Cauk/Filler for Expansion joint
 

Folks,

I am looking to fill the expansion joint between my slab of my
basement, and the outside walls. A little history:

We had a bit of water in the basement - came up through the expansion
joint at one edge of the basement. Sure enough, there was negative
drainage allowing snow-dammed water to leak into the house.

I have repaired that issue (put a french drain in) but I'd like to
take an extra precaution while I have everything ripped out of my
basement. I understand that filling this gap is not going to solve
any leaking problems that I might have...i'm just looking to cover all
bases.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can use to fill the
joint? It would need to be:


a.) water proof
b.) expandable/contractable/flexible with the movement of the slab.
c.) resiliant to the tests of time. (it should last a long time.)


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

Cauk/Filler for Expansion joint
 

On May 31, 8:47 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 31 May 2007 07:17:13 -0700, Todd wrote:
Folks,

I am looking to fill the expansion joint between my slab of my
basement, and the outside walls. A little history:

We had a bit of water in the basement - came up through the expansion
joint at one edge of the basement. Sure enough, there was negative
drainage allowing snow-dammed water to leak into the house.

I have repaired that issue (put a french drain in) but I'd like to
take an extra precaution while I have everything ripped out of my
basement. I understand that filling this gap is not going to solve
any leaking problems that I might have...i'm just looking to cover all
bases.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can use to fill the
joint? It would need to be:

a.) water proof
b.) expandable/contractable/flexible with the movement of the slab.
c.) resiliant to the tests of time. (it should last a long time.)

- Thanks in advance,

Todd

Silicone rubber fits your criteria.

Can you recommend a brand of silicone rubber that would work for me?

Cauk/Filler for Expansion joint
 

On May 31, 10:17 am, Todd wrote:
Folks,

I am looking to fill the expansion joint between my slab of my
basement, and the outside walls. A little history:

We had a bit of water in the basement - came up through the expansion
joint at one edge of the basement. Sure enough, there was negative
drainage allowing snow-dammed water to leak into the house.

I have repaired that issue (put a french drain in) but I'd like to
take an extra precaution while I have everything ripped out of my
basement. I understand that filling this gap is not going to solve
any leaking problems that I might have...i'm just looking to cover all
bases.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can use to fill the
joint? It would need to be:

a.) water proof
b.) expandable/contractable/flexible with the movement of the slab.
c.) resiliant to the tests of time. (it should last a long time.)

- Thanks in advance,

Todd

DAMHIKT, but you will not be able to influence water infiltration by
sealing this joint. What WILL work is to keep the water-table
below the level of the floor. What you're up to is purely cosmetic-
go for the prettiest color silicone.

J

Cauk/Filler for Expansion joint
 

On 31 May 2007 07:17:13 -0700, Todd wrote:

Folks,

I am looking to fill the expansion joint between my slab of my
basement, and the outside walls. A little history:

We had a bit of water in the basement - came up through the expansion
joint at one edge of the basement. Sure enough, there was negative
drainage allowing snow-dammed water to leak into the house.

I have repaired that issue (put a french drain in) but I'd like to
take an extra precaution while I have everything ripped out of my
basement. I understand that filling this gap is not going to solve
any leaking problems that I might have...i'm just looking to cover all
bases.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can use to fill the
joint? It would need to be:


a.) water proof
b.) expandable/contractable/flexible with the movement of the slab.
c.) resiliant to the tests of time. (it should last a long time.)


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

As others have said, it won't prevent water entry, but I'd go with 50
year urethane caulk. I found it sticks way better than silicone and
outlasts it too. Any type of caulk, silicon or urethane works best if
it only attaches to two surfaces, so it can easily stretch with
movement. So first stuff a piece of foam backer rod (you can get at
borg) in, and then caulk. The backer rod flexes, so it allows the
bottom of the caulk bead to stretch. You don't want more than about
1/4-3/8" thick bead of caulk. And if the gap is wider than about
3/8-1/2" you need a different solution.

HTH,

Paul

Cauk/Filler for Expansion joint
 

Can you recommend a brand of silicone rubber that would work for me?

Dow Corning, DAP, even hardware store brands like True Value. If it's
going to be damp you can get a mold and mildew formula. I steer clear of
GE because it caused me grief when I caulked in a shower surround and the
stuff didn't cure even after 4 days. Man what a mess that was to remove
and re-prep.

All these products would work, but I would include GE 100% pure silicone
adhesive and sealer. It is unpaintable, but tougher than all the paintable
types. Only trouble I've had with GE is when i use it beyond the "good
until" date printed on the bottom of the cartridge - then it indeed will not
set properly. Make sure whatever brand you use, that it is fresh (date will
be printed somewhere)
Roger

Cauk/Filler for Expansion joint
 

"As others have said, it won't prevent water entry, but I'd go with 50
year urethane caulk. I found it sticks way better than silicone and
outlasts it too. Any type of caulk, silicon or urethane works best if
it only attaches to two surfaces, so it can easily stretch with
movement. So first stuff a piece of foam backer rod (you can get at
borg) in, and then caulk. The backer rod flexes, so it allows the
bottom of the caulk bead to stretch. You don't want more than about
1/4-3/8" thick bead of caulk. And if the gap is wider than about
3/8-1/2" you need a different solution.
HTH,
Paul"

I second the polyurethane caulk recommendation.
In my experience it is very tough, and maybe better than pure silicone
caulk, in this case.
Roger

Cauk/Filler for Expansion joint
 

"Todd" wrote in message
oups.com...
| Folks,
|
| I am looking to fill the expansion joint between my slab of my
| basement, and the outside walls. A little history:
|
| We had a bit of water in the basement - came up through the expansion
| joint at one edge of the basement. Sure enough, there was negative
| drainage allowing snow-dammed water to leak into the house.
|
| I have repaired that issue (put a french drain in) but I'd like to
| take an extra precaution while I have everything ripped out of my
| basement. I understand that filling this gap is not going to solve
| any leaking problems that I might have...i'm just looking to cover all
| bases.
|
| Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can use to fill the
| joint? It would need to be:
|
|
| a.) water proof
| b.) expandable/contractable/flexible with the movement of the slab.
| c.) resiliant to the tests of time. (it should last a long time.)
|
|
| - Thanks in advance,
|
| Todd
|

Expansion joints are the most common type of moving cracks. They allow
sections of your concrete floor to freely "expand" and "contract" in
response to temperature changes in the surface. These cracks are your
floors weakest spots and when combined with moderate to heavy traffic
you have a potential for constant damage. To fill these joints a
material is needed that will flex to accommodate movement. Tigerthane
220(TM) from Garon Products will provide you with a durable flexible
seal that will not become brittle and break out with movement.
Tigerthane 220(TM) is ideal for repairing spalled joints, as well as
filling random cracks and patching gouges, holes and surface defects.
Tigerthane 220(TM) is a rapid setting, 100% solids, flexible, two-part
polyurea elastomer. Tigerthane 220(TM) is designed to set in
applications ranging from freezing conditions to 130°F and will be
traffic ready within 60 minutes. Most importantly, Tigerthane 220(TM) is
not brittle like ordinary concrete repair materials allowing it to move
with the floor. The use of Tigerthane 220(TM) prevents contaminants from
pooling in joint areas-especially necessary in food plants and other
floor surfaces where sanitary conditions are required.