I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has not
been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I don't
know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

Give it a shot of Graphite and wiggle the key in both directions.

--



BetsyB



"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has
not been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I
don't know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

In article , "Bill Stock" wrote:
I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has not
been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I don't
know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

Boltcutter and a new lock.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has
not been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I
don't know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

I've had good luck flooding seized padlocks with wd-40. And before all the
wd-40 flamers chime in, yes, I did follow that up with silicone spray after
the next trip to hardware store. And yes, a gentle rap with a hammer, and
pushing UP on the lock, sometimes help.

BTW, Master (the brass-key ones, at least) are pretty decent padlocks, beat
the hell out of the cheap imitations. I've never had one outright fail on
me. The no-names at the dollar stores are to be avoided, IMHO.

aem sends....

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

I've had good luck flooding seized padlocks with wd-40. And before all the
wd-40 flamers chime in, yes, I did follow that up with silicone spray after

A can of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster from your local auto parts store
will be far superior to WD-40. WD-40 ain't bad but there is better
stuff available.

Bill Stock wrote:
I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that
has not been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key
now. I don't know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles
are stuck.
What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

Flood it as much as you can with WD-40, tap on the corners with a hammer, or
wherever there is metal to tap on, wait a few hours, repeat, and try to
unlock. Chanced are it'll come open.

Or ... bolt cutters.

Pop`

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has
not been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I
don't know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

I've had good luck flooding seized padlocks with wd-40. And before all the
wd-40 flamers chime in, yes, I did follow that up with silicone spray
after the next trip to hardware store. And yes, a gentle rap with a
hammer, and pushing UP on the lock, sometimes help.

BTW, Master (the brass-key ones, at least) are pretty decent padlocks,
beat the hell out of the cheap imitations. I've never had one outright
fail on me. The no-names at the dollar stores are to be avoided, IMHO.

aem sends....

OK, so what's the deal with WD-40 and silicone?

I'm replacing the lock with one that's keyed like the shed so I don't have
to carry a bunch of keys. New locks are laminated and BIG, old lock was
thinner brass and rubberized, both Master.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 11:49:47 -0400, "Bill Stock"
wrote:

I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has not
been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I don't
know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?




I had the same thing with another lock type. I found that for a few
bucks, you can rent a big-arse set of bolt cutters from a tool rental
place.

hth,

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

In article , "Bill Stock" wrote:

I'm replacing the lock with one that's keyed like the shed so I don't have
to carry a bunch of keys. New locks are laminated and BIG, old lock was
thinner brass and rubberized, both Master.

You're replacing it anyway... all the more reason to use a boltcutter like I
suggested.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 16:35:39 GMT, "aemeijers"
wrote:


"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has
not been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I
don't know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

I've had good luck flooding seized padlocks with wd-40.

Me too, and I don't care if people call it a lubricant or not. If I
spray some in and don't have any more problems for 10 years, that's
good enough for me.

Spray it in the key hole and both shackle holes.

And before all the
wd-40 flamers chime in, yes, I did follow that up with silicone spray after
the next trip to hardware store.

This I wonder about. A) Even if the solvent would evaporate, is it
going to inside a lock? If it doesn't evaporate, is there room for
the silicone spray to get inside? If it evaporates but leaves a
residue, will the silicone stuff just sit on top of that?

I like WD-40 for locks, and don't bother with silicone.


And yes, a gentle rap with a hammer, and
pushing UP on the lock, sometimes help.

Yes.

BTW, Master (the brass-key ones, at least) are pretty decent padlocks, beat

Yes.

the hell out of the cheap imitations. I've never had one outright fail on
me. The no-names at the dollar stores are to be avoided, IMHO.

aem sends....

"betsyb" wrote in message
...
Give it a shot of Graphite and wiggle the key in both directions.

Believe it or not, OIL works better than Graphite. Start with WD-40 (which
isn't a particularly good lubricant) and then shift to penetrating oil.

Inject the WD-40 and penetrating oil both in the keyhole and the shackel and
"wiggle."

Tapping with a hammer might help shake things loose.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 14:32:23 -0400, Just Joshin
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 11:49:47 -0400, "Bill Stock"
wrote:

I've got a cheapish (Master) rubberized lock on an outside gate that has not

Master isn't cheap, imo.

been opened in a while. So it won't open when I turn the key now. I don't
know if the key is not turning fully or if the shackles are stuck.

What's the best approach, whack it with a hammer?

I had the same thing with another lock type. I found that for a few
bucks, you can rent a big-arse set of bolt cutters from a tool rental
place.

hth,

Maybe not. I've talked to a friend of mine who runs a mini-storage,
with maybe 300 padlocks, and when the tenants lose keys or the lock
won't work, if has a thick shackle, even the big bolt cutters won't go
around it or won't bite when they do, or maybe if it is hardened too
they don't work. They have to use an angle grinder and it takes 15 or
20 minutes.


tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info