what produced the "pop"
and why the circuit is dead (if it is dead).

Thanks - I'm just jazzed to have, with help, figured out how to use some of
these things to troubleshoot the problem a bit! After all this I'm really
looking forward to the electrician coming out and (I hope) solving a few
mysteries.

I really hope the dryer is still okay - I LOVE this dryer and while it IS
about 8 years old, it was designated "commercial grade" and aside from a
drum problem I had someone out for about 3 years ago, it's been great - I
figured it had several more years left. We'll see!