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Default Drywall install question

I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
the stud.
Thanks.


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Default Drywall install question

In article , "Jack" wrote:
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?


Don't tighten the screw down so hard.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
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On Jan 30, 8:32 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , "Jack" wrote:
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?Don't tighten the screw down so hard.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.


It's natural to want to angle the screws toward the center of the
stud but that pushes the compressed and brittle edge away from the
rest of the tapered part..try going straight in,,as in 90degree
angle..Leaving the screw a tad bit less than recessed (as Doug
stated)will help too but just a tad bit or it will interfere with
taping..If all else fails You can use const adhesive and only enough
screws to hold it to the studs,,the glue can be spotted every 12" or
so or aplied in a small continuous bead(or any combo),,drywall nails
may cause less "blowouts" too,,the field(center studs behind sheet)can
still be screwed normally..Also when screwing dw the most
screws(normal conditions)should be recessed without ripping the
paper,,this gives the best strength and longer lasting good
results..Screws that rip the paper do'nt need to be removed,,just add
one an inch away,,they can both be mudded as one at each coat..
Dean

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Default Drywall install question



On Jan 30, 7:57 am, "Jack" wrote:
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
the stud.
Thanks.


Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head
and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out
when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver
with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your
problem, Good luck.

Joe

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Default Drywall install question

On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:57:56 -0500, "Jack" wrote:

I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
the stud.
Thanks.



I thought once that since some rooms are 8 feet tall, that sheet rock
went verticle. I was corrected and told that horizontal makes seams
better to hide.

A quick question, are you using a drywall gun, or a regular cordless?

tom @ www.MedJobSite.com





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If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus
having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and
ecstatically pleasing.


"LayPerson Tom" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:57:56 -0500, "Jack" wrote:

I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of
trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using
blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
the stud.
Thanks.



I thought once that since some rooms are 8 feet tall, that sheet rock
went verticle. I was corrected and told that horizontal makes seams
better to hide.

A quick question, are you using a drywall gun, or a regular cordless?

tom @ www.MedJobSite.com





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Default Drywall install question

If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus
having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and
ecstatically pleasing.


Whew - usually drywall seams don't get me ecstatic, but to each his
own, I guess.
If this is just one corner you're working with, it seems like it
wouldn't be too hard to add another 2x4 (or even 2x2) screwed right on
to the existing one, which would give you plenty of wood for the screw
to "bite". Not sure if there would be any code issues with this, but
it seems like it would be a fairly straightforward fix.
Good luck,
Andy

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FYI when possible install drywall horizontal. If you are a novice they have
preformed corner strips metal and paper combo for a nice corner Use usg
Lightweight joint compound easier to sand If you have some really bad areas
to fill use durobond to fill in. (Nightmare to sand so don't overfill ) Use
a big stirrer in your 1/2" drill to stir the compound to a soupy
consistency" Do not use it right out of the bucket I suggest you go to usg
drywall I think their site has tips on installation Jack" wrote
in message ...
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
the stud.
Thanks.




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Default Drywall install question


"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com...


On Jan 30, 7:57 am, "Jack" wrote:
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of
trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using
blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I
miss
the stud.
Thanks.


Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head
and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out
when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver
with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your
problem, Good luck.

Joe

I've found through my own exeriences that using the dimpler takes quite a
bit of finesse when installing drywall. The natural tendency is to try to
tighten it down like you would any other wood joint, but really it doesn't
take much to get the drywall tight. I've also found that the dimplers don't
work like they're advertised and in fact often times won't cam back until
it's too late.


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Default Drywall install question

a regular drywall screw gun works great however. Very fine adjustable.
Well worth the under a hundred they cost on ebay.

--
Steve Barker


"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...

"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com...


On Jan 30, 7:57 am, "Jack" wrote:
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet,
they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down
the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of
trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using
blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I
miss
the stud.
Thanks.


Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head
and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out
when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver
with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your
problem, Good luck.

Joe

I've found through my own exeriences that using the dimpler takes quite a
bit of finesse when installing drywall. The natural tendency is to try to
tighten it down like you would any other wood joint, but really it doesn't
take much to get the drywall tight. I've also found that the dimplers
don't work like they're advertised and in fact often times won't cam back
until it's too late.





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On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod"
wrote:

If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus
having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and
ecstatically pleasing.


"ecstatically pleasing."

ha ha ha





"LayPerson Tom" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:57:56 -0500, "Jack" wrote:

I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the
sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of
trick
or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using
blocking?
I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss
the stud.
Thanks.



I thought once that since some rooms are 8 feet tall, that sheet rock
went verticle. I was corrected and told that horizontal makes seams
better to hide.

A quick question, are you using a drywall gun, or a regular cordless?

tom @ www.MedJobSite.com




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On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote:
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod"
wrote:

If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus
having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and
ecstatically pleasing.


"ecstatically pleasing."

ha ha ha


I believe the man meant;;
aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk)
adj.
1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics.
2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the
aesthetic faculties.
3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty.
4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success.
5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste.
n.
1. A guiding principle in matters of artistic beauty and taste;
artistic sensibility: "a generous Age of Aquarius aesthetic that said
that everything was art" William Wilson.
2. An underlying principle, a set of principles, or a view often
manifested by outward appearances or style of behavior: "What troubled
him was the squalor of [the colonel's] aesthetic" Lewis H. Lapham.

I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the
construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated
then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because
of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small
tradgedies sometimes..
Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung
horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more
studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the
studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung
vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally..
I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of
tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this
depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when
natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all..
Dean

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Default Drywall install question

I hung them vertical because the walls are about 7 feet, plus I have no butt
joints. Being a homemoaner, not a pro, anything I can do helps.
..
Thanks to all for the advice. A softer touch with the screwgun has
eliminated the blowouts.

"Dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote:
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod"
wrote:

If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work.
I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus
having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and
ecstatically pleasing.


"ecstatically pleasing."

ha ha ha


I believe the man meant;;
aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk)
adj.
1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics.
2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the
aesthetic faculties.
3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty.
4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success.
5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste.
n.
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On 31 Jan 2007 07:13:04 -0800, "Dean" wrote:

On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote:
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod"
wrote:

If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus
having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and
ecstatically pleasing.


"ecstatically pleasing."

ha ha ha


I believe the man meant;;
aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk)


Personally I prefer "ecstatically" since it suggests great job in the
the work being done.

ec·stat·ic - Being in a state of ecstasy; joyful or enraptured.

tom @ www.MedJobSite.com





adj.
1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics.
2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the
aesthetic faculties.
3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty.
4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success.
5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste.
n.
1. A guiding principle in matters of artistic beauty and taste;
artistic sensibility: "a generous Age of Aquarius aesthetic that said
that everything was art" William Wilson.
2. An underlying principle, a set of principles, or a view often
manifested by outward appearances or style of behavior: "What troubled
him was the squalor of [the colonel's] aesthetic" Lewis H. Lapham.

I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the
construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated
then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because
of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small
tradgedies sometimes..
Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung
horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more
studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the
studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung
vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally..
I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of
tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this
depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when
natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all..
Dean

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On Jan 31, 12:38 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote:
On 31 Jan 2007 07:13:04 -0800, "Dean" wrote:

On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote:
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod"
wrote:


If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus
having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and
ecstatically pleasing.


"ecstatically pleasing."


ha ha ha


I believe the man meant;;
aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk)


Personally I prefer "ecstatically" since it suggests great job in the
the work being done.

ec·stat·ic - Being in a state of ecstasy; joyful or enraptured.

tom @www.MedJobSite.com



adj.
1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics.
2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the
aesthetic faculties.
3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty.
4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success.
5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste.
n.
1. A guiding principle in matters of artistic beauty and taste;
artistic sensibility: "a generous Age of Aquarius aesthetic that said
that everything was art" William Wilson.
2. An underlying principle, a set of principles, or a view often
manifested by outward appearances or style of behavior: "What troubled
him was the squalor of [the colonel's] aesthetic" Lewis H. Lapham.


I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the
construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated
then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because
of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small
tradgedies sometimes..
Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung
horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more
studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the
studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung
vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally..
I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of
tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this
depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when
natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all..
Dean- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


It's all good,,"ecstatically aesthetic",,One might say..Or would
that be vica-versa? Visa-versa?vicey-versy? Whatever! I'm just a dumb
drywaller with a propensity for the inane anyway!!
Got Budweiser?
Dean



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"Dean" wrote in message Vertical hanging is good when
natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all..

Actually, in my experience natural light usually is coming through a
sidewall
window and striking the wall more or less horizontally. So, hanging drywall
horizontally with horizontal seams has the light shining along the ridge
formed
by the finshing of the seams. Resulting in fewer shadows. Vertical seams
cause the light to shine across the seams with creates shadows at each seam.
Ergo -- I find the seams are less obvious when hanging the drywall
horizontally.
YMMV


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replying to Jack, Iggy wrote:
I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the
*only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by
and for Hacks.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm


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On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 20:14:06 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Jack, Iggy wrote:
I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the
*only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by
and for Hacks.

Exolain please.
Professional drywallers everywhere dissagree with you - and for good
reason.
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On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 20:14:06 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Jack, Iggy wrote:
I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the
*only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by
and for Hacks.


Wrong. You never hung any drywall, I can tell Iggy Dummy. You're just
talkin' **** and show your ignorance.

Come back and prove just how silly you are!


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On Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 5:05:54 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 20:14:06 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Jack, Iggy wrote:
I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the
*only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by
and for Hacks.


Wrong. You never hung any drywall, I can tell Iggy Dummy. You're just
talkin' **** and show your ignorance.

Come back and prove just how silly you are!


Iggy-norant is replying to a TEN YEAR OLD post --- a g a i n.

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replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
Nope, they were just taught wrong by those who were taught wrong, etc. What
"good reason" have they sold you or what do you agree with?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm


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On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 03:14:05 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
Nope, they were just taught wrong by those who were taught wrong, etc. What
"good reason" have they sold you or what do you agree with?


All the explanation is in the referenced home moaners site.

You are WRONG - accept it.
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replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
So you don't have a good reason. Check out my list , where I fully and
factually destroy the *lies* of Horizontal:
https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-318143-.htm


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replying to gfretwell, Iggy wrote:
Ouch! You can't throw that requirement at a Horizontal, it means they're
wrong...they don't like that and they'll just refer to the ASTM's laughable
error that they refuse to fix or even acknowledge.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm


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On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 11:44:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
So you don't have a good reason. Check out my list , where I fully and
factually destroy the *lies* of Horizontal:
https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-318143-.htm

I checked it out. I don't agree with you, as explained previously.
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replying to Tekkie®, Iggy wrote:
You know you don't want to have cracks and to die being burned alive and that
your place may very well not burn to the ground, taking all of your stuff with
it.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm




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On Sat, 19 Aug 2017 09:46:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:


X-Received-Body-CRC: 160634494
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Xref: news.eternal-september.org alt.home.repair:587322

On 8/19/2017 9:15 AM, wrote:

and firestops are required for fire rating.
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replying to Ed Pawlowski, Iggy wrote:
Yep, but I couldn't sell that here either and was told I'm wrong. The
laughable "pros" only do a good and proper job *IF* it's specified...it's
"screw everyone" until that specification shows up. It's called Cutting
Corners, if it's hidden it's skipped and if the hack's work has to be fixed
then it's just a price increase for needlessly forcing wrong into right.
You've got wheels, why would you want tires too is the mentality.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm




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