I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"

The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.

DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




wrote in message
oups.com...
I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester,"
an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I
have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it
Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas
basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol,
looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a
squashed
upside down U).

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2.
V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV
or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current
flowing and
if there is, how much?

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last
March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I
can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"

In article ,
"DanG" wrote:

The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.

DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)






Let's not confuse the OP anymore than he already is. Micro amps *is*
current. So he *should* use that setting for current -- but by putting
the probes in series with the flow of electricity. Now you tell him to
check for the presence of current, he should set it on voltage. Sorry,
but voltage and current are decidedly not the same. Using incorrect
terminology isn't going to clear up any confusion.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"DanG" wrote:

The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.

DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive

....


Let's not confuse the OP anymore than he already is. Micro amps *is*
current. So he *should* use that setting for current -- but by putting
the probes in series with the flow of electricity. Now you tell him to
check for the presence of current, he should set it on voltage. Sorry,
but voltage and current are decidedly not the same. Using incorrect
terminology isn't going to clear up any confusion.

Amen...the "continuity" tester is actually an ohmmeter, also. A
continuity tester is for resistance, granted, but it is only a pass/fail
reading and not what an analog VOM will provide.

Also, OP should be cautioned to _NOT_ try to test household currents
with this meter -- it simply is not designed for such high currents and
at best he'll get away w/ simply blowing the input fuse if he tries...

--

On Jun 9, 12:08 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,





"DanG" wrote:
The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.

DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


Let's not confuse the OP anymore than he already is. Micro amps *is*
current. So he *should* use that setting for current -- but by putting
the probes in series with the flow of electricity. Now you tell him to
check for the presence of current, he should set it on voltage. Sorry,
but voltage and current are decidedly not the same. Using incorrect
terminology isn't going to clear up any confusion.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh, man, Now I am getting a headache.....OUCH...GRIN

So, looking at my meter I see ACV. At the top of the settings for it
is 250 with a subset of 1KV (I guess).

At the bottom of the ACV area is 10.

So I plug my red plug into AC 1KV and my black into COM and set the
dial at 100 in the ACV area? So, then to measure a house current, I
touch the black lead to the black wire and the red to the white wire
(that's my choice in my "current" problem). So, what should the
needle on the dial do during this if all is well?

In article .com,
wrote:

On Jun 9, 12:08 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,





"DanG" wrote:
The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.

DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


Let's not confuse the OP anymore than he already is. Micro amps *is*
current. So he *should* use that setting for current -- but by putting
the probes in series with the flow of electricity. Now you tell him to
check for the presence of current, he should set it on voltage. Sorry,
but voltage and current are decidedly not the same. Using incorrect
terminology isn't going to clear up any confusion.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh, man, Now I am getting a headache.....OUCH...GRIN

So, looking at my meter I see ACV. At the top of the settings for it
is 250 with a subset of 1KV (I guess).

At the bottom of the ACV area is 10.

So I plug my red plug into AC 1KV and my black into COM and set the
dial at 100 in the ACV area? So, then to measure a house current, I
touch the black lead to the black wire and the red to the white wire
(that's my choice in my "current" problem). So, what should the
needle on the dial do during this if all is well?

A link to a high quality photograph of your meter, posted anywhere you
like on the web, would make this a lot easier.

wrote:
On Jun 9, 12:08 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,





"DanG" wrote:
The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.
I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.
DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)

Let's not confuse the OP anymore than he already is. Micro amps *is*
current. So he *should* use that setting for current -- but by putting
the probes in series with the flow of electricity. Now you tell him to
check for the presence of current, he should set it on voltage. Sorry,
but voltage and current are decidedly not the same. Using incorrect
terminology isn't going to clear up any confusion.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh, man, Now I am getting a headache.....OUCH...GRIN

So, looking at my meter I see ACV. At the top of the settings for it
is 250 with a subset of 1KV (I guess).

At the bottom of the ACV area is 10.

So I plug my red plug into AC 1KV and my black into COM and set the
dial at 100 in the ACV area? So, then to measure a house current, I
touch the black lead to the black wire and the red to the white wire
(that's my choice in my "current" problem). So, what should the
needle on the dial do during this if all is well?

You need the dial indication at whatever in the ACV range is greater
than 120 -- probably 250 or 300 or something like that. If you set it
at 100, since AC household voltage is 120 VAC, it will "peg" the dial to
the right -- no damage done, and you'll know you have voltage but it
won't be an accurate measurement. Might as well get in the habit from
the start.

When you're on ACV you're measuring "VOLTAGE", not current. (And, as
I've posted in several responses, you can't measure household currents
w/ this meter -- it doesn't have the range required).

As for what the needle should do, if you have voltage, it will go to the
value corresponding to roughly 120 assuming you're on a scale that isn't
overranged. If there's no voltage present, it will stay at zero. (In a
really unusual case of something else bizarre going on you could get
another reading besides those two, but that's highly unlikely in this
case -- you're simply trying to find out if the circuit is on or off...

HTH

--

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"

It would be helpful if you could post a picture of your multimeter or a
link. Your description is confusing.

The four jacks are understandable, but the range selections seem wrong.

One uses the common (COM) jack for all measurements. Jack 2 is for
measuring volts and resistance and current. Jack 3 is for measuring ac
voltages up to 1,000 volts. Jack 4 is for measuring dc voltages up to 1,000
volts. Your meter might not be able to measure ac current. Usually, one
uses the volts function when troubleshooting housewiring. If the power is
off, the resistance function can also be used for troubleshooting.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 11:39:06 -0700, wrote:

I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

Read to the end before using the meter. It seems complicated, but
after a few times it will look more and more simple.

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

AC is for alternating current, such as house current.

DC is for direct current, such as what comes from batteries and almost
all of the voltages in a radio or tv. (The places electrically close
to the wall cord of a radio or tv are going to be AC, but it gets
changed to DC soon after.)

The V in 1 and 2 stands for voltage**. That's what you are
interested in in the other thread. Is there any voltage available?
Use the ACV If the needle moves at all, you probably have the right
voltage, but later, I'll probably get to how to measure how much
voltage there is.

In switch location 3, the U is probably a Greek mu. It looks like a
lower case n upside down. Like a u but with the tail on the bottom
left and not the bottom right. In text, where people don't have Greek
fonts, they will use a plain old English u. Mu is short for micro.
The A is for amp, a measure of the amount of current** So position 3
is for measure DC micro-amps. In practice, you won't need to measure
amps much, only volts and ohms. Details of how to measure all of them
further down.

Switch location 4 is, you're right, an omega. Which is an O in Greek,
and was chosen, not by Greek speakers, to represent Ohms. (Ohm was an
early scientist who worked on electricity, as were Volta, Ampere,
Faraday, and Henry.) Ohms are a measure of resistance to electric
flow. NEVER measure using the ohms scale before you have measured
with the voltage scale. You want that there is NO voltage when trying
to measure ohms. The thing is unplugged, for example. At best, you
won't get the right answer if there even a small voltage present, and
at worst it's easy to burn out the meter, or one resistor in it.
Then, even if you can fix the meter, and maybe no one can, you'll need
another meter to fix it with!

Meters in 1980 might have had some overvoltage protection, but you
want to get in the right habits and not rely on that. For one thing,
I'm sure it's not always enough, even when it's there.

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

3 is only for AC voltages over 1000. You'll probably never need
this.

4 is only for DC voltages over 1000. Outside of a tv, you'll
probably never have this.

3 and 4 are holes for the red wire. The black wire always stays in 1,
the Com hole.

So that means you'll use 1 and 2 for everything else. Put the black
wire in 1 and the red wire in 2. Sometimes I put an alligator clip on
the black wire, instead of the probe. Then I need one fewer hand to
use the meter. (Or you can buy a bag of 10 wires with alligator clips
on each end, at Radio Shack. 5 colors, two of each, costs 2, 3 or 4
dollars. Many many uses, including attaching the negative probe of a
meter to something, such as a known ground.

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?

What you probably want to do is measure if there is voltage present.
It's too inconvenient to measure directly for current. In fact,
you'll notice that you don't even have an ACA scale. Most meters
don't, and that is still true today.

If there is voltage, you can turn off the voltage at the breaker, or
disconnect those wires you connected, the black and white, and measure
the resistance of the fan/thermostat combination. If the needle
moves, with the first knob in posistion 4, ohms, and the other know in
the Rx100 or Rx1000 setting or any setting, you have "continuity",
there is a continuous path for the electricity to go through.

If the needle doesn't move at all, you want to narrow the problem
down, by checking the thermostat first and then the motor, to see
which one is "open", a break in the path of electricity.

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"


**There are enormous similarities between electricy in wires and water
in pipes. When looked at this way, Voltage is equivalent to water
pressure; Amperage (current) is equivalent to gallons per minute; and
Ohms or resistance is eqivalent to the resistance to water flow of the
pipes. That is, smaller diameter pipes have more resistance than
bigger diameter pipes


How much is the meter showing there is.

The full scale reading will have a number, like 100 maybe, so if the
needle is deflected full scale, and the X1, X100 switch is on X1,
you'll be showing 100 units of whatever you are measuring. 100 volts,
100 ohms, 100 microamps

Got to stop now. Continued later if possible. There is enough here
for you to get started.

If not, ask questions.

Jose Queero wrote:
....


But you have not specified whether or not this is household voltage,
or a car - which is 12VDC.

OP is trying to diagnose a non-running attic fan -- you didn't catch the
earlier thread or the first post here that referenced it -- most of the
other respondents were in on the first so knew context...

But, you're right that he shouldn't be trying to measure current and
I've emphasized that in a half-dozen posts by now...I'm _hoping_ he's
read at least one of them but no indication so far he has...

--

In article ,
Jose Queero wrote:

wrote:

Oh, man, Now I am getting a headache.....OUCH...GRIN

So, looking at my meter I see ACV. At the top of the settings for it
is 250 with a subset of 1KV (I guess).

At the bottom of the ACV area is 10.

So I plug my red plug into AC 1KV and my black into COM and set the
dial at 100 in the ACV area? So, then to measure a house current, I
touch the black lead to the black wire and the red to the white wire
(that's my choice in my "current" problem). So, what should the
needle on the dial do during this if all is well?

sigh

In order to measure current (AMPS) you need to break ONE leg of the
circuit and place the meter in "series" with the circuit.

No offence, but doing so would require something that is potentially
very dangerous if you are new to this (on a 110V household
application). And I would HIGHLY recommend another means, depending
on what you are trying to accomplish.

If you want to measure VOLTAGE, that is another story.

But you have not specified whether or not this is household voltage,
or a car - which is 12VDC.

Well, most cars don't have attic fans.

On Jun 9, 12:59 pm, dpb wrote:
Jose Queero wrote:

...

But you have not specified whether or not this is household voltage,
or a car - which is 12VDC.

OP is trying to diagnose a non-running attic fan -- you didn't catch the
earlier thread or the first post here that referenced it -- most of the
other respondents were in on the first so knew context...

But, you're right that he shouldn't be trying to measure current and
I've emphasized that in a half-dozen posts by now...I'm _hoping_ he's
read at least one of them but no indication so far he has...

--

Yeah, I actually did read your caution.....just trying to get through
my head the diff. between current and voltage, etc. LOL.

Don't worry, I don't tend to do this stuff half-baked (at least not
anymore). As to questions about the meter. Heck, it looks like all
the ones in the pictures in my book, as well as the ones I have found
on the web with some subtle differences (placement of holes to plug
in, etc.). It's nothing exotic, A Sears special. I think it cost
around $25 in 1981. It has a fuse and a spot for an AA battery. I
think I had to replace the fuse once....Maybe I was trying to measure
the wrong thing and blew it....probably.

Thanks again for the caution, as well as the help in the fan thread....

"mm" wrote in message

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2.
V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

3 is only for AC voltages over 1000. You'll probably never need
this.

4 is only for DC voltages over 1000. Outside of a tv, you'll
probably never have this.

Are you sure about this? I seriously doubt that an old meter like this
is designed to measure multiple thousands of volts. This is probably a
1000 volt max range.

Bob

On Jun 9, 12:54 pm, mm wrote:
What you probably want to do is measure if there is voltage present.
It's too inconvenient to measure directly for current. In fact,
you'll notice that you don't even have an ACA scale. Most meters
don't, and that is still true today.


I am so close to almost "clicking" (ie, understanding) this it is
painful.....THANKS MUCH. Your explaination is great

However, remember I am a babbling idiot here....so when you say:

If there is voltage, you can turn off the voltage at the breaker, or
disconnect those wires you connected, the black and white, and measure
the resistance of the fan/thermostat combination. If the needle
moves, with the first knob in posistion 4, ohms, and the other know in
the Rx100 or Rx1000 setting or any setting, you have "continuity",
there is a continuous path for the electricity to go through.

How exactly do I do this...that is measure the resistance of the fan
thermostat combo.....do I touch the meter probe to the disconnected
"house" black wire and then to the thermo connection? Or is it some
combo of black house wire, black fan wire, white house wire....well
you get the idea, I am sure...I hope.

And again, thanks. you have already put me way ahead of the
instruction book....

In article . com,
wrote:

On Jun 9, 12:59 pm, dpb wrote:
Jose Queero wrote:

...

But you have not specified whether or not this is household voltage,
or a car - which is 12VDC.

OP is trying to diagnose a non-running attic fan -- you didn't catch the
earlier thread or the first post here that referenced it -- most of the
other respondents were in on the first so knew context...

But, you're right that he shouldn't be trying to measure current and
I've emphasized that in a half-dozen posts by now...I'm _hoping_ he's
read at least one of them but no indication so far he has...

--

Yeah, I actually did read your caution.....just trying to get through
my head the diff. between current and voltage, etc. LOL.

Don't worry, I don't tend to do this stuff half-baked (at least not
anymore). As to questions about the meter. Heck, it looks like all
the ones in the pictures in my book, as well as the ones I have found
on the web with some subtle differences (placement of holes to plug
in, etc.). It's nothing exotic, A Sears special. I think it cost
around $25 in 1981. It has a fuse and a spot for an AA battery. I
think I had to replace the fuse once....Maybe I was trying to measure
the wrong thing and blew it....probably.

Thanks again for the caution, as well as the help in the fan thread....

Here's the trouble: Your description of the meter is lacking. Without a
picture, we can't tell you *exactly* how to use it. All we can say is,
plug the probes into the appropriate jacks, set the dial to the
appropriate function, and read the appropriate scale on the meter - I'm
guessing it's analog. Let us know when you get that fan running!

On Jun 9, 1:19 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
"mm" wrote in message

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2.
V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

3 is only for AC voltages over 1000. You'll probably never need
this.

4 is only for DC voltages over 1000. Outside of a tv, you'll
probably never have this.

Are you sure about this? I seriously doubt that an old meter like this
is designed to measure multiple thousands of volts. This is probably a
1000 volt max range.

Bob

From the manual:
Ranges: 27
DC Voltage 0-0.25-1-2.5-10-25-100-250-1000V

AC Voltage: 0-10-25-100-250-1000V

DC Current: 0-50-500U A, 5mA-50mA-500mA

Resistance 0-6K Omega (midscale 30 Omega)
0-60K Omega (midscale 300 Omega)
0-600K Omega (midscale 3K Omega)
Decibels (HUH I thought that was sound)
-22dB ~ +22dB ~ + 62dB in 5

Sensitivity 20,000 ohms/volts DC
10,000 homs/volt AC

Fuse 0.5A, 250 V 32mm

On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 13:54:12 -0500, "DanG" wrote:

The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

While we're nitpicking your post, "wide open" is not clear.

When he touches the leads togeher while the meter is in position 4,
ohms, the needle should go all the way to the right.

BTW, OP there is a knob or the edge of a knob that you can use to move
the needle so that it sits on the right-most line of the scale, Zero
on the ohms scale (marked with an omega at one or both ends) to
calibrate the ohm scale. This needs to be done because unlike the
other measurements, this will vary as your battery gets weaker.

But if you are only checking for continuity, the meter doesn't have to
be that accurate.

On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 15:49:09 -0400, "Charles"
wrote:


wrote in message
roups.com...
I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"

It would be helpful if you could post a picture of your multimeter or a
link. Your description is confusing.

The four jacks are understandable, but the range selections seem wrong.

One uses the common (COM) jack for all measurements. Jack 2 is for
measuring volts and resistance and current. Jack 3 is for measuring ac
voltages up to 1,000 volts. Jack 4 is for measuring dc voltages up to 1,000
volts.

Yes, you're right. I said OVER but should have said UP TO.

But he still won't have any use for jacks 3 and 4 most likely because
all the voltages he will find will be easier to read with the red wire
in jack 2, and the right scale chosen.

Maybe I'm wrong. Does anyone actually use the 1000 volt AC scale for
house current?

Your meter might not be able to measure ac current. Usually, one
uses the volts function when troubleshooting housewiring. If the power is
off, the resistance function can also be used for troubleshooting.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 12:27:40 -0700, wrote:


Oh, man, Now I am getting a headache.....OUCH...GRIN

So, looking at my meter I see ACV. At the top of the settings for it
is 250 with a subset of 1KV (I guess).

Are you talking about increments of the scale?

Is the scale arranged top to bottom, unlike most that are curved and
left to right (or right to left). Or do you mean where the knob is.

Normally the same scale is used for more than one setting of the X10
,X100 switch, and the meaning of the values depends on where the
switch is set. You take what is written on the scale and multiply it
by the 10 or 100 that the swtich is set to.

At the bottom of the ACV area is 10.

So I plug my red plug into AC 1KV and my black into COM and set the

You're forgiven because my long post has a mistake and because it
hadn't been posted when you posted this, but if you use the 1K jack,
110 volts will only get the needle 1/10th of the way across the scale,
and it will be hard to read. Generally you should use jack 2, and the
right mulitplier to get the needle farther across the scale, a half or
more.

dial at 100 in the ACV area?

That knob, 10,100, etc. has no effect when you have plugged the red
wire into 3 or 4. 3 and 4 only have one setting, 1000volts for full
scale.

So, then to measure a house current, I
touch the black lead to the black wire and the red to the white wire
(that's my choice in my "current" problem). So, what should the
needle on the dial do during this if all is well?

As you have it, about 10% of the way across, 110/1000.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 13:04:47 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:



If you want to measure VOLTAGE, that is another story.

But you have not specified whether or not this is household voltage,
or a car - which is 12VDC.

Well, most cars don't have attic fans.

I drive a convertible, so I don't know what other cars have.

On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 13:19:38 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


"mm" wrote in message

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2.
V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

3 is only for AC voltages over 1000. You'll probably never need
this.

4 is only for DC voltages over 1000. Outside of a tv, you'll
probably never have this.

Are you sure about this? I seriously doubt that an old meter like this
is designed to measure multiple thousands of volts. This is probably a
1000 volt max range.

You're right. I was wrong. For voltage up to 1000.

But he'll still never need these scales because 110 and 220 are easier
to read on the regular scale with the range set right.

Bob

On Jun 9, 1:47 pm, Jose Queero wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:
But you have not specified whether or not this is household voltage,
or a car - which is 12VDC.

Well, most cars don't have attic fans.

No **** Smitty?

Just how the hell was I supposed to know he was working on an attic
fan? HUH? Am I supposed to read all 30,000 messages in here then
connect the dots? HUH?

It was only until "drp" dropped his note that I realized this was an
OP whom knows nothing about Usenet (keeping his question threaded, or
repeat the relevant information in a new thread), and was repeatedly
given warnings on safety.

Now I know what a retard you are too. Two birds with one stone, eh..
Smitty?

OP here. Well, I've been using Usenet for some 12 years, but must
admit I am not using my usual "computer," and am using Google to post
on Usenet. So, if I have made some errors please forgive.

As for relevant information, while this his sorta of leaned toward the
attic fan question (which I alluded to when I opened this post), I
would really like to know how to use this stupid meter for everything
around the house (and car, which is why I originally bought it),
rather than just my "current" fan problem.

Yes, I do admit to being a "retard" in electricity. No secret there,
read my posts. LOL. And I do appreciate your help as well as the
patience and help of all others who have posted here. If I wasn't so
thick-headed, I am sure I could figure this out easier.

And, I am not ignoring the warnings. I am trying to visualize them. I
won't be using the meter until I do figure it out. Unlike the old
days when I switched plugs, scales, etc. willy-nilly trying to get
some sort of reading.

Have to admit, tho., I think what saved me was almost all of that was
done on car circuits or on appliances that were not plugged in at the
time.....

So, thanks again, all. Hate to see this get into one of those name-
calling sort of threads tho....

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article .com,
wrote:

On Jun 9, 12:08 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,





"DanG" wrote:
The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.

DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


Let's not confuse the OP anymore than he already is. Micro amps *is*
current. So he *should* use that setting for current -- but by putting
the probes in series with the flow of electricity. Now you tell him to
check for the presence of current, he should set it on voltage. Sorry,
but voltage and current are decidedly not the same. Using incorrect
terminology isn't going to clear up any confusion.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh, man, Now I am getting a headache.....OUCH...GRIN

So, looking at my meter I see ACV. At the top of the settings for it
is 250 with a subset of 1KV (I guess).

At the bottom of the ACV area is 10.

So I plug my red plug into AC 1KV and my black into COM and set the
dial at 100 in the ACV area? So, then to measure a house current, I
touch the black lead to the black wire and the red to the white wire
(that's my choice in my "current" problem). So, what should the
needle on the dial do during this if all is well?

A link to a high quality photograph of your meter, posted anywhere you
like on the web, would make this a lot easier.

I second that.

wrote in
oups.com:

I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

ACV= AC voltage,what comes out of your home electric outlets.
DCV is DC voltage,,your car battery is DCV. (DC= direct curernt,meaing not
alternating current[AC].
Voltage is measured across the source.(parallel)

DCuA is DC current,uA= microamps(u= micro,small m= milli).
your meter should have several current ranges,the meter has to be in SERIES
with the current source.

Omega = OHMS, resistance measurement,or "continuity".
DONT apply any voltage or current in this mode,you will damage your meter.

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

COM= common,volts,amps and ohms share this terminal,usually the negative
side (black wire/lead)
V-A is volts/amps,the RED or positive lead.
AC 1KV is the 1000 volts range,high voltage,DC 1KV is for DC high volts.
these are separate jacks for safety reasons,to remind you you are working
on high voltage.


And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

Rx1 is ohms scale reading times a multiplier of ONE. Rx10 would be the
scale reading times TEN,Rx100 times 100,etc.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"


Yes,but the meter will tell you how much "juice". IOW,the voltage could be
low,like a 12V car battery that only reads 10V.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

OP here.
As for relevant information, while this his sorta of leaned toward the
attic fan question (which I alluded to when I opened this post), I
would really like to know how to use this stupid meter for everything
around the house (and car, which is why I originally bought it),
rather than just my "current" fan problem.

You can use it in all kinds of ways. But, you do have to learn some basics.

And, I am not ignoring the warnings. I am trying to visualize them. I
won't be using the meter until I do figure it out. Unlike the old
days when I switched plugs, scales, etc. willy-nilly trying to get
some sort of reading.

You should learn the safety rules first. The resistance function is for
non-energized circuits and your fingers should not be touching hot
terminals.

Have to admit, tho., I think what saved me was almost all of that was
done on car circuits or on appliances that were not plugged in at the
time.....

The resistance function (a continuity test) is appropriate then.

So, thanks again, all. Hate to see this get into one of those name-
calling sort of threads tho....

This is becoming more and more prevalent as the kooks discover the Internet
and become bored with TV.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 13:20:17 -0700, wrote:

On Jun 9, 12:54 pm, mm wrote:
What you probably want to do is measure if there is voltage present.
It's too inconvenient to measure directly for current. In fact,
you'll notice that you don't even have an ACA scale. Most meters
don't, and that is still true today.


I am so close to almost "clicking" (ie, understanding) this it is
painful.....THANKS MUCH. Your explaination is great

However, remember I am a babbling idiot here....so when you say:

If there is voltage, you can turn off the voltage at the breaker, or
disconnect those wires you connected, the black and white, and measure
the resistance of the fan/thermostat combination. If the needle
moves, with the first knob in posistion 4, ohms, and the other know in
the Rx100 or Rx1000 setting or any setting, you have "continuity",
there is a continuous path for the electricity to go through.

How exactly do I do this...that is measure the resistance of the fan
thermostat combo.....do I touch the meter probe to the disconnected
"house" black wire and then to the thermo connection? Or is it some

(Read the whole thing before going to test)

That's pretty much the second step.

The first step was: One probe to the black wire that was disconnected
from the house (the wire that goes to the thermostat) AND the other
probe to the white wire from the fan motor. (whether connected to the
house white wire or not.)

This is an easier test to make, and if the needle moves, it means that
BOTH the fan and stat are conducting electricity.

But only if the needle moves are you done with this part.

More likely is that the needle won't move and then you have to narrow
it down to the motor or the stat.

Then you want to do pretty much what you say above "..do I touch the
meter probe to the disconnected "house" black wire and then to the
thermo connection?" Except not if you mean by "house" black wire, the
wire from the house. You want to use the wire from the thermostat.
And you have to find the thermo connection to the motor.

BUT, NONE OF THIS WILL WORK WHILE THE TEMP IS COLDER THAN THE MINIMUM
STAT SETTING. If it is 55, the stat is open, the contacts are not
touching, the current can't go through. Even with the stat set to 60.
No one wants his attic fan going on when it is 55 inside the attic,
and even if it is warmer than that, since attics are often warmer than
the outside..... Well maybe it is over 60 in the attic, so take
another thermometer up there with you and see what that says.
Remember taht the stat can be off a few degrees and the thermometer
could be off a degree or two in the other direction.

This is why I suggested bypassing the stat, to see that the motor
runs. In some cases another method would be to point a heater at a
thermostat.

You might also maybe be able to peak into the thermostat and see the
contacts, and see that they get closer together when you turn the stat
towards 60 from higher.



BTW, not only do I have a swtich to turn the fan off in the winter,
but I have one to turn it on even when it would other wise be off,
recommened for people who get too much humidity in their attics from
using the shower a lot with an indadueate batheroom fan.

That swithc bypasses the thermostat, so it must be pretty easy in my
model to bypass the thermostat and maybe yours.


combo of black house wire, black fan wire, white house wire....well
you get the idea, I am sure...I hope.

And again, thanks. you have already put me way ahead of the
instruction book....

BTW, in your post in answer to BobF, you write things like midsacle 30
Omega. The omega is read as "ohms", 0-6K ohms. Omega is the Greek
letter and it is the symbol for ohms, or ohm if there is one or less.

Beware. Some jackass is posting under your name, Jose. Maybe you can
report him to the abuse address and that will stop him.


On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 16:02:12 -0500, Jose Queero
wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

Here's the trouble: Your description of the meter is lacking. Without a
picture, we can't tell you *exactly* how to use it. All we can say is,
plug the probes into the appropriate jacks, set the dial to the
appropriate function, and read the appropriate scale on the meter - I'm
guessing it's analog. Let us know when you get that fan running!

Great advice, snot****ed ****.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 14:26:05 -0500, dpb wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"DanG" wrote:

The upside down U - Omega is a continuity tester. DO NOT have it
in this position if there is any current involved, it will fry the
meter. This setting demands a battery inside your tester. When
you touch the two leads together you should read wide open.

I assume you want to measure AC current in the house. Set it on
ACV. Set the scale multiplier to be able to read what you think
should be in the circuit. If you are measuring 110 volts, make
sure you are on a scale that has 110 about in the middle.

DCV same game, direct current - e.g., automotive

...


Let's not confuse the OP anymore than he already is. Micro amps *is*
current. So he *should* use that setting for current -- but by putting
the probes in series with the flow of electricity. Now you tell him to
check for the presence of current, he should set it on voltage. Sorry,
but voltage and current are decidedly not the same. Using incorrect
terminology isn't going to clear up any confusion.

Amen...the "continuity" tester is actually an ohmmeter, also. A
continuity tester is for resistance, granted, but it is only a pass/fail
reading and not what an analog VOM will provide.

Also, OP should be cautioned to _NOT_ try to test household currents
with this meter -- it simply is not designed for such high currents and
at best he'll get away w/ simply blowing the input fuse if he tries...

A lot of these meters don't have very high current ranges. The limit
is probably around 200uA (.0002A). Also, those ranges may be for DC
only. There MAY be a fuse to protect the meter against higher current.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

Finding the keyboard operational
entered:

I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"

Try http://colomar.com/Shavano/vom.html and read the Testing AC Power
section.
Ignore the ohms (upsidedown squased U) and the amps settings. Voltage and
power are 2 different things. For right now, ignore current (amps).
IF you are still unclear on how to use your meter then doen't use it. You
will be exposed to voltages that can kill you.
Another suggestion is to go to Radio Shack and buy a cheap digital meter and
read the instruction booklet. While you are there see if the salesclerk can
show you how to useyour analog meter.
Bob

--�
--�
Coffee worth staying up for - NY Times
www.moondoggiecoffee.com

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 13:27:57 -0700, wrote:


From the manual:
Ranges: 27
DC Voltage 0-0.25-1-2.5-10-25-100-250-1000V

This almost certainly means that there will be at the far end of the
scale, opposite from where the needle normally rests, the numbers 25
and 10.

25 will mean different things for different settings of that switch.
It will mean either .25, 2.5, 25, or 250.

There will also be other numbers midrange, the same color and the same
positioning relative to the other numbers as the 25, that help you to
read lower values, probably 5, 10, 15, and 20.

10 will also mean different things for different settings of that
switch, either 1, 10, or 100, and if the 1000 volt jack is used 1000.

There will aslo be other numbers midrange, the same color as the 10,
maybe 2, 4, 6, and 8. The positioning helps you keep track which set
of numbers you want to look at, based on the swtich setting you chose.

AC Voltage: 0-10-25-100-250-1000V

Same thing as above. IIRC, on some meters, 25 for AC doesn't show up
in the same place as 25 for DC, for example, but the color coding
should make it clear which is which. Or there will be ~ to represent
AC current on the AC scale. AC scale number are usually red for some
reason, iirc.

DC Current: 0-50-500U A, 5mA-50mA-500mA

Each of these is ten times more than the one to the left. Including
that 5mA is 10 times 5uA. Stop using a capital U and use a lower case
u instead. If your manual uses an upper case U, it's wrong. (probably
printed in Japan, and no one really skilled wants the manual writing
job.) A capital mu in Greek looks like a capital M in English. Only a
lower case mu looks pretty much like a u, a lower case u. (Look in the
dictionary under "alphabet" for important alphabets.

Resistance 0-6K Omega (midscale 30 Omega)
0-60K Omega (midscale 300 Omega)
0-600K Omega (midscale 3K Omega)

This is usually measured on a different scale, with an omega at one or
both ends, the scale is usually black and closer to the pivot of the
needle than the others. It will not have a 6 at either end because
the left end is infinity and the right end is zero. There is a knob
or the edge of a knob with which to "zero the meter", by touching the
leads together and turning the knob until the needle is above the zero
mark.

Decibels (HUH I thought that was sound)
-22dB ~ +22dB ~ + 62dB in 5

It's also ratios, though I have never used and don't know how to use
the decibel scale.

For 25 dollars, you got a good meter. Not the best of course but not
junk either. Probably has a mirror? Do you know how to use that?

Sensitivity 20,000 ohms/volts DC
10,000 homs/volt AC

Fuse 0.5A, 250 V 32mm

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 16:18:59 -0500, Jose Queero
wrote:



I would really like to know how to use this stupid meter for everything
around the house (and car, which is why I originally bought it),
rather than just my "current" fan problem.

Dude, You should get a digital VOM at Sears for $20. I have extensive
training, but still do not rely on analog meters anymore because it is
so easy to make a mistake reading them. A digital auto-ranging VOM is
so much easier.

A lot of people posting seem to have ghost voltages, induced by
parallel wires, that digital meters show**, that analog meters
don't.*** They get really confused and analog meters don't cause
that.


**because of their high impedance, usually about 11 meg ohms/volt.
***becasue of their lower impedance, usually about 20K ohms/volt. as
is specified in your manual OP.

There are some high impedance analog meters, FET VOMs, but these were
only made for a few years afaik, and it seems not many have them. I'm
sure it says on the manual and the meter if it is an FETVOM, plus it
lists a high impedance, like 11Megohms/volt.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 17:54:36 -0400, mm
wrote:


A lot of people posting seem to have ghost voltages, induced by
parallel wires, that digital meters show**, that analog meters
don't.*** They get really confused and analog meters don't cause
that.

Another big advantage of analog meters is in testing capacitors
(condensers). Use an ohms scale and when you connect both ends, you
can see the resistance starts very low, and as the capacitor fills the
flow of additional electrons into the cap is slowed and that shows on
the meter as increasing resistance. All but the smallest caps can be
tested this way. It doesn't give a reading in farads, but the visual
is much more reassuring than a mere final resistance would be.

I made my own test leads out of banana plugs, a probe and an alligator
clip and I used lightweight speaker wire for the wire. The wire made
it easy to mount a double pole double throw slide switch in the wire,
so that I could reverse the leads just by sliding the switch one way
or the other. This made it easy to reverse the leads when testing
caps that filled so fast I could barely see it. It also takes I guess
twice as long to unfill the cap and refill it in the opposite
direction. (I guess that caps rated lower than the battery in the
meter shouldnt be tested this way, but I don't come across them.)

The reversing switch is also good for testing diodes and transistors,
which should read low in one direction and high in the other.

I've had to repair them maybe 3 times but I still use these test leads
and the analog meter thay were made for after more than 30 years.

**because of their high impedance, usually about 11 meg ohms/volt.
***becasue of their lower impedance, usually about 20K ohms/volt. as
is specified in your manual OP.

There are some high impedance analog meters, FET VOMs, but these were
only made for a few years afaik, and it seems not many have them. I'm
sure it says on the manual and the meter if it is an FETVOM, plus it
lists a high impedance, like 11Megohms/volt.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 17:49:30 -0400, mm
wrote:


DC Current: 0-50-500U A, 5mA-50mA-500mA

Each of these is ten times more than the one to the left. Including
that 5mA is 10 times 5uA.

Oops. 5mA is 10 times 500 uA.

Stop using a capital U and use a lower case
u instead. If your manual uses an upper case U, it's wrong. (probably
printed in Japan, and no one really skilled wants the manual writing
job.) A capital mu in Greek looks like a capital M in English. Only a
lower case mu looks pretty much like a u, a lower case u. (Look in the
dictionary under "alphabet" for important alphabets.

To make voltage testing in your house a lot easier just get a rubber pigtail
socket and a rough service light bulb to screw into it. If the bulb lights,
you have juice. If it doesn't light then the circuit is dead or you have a
problem.



wrote in message
oups.com...
I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?

How do I measure that? Any good webpages? I think I looked last March
when I was doing some wiring work in the car, but I never found
anything. I ended up just using my continuity tester....even I can
figure out "when the bulb lights, there is juice!"

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 18:10:02 -0400, mm
wrote:


I've had to repair them maybe 3 times but I still use these test leads
and the analog meter thay were made for after more than 30 years.

And when readings have to be done but the exact value isn't important,
it goes faster with an analog meter. Especially when there are a lot
of readigns to do.

wrote:
I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

It has an instruction manual that is about as clear as mud. I have
also read the appropriate pages in my "Readers Digest Fix-it Yourself"
book and my Time-Life "Complete Fix-it Yourself Manual"

What I don't understand is I have four dial settings areas basically
1. ACV 2. DCV 3. DCUA (the U is some south of wierd symbol, looks like
a U..sorta) 4. A Greek symbol, I think it's Omega (sorta of a squashed
upside down U).

AC volts, DC volts, DCmicroAmps, and Ohms

Then there are four holes for the banana plugs. 1. COM, 2. V-(Omega?)-
A 3. AC 1KV 4. DC 1KV

COMmon, Voltage, AC upto 1000 volts, DC up to 1000 Volts

And of course the dial sections are a gobbly gook of RX1 or 1KV or .
25, you get the picture.

All I want to know most of the time is if there is current flowing and
if there is, how much?


You can't.

VOM stands for Volt, Ohm, Milliammeter.

Current is measured in amps; your meter can measure - at best - some
thousandths of an amp.

Buy a Kill-A-Watt box for ordinary household measurements. It'll measure
volts, watts, Hertz, kilowatts, kilowatt hours, and other stuff. Here's one
on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kill-A-Watt-LCD-...QQcmdZViewItem

"Jose Queero" wrote in message
...
Meat Plow wrote:

You nimrod - I want the Holey Sock Award, and now. How many freekin'
groups to I have to troll to get it?

You're not good enough for a kook award.


If you knew my activities, I would be nominated.. But you don't.

I am the king of sockpuberty.


Here is a little hint - Rhonda hates me!

Little Rick?

wrote:
I have an active post about an attic fan, but noted that I don't
really know HOW to operate my "Portable 27-Range Multitester," an
analog VOM from about 1980-82.

You need to learn electrical fundamentals first, and meter usage second.
Trying to teach you this via usenet is like trying to teach a dog to
play piano.

Not trying to be insulting. You're just wasting time & wearing out your
keyboard.

Try this instead:

http://cgi.ebay.com/BASIC-ELECTRICIT...QQcmdZViewItem

No idea if that URL will make it, so it's ebay auction #280121594435

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 15:54:10 -0400, mm
wrote:

At best, you
won't get the right answer [trying to measure resistance]if there even a small voltage present, and
at worst it's easy to burn out the meter, or one resistor in it.

FTR I think I'm wrong here, that maybe one can get the right measure
of ohms across a resistance, even though it has a small voltage
present, but you shouldn't do it anyhow. WRT houses and cars there is
no need. And I don't think anyone does it. Measurements of voltage
are adquate.

The only likely voltage in a house is 110 or higher. That's not a
small voltage and will burn out a lot of meters. Small would be only
a little greater than the battery in the meter.

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 13:20:17 -0700, wrote:



I am so close to almost "clicking" (ie, understanding) this it is
painful.....THANKS MUCH. Your explaination is great

However, remember I am a babbling idiot here....so when you say:

If there is voltage, you can turn off the voltage at the breaker, or
disconnect those wires you connected, the black and white, and measure
the resistance of the fan/thermostat combination. If the needle
moves, with the first knob in posistion 4, ohms, and the other know in
the Rx100 or Rx1000 setting or any setting, you have "continuity",
there is a continuous path for the electricity to go through.

How exactly do I do this...that is measure the resistance of the fan
thermostat combo.....do I touch the meter probe to the disconnected
"house" black wire and then to the thermo connection? Or is it some
combo of black house wire, black fan wire, white house wire....well
you get the idea, I am sure...I hope.

Let's step back a few feet and look at the general issue.

There are two parts to an electric circuit.

The part that provides the power and the part that uses the power.

To test the first, you need a voltmeter, to see if there are any volts
(a measure of electric potential, EMF, but in the loose sense of the
word, a sign of power. (Not power measured in watts, which is a more
formal thing.))

To test the second, you need an ohmmeter to see if it's going to be
possible for any of that electricity to get through the second part
and do some work.

(You could say there is a third part, the wires between the two, but
in this example, I'm putting all the wires in either the first part or
the second part, based on wherever one splits the thing into two
parts.)

A simple example: A flashlight that doesn't light. In only opens at
the front. What most people do first is open the flashlight, slide
out the batteries and see how much voltage they have. (That's like
checking if there is AC voltage at the black and white wires.)

If the batteries are good, what most people do (at least me) is put
the two probes of an ohmmeter on the front part of the flashlight that
has the lightbulb in it.

Too tired to finish. Let me know if this is helpful and if so, I'll
try to finish it later.