Have need for shelves to hang on tilt-up concrete (not block) wall. Must be
sturdy, but don't want supports at the corners. I'm thinking about some kind
of triangular bracket anchored either from above (which holds a plank inside
the bottom of the triangle) or from the back side (for which a plank would
sit on the top of the inverted triangle):

|\
| \
| \
| \
=======
-------
or
=======
-------
| /
| /
| /
|/

(key: = is the plank)

Haven't been able to locate such locally (want to do this over the weekend
upcoming).

Basically I want no forward supports, just wall attachments with some kind of
diagonals.

Other ideas?

Thanks,
--
John English

vertical tracks with hanger brackets

snip /

No, no, no
|\
| \
| \
| \
=======


Yes, yes, yes
=======
-------
| /
| /
| /
|/


The second diagram supports loads reliably when properly braced. It is
reasonable these days to consider an adhesive that could glue the bracing to
the wall but without bolting metal bracing to the concrete wall the load
bearing capability of the shelf would not be very reliable unless the
vertical members of each brace extend to the concrete floor.

This could easily be built by using 2x4 for the bracing. Glue the vertical
members to the concrete wall using the proper adhesive made for such tasks
and extend the vertical member of the braces to rest on the concrete floor.
A 3/4" x 12-15" plywood shelf with bracing every 36" should suffice and
could easily carry loads up to 100 lbs. without worry. I don't use or
recommend particle board in a garage. It warps too easily and does not carry
loads well unless the bracing is reduced to every 18-24" for any meaningful
loads. I wouldn't pull my bracing in any more than 12" from either end of a
shelf and still, for the most secure installation a bolt or two through each
vertical brace into the concrete wall is the best solution.

--
%= Clinton Gallagher
NET csgallagher AT metromilwaukee.com
URL http://clintongallagher.metromilwaukee.com/
MAP http://wikimapia.org/#y=43038073&x=-...8&z=17&l=0&m=h

vertical tracks with hanger brackets

If you mean those 3/4-inch wide slotted tracks with 1/8-inch thick brackets,
IME, they're OK for books and brick-a-brack, but insufficient strength (I've
bent the "arms" and broken a few tabs in my time) for "industrial" use.

Thanks,
--
John English

Thus spake clintonG:

A 3/4" x 12-15" plywood shelf with bracing every 36" should suffice and
could easily carry loads up to 100 lbs. without worry.

The *kind* of bracing is the point of my question and post. What supports the
shelf, in your design?

Would like to avoid an all-2x4 lumber triangle every 36 inches -- I plan to
span almost 20 feet of wall with these shelves, with possibly as many as 3 or
4 shelves above the work surface. (The work surface itself is a
self-supporting "box" design.)

Bolting 2x4 to the wall is no problem. I'm just trying to avoid the use of
vertical "post" supports into the work area.

Thanks,
--
John English

On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 10:19:43 -0800, John E.
wrote:

Thus spake clintonG:

A 3/4" x 12-15" plywood shelf with bracing every 36" should suffice and
could easily carry loads up to 100 lbs. without worry.

The *kind* of bracing is the point of my question and post. What supports the
shelf, in your design?

Would like to avoid an all-2x4 lumber triangle every 36 inches -- I plan to
span almost 20 feet of wall with these shelves, with possibly as many as 3 or
4 shelves above the work surface. (The work surface itself is a
self-supporting "box" design.)

Bolting 2x4 to the wall is no problem. I'm just trying to avoid the use of
vertical "post" supports into the work area.

Thanks,


I built a bunch of wall brackets out of 1x3s and 1x2s,
like this: www.goedjn.com/sketch/bracket.gif

Which are adequate to hold up a good armload of 2x4s,
if placed every 4'. Mine are screwed into the
wall with 3.5" deck screws.

they need one screw through the tenon where the
horizontal pegs to the vertical, to keep it
from withdrawing, but everything else is
in compression when it's loaded.
Note that the tennons on the angle peice
need to be at 45 degrees, or you can't
assemble all three parts at once.

In my setup, the triangular open area is used to
to store pipe and dowel.

Get the Industrial Strength double wide tracks and brackets. They carry a
large load.


"John E." wrote in message
news.net...
vertical tracks with hanger brackets

If you mean those 3/4-inch wide slotted tracks with 1/8-inch thick
brackets,
IME, they're OK for books and brick-a-brack, but insufficient strength
(I've
bent the "arms" and broken a few tabs in my time) for "industrial" use.

Thanks,
--
John English

Not to mention, they are adjustable and not an eye-sore like wood
brackets would be.


"Al Schmidt" wrote in message
news:%DnBh.16$am1.0@trndny01...
Get the Industrial Strength double wide tracks and brackets.
They carry a large load.


"John E." wrote in message

Thus spake Al Schmidt:

Get the Industrial Strength double wide tracks and brackets. They carry a
large load.

You mean these?

http://shelving.com/Merchant2/mercha...Code=10014651&
Category_Code=EL-SH&Store_Code=SHELV01

http://shelving.com/Merchant2/mercha...Code=10001019&
Category_Code=EL-SH&Store_Code=SHELV01

--
John English

I got a fatal error on both your links.


"John E." wrote in message
news.net...
Thus spake Al Schmidt:

Get the Industrial Strength double wide tracks and brackets.
They carry a
large load.

You mean these?

http://shelving.com/Merchant2/mercha...Code=10014651&
Category_Code=EL-SH&Store_Code=SHELV01

http://shelving.com/Merchant2/mercha...Code=10001019&
Category_Code=EL-SH&Store_Code=SHELV01

--
John English

Thus spake Glenn:

I got a fatal error on both your links.

Try:
http://shelving.com/Merchant2/mercha...Code=10001019&
Category_Code=EL-SH&Store_Code=SHELV01

http://shelving.com/Merchant2/mercha...Code=10014651&
Category_Code=EL-SH&Store_Code=SHELV01

--
John English

I think I've hit on an idea...

Ideally, I'm looking for a sheet metal triangle (not 3 sheet metal sides, but
a 3-sided piece of sheet steel) with a flange on each of the 2 mounting sides
(vertical and horizontal) for attaching to wood upright and shelving with
screws. Heavy metal, not tin.

But my eyes are getting weak from the web sites I've searched for such a
thing. Anyone seen such?

Thanks,
--
John English

Thus spake John E.:

a 3-sided piece of sheet steel...

On second read, that doesn't look clear.

I mean a stamped steel triangle with flanges and screw holes on 2 edges for
attaching to upright and to the shelf.

Hope that's clearer...
--
John English

go to www.mcmaster.com search wall mount shelving. I tried to post the link
& it wouldn't work. for about 7 bucks a piece you can buy brackets with a
1060 lb capacity

"John E." wrote in message
news.net...
Thus spake John E.:

a 3-sided piece of sheet steel...

On second read, that doesn't look clear.

I mean a stamped steel triangle with flanges and screw holes on 2 edges
for
attaching to upright and to the shelf.

Hope that's clearer...
--
John English

catalog page 1559 12" heavy duty steel, part number 1752A73


"longshot" wrote in message
news:gaqBh.13$aM.3@trndny03...
go to www.mcmaster.com search wall mount shelving. I tried to post the
link & it wouldn't work. for about 7 bucks a piece you can buy brackets
with a 1060 lb capacity

"John E." wrote in message
news.net...
Thus spake John E.:

a 3-sided piece of sheet steel...

On second read, that doesn't look clear.

I mean a stamped steel triangle with flanges and screw holes on 2 edges
for
attaching to upright and to the shelf.

Hope that's clearer...
--
John English

John E. wrote:
I think I've hit on an idea...

Ideally, I'm looking for a sheet metal triangle (not 3 sheet metal
sides, but a 3-sided piece of sheet steel) with a flange on each of
the 2 mounting sides (vertical and horizontal) for attaching to
wood upright and shelving with screws. Heavy metal, not tin.

But my eyes are getting weak from the web sites I've searched for
such a thing. Anyone seen such?

What are you going to put on the shelves and how deep are they to be?

One rather easy way to support things in concrete or block walls is to
drill holes in the concrete and mortar in appropriately long pieces of
1/2 or 3/4" galvanized pipe. Two pieces of 3/4" pipe about 16-18"
long will easily support a full 50 gallon water heater...500# plus or
minus. In your case, an occasional pipe clamp would secure shelf to
pipe.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 13:56:34 -0800, John E.
wrote:

I think I've hit on an idea...

Ideally, I'm looking for a sheet metal triangle (not 3 sheet metal sides, but
a 3-sided piece of sheet steel) with a flange on each of the 2 mounting sides
(vertical and horizontal) for attaching to wood upright and shelving with
screws. Heavy metal, not tin.

But my eyes are getting weak from the web sites I've searched for such a
thing. Anyone seen such?

Thanks,


Yes. Home depot sells them as speed squares.

I'd be a bit surprised if you really need as
heavy a shelf bracket as you seem to think
you do. And if you DO need it, I'd be
a bit concerned out the ability of the wall
behind it to support it cantilevered out
like that. How about some numbers?

Thus spake Goedjn:

Yes. Home depot sells them as speed squares.

Yeah, that's what it reminds me of...

I'd be a bit surprised if you really need as
heavy a shelf bracket as you seem to think
you do. And if you DO need it, I'd be
a bit concerned out the ability of the wall
behind it to support it cantilevered out
like that. How about some numbers?

Maybe max 50 lbs per linear 3' of shelf. Probably won't reach that max.

One 8" shelf, one 12", one maybe 14" or so, one above the other.
Drill and anchor into concrete wall a 2x4 or 2x6.

One vertical 2x and a "speed square bracket every 3'.

Just first rough plan off the top of the head.
--
John English

On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 15:35:31 -0800, John E.
wrote:

Thus spake Goedjn:

Yes. Home depot sells them as speed squares.

Yeah, that's what it reminds me of...

I'd be a bit surprised if you really need as
heavy a shelf bracket as you seem to think
you do. And if you DO need it, I'd be
a bit concerned out the ability of the wall
behind it to support it cantilevered out
like that. How about some numbers?

Maybe max 50 lbs per linear 3' of shelf. Probably won't reach that max.

One 8" shelf, one 12", one maybe 14" or so, one above the other.
Drill and anchor into concrete wall a 2x4 or 2x6.

One vertical 2x and a "speed square bracket every 3'.

Just first rough plan off the top of the head.



Regular old stamped sheetmetal shelf brackets
out of the bin at a hardware store ought to be
good for around 100 pounds each.

"John E." wrote in message
news.net...
I think I've hit on an idea...

Ideally, I'm looking for a sheet metal triangle (not 3 sheet metal sides,
but
a 3-sided piece of sheet steel) with a flange on each of the 2 mounting
sides
(vertical and horizontal) for attaching to wood upright and shelving with
screws. Heavy metal, not tin.

But my eyes are getting weak from the web sites I've searched for such a
thing. Anyone seen such?

Any hardware or supply store catering to farmers and ranchers will have
them. Plain vanilla heavy duty metal utility shelf brackets, that can
support 12" shelfs and be nailed or screwed off to any convenient framing
member. Ususally a strange sort of cream color paint, for some reason. I
hung dozens of them as a kid.

aem sends...

In article .net,
John E. wrote:
...snipped...

Would like to avoid an all-2x4 lumber triangle every 36 inches -- I plan to
span almost 20 feet of wall with these shelves, with possibly as many as 3 or
4 shelves above the work surface. (The work surface itself is a
self-supporting "box" design.)

Bolting 2x4 to the wall is no problem. I'm just trying to avoid the use of
vertical "post" supports into the work area.

An idea used for lumber racks may be applicable to your needs: In the
2X4 supports secured to the wall, drill* 13/16" holes at desired shelf
height. Insert appropriate lengtsh of 1/2" iron pipe and rest the shelves
on top of them. The holes can be angled slightly to have the shelves
slant downwards towards the wall if desired.

*Check the size before drilling, I believe 13/16' gives a snug fit
for 1/2" iron pipe but my memory is not what it used to be. If you
want, you can use 3/4" pipe for more strength, that would probably
require a hole in the 1 1/8" range or thereabouts.

--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf.lonestar.org