I have a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Thanks

DeanB

"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Premade D-rings? All the trailers and dump bodies I saw on the jobsites as a
kid had those made up out of rebar sections that looked like they were
formed using various nooks and channels on the trailer, and tacked in place
and spray painted.

But seriously- keep in mind that they have to look 'real' to any cop that
stops you, lest you get a loose load or defective equipment cite. Rather
than the trailer place, I'd look at the local farm supply store- most of the
regional chains keep a pretty good stock of basic ironmongery like that.

aem sends...

On May 27, 12:07 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message

oups.com...I have a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Premade D-rings? All the trailers and dump bodies I saw on the jobsites as a
kid had those made up out of rebar sections that looked like they were
formed using various nooks and channels on the trailer, and tacked in place
and spray painted.

But seriously- keep in mind that they have to look 'real' to any cop that
stops you, lest you get a loose load or defective equipment cite. Rather
than the trailer place, I'd look at the local farm supply store- most of the
regional chains keep a pretty good stock of basic ironmongery like that.

aem sends...

Not sure how I would go about bending rebar into a U, that stuff is
pretty tough to work with. Heat it up and hammer over an anvil?

"dean" wrote in message
ps.com...
On May 27, 12:07 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message

oups.com...I have a
16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Premade D-rings? All the trailers and dump bodies I saw on the jobsites
as a
kid had those made up out of rebar sections that looked like they were
formed using various nooks and channels on the trailer, and tacked in
place
and spray painted.

But seriously- keep in mind that they have to look 'real' to any cop that
stops you, lest you get a loose load or defective equipment cite. Rather
than the trailer place, I'd look at the local farm supply store- most of
the
regional chains keep a pretty good stock of basic ironmongery like that.

aem sends...

Not sure how I would go about bending rebar into a U, that stuff is
pretty tough to work with. Heat it up and hammer over an anvil?

A piece of pipe, and something heavy with a hole in it, like a dumpster or
anvil, or lowboy trailer. Stick one end in hole. Slip pipe over the other
end. Manuver till the point you want to bend is between pipe and hole, and
pull. No, it ain't easy, and takes a little practice. Or just look in the
aisle where they sell the rebar- along with the straight sticks, they often
sell preformed shapes like that. 'U' shapes are pretty common in concrete
pouring, where you will be tying another pour to the first one.

aem sends...

On May 27, 6:52 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message

ps.com...



On May 27, 12:07 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message

groups.com...Ihave a
16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Premade D-rings? All the trailers and dump bodies I saw on the jobsites
as a
kid had those made up out of rebar sections that looked like they were
formed using various nooks and channels on the trailer, and tacked in
place
and spray painted.

But seriously- keep in mind that they have to look 'real' to any cop that
stops you, lest you get a loose load or defective equipment cite. Rather
than the trailer place, I'd look at the local farm supply store- most of
the
regional chains keep a pretty good stock of basic ironmongery like that.

aem sends...

Not sure how I would go about bending rebar into a U, that stuff is
pretty tough to work with. Heat it up and hammer over an anvil?

A piece of pipe, and something heavy with a hole in it, like a dumpster or
anvil, or lowboy trailer. Stick one end in hole. Slip pipe over the other
end. Manuver till the point you want to bend is between pipe and hole, and
pull. No, it ain't easy, and takes a little practice. Or just look in the
aisle where they sell the rebar- along with the straight sticks, they often
sell preformed shapes like that. 'U' shapes are pretty common in concrete
pouring, where you will be tying another pour to the first one.

aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


How about eye bolts? Either bolt them on, without welding, or cut
them and weld them on.

On May 26, 10:57 pm, dean wrote:
I have a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Tarp tie-down or rope hooks come to mind...

http://www.sealenterprises.com/detail.asp?sku=7041684

dean wrote in
ps.com:

On May 27, 12:07 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message

oups.com...I have
a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas
down. I figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not
pay up the $8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be
simple to make or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a
straight line!)

Premade D-rings? All the trailers and dump bodies I saw on the
jobsites as a kid had those made up out of rebar sections that looked
like they were formed using various nooks and channels on the
trailer, and tacked in place and spray painted.

But seriously- keep in mind that they have to look 'real' to any cop
that stops you, lest you get a loose load or defective equipment
cite. Rather than the trailer place, I'd look at the local farm
supply store- most of the regional chains keep a pretty good stock of
basic ironmongery like that.

aem sends...

Not sure how I would go about bending rebar into a U, that stuff is
pretty tough to work with. Heat it up and hammer over an anvil?


Buy U-bolts,weld them on.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
...
dean wrote in
ps.com:

On May 27, 12:07 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message

oups.com...I have
a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas
down. I figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not
pay up the $8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be
simple to make or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a
straight line!)

Premade D-rings? All the trailers and dump bodies I saw on the
jobsites as a kid had those made up out of rebar sections that looked
like they were formed using various nooks and channels on the
trailer, and tacked in place and spray painted.

But seriously- keep in mind that they have to look 'real' to any cop
that stops you, lest you get a loose load or defective equipment
cite. Rather than the trailer place, I'd look at the local farm
supply store- most of the regional chains keep a pretty good stock of
basic ironmongery like that.

aem sends...

Not sure how I would go about bending rebar into a U, that stuff is
pretty tough to work with. Heat it up and hammer over an anvil?


Buy U-bolts,weld them on.

Yeah, now that I think about it, that is more reasonable. The rebar tie-down
loops I rememeber from my youth were used for big-ass chains and load
boomers, not ropes or racheting webbing tie-downs. A utility trailer full of
loose lumber ain't a low-boy used for hauling Cats, backhoes, and telephones
poles, after all.

aem sends....

On May 27, 5:02 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:
"Jim Yanik" wrote in message

...

dean wrote in
ups.com:

On May 27, 12:07 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message

egroups.com...Ihave
a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas
down. I figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not
pay up the $8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be
simple to make or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a
straight line!)

Premade D-rings? All the trailers and dump bodies I saw on the
jobsites as a kid had those made up out of rebar sections that looked
like they were formed using various nooks and channels on the
trailer, and tacked in place and spray painted.

But seriously- keep in mind that they have to look 'real' to any cop
that stops you, lest you get a loose load or defective equipment
cite. Rather than the trailer place, I'd look at the local farm
supply store- most of the regional chains keep a pretty good stock of
basic ironmongery like that.

aem sends...

Not sure how I would go about bending rebar into a U, that stuff is
pretty tough to work with. Heat it up and hammer over an anvil?

Buy U-bolts,weld them on.

Yeah, now that I think about it, that is more reasonable. The rebar tie-down
loops I rememeber from my youth were used for big-ass chains and load
boomers, not ropes or racheting webbing tie-downs. A utility trailer full of
loose lumber ain't a low-boy used for hauling Cats, backhoes, and telephones
poles, after all.

aem sends....

Rebar isn't stiff enough really, anyway, for that purpose -- and OP
said he wanted canvas tie-downs, not load tie-downs, anyway...

On May 26, 11:57 pm, dean wrote:
I have a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Thanks

DeanB

weld down the end links of 8" lengths of chain

On May 26, 10:57 pm, dean wrote:
I have a 16x6.5 trailer with 6" tall steel side walls. I regularly
carry a load of wood rounds, and I want to easily tie a canvas down. I
figure I need 8 rope tie-down points, and would rather not pay up the
$8 each for cheap weld-on D-rings. What else would be simple to make
or cheap to by? I'm ok at welding (at least in a straight line!)

Thanks

DeanB

A tarp takes a lot of abuse on the highway even when tied down. The
only time I see a tarp used is where the law requires it. That is for
trucks carrying garbage or construction debris. Tie downs are a good
idea for any trailer but I would use them to secure the load, not a
tarp.

On 27 May 2007 16:24:31 -0700, beecrofter wrote:
-snip-

weld down the end links of 8" lengths of chain

Why 8" lengths? Seems like that would be a noisey, dangerous
bunch of flails as you go down the highway.

I used 20 sets of double links. Bolted one link to the trailer
frame & it keeps the other link from flopping around. Welding would
be nice- but then you'd need to paint.

I got mine at lowes & used their cutter to chop it up. -- Also saved
me a few bucks because I didn't pay for all the lost links. While I
was chopping away 2 employees walked by and watched me- at first they
thought I was just chopping every link. When they saw I was buying
short pieces, they wished me luck and moved on.

Jim

On May 29, 7:10 am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On 27 May 2007 16:24:31 -0700, beecrofter wrote:
-snip-



weld down the end links of 8" lengths of chain

Why 8" lengths? Seems like that would be a noisey, dangerous
bunch of flails as you go down the highway.

Makes it convenient to get hold of the section w/ a boomer, for
example, is one good reason. 8" isn't long enough to go flapping very
far and wouldn't be hard to provide a storage hook for the loose end
if were a concern...

I used 20 sets of double links. Bolted one link to the trailer
frame & it keeps the other link from flopping around. Welding would
be nice- but then you'd need to paint.

Works, certainly, but an extra link or two at least would allow for
alternate ways to grab it other than loop through the one link. Can't
get a chain hook of same size chain into the link, for example, is one
(perhaps minor depending on the actual usage) disadvantage.

On May 29, 8:10 am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On 27 May 2007 16:24:31 -0700, beecrofter wrote:
-snip-



weld down the end links of 8" lengths of chain

Why 8" lengths? Seems like that would be a noisey, dangerous
bunch of flails as you go down the highway.

I used 20 sets of double links. Bolted one link to the trailer
frame & it keeps the other link from flopping around. Welding would
be nice- but then you'd need to paint.

I got mine at lowes & used their cutter to chop it up. -- Also saved
me a few bucks because I didn't pay for all the lost links. While I
was chopping away 2 employees walked by and watched me- at first they
thought I was just chopping every link. When they saw I was buying
short pieces, they wished me luck and moved on.

Jim

Both ends are welded down, giving you about 6" to tie into between
them. If too noisy you can always wrap them in tape or fish them
therough some hose before welding. It also lets you slide a 2x4 across
the bed through two sets.