drain pipe connection questions
 

I sold my home and durring the home inspection they brought up 2 plumbing
issues that I am questioning.

1. My bathtub has a rubber hose connecting two pvc drain pipes. The one
pipe comes out of the tub and the other goes to the sewer pipe. The hose
connecting them looks like a car radiator hose with clamps on each. Is this
wrong even though there are no leaks? If it is what needs to be used to
connect the two pvc's? The rubber hose is in a semi-circle shape about 13"
long.

2. I have a ventalation pipe that comes down from the sealing behind a wall
to the basement where it is connected to my kitchen drain with a "T" shaped
pvc pipe. Who ever put it together used a mound of sealer, probably 1/4
inch thick to connect the pvc to the metal vent pipe. The inspector says
the glue has to be removed and it has to be sealed properly. This pipe is
just a vent and does not leak and never will. The connection is so strong I
don't even know how I would get it apart. What would one suggestion to fix
this and does it actually need fixing?


I would appreciate any suggestion on these items.

Thanks


--

drain pipe connection questions
 

Bob wrote:

I sold my home and durring the home inspection they brought up 2 plumbing
issues that I am questioning.

1. My bathtub has a rubber hose connecting two pvc drain pipes. The one
pipe comes out of the tub and the other goes to the sewer pipe. The hose
connecting them looks like a car radiator hose with clamps on each. Is this
wrong even though there are no leaks? If it is what needs to be used to
connect the two pvc's? The rubber hose is in a semi-circle shape about 13"
long.

2. I have a ventalation pipe that comes down from the sealing behind a wall
to the basement where it is connected to my kitchen drain with a "T" shaped
pvc pipe. Who ever put it together used a mound of sealer, probably 1/4
inch thick to connect the pvc to the metal vent pipe. The inspector says
the glue has to be removed and it has to be sealed properly. This pipe is
just a vent and does not leak and never will. The connection is so strong I
don't even know how I would get it apart. What would one suggestion to fix
this and does it actually need fixing?


I would appreciate any suggestion on these items.

Thanks


I vote with the inspector. Both situations sound
like "home-made" repairs and should be corrected prior
to sale.

http://www.fernco.com/coupling.asp
has a coupling for every application.
Can't tell you exactly which catalog # cuz I ain't there
to see it.

Jim

drain pipe connection questions
 

On 18 Jun, 10:58, "Bob" wrote:
I sold my home and durring the home inspection they brought up 2 plumbing
issues that I am questioning.

1. My bathtub has a rubber hose connecting two pvc drain pipes. The one
pipe comes out of the tub and the other goes to the sewer pipe. The hose
connecting them looks like a car radiator hose with clamps on each. Is this
wrong even though there are no leaks? If it is what needs to be used to
connect the two pvc's? The rubber hose is in a semi-circle shape about 13"
long.

2. I have a ventalation pipe that comes down from the sealing behind a wall
to the basement where it is connected to my kitchen drain with a "T" shaped
pvc pipe. Who ever put it together used a mound of sealer, probably 1/4
inch thick to connect the pvc to the metal vent pipe. The inspector says
the glue has to be removed and it has to be sealed properly. This pipe is
just a vent and does not leak and never will. The connection is so strong I
don't even know how I would get it apart. What would one suggestion to fix
this and does it actually need fixing?

I would appreciate any suggestion on these items.

Thanks

--

Your bathtub connection sounds an awful lot like a Fernco coupling.
See he http://www.fernco.com/QL.asp

What did the inpsector say about that? As far as I know, they are
perfectly acceptable, assuming it's spec'd correctly for your
application.

I'd agree with the inspector on the 2nd situation. There are Fernco
couplings for connecting pipes of different materials. Perhaps you
need to cut out the T, replace it with a new one, glue a PVC stub into
the vent opening and use a Fernco coupling to connect the stub to the
metal pipe.

You said: it "does not leak and never will". How do you know it never
will?

drain pipe connection questions
 

You said: it "does not leak and never will". How do you know it never
will?

May be not never but its thicker then a cast and hard as a rock. The
connection is probalby stonger then the pipe itself. Not to mention its the
vent part above the water and would only get water in it if the sewer backed
up.

I agree its very sloppy work and the person who did it should be hung but
whats the point of changing it to something that less strong just because
its not pretty. Its hidden under the rafters and you would never have to
look at it anyway.


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
oups.com...

drain pipe connection questions
 

On 18 Jun, 12:22, "Bob" wrote:
You said: it "does not leak and never will". How do you know it never
will?

May be not never but its thicker then a cast and hard as a rock. The
connection is probalby stonger then the pipe itself. Not to mention its the
vent part above the water and would only get water in it if the sewer backed
up.

I agree its very sloppy work and the person who did it should be hung but
whats the point of changing it to something that less strong just because
its not pretty. Its hidden under the rafters and you would never have to
look at it anyway.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

oups.com...

Rocks crack.

It seems to me that if you got three dissimilar materials - PVC, metal
and the sealer - then the potential exists for movement (vibration or
expansion/contraction from temperature changes) to separate the
materials. Marine grade epoxies with fillers can be as hard as a rock,
but they can still separate from the material that they are attempting
to bond.

I'd be less concerned about water infiltration and more worried about
sewer gases. I don't know the configuration of your plumbing, but is
it possible that sewer gases could find their way through the system
and exit through the aforementioned separation of the 3 materials?

I think a Fernco coupling would provide both a means to absorb
vibration and a seal against sewer gases.

These are just my thoughts. If the buyer signs off on the inspection
report and doesn't force you to fix it, then you are off the hook
since it's not a "hidden defect" that you knew about but didn't inform
them about. On the other hand, if you're going to lose the sale over
this issue, you have to decide if it's worth standing your ground or
replacing the fittings, regardless of whether or not you consider the
"repair" a downgrade.

drain pipe connection questions
 

On Jun 18, 10:58 am, "Bob" wrote:
I sold my home and durring the home inspection they brought up 2 plumbing
issues that I am questioning.

1. My bathtub has a rubber hose connecting two pvc drain pipes. The one
pipe comes out of the tub and the other goes to the sewer pipe. The hose
connecting them looks like a car radiator hose with clamps on each. Is this
wrong even though there are no leaks? If it is what needs to be used to
connect the two pvc's? The rubber hose is in a semi-circle shape about 13"
long.

2. I have a ventalation pipe that comes down from the sealing behind a wall
to the basement where it is connected to my kitchen drain with a "T" shaped
pvc pipe. Who ever put it together used a mound of sealer, probably 1/4
inch thick to connect the pvc to the metal vent pipe. The inspector says
the glue has to be removed and it has to be sealed properly. This pipe is
just a vent and does not leak and never will. The connection is so strong I
don't even know how I would get it apart. What would one suggestion to fix
this and does it actually need fixing?

I would appreciate any suggestion on these items.

Thanks

--

Don't fix anything. If the buyer is unwilling to proceed with the
purchase negotiate an amount for repairs and let them deal with it.
If you fix it or hire someone to fix it they can always complain
again. A couple hundred bucks credit on the sale is no big deal.

drain pipe connection questions
 

On 18 Jun, 14:02, RayV wrote:
On Jun 18, 10:58 am, "Bob" wrote:





I sold my home and durring the home inspection they brought up 2 plumbing
issues that I am questioning.

1. My bathtub has a rubber hose connecting two pvc drain pipes. The one
pipe comes out of the tub and the other goes to the sewer pipe. The hose
connecting them looks like a car radiator hose with clamps on each. Is this
wrong even though there are no leaks? If it is what needs to be used to
connect the two pvc's? The rubber hose is in a semi-circle shape about 13"
long.

2. I have a ventalation pipe that comes down from the sealing behind a wall
to the basement where it is connected to my kitchen drain with a "T" shaped
pvc pipe. Who ever put it together used a mound of sealer, probably 1/4
inch thick to connect the pvc to the metal vent pipe. The inspector says
the glue has to be removed and it has to be sealed properly. This pipe is
just a vent and does not leak and never will. The connection is so strong I
don't even know how I would get it apart. What would one suggestion to fix
this and does it actually need fixing?

I would appreciate any suggestion on these items.

Thanks

--

Don't fix anything. If the buyer is unwilling to proceed with the
purchase negotiate an amount for repairs and let them deal with it.
If you fix it or hire someone to fix it they can always complain
again. A couple hundred bucks credit on the sale is no big deal.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

RayV,

For the most part, I'll agree with you. However, the buyers may be of
the type that do not want to deal with the repairs themselves,
regardless of the negotiated price. They may be saying to the
themselves "What else could go wrong once I start this repair?" Is the
$200 credit going to cost me $2000 once I start taking pipes apart?"

I once passed on a house because every window on the first floor was
painted shut and the seller refused to unstick them. He offered me a
couple of hundred off the price to leave them as is, but I said no.
Here's why - The windows in this house were of the sash cord and
counter weight style. I had no way of knowing how many of the windows
were going to need repairs that would easily consume the couple of
hundred dollars he offered me.

In the case of the OP's vent stack, who knows what else will need to
be fixed once the new owners start the repair. Ever complete a
plumbing job with just one trip to the store? ;-)

drain pipe connection questions
 

If its an old house and has old windows they are going to need fixing sooner
or later why wouldn't you bid lower to begin with? I can see big things
like structural problems, leaks, electric panel and major things that you
didn't see. But windows, plumbing, wiring, insulation, etc.. are all part
of buying an old house. If you want to buy a house that perfect then you
should be looking at new construction. In your case the windows didn't open
at all which is a legitimate concern and is not normal so if he wasn't going
to unstick them you should asume the hardware was bad and got a rebate
accordingly.

When I bought my house I looked at the age of the windows, the 2 prong
electic outlets, the other things that come with an old houses and bid
accordingly. The inspector pointed out all the things that were old and
could use replacing. I knew these things would be there when I original bid
on the house. The inspector did find some major roofing issues that I
didn't see so so the seller split the price of a new roof with me and that
was it. I don't know how people can bid on a 50 year old house and then
after the inspection ask for something as trivial as GFI outlets in the
kitchen.



"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ups.com...
On 18 Jun, 14:02, RayV wrote:
On Jun 18, 10:58 am, "Bob" wrote:





I sold my home and durring the home inspection they brought up 2
plumbing
issues that I am questioning.

1. My bathtub has a rubber hose connecting two pvc drain pipes. The
one
pipe comes out of the tub and the other goes to the sewer pipe. The
hose
connecting them looks like a car radiator hose with clamps on each. Is
this
wrong even though there are no leaks? If it is what needs to be used
to
connect the two pvc's? The rubber hose is in a semi-circle shape about
13"
long.

2. I have a ventalation pipe that comes down from the sealing behind a
wall
to the basement where it is connected to my kitchen drain with a "T"
shaped
pvc pipe. Who ever put it together used a mound of sealer, probably
1/4
inch thick to connect the pvc to the metal vent pipe. The inspector
says
the glue has to be removed and it has to be sealed properly. This pipe
is
just a vent and does not leak and never will. The connection is so
strong I
don't even know how I would get it apart. What would one suggestion to
fix
this and does it actually need fixing?

I would appreciate any suggestion on these items.

Thanks

--

Don't fix anything. If the buyer is unwilling to proceed with the
purchase negotiate an amount for repairs and let them deal with it.
If you fix it or hire someone to fix it they can always complain
again. A couple hundred bucks credit on the sale is no big deal.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

RayV,

For the most part, I'll agree with you. However, the buyers may be of
the type that do not want to deal with the repairs themselves,
regardless of the negotiated price. They may be saying to the
themselves "What else could go wrong once I start this repair?" Is the
$200 credit going to cost me $2000 once I start taking pipes apart?"

I once passed on a house because every window on the first floor was
painted shut and the seller refused to unstick them. He offered me a
couple of hundred off the price to leave them as is, but I said no.
Here's why - The windows in this house were of the sash cord and
counter weight style. I had no way of knowing how many of the windows
were going to need repairs that would easily consume the couple of
hundred dollars he offered me.

In the case of the OP's vent stack, who knows what else will need to
be fixed once the new owners start the repair. Ever complete a
plumbing job with just one trip to the store? ;-)

drain pipe connection questions
 

On 19 Jun, 12:12, "Bob" wrote:
If its an old house and has old windows they are going to need fixing sooner
or later why wouldn't you bid lower to begin with? I can see big things
like structural problems, leaks, electric panel and major things that you
didn't see. But windows, plumbing, wiring, insulation, etc.. are all part
of buying an old house. If you want to buy a house that perfect then you
should be looking at new construction. In your case the windows didn't open
at all which is a legitimate concern and is not normal so if he wasn't going
to unstick them you should asume the hardware was bad and got a rebate
accordingly.

When I bought my house I looked at the age of the windows, the 2 prong
electic outlets, the other things that come with an old houses and bid
accordingly. The inspector pointed out all the things that were old and
could use replacing. I knew these things would be there when I original bid
on the house. The inspector did find some major roofing issues that I
didn't see so so the seller split the price of a new roof with me and that
was it. I don't know how people can bid on a 50 year old house and then
after the inspection ask for something as trivial as GFI outlets in the
kitchen.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

ups.com...



On 18 Jun, 14:02, RayV wrote:
On Jun 18, 10:58 am, "Bob" wrote:

I sold my home and durring the home inspection they brought up 2
plumbing
issues that I am questioning.

1. My bathtub has a rubber hose connecting two pvc drain pipes. The
one
pipe comes out of the tub and the other goes to the sewer pipe. The
hose
connecting them looks like a car radiator hose with clamps on each. Is
this
wrong even though there are no leaks? If it is what needs to be used
to
connect the two pvc's? The rubber hose is in a semi-circle shape about
13"
long.

2. I have a ventalation pipe that comes down from the sealing behind a
wall
to the basement where it is connected to my kitchen drain with a "T"
shaped
pvc pipe. Who ever put it together used a mound of sealer, probably
1/4
inch thick to connect the pvc to the metal vent pipe. The inspector
says
the glue has to be removed and it has to be sealed properly. This pipe
is
just a vent and does not leak and never will. The connection is so
strong I
don't even know how I would get it apart. What would one suggestion to
fix
this and does it actually need fixing?

I would appreciate any suggestion on these items.

Thanks

--

Don't fix anything. If the buyer is unwilling to proceed with the
purchase negotiate an amount for repairs and let them deal with it.
If you fix it or hire someone to fix it they can always complain
again. A couple hundred bucks credit on the sale is no big deal.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

RayV,

For the most part, I'll agree with you. However, the buyers may be of
the type that do not want to deal with the repairs themselves,
regardless of the negotiated price. They may be saying to the
themselves "What else could go wrong once I start this repair?" Is the
$200 credit going to cost me $2000 once I start taking pipes apart?"

I once passed on a house because every window on the first floor was
painted shut and the seller refused to unstick them. He offered me a
couple of hundred off the price to leave them as is, but I said no.
Here's why - The windows in this house were of the sash cord and
counter weight style. I had no way of knowing how many of the windows
were going to need repairs that would easily consume the couple of
hundred dollars he offered me.

In the case of the OP's vent stack, who knows what else will need to
be fixed once the new owners start the repair. Ever complete a
plumbing job with just one trip to the store? ;-)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I avoided going into any more detail, but yes, I did try to negotiate
a lower price. The seller was insistant that the windows worked, they
were just painted shut and I could take the $200 or leave it. I chose
the latter. If he wasn't going to budge on the price and wasn't going
to prove that the windows worked, I wasn't going to take a chance.