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#1
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Drywall install question
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they
are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. |
#2
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Drywall install question
In article , "Jack" wrote:
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? Don't tighten the screw down so hard. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#3
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Drywall install question
On Jan 30, 8:32 am, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , "Jack" wrote: I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking?Don't tighten the screw down so hard. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. It's natural to want to angle the screws toward the center of the stud but that pushes the compressed and brittle edge away from the rest of the tapered part..try going straight in,,as in 90degree angle..Leaving the screw a tad bit less than recessed (as Doug stated)will help too but just a tad bit or it will interfere with taping..If all else fails You can use const adhesive and only enough screws to hold it to the studs,,the glue can be spotted every 12" or so or aplied in a small continuous bead(or any combo),,drywall nails may cause less "blowouts" too,,the field(center studs behind sheet)can still be screwed normally..Also when screwing dw the most screws(normal conditions)should be recessed without ripping the paper,,this gives the best strength and longer lasting good results..Screws that rip the paper do'nt need to be removed,,just add one an inch away,,they can both be mudded as one at each coat.. Dean |
#4
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Drywall install question
On Jan 30, 7:57 am, "Jack" wrote: I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your problem, Good luck. Joe |
#5
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Drywall install question
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:57:56 -0500, "Jack" wrote:
I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. I thought once that since some rooms are 8 feet tall, that sheet rock went verticle. I was corrected and told that horizontal makes seams better to hide. A quick question, are you using a drywall gun, or a regular cordless? tom @ www.MedJobSite.com |
#6
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Drywall install question
If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing. "LayPerson Tom" wrote in message ... On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:57:56 -0500, "Jack" wrote: I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. I thought once that since some rooms are 8 feet tall, that sheet rock went verticle. I was corrected and told that horizontal makes seams better to hide. A quick question, are you using a drywall gun, or a regular cordless? tom @ www.MedJobSite.com |
#7
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Drywall install question
If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I
now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing. Whew - usually drywall seams don't get me ecstatic, but to each his own, I guess. If this is just one corner you're working with, it seems like it wouldn't be too hard to add another 2x4 (or even 2x2) screwed right on to the existing one, which would give you plenty of wood for the screw to "bite". Not sure if there would be any code issues with this, but it seems like it would be a fairly straightforward fix. Good luck, Andy |
#8
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Drywall install question
FYI when possible install drywall horizontal. If you are a novice they have
preformed corner strips metal and paper combo for a nice corner Use usg Lightweight joint compound easier to sand If you have some really bad areas to fill use durobond to fill in. (Nightmare to sand so don't overfill ) Use a big stirrer in your 1/2" drill to stir the compound to a soupy consistency" Do not use it right out of the bucket I suggest you go to usg drywall I think their site has tips on installation Jack" wrote in message ... I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. |
#9
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Drywall install question
"Joe" wrote in message oups.com... On Jan 30, 7:57 am, "Jack" wrote: I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your problem, Good luck. Joe I've found through my own exeriences that using the dimpler takes quite a bit of finesse when installing drywall. The natural tendency is to try to tighten it down like you would any other wood joint, but really it doesn't take much to get the drywall tight. I've also found that the dimplers don't work like they're advertised and in fact often times won't cam back until it's too late. |
#10
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Drywall install question
a regular drywall screw gun works great however. Very fine adjustable.
Well worth the under a hundred they cost on ebay. -- Steve Barker "Eigenvector" wrote in message ... "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... On Jan 30, 7:57 am, "Jack" wrote: I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your problem, Good luck. Joe I've found through my own exeriences that using the dimpler takes quite a bit of finesse when installing drywall. The natural tendency is to try to tighten it down like you would any other wood joint, but really it doesn't take much to get the drywall tight. I've also found that the dimplers don't work like they're advertised and in fact often times won't cam back until it's too late. |
#11
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Drywall install question
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod"
wrote: If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing. "ecstatically pleasing." ha ha ha "LayPerson Tom" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:57:56 -0500, "Jack" wrote: I am installing sheetrock vertically. Where the tapered seams meet, they are falling on the center of the studs. When I attempt to screw down the sheetrock at the seams, I am getting blowouts. Is there some sort of trick or recommendation you have used to prevent this, other than using blocking? I am trying to stay as far away from the edge as possible, but then I miss the stud. Thanks. I thought once that since some rooms are 8 feet tall, that sheet rock went verticle. I was corrected and told that horizontal makes seams better to hide. A quick question, are you using a drywall gun, or a regular cordless? tom @ www.MedJobSite.com |
#12
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Drywall install question
On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote:
On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod" wrote: If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing. "ecstatically pleasing." ha ha ha I believe the man meant;; aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk) adj. 1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics. 2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the aesthetic faculties. 3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty. 4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success. 5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste. n. 1. A guiding principle in matters of artistic beauty and taste; artistic sensibility: "a generous Age of Aquarius aesthetic that said that everything was art" William Wilson. 2. An underlying principle, a set of principles, or a view often manifested by outward appearances or style of behavior: "What troubled him was the squalor of [the colonel's] aesthetic" Lewis H. Lapham. I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small tradgedies sometimes.. Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally.. I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all.. Dean |
#13
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Drywall install question
I hung them vertical because the walls are about 7 feet, plus I have no butt
joints. Being a homemoaner, not a pro, anything I can do helps. .. Thanks to all for the advice. A softer touch with the screwgun has eliminated the blowouts. "Dean" wrote in message oups.com... On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote: On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod" wrote: If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing. "ecstatically pleasing." ha ha ha I believe the man meant;; aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk) adj. 1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics. 2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the aesthetic faculties. 3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty. 4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success. 5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste. n. |
#14
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Drywall install question
On 31 Jan 2007 07:13:04 -0800, "Dean" wrote:
On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote: On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod" wrote: If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing. "ecstatically pleasing." ha ha ha I believe the man meant;; aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk) Personally I prefer "ecstatically" since it suggests great job in the the work being done. ec·stat·ic - Being in a state of ecstasy; joyful or enraptured. tom @ www.MedJobSite.com adj. 1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics. 2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the aesthetic faculties. 3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty. 4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success. 5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste. n. 1. A guiding principle in matters of artistic beauty and taste; artistic sensibility: "a generous Age of Aquarius aesthetic that said that everything was art" William Wilson. 2. An underlying principle, a set of principles, or a view often manifested by outward appearances or style of behavior: "What troubled him was the squalor of [the colonel's] aesthetic" Lewis H. Lapham. I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small tradgedies sometimes.. Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally.. I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all.. Dean |
#15
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Drywall install question
On Jan 31, 12:38 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote:
On 31 Jan 2007 07:13:04 -0800, "Dean" wrote: On Jan 30, 8:49 pm, LayPerson Tom wrote: On Tue, 30 Jan 2007 14:36:40 -0500, "HotRod" wrote: If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing. "ecstatically pleasing." ha ha ha I believe the man meant;; aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk) Personally I prefer "ecstatically" since it suggests great job in the the work being done. ec·stat·ic - Being in a state of ecstasy; joyful or enraptured. tom @www.MedJobSite.com adj. 1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics. 2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the aesthetic faculties. 3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty. 4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success. 5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste. n. 1. A guiding principle in matters of artistic beauty and taste; artistic sensibility: "a generous Age of Aquarius aesthetic that said that everything was art" William Wilson. 2. An underlying principle, a set of principles, or a view often manifested by outward appearances or style of behavior: "What troubled him was the squalor of [the colonel's] aesthetic" Lewis H. Lapham. I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small tradgedies sometimes.. Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally.. I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all.. Dean- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It's all good,,"ecstatically aesthetic",,One might say..Or would that be vica-versa? Visa-versa?vicey-versy? Whatever! I'm just a dumb drywaller with a propensity for the inane anyway!! Got Budweiser? Dean |
#16
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Drywall install question
"Dean" wrote in message Vertical hanging is good when
natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all.. Actually, in my experience natural light usually is coming through a sidewall window and striking the wall more or less horizontally. So, hanging drywall horizontally with horizontal seams has the light shining along the ridge formed by the finshing of the seams. Resulting in fewer shadows. Vertical seams cause the light to shine across the seams with creates shadows at each seam. Ergo -- I find the seams are less obvious when hanging the drywall horizontally. YMMV |
#17
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Drywall install question
replying to Jack, Iggy wrote:
I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the *only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by and for Hacks. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm |
#18
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Drywall install question
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 20:14:06 GMT, Iggy
m wrote: replying to Jack, Iggy wrote: I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the *only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by and for Hacks. Exolain please. Professional drywallers everywhere dissagree with you - and for good reason. |
#19
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Drywall install question
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#20
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Drywall install question
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 20:14:06 GMT, Iggy
m wrote: replying to Jack, Iggy wrote: I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the *only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by and for Hacks. Wrong. You never hung any drywall, I can tell Iggy Dummy. You're just talkin' **** and show your ignorance. Come back and prove just how silly you are! |
#21
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Drywall install question
On Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 5:05:54 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 20:14:06 GMT, Iggy m wrote: replying to Jack, Iggy wrote: I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the *only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by and for Hacks. Wrong. You never hung any drywall, I can tell Iggy Dummy. You're just talkin' **** and show your ignorance. Come back and prove just how silly you are! Iggy-norant is replying to a TEN YEAR OLD post --- a g a i n. |
#23
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Drywall install question
replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
Nope, they were just taught wrong by those who were taught wrong, etc. What "good reason" have they sold you or what do you agree with? -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm |
#24
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Drywall install question
On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 03:14:05 GMT, Iggy
m wrote: replying to clare, Iggy wrote: Nope, they were just taught wrong by those who were taught wrong, etc. What "good reason" have they sold you or what do you agree with? All the explanation is in the referenced home moaners site. You are WRONG - accept it. |
#26
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Drywall install question
replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
So you don't have a good reason. Check out my list , where I fully and factually destroy the *lies* of Horizontal: https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-318143-.htm |
#27
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Drywall install question
replying to gfretwell, Iggy wrote:
Ouch! You can't throw that requirement at a Horizontal, it means they're wrong...they don't like that and they'll just refer to the ASTM's laughable error that they refuse to fix or even acknowledge. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm |
#28
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Drywall install question
On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 11:44:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote: replying to clare, Iggy wrote: So you don't have a good reason. Check out my list , where I fully and factually destroy the *lies* of Horizontal: https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-318143-.htm I checked it out. I don't agree with you, as explained previously. |
#29
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Drywall install question
posted for all of us...
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 21:43:50 -0400, wrote: I understand some drywall installers prefer horizontal installation but I am curious how NFPA feels about a taped joint vs solid drywall in the 15 minute fire rating. It is also easy to argue that the taped joint across the stud bay is not as strong (against impact) as one that is over the stud. I believe the NFPA is silent on the subject, and there is never more than 14.5 inches between supportd (assuming 16 inch centers) The big advantage is you don't have floor to ceiling joints to telegraph through every 48 inches, Vertical joints are MUCH more visible than horizontals due to the way light interacts. That would not be 100% accurate. This is the ICC structural code chapter 7 Footnote to TABLE 721.6.2(1) TIME ASSIGNED TO WALLBOARD MEMBRANES (Goes on to list various types of wallboard and the fire rating) "b. Gypsum wallboard installed over framing or furring shall be installed so that all edges are supported..." Thank you for the reference. In my eyes this makes vertical install mandatory... But then again what do I know... -- Tekkie |
#30
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Drywall install question
replying to Tekkie®, Iggy wrote:
You know you don't want to have cracks and to die being burned alive and that your place may very well not burn to the ground, taking all of your stuff with it. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm |
#31
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Drywall install question
On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 16:47:21 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote: posted for all of us... On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 21:43:50 -0400, wrote: I understand some drywall installers prefer horizontal installation but I am curious how NFPA feels about a taped joint vs solid drywall in the 15 minute fire rating. It is also easy to argue that the taped joint across the stud bay is not as strong (against impact) as one that is over the stud. I believe the NFPA is silent on the subject, and there is never more than 14.5 inches between supportd (assuming 16 inch centers) The big advantage is you don't have floor to ceiling joints to telegraph through every 48 inches, Vertical joints are MUCH more visible than horizontals due to the way light interacts. That would not be 100% accurate. This is the ICC structural code chapter 7 Footnote to TABLE 721.6.2(1) TIME ASSIGNED TO WALLBOARD MEMBRANES (Goes on to list various types of wallboard and the fire rating) "b. Gypsum wallboard installed over framing or furring shall be installed so that all edges are supported..." Thank you for the reference. In my eyes this makes vertical install mandatory... But then again what do I know... Only if there needs to be a fire rating. |
#32
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Drywall install question
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#33
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Drywall install question
On Sat, 19 Aug 2017 09:46:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/19/2017 9:15 AM, wrote: On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 16:47:21 -0400, Tekkie® wrote: That would not be 100% accurate. This is the ICC structural code chapter 7 Footnote to TABLE 721.6.2(1) TIME ASSIGNED TO WALLBOARD MEMBRANES (Goes on to list various types of wallboard and the fire rating) "b. Gypsum wallboard installed over framing or furring shall be installed so that all edges are supported..." Thank you for the reference. In my eyes this makes vertical install mandatory... But then again what do I know... Only if there needs to be a fire rating. If you put firestops in the framing all edges can be supported in horizontal installation. Good point |
#34
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Drywall install question
On Sat, 19 Aug 2017 09:46:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
X-Received-Body-CRC: 160634494 X-Received-Bytes: 1936 X-Original-Bytes: 1754 Xref: news.eternal-september.org alt.home.repair:587322 On 8/19/2017 9:15 AM, wrote: and firestops are required for fire rating. |
#35
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Drywall install question
replying to Ed Pawlowski, Iggy wrote:
Yep, but I couldn't sell that here either and was told I'm wrong. The laughable "pros" only do a good and proper job *IF* it's specified...it's "screw everyone" until that specification shows up. It's called Cutting Corners, if it's hidden it's skipped and if the hack's work has to be fixed then it's just a price increase for needlessly forcing wrong into right. You've got wheels, why would you want tires too is the mentality. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-189846-.htm |
#36
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Drywall install question
Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us...
On 8/19/2017 9:15 AM, wrote: On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 16:47:21 -0400, Tekkie® wrote: That would not be 100% accurate. This is the ICC structural code chapter 7 Footnote to TABLE 721.6.2(1) TIME ASSIGNED TO WALLBOARD MEMBRANES (Goes on to list various types of wallboard and the fire rating) "b. Gypsum wallboard installed over framing or furring shall be installed so that all edges are supported..." Thank you for the reference. In my eyes this makes vertical install mandatory... But then again what do I know... Only if there needs to be a fire rating. If you put firestops in the framing all edges can be supported in horizontal installation. Most fire-stops are positioned ______-------_______ for nailing purposes through the studs. I am not a builder but expressing what I have seen. -- Tekkie |
#37
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Drywall install question
On Sat, 19 Aug 2017 14:45:52 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote: Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us... On 8/19/2017 9:15 AM, wrote: On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 16:47:21 -0400, Tekkie® wrote: That would not be 100% accurate. This is the ICC structural code chapter 7 Footnote to TABLE 721.6.2(1) TIME ASSIGNED TO WALLBOARD MEMBRANES (Goes on to list various types of wallboard and the fire rating) "b. Gypsum wallboard installed over framing or furring shall be installed so that all edges are supported..." Thank you for the reference. In my eyes this makes vertical install mandatory... But then again what do I know... Only if there needs to be a fire rating. If you put firestops in the framing all edges can be supported in horizontal installation. Most fire-stops are positioned ______-------_______ for nailing purposes through the studs. I am not a builder but expressing what I have seen. Now that they all use nail guns, toe nailing those fire stops in is not just for seasoned carpenters. |
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