My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't let
those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

On Jun 12, 9:34 pm, "Toller" wrote:
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't let
those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

If dealing with a dealer does'nt he sell the oil , Other wise read the
manual and follow it Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small engines.

"jim" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 12, 9:34 pm, "Toller" wrote:
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets
the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil;
all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who
knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't
let
those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

If dealing with a dealer does'nt he sell the oil , Other wise read the
manual and follow it Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small engines.

Manual specifies 10w-30, only SFor SE; but I figure they haven't even been
made for years.

SL is newer and very much ok where SE or SF is specified. You see, "L"
comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards compatible.

--
Steve Barker







"Toller" wrote in message
...
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets
the auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a
generator also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all
I had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't
let those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
SL is newer and very much ok where SE or SF is specified. You see, "L"
comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards compatible.

But what if the engine isn't running backwards?

On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 02:45:26 GMT, "Toller" wrote:


"jim" wrote in message
roups.com...
On Jun 12, 9:34 pm, "Toller" wrote:
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets
the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil;
all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who
knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't
let
those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

If dealing with a dealer does'nt he sell the oil , Other wise read the
manual and follow it Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small engines.

Manual specifies 10w-30, only SFor SE; but I figure they haven't even been
made for years.

Exactly. SL includes SF.

On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 03:08:52 GMT, "Noozer" wrote:


"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
SL is newer and very much ok where SE or SF is specified. You see, "L"
comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards compatible.

But what if the engine isn't running backwards?

The engine doesn't have to run backwards. Just put the bike in
Reverse.

In that case just use 80w90

--
Steve Barker







"Noozer" wrote in message
news:8dJbi.18235$1i1.738@pd7urf3no...

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
SL is newer and very much ok where SE or SF is specified. You see, "L"
comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards compatible.

But what if the engine isn't running backwards?

On Jun 12, 8:34 pm, "Toller" wrote:
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't let
those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

As other say SL is the newest level oil and I expect exceeds all
previous.

I myself use nothing but 5W30 Mobil 1 in my Honda Generator and all
other air cooled engines. Air cooled engines usually run hotter and
Synthetics can take a lot more heat without breaking down. Another
advantage is that synthetics don't need the Viscosity Improvers (that
don't provide much lubrication). Don't worry about the 5W
classification. That means that at 32 F it has the same visosity as
straight 5 weight at that temperature. That is thicker than the oil
is when it is at operating temperature.

There are many web sites that get into extensive details about oil.
For example:


http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html

jim wrote:
On Jun 12, 9:34 pm, "Toller" wrote:
....

.. Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small engines.

That recommendation is a few years out of date. Many if not most small
engines manufactured today are designed for multi weight oil.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

Toller wrote:
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least"
meets the auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for
a generator also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF
oil; all I had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that
a claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w
for 3 seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone
there who knows what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil
is; they just don't let those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

The "S" means Spark (gasoline) [opposed to C which means compression
(diesel)]. The second letter is 100% backward compatible, that is the later
letters (what will be do when they hit Z?) The later oils can do
everything the earlier ones did and more.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

Rich256 wrote:
On Jun 12, 8:34 pm, "Toller" wrote:
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't let
those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

As other say SL is the newest level oil and I expect exceeds all
previous.

I myself use nothing but 5W30 Mobil 1 in my Honda Generator and all
other air cooled engines. Air cooled engines usually run hotter and
Synthetics can take a lot more heat without breaking down. Another
advantage is that synthetics don't need the Viscosity Improvers (that
don't provide much lubrication). Don't worry about the 5W
classification. That means that at 32 F it has the same visosity as
straight 5 weight at that temperature. That is thicker than the oil
is when it is at operating temperature.

This is top-notch advice on the synthetic.

SL supersedes & replaces all SK & earlier rated oils and is fine.

Rob



There are many web sites that get into extensive details about oil.
For example:


http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html

Ask this question on http://groups.google.com/group/rec.m...off=1&safe=off.

You'll get a lot of more informed opinions.

Tom

tomit wrote:
Ask this question on http://groups.google.com/group/rec.m...off=1&safe=off.

You'll get a lot of more informed opinions.

Tom


What question?
Who are you responding to?
What are you talking about?

Rob

For air cooled engines, it's important to use a good quality oil.
Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled. My fav is
Castrol. So a good name brand is more important than the S
rating. Other good brands I like are Penzoil, Mobil, and Exxon.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Toller" wrote in message
...
: My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at
least" meets the
: auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a
generator
: also?
:
: I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or
SF oil; all I
: had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?
:
: I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to
verify that a
: claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do
3500w for 3
: seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone
there who knows
: what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they
just don't let
: those people talk to customers.
:
: Thanks.
:
:

Briggs and Stratton reccomends.... HD30 weight for summer, and
10W30 for all year round use.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"jim" wrote in message
oups.com...
:
: If dealing with a dealer does'nt he sell the oil , Other wise
read the
: manual and follow it Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small
engines.
:

Then you'd need LS oil, or ES or FS oil. Maybe even GS.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Noozer" wrote in message
news:8dJbi.18235$1i1.738@pd7urf3no...
:
: "Steve Barker" wrote in message
: ...
: SL is newer and very much ok where SE or SF is specified.
You see, "L"
: comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards
compatible.
:
: But what if the engine isn't running backwards?
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:

Or 03w01? That should be backwards compatible.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
: In that case just use 80w90
:
: --
: Steve Barker
:
: comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards
compatible.
:
: But what if the engine isn't running backwards?
:
:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
For air cooled engines, it's important to use a good quality oil.
Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled. My fav is
Castrol. So a good name brand is more important than the S
rating. Other good brands I like are Penzoil, Mobil, and Exxon.

Any engine needs a oil of at least the quality specified...air-cooled or no.

As for the name on the can, if it meets a specified API/SAE grade, it
meets the grade. The rest is advertising hype for the most part.

That said, there are a few oils I _won't_ use -- QS is one. No way to
prove it really had anything to do with it, but I had a Chevy 350 throw
a rod w/ it -- when opened it up, the top of the head was 2 inches deep
in sludge and blocking the oiling holes so it wasn't getting any oil at
all down no's 7 & 8 and the rest were ready...never overheated, always
changed on schedule, etc., etc., ... But, at 50k, it had to have
complete rebuild. I've run those engines routinely for 150k or more and
that's the only one ever to have had an early failure.

--

Stormin Mormon wrote:
For air cooled engines, it's important to use a good quality oil.
Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled. My fav is
Castrol. So a good name brand is more important than the S
rating. Other good brands I like are Penzoil, Mobil, and Exxon.


Also for an air cooled/flat tappet engine you might want to look for a
"fleet" oil (both gasoline and Diesel rated) and also one NOT rated CJ-4
(the latest Diesel rating.) The newest oils actually have fewer zinc
compounds (usually ZDDP, an anti-wear additive) per the new specs.

A motorcycle oil might be a good choice, as well...

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

For what that is worth...
"jim" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 12, 9:34 pm, "Toller" wrote:
My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets
the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil;
all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who
knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't
let
those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

If dealing with a dealer does'nt he sell the oil , Other wise read the
manual and follow it Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small engines.

I've seen the same symptoms with QS.

--
Steve Barker







"dpb" wrote in message ...
the top of the head was 2 inches deep
in sludge and blocking the oiling holes so it wasn't getting any oil at
all --

dpb wrote:

That said, there are a few oils I _won't_ use -- QS is one. No way to
prove it really had anything to do with it, but I had a Chevy 350 throw
a rod w/ it -- when opened it up, the top of the head was 2 inches deep
in sludge and blocking the oiling holes so it wasn't getting any oil at
all down no's 7 & 8 and the rest were ready...never overheated, always
changed on schedule, etc., etc., ...

Conversly, I rebuilt a Chevy 350 that had been run on Havoline for 90k
miles. It was shiney inside with little-to-no sludge. Guess that's
why the oil looks black after 500 miles - it's really collecting those
deposits.

KC