Framing nailer & Roof Building question
 

Hey all,

I have two questions:

The first, I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few
jobs around the
house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
benefit in getting one degree over another?

The second, is that I am having a house built and the framers put
the wrong trusses on the house, it was supposed to have a tray ceiling
and they put trusses for a flat ceiling. The builder gave us three
options, one is to leave it like it is and get a refund of what we
paid for the tray. The second is to have an engineer check it out and
advise the framers how to build a tray onsite. and the third is to
order new trusses and rip the whole roof off and replace the trusses
and sheathing, which would delay the building proces a few weeks.

I know alittle about the building proces but need some expert
help and opinions on these two questions. Any help will be appreciated.

Framing nailer & Roof Building question
 

On Jun 14, 6:20 am, wrote:
Hey all,

I have two questions:

The first, I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few
jobs around the
house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
benefit in getting one degree over another?

The second, is that I am having a house built and the framers put
the wrong trusses on the house, it was supposed to have a tray ceiling
and they put trusses for a flat ceiling. The builder gave us three
options, one is to leave it like it is and get a refund of what we
paid for the tray. The second is to have an engineer check it out and
advise the framers how to build a tray onsite. and the third is to
order new trusses and rip the whole roof off and replace the trusses
and sheathing, which would delay the building proces a few weeks.

I know alittle about the building proces but need some expert
help and opinions on these two questions. Any help will be appreciated.

NR83A by Hitachi since you're not a production guy look for a used on
in good condition. I've had my for 20+ (rebuilt once), a very useful
tool

Porter Cable & Senco also

I prefer an angled nail tray in larger guns.




Your builder has given you three very reasonable options

how important is the tray ceiling to your overall happiness? are you
going to be bummed every time you see it not there?

if so, choose a fix...................

If you've got a good engineer, who you have faith in, go with his site
built fix but ask him how HE would feel about implementing such a fix
on HIS new home.

save "ripping it out option" for a really bad mistake. you'll earn
some points with the builder.


cheers
Bob

Framing nailer & Roof Building question
 

Ask the framers what their opinion is on nail guns.
"BobK207" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Jun 14, 6:20 am, wrote:
Hey all,

I have two questions:

The first, I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few
jobs around the
house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
benefit in getting one degree over another?

The second, is that I am having a house built and the framers put
the wrong trusses on the house, it was supposed to have a tray ceiling
and they put trusses for a flat ceiling. The builder gave us three
options, one is to leave it like it is and get a refund of what we
paid for the tray. The second is to have an engineer check it out and
advise the framers how to build a tray onsite. and the third is to
order new trusses and rip the whole roof off and replace the trusses
and sheathing, which would delay the building proces a few weeks.

I know alittle about the building proces but need some expert
help and opinions on these two questions. Any help will be appreciated.

NR83A by Hitachi since you're not a production guy look for a used on
in good condition. I've had my for 20+ (rebuilt once), a very useful
tool

Porter Cable & Senco also

I prefer an angled nail tray in larger guns.




Your builder has given you three very reasonable options

how important is the tray ceiling to your overall happiness? are you
going to be bummed every time you see it not there?

if so, choose a fix...................

If you've got a good engineer, who you have faith in, go with his site
built fix but ask him how HE would feel about implementing such a fix
on HIS new home.

save "ripping it out option" for a really bad mistake. you'll earn
some points with the builder.


cheers
Bob

Framing nailer & Roof Building question
 

On Jun 14, 8:20 am, wrote:
Hey all,

I have two questions:

The first, I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few
jobs around the
house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
benefit in getting one degree over another?

The second, is that I am having a house built and the framers put
the wrong trusses on the house, it was supposed to have a tray ceiling
and they put trusses for a flat ceiling. The builder gave us three
options, one is to leave it like it is and get a refund of what we
paid for the tray. The second is to have an engineer check it out and
advise the framers how to build a tray onsite. and the third is to
order new trusses and rip the whole roof off and replace the trusses
and sheathing, which would delay the building proces a few weeks.

I know alittle about the building proces but need some expert
help and opinions on these two questions. Any help will be appreciated.

If the wrong trusses were put on the house then tearing them off would
be the obvious solution. However, would this refund you mention
include the cost of the trusses and labor? Getting these items for
free would change the mind of many, myself included.

Framing a new roof doesn't sound too bad so long as it is done for
free!! In any case, the only thing you should have to pay for is what
is in the plan. Anything else has to be the responsiblity of the
builder. Keep a close eye on the builder after this. When a guy
takes a big loss like that he is looking for places to make it up,
preferable on your house.

Framing nailer & Roof Building question
 

On Jun 14, 10:24 am, "Jonas Grumby" wrote:
Ask the framers what their opinion is on nail guns."BobK207" wrote in message

ps.com...



On Jun 14, 6:20 am, wrote:
Hey all,

I have two questions:

The first, I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few
jobs around the
house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
benefit in getting one degree over another?

The second, is that I am having a house built and the framers put
the wrong trusses on the house, it was supposed to have a tray ceiling
and they put trusses for a flat ceiling. The builder gave us three
options, one is to leave it like it is and get a refund of what we
paid for the tray. The second is to have an engineer check it out and
advise the framers how to build a tray onsite. and the third is to
order new trusses and rip the whole roof off and replace the trusses
and sheathing, which would delay the building proces a few weeks.

I know alittle about the building proces but need some expert
help and opinions on these two questions. Any help will be appreciated.

NR83A by Hitachi since you're not a production guy look for a used on
in good condition. I've had my for 20+ (rebuilt once), a very useful
tool

Porter Cable & Senco also

I prefer an angled nail tray in larger guns.

Your builder has given you three very reasonable options

how important is the tray ceiling to your overall happiness? are you
going to be bummed every time you see it not there?

if so, choose a fix...................

If you've got a good engineer, who you have faith in, go with his site
built fix but ask him how HE would feel about implementing such a fix
on HIS new home.

save "ripping it out option" for a really bad mistake. you'll earn
some points with the builder.

cheers
Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Unfortunately most of them speak as much english as I speak spanish.

Framing nailer & Roof Building question
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey all,

I have two questions:

The first, I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few
jobs around the
house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
benefit in getting one degree over another?

I have a Bostitch Framing Nailer. It has built a lot of stuff for me and
not let me down.

The second, is that I am having a house built and the framers put
the wrong trusses on the house, it was supposed to have a tray ceiling
and they put trusses for a flat ceiling. The builder gave us three
options, one is to leave it like it is and get a refund of what we
paid for the tray. The second is to have an engineer check it out and
advise the framers how to build a tray onsite. and the third is to
order new trusses and rip the whole roof off and replace the trusses
and sheathing, which would delay the building proces a few weeks.

I know alittle about the building proces but need some expert
help and opinions on these two questions. Any help will be appreciated.

I would not delay and add risk to the project. Take the refund and learn to
be happy with the flat ceiling.