Any suggestions on how to either: keep the fuel line (gas tank side)
from falling off (crazy glue around the outside?), or how to get my
hands on a new line?

Thanks.

On May 29, 4:31 pm, Jay wrote:
Any suggestions on how to either: keep the fuel line (gas tank side)
from falling off (crazy glue around the outside?), or how to get my
hands on a new line?

Thanks.

I'm assuming the fuel line is the same as the chain saw I use, and
most small engines.

Check with a local motorcycle shop or boat marina garage for a mini
hose clamp used on motorcycle, ATV, dirt bike, snowmobile and outboard
boat engine fuel lines. It's a spring-looking clamp with tabs you
compress with pliers to open. Slide it into place, let go with the
pliers and the spring tension holds the fuel line to the nipple.
Shouldn't cost more than a dollar. They'll have new fuel line also,
though that could cost as much as three dollars g

On May 29, 3:31 pm, Jay wrote:
Any suggestions on how to either: keep the fuel line (gas tank side)
from falling off (crazy glue around the outside?), or how to get my
hands on a new line?

As Dan says, they all use the same type of lines, just different sizes
depending on the size of the saw. Any small engine repair shop will
have replacement line.

A really cheap alternative to the "store-bought" clamp is to simply
take some small gauge wire and make a clamp by wrapping a turn around
it and twist the ends with a pair of pliers...

On 29 May 2007 14:36:59 -0700, dpb wrote:

A really cheap alternative to the "store-bought" clamp is to simply
take some small gauge wire and make a clamp by wrapping a turn around
it and twist the ends with a pair of pliers...

You're giving your age away! :-/

--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

The fuel line goes soft with constant exposure to gas and oil. For less than
$2 you can purchase a new fuel line, from most small engine repair shops.
You will get many more years of trouble free use, without the use of clamps
or wire. Both of which will get you out of a bind, however for a fix,
replace the line.
"Jay" wrote in message
ups.com...
Any suggestions on how to either: keep the fuel line (gas tank side)
from falling off (crazy glue around the outside?), or how to get my
hands on a new line?

Thanks.

On Tue, 29 May 2007 19:54:05 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

The fuel line goes soft with constant exposure to gas and oil. For less than
$2 you can purchase a new fuel line, from most small engine repair shops.
You will get many more years of trouble free use, without the use of clamps
or wire. Both of which will get you out of a bind, however for a fix,
replace the line.

What keeps the line from popping off without clamps or wire?
Especially after the line is weak?

You don't mean the glue idea from the OP, right?

--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

Nothing keeps the line from popping off when it is weak. You would have to
use some sort of clamp or wire. I think however that this is an emergency
patch job which may be needed in a pinch. A new proper size fuel line will
fit snug and it would be unlikely to pop off.
"Oren" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 29 May 2007 19:54:05 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

The fuel line goes soft with constant exposure to gas and oil. For less
than
$2 you can purchase a new fuel line, from most small engine repair shops.
You will get many more years of trouble free use, without the use of
clamps
or wire. Both of which will get you out of a bind, however for a fix,
replace the line.

What keeps the line from popping off without clamps or wire?
Especially after the line is weak?

You don't mean the glue idea from the OP, right?

--
Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in
the photo..

On Tue, 29 May 2007 20:31:45 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

Nothing keeps the line from popping off when it is weak. You would have to
use some sort of clamp or wire. I think however that this is an emergency
patch job which may be needed in a pinch. A new proper size fuel line will
fit snug and it would be unlikely to pop off.

So the oil and fuel has no bearing; in your thoughts.

You will not get good best result without a clamp or wire.

Would the line stay on for a few minutes, maybe!

The OP wants to stop it from popping off. (I cannot tell from here if
he is fifty feet up a tree, if so we send him up another saw).

The snug fit won't last.
--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

I was asked for an opinion. I gave it. I will not be lured into a ****ing
contest with you or any one else. Sorry to spoil your fun.
"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 May 2007 20:31:45 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

Nothing keeps the line from popping off when it is weak. You would have to
use some sort of clamp or wire. I think however that this is an emergency
patch job which may be needed in a pinch. A new proper size fuel line will
fit snug and it would be unlikely to pop off.

So the oil and fuel has no bearing; in your thoughts.

You will not get good best result without a clamp or wire.

Would the line stay on for a few minutes, maybe!

The OP wants to stop it from popping off. (I cannot tell from here if
he is fifty feet up a tree, if so we send him up another saw).

The snug fit won't last.
--
Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in
the photo..

On May 29, 5:01 pm, Oren wrote:
On 29 May 2007 14:36:59 -0700, dpb wrote:

A really cheap alternative to the "store-bought" clamp is to simply
take some small gauge wire and make a clamp by wrapping a turn around
it and twist the ends with a pair of pliers...

You're giving your age away! :-/

And/Or the farm-fix heritage...

--

On Tue, 29 May 2007 21:01:09 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

I was asked for an opinion. I gave it. I will not be lured into a ****ing
contest with you or any one else. Sorry to spoil your fun.

It's not a contest, just like me giving my opinion. The OP did not
declare an emergency; only asking for a way to stop the line from
popping off.

And how do you think you can spoil my fun?

--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

On 29 May 2007 16:42:54 -0700, dpb wrote:

On May 29, 5:01 pm, Oren wrote:
On 29 May 2007 14:36:59 -0700, dpb wrote:

A really cheap alternative to the "store-bought" clamp is to simply
take some small gauge wire and make a clamp by wrapping a turn around
it and twist the ends with a pair of pliers...

You're giving your age away! :-/

And/Or the farm-fix heritage...
or aviation

On 29 May 2007 16:42:54 -0700, dpb wrote:

On May 29, 5:01 pm, Oren wrote:
On 29 May 2007 14:36:59 -0700, dpb wrote:

A really cheap alternative to the "store-bought" clamp is to simply
take some small gauge wire and make a clamp by wrapping a turn around
it and twist the ends with a pair of pliers...

You're giving your age away! :-/

And/Or the farm-fix heritage...

If you twist to much and break the wire - cut another piece.

I was a young kid when told why they put water into tractor tires. I'm
no farmer, but have some heritage..

--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

On May 29, 6:24 pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2007 20:31:45 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

Nothing keeps the line from popping off when it is weak. ...
...[however a] new proper size fuel line will
fit snug[ly] and it would be unlikely to pop off.

So the oil and fuel has no bearing; in your thoughts.

You will not get good best result without a clamp or wire.

Would the line stay on for a few minutes, maybe!
....

Don't often disagree w/ you Oren, but will side w/ jacko on this one.
Most don't rely on a clamp and will last for years before the line
will relax. Don't think it is oil or gas that's the primary culprit
in causing them to fail, either--after all, it _is_ a gas line
designed to handle 2-cycle gas/oil mixture. Primarily imo opnion they
fail from heat and age, much of which is correlated I believe w/ UV
exposure. There's undoubtedly a component of fuel contact but I think
it's by far a lesser effect. I'd expect a new line to last at least
4-5 years -- first had to replace the one on the old chainsaw here
last year and that saw is nearly 20 years old.

Of course, to OP, while you're at it you might consider picking up a
new pickup tank filter if this saw is old enough the line is going --
can't hurt and might just help the way it runs...

On 29 May 2007 17:14:43 -0700, dpb wrote:

On May 29, 6:24 pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2007 20:31:45 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

Nothing keeps the line from popping off when it is weak. ...
...[however a] new proper size fuel line will
fit snug[ly] and it would be unlikely to pop off.

So the oil and fuel has no bearing; in your thoughts.

You will not get good best result without a clamp or wire.

Would the line stay on for a few minutes, maybe!
...

Don't often disagree w/ you Oren, but will side w/ jacko on this one.
Most don't rely on a clamp and will last for years before the line
will relax. Don't think it is oil or gas that's the primary culprit
in causing them to fail, either--after all, it _is_ a gas line
designed to handle 2-cycle gas/oil mixture. Primarily imo opnion they
fail from heat and age, much of which is correlated I believe w/ UV
exposure. There's undoubtedly a component of fuel contact but I think
it's by far a lesser effect. I'd expect a new line to last at least
4-5 years -- first had to replace the one on the old chainsaw here
last year and that saw is nearly 20 years old.

I really have no issue with other comments.

If snug fits in this case and you have enough line - snip half inch
off and fit the hose. The swollen end is cut off a bit to fit tighter.

In that case the OP can cut the line and snug 'er up.




Of course, to OP, while you're at it you might consider picking up a
new pickup tank filter if this saw is old enough the line is going --
can't hurt and might just help the way it runs...
--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

On May 29, 7:35 pm, Oren wrote:
On 29 May 2007 17:14:43 -0700, dpb wrote:



On May 29, 6:24 pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2007 20:31:45 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

Nothing keeps the line from popping off when it is weak. ...
...[however a] new proper size fuel line will
fit snug[ly] and it would be unlikely to pop off.

So the oil and fuel has no bearing; in your thoughts.

You will not get good best result without a clamp or wire.

Would the line stay on for a few minutes, maybe!
...

Don't often disagree w/ you Oren, but will side w/ jacko on this one.
Most don't rely on a clamp and will last for years before the line
will relax. Don't think it is oil or gas that's the primary culprit
in causing them to fail, either--after all, it _is_ a gas line
designed to handle 2-cycle gas/oil mixture. Primarily imo opnion they
fail from heat and age, much of which is correlated I believe w/ UV
exposure. There's undoubtedly a component of fuel contact but I think
it's by far a lesser effect. I'd expect a new line to last at least
4-5 years -- first had to replace the one on the old chainsaw here
last year and that saw is nearly 20 years old.

I really have no issue with other comments.

If snug fits in this case and you have enough line - snip half inch
off and fit the hose. The swollen end is cut off a bit to fit tighter.

In that case the OP can cut the line and snug 'er up.
....

That's a short term fix that can serve as a temporary workaround, but
none I have have extra length so that the shorter one won't reach to
bottom of tank. That, of course, is only a minor inconvenience as
compared to not being able to keep the saw running at all...

On 29 May 2007 17:46:34 -0700, dpb wrote:

If snug fits in this case and you have enough line - snip half inch
off and fit the hose. The swollen end is cut off a bit to fit tighter.

In that case the OP can cut the line and snug 'er up.
...

That's a short term fix that can serve as a temporary workaround, but
none I have have extra length so that the shorter one won't reach to
bottom of tank. That, of course, is only a minor inconvenience as
compared to not being able to keep the saw running at all...

The best answer then is a new fuel line . Given fuel cost I don't want
that line popping off

--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

On May 29, 9:07 pm, Oren wrote:
On 29 May 2007 17:46:34 -0700, dpb wrote:

If snug fits in this case and you have enough line - snip half inch
off and fit the hose. The swollen end is cut off a bit to fit tighter.

In that case the OP can cut the line and snug 'er up.
...

That's a short term fix that can serve as a temporary workaround, but
none I have have extra length so that the shorter one won't reach to
bottom of tank. That, of course, is only a minor inconvenience as
compared to not being able to keep the saw running at all...

The best answer then is a new fuel line . ...

Is there an Echo (pun intended) in here???

--

On May 29, 10:26 pm, dpb wrote:
On May 29, 9:07 pm, Oren wrote:

On 29 May 2007 17:46:34 -0700, dpb wrote:

If snug fits in this case and you have enough line - snip half inch
off and fit the hose. The swollen end is cut off a bit to fit tighter.

In that case the OP can cut the line and snug 'er up.
...

That's a short term fix that can serve as a temporary workaround, but
none I have have extra length so that the shorter one won't reach to
bottom of tank. That, of course, is only a minor inconvenience as
compared to not being able to keep the saw running at all...

The best answer then is a new fuel line . ...

Is there an Echo (pun intended) in here???

--

I'm not a mechanic, so take my comments at face value. I did grow up
owning and working on quads, dirt bikes and outboard motors. In my
experience it is true that a new line will fit snug and last quite
some time. Still, we always used the clamps. If I can spend an extra
dollar and extra few seconds in my driveway or on the dock to make the
fix last twice as long I'm all in. It's better than being miles from
home, in the woods or adrift in the river (or worse, rocking & rolling
in the ocean) muttering about how you should have fixed it right the
first time with a #!@$% clamp while trying to jury-rig the line with
fishing line and a pocket knife. In the same spirit, we always leave
the line as long as possible while still being neat, usually getting
an extra couple inches. In a pinch the extra couple inches & the
clamp may get you home.

With a chain saw you won't be stranded if/when it fails, but I'd still
prefer my fix to last as long as possible. This said, I'd replace the
line (including an extra inch or two if practical) and add clamps.
The peace of mind is worth the dollar or two it will cost.

Good looks to Oren for mentioning snipping off a bit. I've done that
to get by in a pinch in the past and didn't think to mention it here.

wrote:
On May 29, 10:26 pm, dpb wrote:
On May 29, 9:07 pm, Oren wrote:

On 29 May 2007 17:46:34 -0700, dpb wrote:

If snug fits in this case and you have enough line - snip half inch
off and fit the hose. The swollen end is cut off a bit to fit tighter.

In that case the OP can cut the line and snug 'er up.
...

That's a short term fix that can serve as a temporary workaround, but
none I have have extra length so that the shorter one won't reach to
bottom of tank. That, of course, is only a minor inconvenience as
compared to not being able to keep the saw running at all...

The best answer then is a new fuel line . ...

Is there an Echo (pun intended) in here???

--

I'm not a mechanic, so take my comments at face value. I did grow up
owning and working on quads, dirt bikes and outboard motors. In my
experience it is true that a new line will fit snug and last quite
some time. Still, we always used the clamps. If I can spend an extra
dollar and extra few seconds in my driveway or on the dock to make the
fix last twice as long I'm all in. It's better than being miles from
home, in the woods or adrift in the river (or worse, rocking & rolling
in the ocean) muttering about how you should have fixed it right the
first time with a #!@$% clamp while trying to jury-rig the line with
fishing line and a pocket knife. In the same spirit, we always leave
the line as long as possible while still being neat, usually getting
an extra couple inches. In a pinch the extra couple inches & the
clamp may get you home.
....

Can't really argue w/ the logic, particularly for motorized vehicles
the risks are much higher than simply a little inconvenience or
perhaps worst scenario some lost revenue if one's a professional
woodcutter, for example.

But, all the trimmers, chainsaws and the like I currently have (and,
counting I come up w/ ...let's see, that's five I think is all) came
from the manufacturer w/ no clamp and at least a couple have very
little room for one. I think all are at least 10 years old and some
are at least 20 (inherited from Dad) and I've only had the one line on
the oldest chainsaw need replacing since I came back after six or
seven years additional use on my part. Granted, of course, this is
pretty infrequent use, but my experience for these small engines is
that the manufacturers didn't use the clamp simply because it really
isn't needed until time the line needs replacing anyway.

Again, for a bike or a boat or even a lawnmower I'll agree w/ you I'd
not consider doing without. Part of the reason, of course is they
typically have much larger lines than the miniatures on the really
small 2-cycle engines. Wouldn't surprise me that larger chainsaws
come factory equipped w/ clamps as well.

Extra line almost never is a problem on larger engines, either, of
course. On at least one of the chainsaws I have, more than an extra
1/4" doesn't work because the direction it runs causes it to buckle
and pinch it closed. (DAMHIKT (or how long it took to find the
_obvious_ cause )

On May 30, 11:09 am, dpb wrote:
wrote:
On May 29, 10:26 pm, dpb wrote:
On May 29, 9:07 pm, Oren wrote:

On 29 May 2007 17:46:34 -0700, dpb wrote:

If snug fits in this case and you have enough line - snip half inch
off and fit the hose. The swollen end is cut off a bit to fit tighter.

In that case the OP can cut the line and snug 'er up.
...

That's a short term fix that can serve as a temporary workaround, but
none I have have extra length so that the shorter one won't reach to
bottom of tank. That, of course, is only a minor inconvenience as
compared to not being able to keep the saw running at all...

The best answer then is a new fuel line . ...

Is there an Echo (pun intended) in here???

--

I'm not a mechanic, so take my comments at face value. I did grow up
owning and working on quads, dirt bikes and outboard motors. In my
experience it is true that a new line will fit snug and last quite
some time. Still, we always used the clamps. If I can spend an extra
dollar and extra few seconds in my driveway or on the dock to make the
fix last twice as long I'm all in. It's better than being miles from
home, in the woods or adrift in the river (or worse, rocking & rolling
in the ocean) muttering about how you should have fixed it right the
first time with a #!@$% clamp while trying to jury-rig the line with
fishing line and a pocket knife. In the same spirit, we always leave
the line as long as possible while still being neat, usually getting
an extra couple inches. In a pinch the extra couple inches & the
clamp may get you home.

...

Can't really argue w/ the logic, particularly for motorized vehicles
the risks are much higher than simply a little inconvenience or
perhaps worst scenario some lost revenue if one's a professional
woodcutter, for example.

But, all the trimmers, chainsaws and the like I currently have (and,
counting I come up w/ ...let's see, that's five I think is all) came
from the manufacturer w/ no clamp and at least a couple have very
little room for one. I think all are at least 10 years old and some
are at least 20 (inherited from Dad) and I've only had the one line on
the oldest chainsaw need replacing since I came back after six or
seven years additional use on my part. Granted, of course, this is
pretty infrequent use, but my experience for these small engines is
that the manufacturers didn't use the clamp simply because it really
isn't needed until time the line needs replacing anyway.

Again, for a bike or a boat or even a lawnmower I'll agree w/ you I'd
not consider doing without. Part of the reason, of course is they
typically have much larger lines than the miniatures on the really
small 2-cycle engines. Wouldn't surprise me that larger chainsaws
come factory equipped w/ clamps as well.

Extra line almost never is a problem on larger engines, either, of
course. On at least one of the chainsaws I have, more than an extra
1/4" doesn't work because the direction it runs causes it to buckle
and pinch it closed. (DAMHIKT (or how long it took to find the
_obvious_ cause )- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for all replies. I appreciate it. I'll try to pick up a new
cheap line at the hardware store and see if it fits snug again.