Copper tube to cold water inlet on Water Heater is Warm/Hot
 

Here's the story:

I have a 40gal gas water heater that is only 9 months old - it's a
Rheem Fury model 22V40F1.

Within the last few weeks it has been performing very poorly. We used
to take showers sequentially and never run out... now we run out after
the first and during the first the cold water must be turned down
every 3 minutes to maintain a constant warm/hot shower. The water from
the kitchen faucet used to be scalding (tons of steam rising like
crazy) and now it doesn't even break 115 degrees F. I have not
changed the setting on the thermostat since the beginning and it has
always been set a tick mark or two above the white mark (which
according ot Rheem the white mark is at 120.

I had the plumber who installed it come in to take a look but he
wasn't very helpful and passively brushed off my comments and
concerns. He basically said (after much prodding) it could be the
diptube or the check valve but that rarely happens so we wouldn't
check them. Well... enough about the plumber or I'd go off-topic.

I ended up calling Rheem to find what I could do and they gave me a
test that I was/am planning to take: 28 gallons of hot water should
come out within 10 degrees of the thermostat setting. Well, I went
down to the water heater to look it over just to get an idea of what I
needed to do for this test. While looking it over I noticed that the
copper tube that goes to the cold inlet of the water heater was warm/
hot (I'd say at around 105 degrees F). Any reason this should be?

Copper tube to cold water inlet on Water Heater is Warm/Hot
 

On Apr 3, 4:09�pm, "GG.and.UN." wrote:
Here's the story:

I have a 40gal gas water heater that is only 9 months old - it's a
Rheem Fury model 22V40F1.

Within the last few weeks it has been performing very poorly. *We used
to take showers sequentially and never run out... now we run out after
the first and during the first the cold water must be turned down
every 3 minutes to maintain a constant warm/hot shower. The water from
the kitchen faucet used to be scalding (tons of steam rising like
crazy) and now it doesn't even break 115 degrees F. *I have not
changed the setting on the thermostat since the beginning and it has
always been set a tick mark or two above the white mark (which
according ot Rheem the white mark is at 120.

I had the plumber who installed it come in to take a look but he
wasn't very helpful and passively brushed off my comments and
concerns. *He basically said (after much prodding) it could be the
diptube or the check valve but that rarely happens so we wouldn't
check them. *Well... enough about the plumber or I'd go off-topic.

I ended up calling Rheem to find what I could do and they gave me a
test that I was/am planning to take: 28 gallons of hot water should
come out within 10 degrees of the thermostat setting. *Well, I went
down to the water heater to look it over just to get an idea of what I
needed to do for this test. *While looking it over I noticed that the
copper tube that goes to the cold inlet of the water heater was warm/
hot (I'd say at around 105 degrees F). *Any reason this should be?

normally both inlet and output lines will be hot. the hottest water is
in the top of the tank and both lines live in the top of the tank so
both will be about the same temp, except inlet line will be cooler
during peak demand times

Copper tube to cold water inlet on Water Heater is Warm/Hot
 

GG.and.UN. wrote:
Here's the story:

I have a 40gal gas water heater that is only 9 months old - it's a
Rheem Fury model 22V40F1.

Within the last few weeks it has been performing very poorly. We used
to take showers sequentially and never run out... now we run out after
the first and during the first the cold water must be turned down
every 3 minutes to maintain a constant warm/hot shower. The water from
the kitchen faucet used to be scalding (tons of steam rising like
crazy) and now it doesn't even break 115 degrees F. I have not
changed the setting on the thermostat since the beginning and it has
always been set a tick mark or two above the white mark (which
according ot Rheem the white mark is at 120.

I had the plumber who installed it come in to take a look but he
wasn't very helpful and passively brushed off my comments and
concerns. He basically said (after much prodding) it could be the
diptube or the check valve but that rarely happens so we wouldn't
check them. Well... enough about the plumber or I'd go off-topic.

I ended up calling Rheem to find what I could do and they gave me a
test that I was/am planning to take: 28 gallons of hot water should
come out within 10 degrees of the thermostat setting. Well, I went
down to the water heater to look it over just to get an idea of what I
needed to do for this test. While looking it over I noticed that the
copper tube that goes to the cold inlet of the water heater was warm/
hot (I'd say at around 105 degrees F). Any reason this should be?

The temp of the cold water pipe is a red herring, don't worry about
that.

Is this an electric or gas water heater?

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

Copper tube to cold water inlet on Water Heater is Warm/Hot
 

"GG.and.UN." wrote in
oups.com:

Here's the story:

I have a 40gal gas water heater that is only 9 months old - it's a
Rheem Fury model 22V40F1.

Within the last few weeks it has been performing very poorly. We used
to take showers sequentially and never run out... now we run out after
the first and during the first the cold water must be turned down
every 3 minutes to maintain a constant warm/hot shower. The water from
the kitchen faucet used to be scalding (tons of steam rising like
crazy) and now it doesn't even break 115 degrees F. I have not
changed the setting on the thermostat since the beginning and it has
always been set a tick mark or two above the white mark (which
according ot Rheem the white mark is at 120.

I had the plumber who installed it come in to take a look but he
wasn't very helpful and passively brushed off my comments and
concerns. He basically said (after much prodding) it could be the
diptube or the check valve but that rarely happens so we wouldn't
check them. Well... enough about the plumber or I'd go off-topic.

I ended up calling Rheem to find what I could do and they gave me a
test that I was/am planning to take: 28 gallons of hot water should
come out within 10 degrees of the thermostat setting.

With a standard shower head flow rate of 2 GPM ,that gives you 14 minutes
of shower.

Well, I went
down to the water heater to look it over just to get an idea of what I
needed to do for this test. While looking it over I noticed that the
copper tube that goes to the cold inlet of the water heater was warm/
hot (I'd say at around 105 degrees F). Any reason this should be?



Is it supposed to stick down into the heated water? Then conduction would
explain the warmth.Does it cool off when water is being pulled from the
tank?


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Copper tube to cold water inlet on Water Heater is Warm/Hot
 

normally both inlet and output lines will be hot. the hottest water is
in the top of the tank and both lines live in the top of the tank so
both will be about the same temp, except inlet line will be cooler
during peak demand times

Thanks, that would explain it then!

Is this an electric or gas water heater?

Gas

With a standard shower head flow rate of 2 GPM ,that gives you 14 minutes
of shower.

That would be 14 minutes of a hot shower without having to turn down
the cold, correct?

Is it supposed to stick down into the heated water? Then conduction would
explain the warmth.Does it cool off when water is being pulled from the
tank?

I'm sure it's because of the conduction; I haven't tested that yet and
may or may not; thanks though.

Copper tube to cold water inlet on Water Heater is Warm/Hot
 

On 3 Apr 2007 13:09:19 -0700, "GG.and.UN."
wrote:

Here's the story:

I have a 40gal gas water heater that is only 9 months old - it's a
Rheem Fury model 22V40F1.

Within the last few weeks it has been performing very poorly. We used
to take showers sequentially and never run out... now we run out after
the first and during the first the cold water must be turned down
every 3 minutes to maintain a constant warm/hot shower. The water from
the kitchen faucet used to be scalding (tons of steam rising like
crazy) and now it doesn't even break 115 degrees F. I have not
changed the setting on the thermostat since the beginning and it has
always been set a tick mark or two above the white mark (which
according ot Rheem the white mark is at 120.

I had the plumber who installed it come in to take a look but he
wasn't very helpful and passively brushed off my comments and
concerns. He basically said (after much prodding) it could be the
diptube or the check valve but that rarely happens so we wouldn't
check them. Well... enough about the plumber or I'd go off-topic.

I ended up calling Rheem to find what I could do and they gave me a
test that I was/am planning to take: 28 gallons of hot water should
come out within 10 degrees of the thermostat setting. Well, I went
down to the water heater to look it over just to get an idea of what I
needed to do for this test. While looking it over I noticed that the
copper tube that goes to the cold inlet of the water heater was warm/
hot (I'd say at around 105 degrees F). Any reason this should be?

Imho, sounds like conduction. Because of this heat loss, it's
recommended to also insulate the cold water line within 10 feet of the
hw.

tom @ www.FreelancingProjects.com