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#1
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty
for several years. They require a long extension ladder to get to them. I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then install the bulbs? Thanks, Dave |
#2
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Dave wrote:
I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty for several years. .... I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Think? Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then install the bulbs? You can, but it would be far better unless they're in better shape than one would expect to do a good job of cleaning them up first. I tend to use the automotive-style dielectric grease (like you find in tail light fixtures, etc.) in outdoor sockets to minimize the inevitable corrosion. -- |
#3
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Dave wrote:
I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty for several years. They require a long extension ladder to get to them. I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then install the bulbs? Thanks, Dave Yes you can....And it won't do any harm... Whether it will do any good is the question... Prepare yourself for having to replace all the sockets, that may be easier than trying to get rid of the corrosion they may have suffered. they're not all that expensive, and when you install the new bulbs go to an auto supply store and get a tube of "dielectric grease" to smear liberally on the bulb bases to avoid their bases getting corroded into the sockets. HTH, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#4
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Dave wrote:
I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty for several years. They require a long extension ladder to get to them. I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then install the bulbs? Thanks, Dave You can, but why? Think about it. What use is perfuemed pressurized keroscene? I won't stay in place, it will drip out. It provides zeopotetion aganist additional corrosion and will have at best an ephemeral effetc on the threads in terms of getting a new bulbinstalled. Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or spark plug boot grease. Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb. If you have corrosion on the socket threads, TURN OFF THE POWER. Thoroughly sand the socket threads and the center "button" at the base of the socket with 180- 200 grit paper. Think about replacing the socket if its really badly corroded, and use the conductive bulb or spark plug boot grease on bulbs in the new sockets. And always use the big "rubber" / neprene / whatever washer with the bulbs. Its not perfect but it does hepl reduce the moisture that gets into the sockets. |
#5
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Charlie Morgan wrote:
.... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" -- I routinely have used it on rusted threads w/ a oxy-acetylene torch -- it flares up a little and smokes but doesn't go "boom"... It just isn't have a great deal of help for what OP's problem(s) most likely are... -- |
#6
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- -- |
#7
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message ... Dave wrote: I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty for several years. They require a long extension ladder to get to them. I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then install the bulbs? Thanks, Dave You can, but why? Think about it. What use is perfuemed pressurized keroscene? I won't stay in place, it will drip out. It provides zeopotetion aganist additional corrosion and will have at best an ephemeral effetc on the threads in terms of getting a new bulbinstalled. Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or spark plug boot grease. Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb. If you have corrosion on the socket threads, TURN OFF THE POWER. Thoroughly sand the socket threads and the center "button" at the base of the socket with 180- 200 grit paper. Think about replacing the socket if its really badly corroded, and use the conductive bulb or spark plug boot grease on bulbs in the new sockets. And always use the big "rubber" / neprene / whatever washer with the bulbs. Its not perfect but it does hepl reduce the moisture that gets into the sockets. I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical contact. |
#8
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
kool wrote:
"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message ... Dave wrote: I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty for several years. They require a long extension ladder to get to them. I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then install the bulbs? Thanks, Dave You can, but why? Think about it. What use is perfuemed pressurized keroscene? I won't stay in place, it will drip out. It provides zeopotetion aganist additional corrosion and will have at best an ephemeral effetc on the threads in terms of getting a new bulbinstalled. Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or spark plug boot grease. Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb. If you have corrosion on the socket threads, TURN OFF THE POWER. Thoroughly sand the socket threads and the center "button" at the base of the socket with 180- 200 grit paper. Think about replacing the socket if its really badly corroded, and use the conductive bulb or spark plug boot grease on bulbs in the new sockets. And always use the big "rubber" / neprene / whatever washer with the bulbs. Its not perfect but it does hepl reduce the moisture that gets into the sockets. I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical contact. I meant exactly what I said. Unfortunatly, you don't have very good reading comprehension. |
#9
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
kool wrote:
"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message ... Dave wrote: I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been .... I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a .... to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or spark plug boot grease. Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb. .... I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical contact. Yes, he did mean that. "Dielectric" grease is the trick... It works by filling air space and contact is still metal to metal for the conduction path... From the product description for a Permatex product--others are similar... Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a silicone dielectric compound used to insulate, lubricate and protect electrical fittings. It protects against salt, dirt, moisture intrusion and stray current in electrical connections. Dielectric grease extends bulb and housing life of navigation lights, masthead electrical connections, trailer lighting and harness or any electric connections exposed to moisture and the elements. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connector thereby insuring a strong spark in high energy engine ignition systems. -- |
#10
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) .... See, I said it wasn't "highly" flammable... Can't you tell someone is (mostly) funnin' ya'? Although I have used it as described although I do the spraying before lighting the torch. It really doesn't even flare up good, mostly just smokes and sputters a little. The propellant is long gone, by the time one gets the torch lit, of course... -- |
#11
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
jJim McLaughlin wrote:
kool wrote: "jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message .... Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or spark plug boot grease. .... I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical contact. I meant exactly what I said. Well, I stuck up for ya' in another response, but if that is what you meant, you're under a (fairly common) misconception. "Boot" or "bulb" grease(s) are actually dielectric (silicone, usually) greases, _not_ conductive. As kool wondered, if they were actually conducting in a bulb socket, for example, they would provide a path from hot to neutral, an undesirable "feature" when power is switched on. The grease doesn't conduct, the connection relies on mechanical contact through the grease for the conduction path. See the product description I posted for the Permatex product in the other response. -- |
#12
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 15, 3:06 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The warning label on Ph increaser for swimming pools has all kinds of labels on it. "Do not ingest", "If swallowed, call poison control", etc. etc. etc. It is baking soda. Warning are some lawyer trying to get out of the next lawsuit. Yes you should be careful, but WD-40 isn't too bad unless you're a 12-year- old with a cigarette lighter. |
#13
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use that). It is hairspray. If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. |
#14
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 15, 1:42 pm, Pat wrote:
On Jun 15, 3:06 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The warning label on Ph increaser for swimming pools has all kinds of labels on it. "Do not ingest", "If swallowed, call poison control", etc. etc. etc. It is baking soda. Warning are some lawyer trying to get out of the next lawsuit. Yes you should be careful, but WD-40 isn't too bad unless you're a 12-year- old with a cigarette lighter. who says its just 12 years olds that pull that trick? |
#15
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 15, 3:44 pm, Pat wrote:
On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use that). It is hairspray. If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. You know of a spudgun fuel *less* explosive than hairspray (actually, the butane propellant)? I can't get my cannon to fire without vaporizing the potato. |
#16
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message . .. kool wrote: "jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message ... Dave wrote: I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty for several years. They require a long extension ladder to get to them. I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then install the bulbs? Thanks, Dave You can, but why? Think about it. What use is perfuemed pressurized keroscene? I won't stay in place, it will drip out. It provides zeopotetion aganist additional corrosion and will have at best an ephemeral effetc on the threads in terms of getting a new bulbinstalled. Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or spark plug boot grease. Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb. If you have corrosion on the socket threads, TURN OFF THE POWER. Thoroughly sand the socket threads and the center "button" at the base of the socket with 180- 200 grit paper. Think about replacing the socket if its really badly corroded, and use the conductive bulb or spark plug boot grease on bulbs in the new sockets. And always use the big "rubber" / neprene / whatever washer with the bulbs. Its not perfect but it does hepl reduce the moisture that gets into the sockets. I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical contact. I meant exactly what I said. Unfortunatly, you don't have very good reading comprehension. Thanks for your observation Jim, Maybe a high quality lubricant like Loctite copper base Anti sieze compound would work even better on YOUR light sockets but I would advise against it. |
#17
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 15, 4:17 pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jun 15, 3:44 pm, Pat wrote: On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use that). It is hairspray. If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. You know of a spudgun fuel *less* explosive than hairspray (actually, the butane propellant)? I can't get my cannon to fire without vaporizing the potato. Usually it is just 3 short bursts for a shot. A burst being just enought get a spray -- maybe 1/4 seconds each. You're sliding the potatos in like a muzzleloader, aren't you? |
#18
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
dpb wrote:
kool wrote: "jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message ... Dave wrote: I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been ... I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a ... to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or spark plug boot grease. Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb. ... I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical contact. Yes, he did mean that. "Dielectric" grease is the trick... It works by filling air space and contact is still metal to metal for the conduction path... From the product description for a Permatex product--others are similar... Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a silicone dielectric compound used to insulate, lubricate and protect electrical fittings. It protects against salt, dirt, moisture intrusion and stray current in electrical connections. Dielectric grease extends bulb and housing life of navigation lights, masthead electrical connections, trailer lighting and harness or any electric connections exposed to moisture and the elements. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connector thereby insuring a strong spark in high energy engine ignition systems. -- I've never encountered any truly conductive greases yet, though no doubt they can be made. I just stuck one ohmmeter probe down into the contents of my can of Thomas & Betts "Koper-Shield" and touched the other probe to the metal can. There was no discernable conductivity, even though the grease has a distinctly copper color. I think those kinds of "conductive greases" are loaded with finely divided metal particles which become "conductors" when they are compressed between two metal parts and the non conducting grease squirts out. I've used Koper-Shield on bayonet base automobile lamp bulbs for years without any undue effects, but I've never applied it to a line voltage bulb's base, nor do I think I'd try it. G Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#19
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Aqua Net is best for this.
-- BetsyB "Pat" wrote in message oups.com... On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use that). It is hairspray. If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. |
#20
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Charlie Morgan wrote:
Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. Aw, come on! They're just saying that to protect themselves from nusiance lawsuits. No big deal. |
#21
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
HeyBub wrote:
Charlie Morgan wrote: Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. Aw, come on! They're just saying that to protect themselves from nusiance lawsuits. No big deal. Aquanet has killed at least one woman who was stupid enough to ignore the "Do not puncture or incinerate" warning on the spray can: http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-news/1547132/posts My curious mind wanted to find out how the lawsuit came out, and when I couldn't Google anything more about it I posted to misc.legal.moderated and let the legal eagles have a go at it. The most they were able to find out is that the case is "still pending" and a defense montion to dismiss it was denied. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#22
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience--- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. -- -- It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) -- -- As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. My can of WD-40 says "Combustible' on the front and Do not use near heat, fire or flames on the back. Of course, my can doesn't contain any propellent either. So I'm guessing your EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE is due to the propellent. Save yourself some money - Buy WD-40 in the gallon can (about $12): http://images.lowes.com/product/061536/061536430013.jpg and buy a couple of these spray bottles ($3.29): http://mbeacon.mydoitbest.com/webcon...=575402&size=1 Or any spray bottle that can be used with petroleum products. I have three of the ones pictured above and I just refill them as needed. $20 spent on bulk WD-40 and a couple spray bottles will last you a lot longer than $20 spent on WD-40 in the standard spray cans. |
#23
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
In article ,
Charlie Morgan wrote: Except that a regular aerosol can of WD40 lasts me about 15-20 years! CWM You're not using enough of it. You should be putting several tablespoons in your keyboard once a week or so to keep the keys from sticking, adding it to your lawnmower gas instead of 2-cycle oil, and your wife should put a 1/4 cup or so in the washing machine to get the grass stains out of the kids' pants, and also it's great for polishing silverware. |
#24
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Sat, 16 Jun 2007 06:05:15 -0700, Smitty Two
graced this newsgroup with: In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Except that a regular aerosol can of WD40 lasts me about 15-20 years! CWM You're not using enough of it. You should be putting several tablespoons in your keyboard once a week or so to keep the keys from sticking, adding it to your lawnmower gas instead of 2-cycle oil, and your wife should put a 1/4 cup or so in the washing machine to get the grass stains out of the kids' pants, and also it's great for polishing silverware. and here I thought it was only good for cooking. |
#25
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Smitty Two wrote:
You're not using enough of it. You should be putting several tablespoons in your keyboard once a week or so to keep the keys from sticking, adding it to your lawnmower gas instead of 2-cycle oil, and your wife should put a 1/4 cup or so in the washing machine to get the grass stains out of the kids' pants, and also it's great for polishing silverware. And, evidently, if used with sufficient caution, can substitute for charcoal starter fluid or as a bad-neighbor removal tool. |
#26
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 16, 9:46 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
Smitty Two wrote: You're not using enough of it. You should be putting several tablespoons in your keyboard once a week or so to keep the keys from sticking, adding it to your lawnmower gas instead of 2-cycle oil, and your wife should put a 1/4 cup or so in the washing machine to get the grass stains out of the kids' pants, and also it's great for polishing silverware. And, evidently, if used with sufficient caution, can substitute for charcoal starter fluid or as a bad-neighbor removal tool. Here's why I buy it by the gallon: We all know you really only need 2 tools - If it's supposed to move but it doesn't, use WD-40. It it not supposed to move but it does, use duct tape. Now, how many of you know that WD-40 is great for removing the residue that duct tape leaves behind when you finally get around to fixing all those things you taped up? |
#27
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 15, 4:42 pm, Pat wrote:
On Jun 15, 4:17 pm, Father Haskell wrote: On Jun 15, 3:44 pm, Pat wrote: On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use that). It is hairspray. If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. You know of a spudgun fuel *less* explosive than hairspray (actually, the butane propellant)? I can't get my cannon to fire without vaporizing the potato. Usually it is just 3 short bursts for a shot. A burst being just enought get a spray -- maybe 1/4 seconds each. You're sliding the potatos in like a muzzleloader, aren't you? Well, yeah. Isn't compression a necessary part of the equation? BTW, Dixie cups make perfect blanks for a 2" PVC barrel. Sometimes, you just want to make noise to raise the dead. |
#28
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Proof?
-- Christopher A. Young You can't shout down a troll. You have to starve them. .. "Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... : : WD-40 is highly flammable! : : |
#29
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
What's the flash point?
-- Christopher A. Young You can't shout down a troll. You have to starve them. .. "Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... : : Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the : front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? : : The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) : : |
#30
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WD-40 in yard light sockets. and potatoe propellants
What brand?
Withe apologye toe Dane Quaylee whoe putse ane extrae lettere one potatoe. -- Christopher A. Young You can't shout down a troll. You have to starve them. .. "Pat" wrote in message oups.com... : : I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it : in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred : yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use : that). : : It is hairspray. : : If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. : |
#31
Posted to alt.home.repair
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 16, 10:25 pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jun 15, 4:42 pm, Pat wrote: On Jun 15, 4:17 pm, Father Haskell wrote: On Jun 15, 3:44 pm, Pat wrote: On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use that). It is hairspray. If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. You know of a spudgun fuel *less* explosive than hairspray (actually, the butane propellant)? I can't get my cannon to fire without vaporizing the potato. Usually it is just 3 short bursts for a shot. A burst being just enought get a spray -- maybe 1/4 seconds each. You're sliding the potatos in like a muzzleloader, aren't you? Well, yeah. Isn't compression a necessary part of the equation? BTW, Dixie cups make perfect blanks for a 2" PVC barrel. Sometimes, you just want to make noise to raise the dead. I don't really compress it. I slide it in first. It does create one heck of a seal, though. But I've never made french fries with it. The spud goes out in one piece. I got "the long way" on the potato so it's a good, solid hunk of flying flesh. I've often thought about putting some sort of groove in the barrel so I can get some rotation on it. they it would REALLY fly. |
#32
Posted to alt.home.repair
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message ups.com... [snip] We all know you really only need 2 tools - If it's supposed to move but it doesn't, use WD-40. It it not supposed to move but it does, use duct tape. Now, how many of you know that WD-40 is great for removing the residue that duct tape leaves behind when you finally get around to fixing all those things you taped up? Aha, thanks for the reminder -- I was just trying to figure out how to get the tape residue off an outdoor preformed pond, where I had duct-taped the underlayment to the pond to make backfilling easier! |
#33
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 15:25:33 -0400, Charlie Morgan
wrote: Although I have used it as described although I do the spraying before lighting the torch. It really doesn't even flare up good, mostly just smokes and sputters a little. The propellant is long gone, by the time one gets the torch lit, of course... No problem. I just want to make sure that the whole story gets told. I doubt you could initiate the China Syndrome with even a large can of the stuff. G There was a fad for a while of lighting the spray from hair spray. In college I somehow ended up with a used can of hairspray and I tried it. It was sort of scary. |
#34
Posted to alt.home.repair
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WD-40 in yard light sockets.
On Jun 16, 11:17 pm, Pat wrote:
On Jun 16, 10:25 pm, Father Haskell wrote: On Jun 15, 4:42 pm, Pat wrote: On Jun 15, 4:17 pm, Father Haskell wrote: On Jun 15, 3:44 pm, Pat wrote: On Jun 15, 3:16 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: ... WD-40 is highly flammable! Flammable, but not "highly" Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it? The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard) The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable. It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps) As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane. Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can: Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame, heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition. Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can away from electrical source or battery terminals. All I'm saying is what I know from experience-- I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use that). It is hairspray. If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray. You know of a spudgun fuel *less* explosive than hairspray (actually, the butane propellant)? I can't get my cannon to fire without vaporizing the potato. Usually it is just 3 short bursts for a shot. A burst being just enought get a spray -- maybe 1/4 seconds each. You're sliding the potatos in like a muzzleloader, aren't you? Well, yeah. Isn't compression a necessary part of the equation? BTW, Dixie cups make perfect blanks for a 2" PVC barrel. Sometimes, you just want to make noise to raise the dead. I don't really compress it. I slide it in first. It does create one heck of a seal, though. But I've never made french fries with it. The spud goes out in one piece. I got "the long way" on the potato so it's a good, solid hunk of flying flesh. Compression's easy. Taper the inside end of the barrel slightly with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper, so it punches out the spud correspondingly oversize. I've often thought about putting some sort of groove in the barrel so I can get some rotation on it. they it would REALLY fly. Range would be the same, accuracy would be better. I've seen rifled PVC barrels sold online for just this purpose. Not cheap, though. I wonder if you couldn't glue in a loose spiral-wound piece of wire pulled from a bit of Romex for the same effect. Hope it stays in after the third shot ;-) Could you cut fins from cardboard and install them into the spud at a slight helical pitch to add spin? |
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