I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking the
whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking around
the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I disassembled the
faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and decided to re
putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally noticed the
hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course I contacted
the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

I should mention that the 1/2" wide is because the repair material is still
intact but it is leaking around it. I am hoping to put like some superglue
to rebind the two. But want to hear from the experience in this group 1st.

thanks again, Bill
"Bill Reece" wrote in message
m...
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

I've had good luck using gas tank repair putty on all my leaks.

Any patch that will work on a gas tank that is full of gasoline has
to be the best.

Some people have not learned to use however. You cut off a chunk and
roll it in your hand until it get hot and then slap it on the crack
while it is still heating.

And you need to support the bottom of the tub so there is no flex
when standing on the drain area. Use the gas tank putty to finish off
to make a solid support.





On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 10:43:59 -0500, "Bill Reece"
wrote:

I should mention that the 1/2" wide is because the repair material is still
intact but it is leaking around it. I am hoping to put like some superglue
to rebind the two. But want to hear from the experience in this group 1st.

thanks again, Bill
"Bill Reece" wrote in message
om...
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

"Bill Reece" wrote in message
m...
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.


On one of the Real Estate Guy radio shows mention a new consumer friendly
law passed which protects you from workmanship and defects for a very long
time, if not forever. If this applies to your builder, I don't think they be
laughing very loud. The damage to downstairs could amount to a substantial
sum, even though you don't see the damage other than water stains. If leaks
continue I would open up the ceiling and let it breath and air dry. Also you
should get this fixed ASAP before any mold sets in.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.


Either case would be expensive, see where your builder stand first.
Fiberglass should be easy to repair.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

Bill,

You need to find a lawyer and buy an hours worth of advice. It's hard to
say but I suspect that this is the plumber's problem, not yours. Since this
was a "hidden"problem the statute of limitations likely does not apply yet.
So talk to a lawyer, the plumber, the builder (?), and the various insurers.
You should get a new tub and extensive repair of the leak damage if there is
any justice where you live.

Dave M.

On Jan 27, 9:11 am, "Bill Reece" wrote:
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking the
whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking around
the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I disassembled the
faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and decided to re
putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally noticed the
hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course I contacted
the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.
anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.
Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

Considering the high prices on these combos, and labor involved, it
might be prudent to hire a specialist for permanent repair. Check your
Yellow pages, get references, of course, and quotes and weigh that
against the likely $2K a replacement would cost. If your area lists no
qualified people, you could still have a good repair done by any boat
shop hull repair specialist. As a last resort, you could do some
serious research and buy polyester or epoxy repair materials and give
it a go. It isn't all that hard to grind away the hurt and bond the
good pieces back in shape. While the latter might not look great, it
would be durable and low cost. Good luck.

Joe

well, thanks so far.

I can't get to the underside of the tub without ripping out the ceiling of
my downstairs bathroom. So, I guess the gas tank putty is out.

I have asked my builder they sent the go-between company out to investigate
and then said no dice.

I hate lawyers and they make my skin crawl but maybe I need one here. But
should I put my 2k in fixing the tub or put 2k into a lawyer and make them
fix the tub. How do you know the lawyer isn't bought off behind the deal
anyway. Is there a way to get a honest lawyer?

After rereading David's advice I may go to my home owner insurance company
and have them advise me. Surely, they have a lawyer in their pocket.

Thanks again, Bill


"Bill Reece" wrote in message
m...
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

In article , "Bill Reece" wrote:
well, thanks so far.

I can't get to the underside of the tub without ripping out the ceiling of
my downstairs bathroom. So, I guess the gas tank putty is out.

I have asked my builder they sent the go-between company out to investigate
and then said no dice.

I hate lawyers and they make my skin crawl but maybe I need one here. But
should I put my 2k in fixing the tub or put 2k into a lawyer and make them
fix the tub. How do you know the lawyer isn't bought off behind the deal
anyway. Is there a way to get a honest lawyer?

After rereading David's advice I may go to my home owner insurance company
and have them advise me. Surely, they have a lawyer in their pocket.

Before you hire a lawyer, you can play one yourself. Send the
builder a written letter that sets out the problem and demands
a solution. You can make it clear that if the problem is not
solved within a reasonable time, you will be forced to take
additional steps including but not limited to contacting the
BBB, State Licensing Board etc etc.

And even if you do hire a lawyer later on, a copy of this
letter is the *first* thing he/she will want from you, so
you might as well get it done. Today ;-)


--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In article , lucky1
@insightbb.com says...
well, thanks so far.

I can't get to the underside of the tub without ripping out the ceiling of
my downstairs bathroom. So, I guess the gas tank putty is out.

I have asked my builder they sent the go-between company out to investigate
and then said no dice.

I hate lawyers and they make my skin crawl but maybe I need one here. But
should I put my 2k in fixing the tub or put 2k into a lawyer and make them
fix the tub. How do you know the lawyer isn't bought off behind the deal
anyway. Is there a way to get a honest lawyer?

After rereading David's advice I may go to my home owner insurance company
and have them advise me. Surely, they have a lawyer in their pocket.

I don't know where you live but most states (all but Kentucky[*])
have a small claims limit above $2K. You don't need a lawyer for
small claims court. There are guides available for free or cheap
that tell how to go about it in each states.
[*] http://www.nolo.com/article.cfm/obje...A1B-C67D-4B95-
AD615532C3AE0862/104/308/273/ART/

--
Keith

Malcolm Hoar wrote:

Before you hire a lawyer, you can play one yourself. Send the
builder a written letter that sets out the problem and demands
a solution. You can make it clear that if the problem is not
solved within a reasonable time, you will be forced to take
additional steps including but not limited to contacting the
BBB, State Licensing Board etc etc.

Sending the letter, certified, is appropriate. Do not issue specific
threats.


Something like:

"We demand that you contact us within ten days of receipt of this letter to
schedule the appropriate remedial action."

is sufficient.

In article . com, Joe says...



On Jan 27, 9:11 am, "Bill Reece" wrote:
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking the
whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking around
the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I disassembled the
faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and decided to re
putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally noticed the
hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course I contacted
the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.
anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.
Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

Considering the high prices on these combos, and labor involved, it
might be prudent to hire a specialist for permanent repair. Check your
Yellow pages, get references, of course, and quotes and weigh that
against the likely $2K a replacement would cost. If your area lists no
qualified people, you could still have a good repair done by any boat
shop hull repair specialist. As a last resort, you could do some
serious research and buy polyester or epoxy repair materials and give
it a go. It isn't all that hard to grind away the hurt and bond the
good pieces back in shape. While the latter might not look great, it
would be durable and low cost. Good luck.


I had one of those combos when I moved in to my house. It actually split along
the bottom (and I'm normal weight). Duct tape did the trick until I remodded
the bathroom (though that probably wouldn't work here).

IMO the real answer to this is to upgrade the bathroom to a cast iron tub and
tile surround. It's a substandard setup to begin with.

But of course one may not have the wherewithall currently to do that. I'd see
first if I could pursue this in small claims court and/or what you've suggested.

Banty

Bill,

While it may not hurt to speak with your insurer that's not what I meant.
You need to speak with the plumber's and the builder's insurers. And follow
up with a letter to the person you speak with. But first buy an hour or two
of a lawyer's time and get advice about your local laws and your chances for
a successful suit or settlement and a good strategy. Obviously it will be
cheaper to settle than to sue. Since you do not know what damage these leaks
have done you can't yet presume that this is a small claims case.

yep, you guessed it. I live in Kentucky.

But I wrote a letter and e-mailed it to them. But I will make a hard copy
and send it certified.

Thanks

oh, I will check out that nolo site, thanks again
"krw" wrote in message
t...
In article , lucky1
@insightbb.com says...
well, thanks so far.

I can't get to the underside of the tub without ripping out the ceiling
of
my downstairs bathroom. So, I guess the gas tank putty is out.

I have asked my builder they sent the go-between company out to
investigate
and then said no dice.

I hate lawyers and they make my skin crawl but maybe I need one here.
But
should I put my 2k in fixing the tub or put 2k into a lawyer and make
them
fix the tub. How do you know the lawyer isn't bought off behind the deal
anyway. Is there a way to get a honest lawyer?

After rereading David's advice I may go to my home owner insurance
company
and have them advise me. Surely, they have a lawyer in their pocket.

I don't know where you live but most states (all but Kentucky[*])
have a small claims limit above $2K. You don't need a lawyer for
small claims court. There are guides available for free or cheap
that tell how to go about it in each states.

[*] http://www.nolo.com/article.cfm/obje...A1B-C67D-4B95-
AD615532C3AE0862/104/308/273/ART/

--
Keith

I would also replace the crappy fiberglass tub with a cast iron tub.

In article , lucky1
@insightbb.com says...
yep, you guessed it. I live in Kentucky.

Well... Even in KY you have a $1500 small claims limit. It might
be cheaper to forget the $500, if it has to go that far.

OT: We're considering a move to KY later this year.

But I wrote a letter and e-mailed it to them. But I will make a hard copy
and send it certified.

...w/return receipt.

--
Keith

On Jan 27, 3:59 pm, "David Martel" wrote:
Bill,

While it may not hurt to speak with your insurer that's not what I meant.
You need to speak with the plumber's and the builder's insurers. And follow
up with a letter to the person you speak with. But first buy an hour or two
of a lawyer's time and get advice about your local laws and your chances for
a successful suit or settlement and a good strategy. Obviously it will be
cheaper to settle than to sue. Since you do not know what damage these leaks
have done you can't yet presume that this is a small claims case.


First thing I'd do is check any new home warranty that you have.
Here in NJ, these are routine and cover a variety of faults for
varying periods, depending on whether it's structural or just a
leak. You may find that at 3 years, it's covered.

Then, if the builder refuses to have it fixed, I wouldn;'t waste money
a lawyer. Get it fixed and then sue the builder in small claims.
Even with a lawyer, they could still tell you to get lost, because
they know the lawyer threatening to sue is just an idle threat,
because these cases in regular court are prohibitively expensive.
With $1500 limit in small claims, I would think that should about
cover it.

If the tub was damaged with a 2 inch X 1/2" crack, I would have
insisted on a new tub and not have accepted a repair, at least not
without a big fight prior to closing.

it was undisclosed, I had no clue.

wrote in message
ups.com...


On Jan 27, 3:59 pm, "David Martel" wrote:
Bill,

While it may not hurt to speak with your insurer that's not what I
meant.
You need to speak with the plumber's and the builder's insurers. And
follow
up with a letter to the person you speak with. But first buy an hour or
two
of a lawyer's time and get advice about your local laws and your chances
for
a successful suit or settlement and a good strategy. Obviously it will be
cheaper to settle than to sue. Since you do not know what damage these
leaks
have done you can't yet presume that this is a small claims case.


First thing I'd do is check any new home warranty that you have.
Here in NJ, these are routine and cover a variety of faults for
varying periods, depending on whether it's structural or just a
leak. You may find that at 3 years, it's covered.

Then, if the builder refuses to have it fixed, I wouldn;'t waste money
a lawyer. Get it fixed and then sue the builder in small claims.
Even with a lawyer, they could still tell you to get lost, because
they know the lawyer threatening to sue is just an idle threat,
because these cases in regular court are prohibitively expensive.
With $1500 limit in small claims, I would think that should about
cover it.

If the tub was damaged with a 2 inch X 1/2" crack, I would have
insisted on a new tub and not have accepted a repair, at least not
without a big fight prior to closing.

OK!, thanks for all the advice:

A rep from the builders is coming out Friday with either "the plumber" or "a
plumber". I'm not sure which, but I hope it's "a plumber" because I do not
intend to debate it with "the plumber". If that is the case and he is
contentious with me, then I'll not engage. Instead I'll let him blather.

No, I haven't talked to a lawyer, yet. And hope I never have to if I play
my cards right.

thanks again, I'll keep ya'll posted.


"Bill Reece" wrote in message
m...
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

"Bill Reece" wrote in message
m...
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

I just had my builder, thier plumber, and a tub repair guy here looking at
my upstairs tub. They had thier repair guy look at it and he determined it
not to be a repair but a factory defect. So, they want to know if I want it
patched or replaced. A lot to consider here because of the framed in tub
would be a big job and a lot of inconvience whereas a patch would be quick
and they say very reliable. I'm going to research it some. But I am just
glad they are going to do something about it. And they all seemed very
honest and forthright about it. I think maybe the earlier response was a
bad call by the warranty company.

Does anyone know how reliable these patches are?

Thanks

On Jan 27, 9:11 am, "Bill Reece" wrote:
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking the
whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking around
the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I disassembled the
faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and decided to re
putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally noticed the
hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course I contacted
the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

Less you are going to pull it to get at the bottom don,t bother get
new tub, patches have to be done from the bottom as that is where it
will get its strength

I would ask them if they'd do the following...

Rip out the old enclosure. Ask if he will provide the labor if you
buy the materials.

Get his plumber to install a new tub (that you buy)
as well as get the guys to come in and install the wonderboard for
the tile enclosure etc. If the builder is really nice they would
provide the tile guy to tile the enclosure while you pay for all
the materials.

In the end, you'd have a much nicer bathroom that'll last for many
years to come. The plastic shower enclosures are just crap.





On Feb 2, 11:27 am, "Bill Reece" wrote:
"Bill Reece" wrote in message

m...





I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

I just had my builder, thier plumber, and a tub repair guy here looking at
my upstairs tub. They had thier repair guy look at it and he determined it
not to be a repair but a factory defect. So, they want to know if I want it
patched or replaced. A lot to consider here because of the framed in tub
would be a big job and a lot of inconvience whereas a patch would be quick
and they say very reliable. I'm going to research it some. But I am just
glad they are going to do something about it. And they all seemed very
honest and forthright about it. I think maybe the earlier response was a
bad call by the warranty company.

Does anyone know how reliable these patches are?

Thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"me buy?" the only money they will get out of me is if I upgrade. I'm
thinking they will replace the defective tub with something they do not have
to tear the walls out to get in. It is a factory or manufacture defect.
They are the ones who will foot the bill. "Aquaglass" I believe. And this
guy has bought a lot of tubs from them. I get your drift though. I may try
to parlay this into a much nicer tub/shower situation.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I would ask them if they'd do the following...

Rip out the old enclosure. Ask if he will provide the labor if you
buy the materials.

Get his plumber to install a new tub (that you buy)
as well as get the guys to come in and install the wonderboard for
the tile enclosure etc. If the builder is really nice they would
provide the tile guy to tile the enclosure while you pay for all
the materials.

In the end, you'd have a much nicer bathroom that'll last for many
years to come. The plastic shower enclosures are just crap.





On Feb 2, 11:27 am, "Bill Reece" wrote:
"Bill Reece" wrote in message

m...





I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my
tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They
then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced
the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I
disassembled the faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking
and
decided to re putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally
noticed the hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of
course
I contacted the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub
and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain
as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is
you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type
of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

I just had my builder, thier plumber, and a tub repair guy here looking
at
my upstairs tub. They had thier repair guy look at it and he determined
it
not to be a repair but a factory defect. So, they want to know if I want
it
patched or replaced. A lot to consider here because of the framed in tub
would be a big job and a lot of inconvience whereas a patch would be
quick
and they say very reliable. I'm going to research it some. But I am
just
glad they are going to do something about it. And they all seemed very
honest and forthright about it. I think maybe the earlier response was a
bad call by the warranty company.

Does anyone know how reliable these patches are?

Thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll keep that in mind, thanks.

"jim" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jan 27, 9:11 am, "Bill Reece" wrote:
I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my
tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking
the
whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking
around
the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I disassembled
the
faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and decided to re
putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally noticed the
hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course I
contacted
the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.

anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.

For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type
of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.

thanks, Bill

Less you are going to pull it to get at the bottom don,t bother get
new tub, patches have to be done from the bottom as that is where it
will get its strength

On Feb 2, 1:44 pm, "Bill Reece" wrote:
"me buy?" the only money they will get out of me is if I upgrade. I'm
thinking they will replace the defective tub with something they do not have
to tear the walls out to get in. It is a factory or manufacture defect.
They are the ones who will foot the bill. "Aquaglass" I believe. And this
guy has bought a lot of tubs from them. I get your drift though. I may try
to parlay this into a much nicer tub/shower situation.

Best bet is a Kohler one piece unit. I've had one for nearly a decade
and it still looks perfect. It did not need extra bottom support like
some brands do as it sits flat on the floor. Before that it was all
tile...no more, though.

In the end, you'd have a much nicer bathroom that'll last for many
years to come. The plastic shower enclosures are just crap.

Don't agree, see above. The fiberglass units are much easier to keep
clean. No nasty grout lines to soak up soap scum, etc. Many motels
these days keep their room cleaning costs down by specifying
fiberglass facilities. HTH

Joe

On Feb 2, 4:24 pm, "Joe" wrote:
On Feb 2, 1:44 pm, "Bill Reece" wrote:

"me buy?" the only money they will get out of me is if I upgrade. I'm
thinking they will replace the defective tub with something they do not have
to tear the walls out to get in. It is a factory or manufacture defect.
They are the ones who will foot the bill. "Aquaglass" I believe. And this
guy has bought a lot of tubs from them. I get your drift though. I may try
to parlay this into a much nicer tub/shower situation.

Best bet is a Kohler one piece unit. I've had one for nearly a decade
and it still looks perfect. It did not need extra bottom support like
some brands do as it sits flat on the floor. Before that it was all
tile...no more, though.

In the end, you'd have a much nicer bathroom that'll last for many
years to come. The plastic shower enclosures are just crap.

Don't agree, see above. The fiberglass units are much easier to keep
clean. No nasty grout lines to soak up soap scum, etc. Many motels
these days keep their room cleaning costs down by specifying
fiberglass facilities. HTH

Joe

This tub was never done right to begin with if they didnt put sand or
morter mix under it. When you get the new one put in insist this is
done and you will have no promblems. Right behind the skirt you put
board to act as a stop for the sand fastened at each end, then you put
vapor barrier down across the floor and up the walls 6to8 inches . Put
down 1 1/2 to 2 inches playground sand or dry morter mix and work the
bottom of the tub down into it. This will give the tub firm support
across the bottom. YThis is the only way to assure no movement under
your weight of the bottom of the tub, up and down. This is the only
way to do a shower stall Ive put in at least 100 to 150 and never had
a leak. Also remember you caulk the door from the outside only not the
inside Goodluck