Hi everyone,

I redid some plumbing in my basement and it went well except for one
thing:

I can NOT get one area to stop dripping. It's a spot in a hot water
line to the shower where I joined 1/2 inch
CPVC to 1/2 inch copper. I used a male, threaded CPVC fitting into a
female, threaded copper fitting.
I used pipe dope and tightened it as much as I could. Any more tight
and it probably would break.

I have redone this fitting three times and it just won't seal, always
drips. As I said, I used pipe dope one time.
One time I used teflon tape. I was told that both of these are ok to
use in this situation.

Now, oddly enough, when I take a shower and the pipe gets good and
hot, it stops dripping.
When it cools, it starts again as if the expansion was sealing it.

I'm out of ideas.

Help?

Thanks

On Feb 16, 8:58 am, "
wrote:
Hi everyone,

I redid some plumbing in my basement and it went well except for one
thing:

I can NOT get one area to stop dripping. It's a spot in a hot water
line to the shower where I joined 1/2 inch
CPVC to 1/2 inch copper. I used a male, threaded CPVC fitting into a
female, threaded copper fitting.
I used pipe dope and tightened it as much as I could. Any more tight
and it probably would break.

I have redone this fitting three times and it just won't seal, always
drips. As I said, I used pipe dope one time.
One time I used teflon tape. I was told that both of these are ok to
use in this situation.

Now, oddly enough, when I take a shower and the pipe gets good and
hot, it stops dripping.
When it cools, it starts again as if the expansion was sealing it.

I'm out of ideas.

Help?

Thanks

Whenver I need to thread two parts together I put them together with
nothing on them and tighten them up. Then I take them apart and apply
tape or dope (gas lines). This helps clean and straighten any
irregularities in the threads. You may need to insert a metal male
piece into the copper to clean/straighten the threads. Then use a new
male CPVC fitting with tape.

Could be that the CPVC fitting is bottoming out before the threads can
get tight. Check this and trim a little off of the end if this is the
case.

Help?



Take a look here.....this will help you out a bunch. Its a power point
presentation of your problem.

http://www.ppfahome.org/images/CPVC_...tion_FINAL.pps


Dean

On Feb 16, 9:33?am, "avid_hiker" wrote:
Help?

Take a look here.....this will help you out a bunch. Its a power point
presentation of your problem.

http://www.ppfahome.org/images/CPVC_...tion_FINAL.pps

Dean

Try applying a liberal amount of 2 prt epoxy, screw together than let
dry for 12 hours.

On Feb 16, 9:33 am, "avid_hiker" wrote:
Help?

Take a look here.....this will help you out a bunch. Its a power point
presentation of your problem.

http://www.ppfahome.org/images/CPVC_...tion_FINAL.pps

Dean

Ok, that's a good pps file. Exactly the problem I'm having.
I see that it says that I shouldn't have used male CPVC into female
copper and tells why. I was told to do it that way because the
water pressure pushing out on the female
edges could break it. Guess I was told wrong.

Should I just reverse it and use a female CPVC with gasket around a
male copper fitting?

Or should I use the socket x metal thread where the CPVC is factory
molded into a copper fitting?

Which do you think would be best?

Again, thanks.

On Feb 16, 10:01 am, " wrote:
On Feb 16, 9:33?am, "avid_hiker" wrote:

Help?

Take a look here.....this will help you out a bunch. Its a power point
presentation of your problem.

http://www.ppfahome.org/images/CPVC_...tion_FINAL.pps

Dean

Try applying a liberal amount of 2 prt epoxy, screw together than let
dry for 12 hours.

That might work.

Which do you think would be best?


socket x metal thread where the CPVC is factory
molded

wrote:
Hi everyone,

I redid some plumbing in my basement and it went well except for one
thing:

I can NOT get one area to stop dripping. It's a spot in a hot water
line to the shower where I joined 1/2 inch
CPVC to 1/2 inch copper. I used a male, threaded CPVC fitting into a
female, threaded copper fitting.
I used pipe dope and tightened it as much as I could. Any more tight
and it probably would break.

I have redone this fitting three times and it just won't seal, always
drips. As I said, I used pipe dope one time.
One time I used teflon tape. I was told that both of these are ok to
use in this situation.

Now, oddly enough, when I take a shower and the pipe gets good and
hot, it stops dripping.
When it cools, it starts again as if the expansion was sealing it.

I'm out of ideas.

Help?

Thanks

Hi,
Why not use tape?

Try applying a liberal amount of 2 prt epoxy, screw together than let
dry for 12 hours.

That might work.

On two separate occasions I just could not get a brass elbow for a diswasher
to stop leaking. Between teflon tape and teflon filled pipe dope, I go with
the pipe dope and use LOTS of it.

I know on one occasion, I used silicone RTV "stuff" and let it set up for a
day. I think I used epoxy on the other.

I believe generally speaking that screwing in a male plastic part into brass
often leaks. I have also found that at least in the 1/2" size, the
adaptors from pipe to "plastic" don't leak if installed properly. The new
ones can be taken apart if necessary.

In the case of the OP, I would suggest that he go directly from copper pipe
to plastic. One of the benefits is that you can rotate the join without
making it leak. Pipe dope also permits this but not as much.

On Feb 16, 10:37 am, "John Gilmer" wrote:
Try applying a liberal amount of 2 prt epoxy, screw together than let
dry for 12 hours.

That might work.

On two separate occasions I just could not get a brass elbow for a diswasher
to stop leaking. Between teflon tape and teflon filled pipe dope, I go with
the pipe dope and use LOTS of it.

I know on one occasion, I used silicone RTV "stuff" and let it set up for a
day. I think I used epoxy on the other.

I believe generally speaking that screwing in a male plastic part into brass
often leaks. I have also found that at least in the 1/2" size, the
adaptors from pipe to "plastic" don't leak if installed properly. The new
ones can be taken apart if necessary.

In the case of the OP, I would suggest that he go directly from copper pipe
to plastic. One of the benefits is that you can rotate the join without
making it leak. Pipe dope also permits this but not as much.


I don't understand. I AM trying to go from copper to plastic. Are you
talking about the ones with the hose type, rotating fitting?

Do what you will....but if you did it 3 times......why not a forth
time and doing it the correct way. And never looking over your
shoulder again to see if its dripping. Do it the quick and easiest
way.....you are then mickey mousing the fix.....only to always have
worries about it and will eventually fail. Up to you.....but wouldnt
you really like to solve the problem once and for all? Good luck.

Dean

On Feb 16, 11:53 am, "avid_hiker" wrote:
Do what you will....but if you did it 3 times......why not a forth
time and doing it the correct way. And never looking over your
shoulder again to see if its dripping. Do it the quick and easiest
way.....you are then mickey mousing the fix.....only to always have
worries about it and will eventually fail. Up to you.....but wouldnt
you really like to solve the problem once and for all? Good luck.

Dean

I think we misunderstand each other. I must have said something that
gave you the impression that I want to mickey mouse it.
The opposite is actually true. My response was to an earlier post
that confused me because someone said to go from plastic to
copper which is exactly what I am trying to do. Obviously I missed
their meaning.
My whole point of being here is to get it done properly.
Sorry for the confusion.

My whole point of being here is to get it done properly.
Sorry for the confusion.


No need to be sorry for anything. In reading my last post I pretty
much sounded like a know it all and cussing you out......and I
apologize for that. It was not intentional. I just wanted to direct
you in the right way.......and to not listen to some of these people.
Sure, the dripping may stop from some of these fixes some people
suggested, but it is the improper way and most likely will
fail......someday.

I apologize for my behavior ; forgive me.
Dean

On Feb 16, 1:22 pm, "avid_hiker" wrote:
My whole point of being here is to get it done properly.
Sorry for the confusion.

No need to be sorry for anything. In reading my last post I pretty
much sounded like a know it all and cussing you out......and I
apologize for that. It was not intentional. I just wanted to direct
you in the right way.......and to not listen to some of these people.
Sure, the dripping may stop from some of these fixes some people
suggested, but it is the improper way and most likely will
fail......someday.

I apologize for my behavior ; forgive me.
Dean

Heh, heh...you're forgiven. It's not a problem and appreciate your
help, I really do. I had already printed out the file you supplied and
that's what I am planning to use.
Epoxy doesn't sound right and I tried tape already. It didn't work.
You had said 'CPVC Socket X Metal Thread' is the better option. I'll
stop off on the way home and check them out.
I just want to do it right. I'm sick of this drip. It's like the
Chinese Water Torture.
Thank you.

i try to keep a house all one thing or another.all copper or all
plastic. has worked good for me.....lucas

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

I don't understand. I AM trying to go from copper to plastic. Are you
talking about the ones with the hose type, rotating fitting?

You are going from a female copper/brass to male plastic (if I read things
correctly.)

I was suggest that (if the situation permits) you should go from 1/2" copper
tubing to a female plastic adapter. The plastic "adaptor" could be a
transition to all plastic with glued joints (plastic glued joints are VERY
reliable when done right) or it could be an elbow or even a valve.

I used a 1/2" plastic valve when I needed to temporarily cap on 1/2" copper
tubing. When I reconnect, I will not have to shut off the water.

These adaptors (tubing to plastic) "work" as well even when there is water
present. You can't say the same for pipe dope, solder, or glue. Maybe
you can have some water flowing when working with teflon tape.

On Feb 17, 4:57 am, "John Gilmer" wrote:
I don't understand. I AM trying to go from copper to plastic. Are you
talking about the ones with the hose type, rotating fitting?

You are going from a female copper/brass to male plastic (if I read things
correctly.)

I was suggest that (if the situation permits) you should go from 1/2" copper
tubing to a female plastic adapter.

snip

Any reason for recommending the female plastic? That goes against all
the advice I have seen. I also had the benefit of using a female
plastic to iron transition. Got to dig it up in the spring to fix the
leak caused by the female adapter splitting on the casting line.

The only leaks I have ever had other than the above (and I've done a
lot of plastic over the years) was in using 1/2" size. Never a big
leak and fortunately were always in my basement so it wasn't a
problem. I just let them go and they sealed themselves after a time.

Harry K

"Harry K" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 17, 4:57 am, "John Gilmer" wrote:
I don't understand. I AM trying to go from copper to plastic. Are you
talking about the ones with the hose type, rotating fitting?

You are going from a female copper/brass to male plastic (if I read
things
correctly.)

I was suggest that (if the situation permits) you should go from 1/2"
copper
tubing to a female plastic adapter.

snip

Any reason for recommending the female plastic?

That goes against all
the advice I have seen. I also had the benefit of using a female
plastic to iron transition. Got to dig it up in the spring to fix the
leak caused by the female adapter splitting on the casting line.


I'm talking about the adaptors that have a elastic ring which actually seals
the connection. Short of the plastic cracking, the seal should be sound
regardless of on expansion due to temperature.

The only leaks I have ever had other than the above (and I've done a
lot of plastic over the years) was in using 1/2" size. Never a big
leak and fortunately were always in my basement so it wasn't a
problem. I just let them go and they sealed themselves after a time.

Threaded joints (with dope) often seal themselves. Occasionally, a sloppy
solder joint will do the same thing. The sealing depends upon there being
some crap in the water to slow down the leak and some minerals to really
seal things up.


Harry K

The Powerpoint description 'Avid Hiker' gave shows that
it's supposed to be done exactly opposite to what you describe.
A male threaded copper into a female CPVC, containing the ring
at the bottoming out point.

On Feb 16, 8:58 am, "
wrote:
I used a male, threaded CPVC fitting into a
female, threaded copper fitting.
I used pipe dope and tightened it as much as I could.

I just want to do it right. I'm sick of this drip. It's like the
Chinese Water Torture.
Thank you.


Id be interested in how this worked out once installed. Keep us
informed if you would, thx

Dean

I tied a half inch copper pipe to half inch cpvc with a gator ninty it sealed to the cpvc will not seal on the copper.what should I do.

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


I tied a half inch copper pipe to half inch cpvc with a gator ninty it sealed to the cpvc will not seal on the copper.what should I do.

Was is this gator ninty? I presume like a sharkbite. Is the plastic cut
square? Is this fitting on properly, IE parallel to the plastic? Is it
inserted fully? Does it have tension or stress on it?

--
Tekkie