Hi all,

I will be remodeling my kitchen, and want to install under cabinet
ligts. I am pretty much settled on xenon, and looking at WAC.

It appears that they have both low- and line voltage xenon bars, and
low voltage seems to have integral transformer, so it looks like they
still have to be connected to 120 V (but require low-voltage dimmer,
if I want one).

Low voltage seem to be a little more expensive, and I assume may
require more maintanence (if a transformer dies)

Are there any reasons to get low voltage bars instead of line voltage?

Are there any reasons why I need to look at another manufacturer (like
CSL, Kichler, etc.)?

Thanks for any advise.

Arkadiy

You should be doing LED, not xenon. If you don't like LED, then do
fluorescent.




On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 10:35:51 -0700, Arkadiy
wrote:

Hi all,

I will be remodeling my kitchen, and want to install under cabinet
ligts. I am pretty much settled on xenon, and looking at WAC.

It appears that they have both low- and line voltage xenon bars, and
low voltage seems to have integral transformer, so it looks like they
still have to be connected to 120 V (but require low-voltage dimmer,
if I want one).

Low voltage seem to be a little more expensive, and I assume may
require more maintanence (if a transformer dies)

Are there any reasons to get low voltage bars instead of line voltage?

Are there any reasons why I need to look at another manufacturer (like
CSL, Kichler, etc.)?

Thanks for any advise.

Arkadiy

In article .com,
Arkadiy wrote:

Hi all,

I will be remodeling my kitchen, and want to install under cabinet
ligts. I am pretty much settled on xenon, and looking at WAC.

It appears that they have both low- and line voltage xenon bars, and
low voltage seems to have integral transformer, so it looks like they
still have to be connected to 120 V (but require low-voltage dimmer,
if I want one).

Low voltage seem to be a little more expensive, and I assume may
require more maintanence (if a transformer dies)

Are there any reasons to get low voltage bars instead of line voltage?

Are there any reasons why I need to look at another manufacturer (like
CSL, Kichler, etc.)?

Thanks for any advise.

Arkadiy

I put some halogens in my kitchen, whatever Home Depot had, and have
been happy with them. But, they throw a lot of heat up through the
cabinet floor, which isn't good for some foods in storage. Think about
insulating spacers of some sort if the xenons heat up, or keep dishes on
the bottom shelf.

Smitty Two wrote:

I put some halogens in my kitchen, whatever Home Depot had, and have
been happy with them. But, they throw a lot of heat up through the
cabinet floor, which isn't good for some foods in storage. Think about
insulating spacers of some sort if the xenons heat up, or keep dishes on
the bottom shelf.

Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is cured
in xenons. That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low voltage.

Thanks,

Arkadiy

In article . com,
Arkadiy wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

I put some halogens in my kitchen, whatever Home Depot had, and have
been happy with them. But, they throw a lot of heat up through the
cabinet floor, which isn't good for some foods in storage. Think about
insulating spacers of some sort if the xenons heat up, or keep dishes on
the bottom shelf.

Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is cured
in xenons. That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low voltage.

Thanks,

Arkadiy

Ah, xenon sounds good then. Wouldn't line voltage keep things simpler
and allow you to use smaller wire, too, since it'll draw 1/10 of the
current? (assuming 120 volt vs. 12 volt)

On Jun 19, 11:54 am, Smitty Two wrote:
Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is
cured
in xenons. That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low
voltage.

Thanks,

Arkadiy

Ah, xenon sounds good then. Wouldn't line voltage keep things
simpler
and allow you to use smaller wire, too, since it'll draw 1/10 of the
current? (assuming 120 volt vs. 12 volt)

Sounds like it...

Although I still don't understand why would the manufacturers go into
all this trouble of integrating the transformer in every fixture (thus
complicating its design, and probably compromising reliability).

Maybe I am missing something important.

Regards,

Arkadiy

Arkadiy wrote:
On Jun 19, 11:54 am, Smitty Two wrote:
Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is
cured
in xenons. That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low
voltage.
Thanks,
Arkadiy
Ah, xenon sounds good then. Wouldn't line voltage keep things
simpler
and allow you to use smaller wire, too, since it'll draw 1/10 of the
current? (assuming 120 volt vs. 12 volt)

Sounds like it...

Although I still don't understand why would the manufacturers go into
all this trouble of integrating the transformer in every fixture (thus
complicating its design, and probably compromising reliability).

Maybe I am missing something important.


I assume zenon is arc-discharge like flourescent, neon, high pressure
sodium,... It would then need a ballast for whatever supply. Not obvious
why they would have 12V supply unless it works on DC and can be used in RVs.

--
bud--

Bud-- wrote:

I assume zenon is arc-discharge like flourescent, neon, high pressure
sodium,... It would then need a ballast for whatever supply. Not obvious
why they would have 12V supply unless it works on DC and can be used in RVs.

The Zenon hockey pucks I installed in my kitchen looked identical to halogens
and did not have a transformer or ballast. While they may be cooler than
halogens, they certainly generated a fair amount of heat on the high setting.
Enough that you could feel a warm base shelf above the light. I think most of
the improved safety in Zenons comes from the vented design of the light fixture
and not the type of gas.

--
"Tell me what I should do, Annie."
"Stay. Here. Forever." - Life On Mars

Rick Blaine wrote:
Bud-- wrote:

I assume zenon is arc-discharge like flourescent, neon, high pressure
sodium,... It would then need a ballast for whatever supply. Not obvious
why they would have 12V supply unless it works on DC and can be used in RVs.

The Zenon hockey pucks I installed in my kitchen looked identical to halogens
and did not have a transformer or ballast. While they may be cooler than
halogens, they certainly generated a fair amount of heat on the high setting.
Enough that you could feel a warm base shelf above the light. I think most of
the improved safety in Zenons comes from the vented design of the light fixture
and not the type of gas.


Xenon lights I have read about before were arc–discharge, like
commercial motion picture projectors and headlights.

Looking up some information - these are incandescents with a xenon gas
fill. The xenon transmits heat more poorly than other gases likely to be
used, increasing the efficiency. The xenon also impedes evaporation of
the filament, so the filament can run hotter which gives a bluer light
like halogen. Efficiency and life are higher than normal incandescent
but are not necessarily better than halogen. Bulb glass temperature is
likely lower than halogen, but if the efficiency is the same, they
produce the same amount of heat for the same wattage bulb. Flourescent
is much more efficient.

Bulbs for hockey puck fixtures look like they are all 12V. They then
need a power supply.

Better answers could be provided if there was a link to a fixture
source. But maybe not - information from sources I looked at was minimal.
Some fixtures are hard-wired, some connected with low-voltage wire
(fewer restrictions), some have a cord that plugs into a receptacle and
some have a plug-in transformer with a cord connecting to the fixture
Putting the power supply in the fixture makes the unit self contained.
A remote power supply may run several fixtures, but that doesn’t look
common.
If the power supply is a transformer, it may hum and a remote location
may be quieter. If it uses a switch-mode power supply it may be not
dimmable or require a special dimmer.

Don’t know how far that goes in answering your questions.

--
bud--

In . com, Arkadiy wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:

I put some halogens in my kitchen, whatever Home Depot had, and have
been happy with them. But, they throw a lot of heat up through the
cabinet floor, which isn't good for some foods in storage. Think about
insulating spacers of some sort if the xenons heat up, or keep dishes on
the bottom shelf.

Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is cured
in xenons.

Hardly at all if light output is the same. The xenons will not be much
more efficient than halogens.

That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low voltage.

In general, low voltage incandescents tend to be a little more efficient
than 120V ones of the same wattage and life expectancy. The shorter,
thicker filament can be operated at a higher temperature. A shorter
thicker filament also has less heat conduction to a surrounding fill gas
than a longer, thinner one. In fact, most 120V incandescents less than 25
watts and some longer filament 25 and 40 watt ones have a vacuum because
heat conduction from the filament by a gas hurts efficiency more than
efficiency is helped by the gas allowing a higher filament temperature.

It appears to me that typically 12V incandescents are mostly about 20%
more efficient than 120V ones of the same wattage and life expectancy.

- Don Klipstein )

In article , Bud-- wrote:
Arkadiy wrote:
On Jun 19, 11:54 am, Smitty Two wrote:
Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is
cured
in xenons. That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low
voltage.
Thanks,
Arkadiy
Ah, xenon sounds good then. Wouldn't line voltage keep things
simpler
and allow you to use smaller wire, too, since it'll draw 1/10 of the
current? (assuming 120 volt vs. 12 volt)

Sounds like it...

Although I still don't understand why would the manufacturers go into
all this trouble of integrating the transformer in every fixture (thus
complicating its design, and probably compromising reliability).

Maybe I am missing something important.


I assume zenon is arc-discharge like flourescent, neon, high pressure
sodium,... It would then need a ballast for whatever supply. Not obvious
why they would have 12V supply unless it works on DC and can be used in RVs.

Xenon undercabinet lights are incandescents with xenon fill gas.
Incandescents with xenon are slightly more efficient than ones with
cheaper fill gas and same voltage, wattage and life expectancy.
For same life expectancy, voltage, wattage and efficiency, a step up in
fill gas (from argon to krypton or from krypton to xenon) increases life
expectancy, typically by a factor of 1.5-2 among incandescents that I have
seen specifications for.

- Don Klipstein )

In article , Bud-- wrote:
Rick Blaine wrote:
Bud-- wrote:

I assume zenon is arc-discharge like flourescent, neon, high pressure
sodium,... It would then need a ballast for whatever supply. Not obvious
why they would have 12V supply unless it works on DC and can be used
in RVs.

The Zenon hockey pucks I installed in my kitchen looked identical to
halogens and did not have a transformer or ballast. While they may be
cooler than halogens, they certainly generated a fair amount of heat on
the high setting.
Enough that you could feel a warm base shelf above the light. I think
most of the improved safety in Zenons comes from the vented design of
the light fixture and not the type of gas.


Xenon lights I have read about before were arc–discharge, like
commercial motion picture projectors and headlights.

Another example of the buzzword.

Automotive HID headlight bulbs are metal halide. The xenon is an inert
ingredient when they are warmed up. When they are warmed up, the main
ingredient is mercury vapor, and most of the light is from vapors of metal
halides.

The exnon is provided to give these things some ability to provide some
halfway-reasonable amount of light until they have warmed up enough for
other ingredients to take over.

SNIP remainder, generally true

- Don Klipstein )

Don Klipstein wrote:
In . com, Arkadiy wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:

I put some halogens in my kitchen, whatever Home Depot had, and have
been happy with them. But, they throw a lot of heat up through the
cabinet floor, which isn't good for some foods in storage. Think about
insulating spacers of some sort if the xenons heat up, or keep dishes on
the bottom shelf.
Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is cured
in xenons.

Hardly at all if light output is the same. The xenons will not be much
more efficient than halogens.

That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low voltage.

In general, low voltage incandescents tend to be a little more efficient
than 120V ones of the same wattage and life expectancy. The shorter,
thicker filament can be operated at a higher temperature. A shorter
thicker filament also has less heat conduction to a surrounding fill gas
than a longer, thinner one. In fact, most 120V incandescents less than 25
watts and some longer filament 25 and 40 watt ones have a vacuum because
heat conduction from the filament by a gas hurts efficiency more than
efficiency is helped by the gas allowing a higher filament temperature.

It appears to me that typically 12V incandescents are mostly about 20%
more efficient than 120V ones of the same wattage and life expectancy.


Is there a wattage above which, in general, 120V would be optimum over
'low voltage'?

In the case of xenon fill undercabinet lights, all the lamps I saw were
12 or 24V. Do 120V lamps exist in this application or is 12/120V just a
question of where the power supply is located?


I started to write that someone should collect your posts to a FAQ -
then figured out you have a lot of information at:
http://members.misty.com/don/


--
bud--

On Jun 21, 9:54 pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:

Arkadiy wrote:
Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens,
which is cured in xenons.

Hardly at all if light output is the same. The xenons will not be much
more efficient than halogens.

Does this mean that xenons and halogens will produce the same heat for
the same amount of lumens? I got the impression xenons should be
cooler (at least with respect to under cabinet lights).

Thanks,

Arkadiy

In article , Bud-- wrote:
Don Klipstein wrote:
In . com, Arkadiy wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:

I put some halogens in my kitchen, whatever Home Depot had, and have
been happy with them. But, they throw a lot of heat up through the
cabinet floor, which isn't good for some foods in storage. Think about
insulating spacers of some sort if the xenons heat up, or keep dishes on
the bottom shelf.
Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens, which is cured
in xenons.

Hardly at all if light output is the same. The xenons will not be much
more efficient than halogens.

That's why I am leaneng toward xenons. What I don't
understand is advantages/drawbacks of line voltage versus low voltage.

In general, low voltage incandescents tend to be a little more efficient
than 120V ones of the same wattage and life expectancy. The shorter,
thicker filament can be operated at a higher temperature. A shorter
thicker filament also has less heat conduction to a surrounding fill gas
than a longer, thinner one. In fact, most 120V incandescents less than 25
watts and some longer filament 25 and 40 watt ones have a vacuum because
heat conduction from the filament by a gas hurts efficiency more than
efficiency is helped by the gas allowing a higher filament temperature.

It appears to me that typically 12V incandescents are mostly about 20%
more efficient than 120V ones of the same wattage and life expectancy.

Is there a wattage above which, in general, 120V would be optimum over
'low voltage'?

So far, it appears to me that best incandescent performance in various
wattage ranges is:

Fraction of a watt: Singly coiled filament, vacuum, design voltage
around 5 volts.

Around a watt:

Singly coiled filament, gas fill, design voltage around 3.75-5 volts.

A few watts:

Singly coiled filament, gas fill, design voltage not too far from 6
volts.

Around 10-100 watts:

Singly coiled filament, gas fill, design voltage not too far from 12
volts.

A few hundred watts: Doubly coiled filament, gas fill, design voltage a
few 10's of volts.

Kilowatt or two range: Doubly coiled filament, gas fill, design voltage
higher but still below 80 volts.

There are even 82 volt projector lamps/bulbs. However, I do admit that
in this application a shorter thicker filament has advantages besides
greater efficiency - it also better suits optical systems. Such effective
(RMS) voltage is derived from 120 volts AC by putting a diode in series
with the lamp.

In the case of xenon fill undercabinet lights, all the lamps I saw were
12 or 24V. Do 120V lamps exist in this application or is 12/120V just a
question of where the power supply is located?

If the bulbs are only a few watts apiece, then this is a matter of where
the stepdown transformer is located. 120V lightbulbs of only a few watts
will do better with a vacuum than with even xenon.

I started to write that someone should collect your posts to a FAQ -
then figured out you have a lot of information at:
http://members.misty.com/don/

I have some doubt that I went that far in this area in my website...

- Don Klipstein )

In .com, Arkadiy wrote:
On Jun 21, 9:54 pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:

Arkadiy wrote:
Actually I knew there is a heat problem with halogens,
which is cured in xenons.

Hardly at all if light output is the same. The xenons will not be much
more efficient than halogens.

Does this mean that xenons and halogens will produce the same heat for
the same amount of lumens? I got the impression xenons should be
cooler (at least with respect to under cabinet lights).

For same lumens, xenon produces only slightly less heat than other
incandescents of same design voltage.

As for heat convected and conducted as opposed to radiated, xenon
may produce less to an amount maybe a bit more than "slightly" since from
this slightly lower heat output the percentage that is convected/conducted
is slightly decreased by xenon and the percentage radiated is slightly
increased by xenon.
More likely, all of this adds up to hardly more than "slightly" less
cabinet heating from given lumens of xenon lighting than from halogen
lighting.

Keep in mind that "xenon" has been used well as a buzzword, all too
often by hypesters.

- Don Klipstein )

On Jun 23, 1:05 am, (Don Klipstein) wrote:

Keep in mind that "xenon" has been used well as a buzzword, all too
often by hypesters.

OK, thanks for the information.

I think I understand things a little better now, and please correct me
if I am wrong, but here it is:

A light bulb is a device that converts electrical energy (wattage)
into two other forms of energy -- heat and light. The most energy
(about 97% for a typical bulb) is converted into the heat. Thus one
can safely assume that the amunt of generated heat is determined by
the wattage. So, no matter xenon or not, by looking at the wattage
one can say whether or not it is going to be hot.

The wattage also directly determins the operation costs.

The other parameter is the amount of light generated, in lumens, which
tells you how bright it is.

And the third thing is the color temperature. If not for this
parameter, the fluorescents would be the ultimate bulbs.

Now my original problem:

There are three types of undercabinet lights produced by WAC:

Halogen line voltage -- 25W, 240 Lumen;
Xenon line voltage -- 25W, 260 Lumen;
Xenon low voltage -- 18W, 266 Lumen.

So it seems that the Halogen and Xenon line voltage fixtures will
actually produce the same amount of heat.

The low voltage fixture will produce 25% less heat, and will be 25%
cheaper to operate than the other two.

The difference in the brightness seems to be negligible.

Is this correct?

Thanks,
Arkadiy

In article .com,
Arkadiy wrote:
On Jun 23, 1:05 am, (Don Klipstein) wrote:

Keep in mind that "xenon" has been used well as a buzzword, all too
often by hypesters.

OK, thanks for the information.

I think I understand things a little better now, and please correct me
if I am wrong, but here it is:

A light bulb is a device that converts electrical energy (wattage)
into two other forms of energy -- heat and light. The most energy
(about 97% for a typical bulb) is converted into the heat.

It's more like 94% if you want a "1-size-fits-all" figure.

Thus one can safely assume that the amunt of generated heat is determined
by the wattage. So, no matter xenon or not, by looking at the wattage
one can say whether or not it is going to be hot.

Largely true.

With any incandeascent technology, about half or a little more than
half the input power becomes optical band infrared, which goes where the
light goes and heats up whatever ultimately absorbs it.

So roughly 40% of the input power becomes convected/conducted heat (heat
at the fixture). This varies somewhat with wattage, design voltage, and
fill gas.

With fluorescent, roughly 75% of the input power becomes
convected/conducted heat. With most LEDs already on the market or, this
figure is usually around 80-85%.

The wattage also directly determines the operation costs.

True.

The other parameter is the amount of light generated, in lumens, which
tells you how bright it is.

And the third thing is the color temperature. If not for this
parameter, the fluorescents would be the ultimate bulbs.

Fluorescents come in various color temperatures. Notably, 3500K compact
fluorescents just became available in many wattages at both Home Depot and
Lowes in the past year or so.

There is a fourth parameter: Color rendering index, or CRI. This is 100
for incandescent, including halogen and xenon.

A fifth one that you never see is nature of color distortions when CRI
is less than 100:

Most fluorescents with CRI 82-86 have a tendency to slightly exaggerate
the vividness of colors. My main objection to this formulation is that
pure reds can be rendered orangish. All 17 and 32 watt T8 and all common
compact fluorescents with CRI in this range have this formulation.
Most fluorescents with CRI outside the 82-86 range tend to make colors
duller and darker than "proper".

Now my original problem:

There are three types of undercabinet lights produced by WAC:

Halogen line voltage -- 25W, 240 Lumen;
Xenon line voltage -- 25W, 260 Lumen;
Xenon low voltage -- 18W, 266 Lumen.

(I just want to add that a 9 watt CFL produces 400-440 lumens)

So it seems that the Halogen and Xenon line voltage fixtures will
actually produce the same amount of heat.

The low voltage fixture will produce 25% less heat, and will be 25%
cheaper to operate than the other two.

The low voltage fixture will produce 25% less heat at the fixture, but I
expect the cost savings to be less. The power supply converting line
voltage to low voltage will have a loss.

The difference in the brightness seems to be negligible.

The difference does appear to me negligible, and the figures do appear
reasonable rather than exaggerated.

Is this correct?

Other than power supply's power consumption, the answer is yes.

- Don Klipstein )

We wrestled with this one too several years ago. I had difficulty
finding the xenon in either voltage at the time and had seen halogen
pucks that scorched the surface they were attached to. I solved it
with rope lights. They are not xenon but they did solve the heat
problem (very little), they were low cost, easy to install, cooperate
well with a dimmer switch and provide just enough task light. Going
on six years now without a single burnout. Just an alternative
thought...

Daryl

On Jun 23, 2:48 pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:
In article .com,

Arkadiy wrote:
On Jun 23, 1:05 am, (Don Klipstein) wrote:

Keep in mind that "xenon" has been used well as a buzzword, all too
often by hypesters.

OK, thanks for the information.

I think I understand things a little better now, and please correct me
if I am wrong, but here it is:

A light bulb is a device that converts electrical energy (wattage)
into two other forms of energy -- heat and light. The most energy
(about 97% for a typical bulb) is converted into the heat.

It's more like 94% if you want a "1-size-fits-all" figure.

Thus one can safely assume that the amunt of generated heat is determined
by the wattage. So, no matter xenon or not, by looking at the wattage
one can say whether or not it is going to be hot.

Largely true.

With any incandeascent technology, about half or a little more than
half the input power becomes optical band infrared, which goes where the
light goes and heats up whatever ultimately absorbs it.

So roughly 40% of the input power becomes convected/conducted heat (heat
at the fixture). This varies somewhat with wattage, design voltage, and
fill gas.

With fluorescent, roughly 75% of the input power becomes
convected/conducted heat. With most LEDs already on the market or, this
figure is usually around 80-85%.

The wattage also directly determines the operation costs.

True.

The other parameter is the amount of light generated, in lumens, which
tells you how bright it is.

And the third thing is the color temperature. If not for this
parameter, the fluorescents would be the ultimate bulbs.

Fluorescents come in various color temperatures. Notably, 3500K compact
fluorescents just became available in many wattages at both Home Depot and
Lowes in the past year or so.

There is a fourth parameter: Color rendering index, or CRI. This is 100
for incandescent, including halogen and xenon.

A fifth one that you never see is nature of color distortions when CRI
is less than 100:

Most fluorescents with CRI 82-86 have a tendency to slightly exaggerate
the vividness of colors. My main objection to this formulation is that
pure reds can be rendered orangish. All 17 and 32 watt T8 and all common
compact fluorescents with CRI in this range have this formulation.
Most fluorescents with CRI outside the 82-86 range tend to make colors
duller and darker than "proper".

Now my original problem:

There are three types of undercabinet lights produced by WAC:

Halogen line voltage -- 25W, 240 Lumen;
Xenon line voltage -- 25W, 260 Lumen;
Xenon low voltage -- 18W, 266 Lumen.

(I just want to add that a 9 watt CFL produces 400-440 lumens)

So it seems that the Halogen and Xenon line voltage fixtures will
actually produce the same amount of heat.

The low voltage fixture will produce 25% less heat, and will be 25%
cheaper to operate than the other two.

The low voltage fixture will produce 25% less heat at the fixture, but I
expect the cost savings to be less. The power supply converting line
voltage to low voltage will have a loss.

The difference in the brightness seems to be negligible.

The difference does appear to me negligible, and the figures do appear
reasonable rather than exaggerated.

Is this correct?

Other than power supply's power consumption, the answer is yes.

- Don Klipstein )

On Jun 24, 10:42 pm, "
wrote:

We wrestled with this one too several years ago. I had difficulty
finding the xenon in either voltage at the time and had seen halogen
pucks that scorched the surface they were attached to. I solved it
with rope lights. They are not xenon but they did solve the heat
problem (very little), they were low cost, easy to install, cooperate
well with a dimmer switch and provide just enough task light. Going
on six years now without a single burnout. Just an alternative
thought...

Thanks.

How are they color temperature-wise? The ones that I can see on
bellacor.com, even ones that are marked as "warm white", have the
color temperature of 4000. The xenons I am looking at have 2900
degrees.

Regards,
Arkadiy

On Jun 22, 11:42 am, Bud-- wrote:

In the case of xenon fill undercabinet lights, all the lamps I saw were
12 or 24V. Do 120V lamps exist in this application

It appears that this WAC-produced fixture uses 120V 25W xenon bulb:

http://waclighting.com/USA/products/...productid=1034

It also appears that it has almost no advantages over corresponding
halogen fixtu

http://waclighting.com/USA/products/...&productid=318

Regards,
Arkadiy