My (controversial) Theory
 

For the electricians he

As you know there are three ways to wire a wall outlet/receptacle.

#1. Pressure plate - known as backstab in which the stripped conductor
is simply inserted into the back of the receptacle and is held in place
by friction.

#2. Side-Wire - self explanatory.

#3. Back-wire - conductor goes in back but is held in place by
tightening side-screws. Supposedly preferred for use only with stranded
conductor - but how many homes of any vintage are run with STRANDED
wire? ? ? !

My theory is based upon some work I did regarding a very large branch
in my home last year. This branch covers all the receptacles in the
living-dining area, the bedroom, and (for some reason) the range hood
over the kitchen stove. Only the fridge, stove, and some counter
outlets and the bathroom are on different breakers.

Built in 1969, this place was completely back-stabbed with 14gauge
copper. I converted most of the aforementioned branch to side-wire.
However, I had to replace one outlet behind the couch as I cracked it
while chipping away literally 1/8" of layers of paint to get the
friggin' thing out the wall!! The receptacle I replaced it with was
commercial spec, which I wired according to #3, remembering to tighten
accordingly.

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster

My (controversial) Theory
 

NO




"ChrisCoaster" wrote in message
ups.com...
For the electricians he

As you know there are three ways to wire a wall outlet/receptacle.

#1. Pressure plate - known as backstab in which the stripped conductor
is simply inserted into the back of the receptacle and is held in place
by friction.

#2. Side-Wire - self explanatory.

#3. Back-wire - conductor goes in back but is held in place by
tightening side-screws. Supposedly preferred for use only with stranded
conductor - but how many homes of any vintage are run with STRANDED
wire? ? ? !

My theory is based upon some work I did regarding a very large branch
in my home last year. This branch covers all the receptacles in the
living-dining area, the bedroom, and (for some reason) the range hood
over the kitchen stove. Only the fridge, stove, and some counter
outlets and the bathroom are on different breakers.

Built in 1969, this place was completely back-stabbed with 14gauge
copper. I converted most of the aforementioned branch to side-wire.
However, I had to replace one outlet behind the couch as I cracked it
while chipping away literally 1/8" of layers of paint to get the
friggin' thing out the wall!! The receptacle I replaced it with was
commercial spec, which I wired according to #3, remembering to tighten
accordingly.

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster

My (controversial) Theory
 

ChrisCoaster wrote:
For the electricians he

As you know there are three ways to wire a wall outlet/receptacle.

#1. Pressure plate - known as backstab in which the stripped conductor
is simply inserted into the back of the receptacle and is held in place
by friction.

#2. Side-Wire - self explanatory.

#3. Back-wire - conductor goes in back but is held in place by
tightening side-screws. Supposedly preferred for use only with stranded
conductor - but how many homes of any vintage are run with STRANDED
wire? ? ? !

My theory is based upon some work I did regarding a very large branch
in my home last year. This branch covers all the receptacles in the
living-dining area, the bedroom, and (for some reason) the range hood
over the kitchen stove. Only the fridge, stove, and some counter
outlets and the bathroom are on different breakers.

Built in 1969, this place was completely back-stabbed with 14gauge
copper. I converted most of the aforementioned branch to side-wire.
However, I had to replace one outlet behind the couch as I cracked it
while chipping away literally 1/8" of layers of paint to get the
friggin' thing out the wall!! The receptacle I replaced it with was
commercial spec, which I wired according to #3, remembering to tighten
accordingly.

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster

I would hope that the designers of the outlets had tested the
connections to ensure that thay were very similar in performance. I
have seen backstab TYPE connections that led to very high heating of
the connection due to minimal contact areas but NOT in a domestic
outlet.

I tend to use the sidewire connection myself simply because its easier
to remove if the outlet needs to be changed.

In my area wiring through an outlet is forbidden by code so all outlets
must be either pigtailed or the end of the circuit.

If your backstabs were producing a significant extra drain , I would
expect to find high temperatures at the outlets and a noticable voltage
drop under load. (I may be wrong about that - not an electrician)

My (controversial) Theory
 

I'm an electrical engineer and electronics hardware designer by trade, and a
home electrician occasionally. I find the theory and observations (better
looking video, better sounding audio, lower power consumption) to totally
lack physical rationale and credibility. I would put the observations into
the category of "wishful thinking".

Unless your outlets had substantial voltage drops due to (dangerously high)
resistance and heating, then ***no way*** will you see truly the effects you
claim.


Smarty
wrote in message
ups.com...

ChrisCoaster wrote:
For the electricians he

As you know there are three ways to wire a wall outlet/receptacle.

#1. Pressure plate - known as backstab in which the stripped conductor
is simply inserted into the back of the receptacle and is held in place
by friction.

#2. Side-Wire - self explanatory.

#3. Back-wire - conductor goes in back but is held in place by
tightening side-screws. Supposedly preferred for use only with stranded
conductor - but how many homes of any vintage are run with STRANDED
wire? ? ? !

My theory is based upon some work I did regarding a very large branch
in my home last year. This branch covers all the receptacles in the
living-dining area, the bedroom, and (for some reason) the range hood
over the kitchen stove. Only the fridge, stove, and some counter
outlets and the bathroom are on different breakers.

Built in 1969, this place was completely back-stabbed with 14gauge
copper. I converted most of the aforementioned branch to side-wire.
However, I had to replace one outlet behind the couch as I cracked it
while chipping away literally 1/8" of layers of paint to get the
friggin' thing out the wall!! The receptacle I replaced it with was
commercial spec, which I wired according to #3, remembering to tighten
accordingly.

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster

I would hope that the designers of the outlets had tested the
connections to ensure that thay were very similar in performance. I
have seen backstab TYPE connections that led to very high heating of
the connection due to minimal contact areas but NOT in a domestic
outlet.

I tend to use the sidewire connection myself simply because its easier
to remove if the outlet needs to be changed.

In my area wiring through an outlet is forbidden by code so all outlets
must be either pigtailed or the end of the circuit.

If your backstabs were producing a significant extra drain , I would
expect to find high temperatures at the outlets and a noticable voltage
drop under load. (I may be wrong about that - not an electrician)

My (controversial) Theory
 

On 13 Jan 2007 19:26:39 -0800, "ChrisCoaster"
wrote:

For the electricians he

As you know there are three ways to wire a wall outlet/receptacle.

#1. Pressure plate - known as backstab in which the stripped conductor
is simply inserted into the back of the receptacle and is held in place
by friction.

#2. Side-Wire - self explanatory.

#3. Back-wire - conductor goes in back but is held in place by
tightening side-screws. Supposedly preferred for use only with stranded
conductor - but how many homes of any vintage are run with STRANDED
wire? ? ? !

My theory is based upon some work I did regarding a very large branch
in my home last year. This branch covers all the receptacles in the
living-dining area, the bedroom, and (for some reason) the range hood
over the kitchen stove. Only the fridge, stove, and some counter
outlets and the bathroom are on different breakers.

Built in 1969, this place was completely back-stabbed with 14gauge
copper. I converted most of the aforementioned branch to side-wire.
However, I had to replace one outlet behind the couch as I cracked it
while chipping away literally 1/8" of layers of paint to get the
friggin' thing out the wall!! The receptacle I replaced it with was
commercial spec, which I wired according to #3, remembering to tighten
accordingly.

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster

No.

My (controversial) Theory
 

ChrisCoaster wrote:
- My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums

Please add alt.home.repair to the list of forums you are banned from.

ChrisCoaster wrote:
For the electricians he

As you know there are three ways to wire a wall outlet/receptacle.

#1. Pressure plate - known as backstab in which the stripped conductor
is simply inserted into the back of the receptacle and is held in place
by friction.

#2. Side-Wire - self explanatory.

#3. Back-wire - conductor goes in back but is held in place by
tightening side-screws. Supposedly preferred for use only with stranded
conductor - but how many homes of any vintage are run with STRANDED
wire? ? ? !

My theory is based upon some work I did regarding a very large branch
in my home last year. This branch covers all the receptacles in the
living-dining area, the bedroom, and (for some reason) the range hood
over the kitchen stove. Only the fridge, stove, and some counter
outlets and the bathroom are on different breakers.

Built in 1969, this place was completely back-stabbed with 14gauge
copper. I converted most of the aforementioned branch to side-wire.
However, I had to replace one outlet behind the couch as I cracked it
while chipping away literally 1/8" of layers of paint to get the
friggin' thing out the wall!! The receptacle I replaced it with was
commercial spec, which I wired according to #3, remembering to tighten
accordingly.

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster

My (controversial) Theory
 

ChrisCoaster wrote:

I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.


Electronics looking and sounding better because of this is almost
certainly all in your head. Same would go for power consumption. It's
kinda like when you change the oil in your car. It almost seems like
the car is running better because of it (at least for me). But, it's
all in your head.

-Felder

My (controversial) Theory
 

"ChrisCoaster" wrote in message
ups.com...
For the electricians he
I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster


No. Your Wife probably snuck in a couple compact fluorescent lamps or took
away your TV and computer.

Bill

My (controversial) Theory
 

Smarty wrote:
I'm an electrical engineer and electronics hardware designer by
trade, and a home electrician occasionally. I find the theory and
observations (better looking video, better sounding audio, lower
power consumption) to totally lack physical rationale and
credibility. I would put the observations into the category of
"wishful thinking".
Unless your outlets had substantial voltage drops due to (dangerously
high) resistance and heating, then ***no way*** will you see truly
the effects you claim.

I call troll, but it might be possible if he did such a bad job of rewiring the
outlets that a good portion of them no longer work at all. That could result in
a reduction of power usage.

My (controversial) Theory
 

Interesting situation. Some food for thought...

I suppose you could get a situation where there was a poor connection and
this would cause an intermittent off/on of the power to something.

Then that something would use more electricity when first turning on than
once it was on. So if constantly going off/on due to a poor connection, it
would be using more electricity than a good connection and always on.

Then there are electronic power supplies, surge suppressors, UPS, and power
line conditioners. I think some of these short to ground when they "see" a
voltage surge. I don't know if a poor or intermittent off/on connection
might cause one of these devices to momentarily short to ground [causing
more power use]???

Or would a poor connection cause some device to create a voltage spike which
would then cause a surge suppressor elsewhere to momentarily short to ground
[thus causing a brief additional power draw]?

Would the electronics in some electronic power supplies cause a device to
draw more power if it had a poor connection?

Then I have seen space heaters which have a poor connection and the plug is
hot to the touch. If this same space heater is plugged into a brand new
outlet which has a good connection, the plug is cold to the touch. I don't
know if the poor connection situation would draw more power or not???



"ChrisCoaster" wrote in message
For the electricians he

As you know there are three ways to wire a wall outlet/receptacle.

#1. Pressure plate - known as backstab in which the stripped conductor
is simply inserted into the back of the receptacle and is held in place
by friction.

#2. Side-Wire - self explanatory.

#3. Back-wire - conductor goes in back but is held in place by
tightening side-screws. Supposedly preferred for use only with stranded
conductor - but how many homes of any vintage are run with STRANDED
wire? ? ? !

My theory is based upon some work I did regarding a very large branch
in my home last year. This branch covers all the receptacles in the
living-dining area, the bedroom, and (for some reason) the range hood
over the kitchen stove. Only the fridge, stove, and some counter
outlets and the bathroom are on different breakers.

Built in 1969, this place was completely back-stabbed with 14gauge
copper. I converted most of the aforementioned branch to side-wire.
However, I had to replace one outlet behind the couch as I cracked it
while chipping away literally 1/8" of layers of paint to get the
friggin' thing out the wall!! The receptacle I replaced it with was
commercial spec, which I wired according to #3, remembering to tighten
accordingly.

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster

My (controversial) Theory
 

Berkshire Bill wrote:
"ChrisCoaster" wrote in message
ups.com...
For the electricians he
I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make



How anyone could think a difference in electrical usage from one 6
month period to another period a year later is attributable to the type
of wiring connection to an outlet is beyond me. Just about everyones
usage has considerable variation from obvious things that make a huge
difference. Like the weather affecting how long heating or cooling
runs. Take a look at 6 month bills from 10 years and you will see
considerable variation, unless your only load is fixed, like a 1000watt
bulb on a timer.

For those connections to have any real and significant effect on your
electric bill, the previous connection would have to be generating
considerable heat, due to resistance. And if that were routinely
possible, it would present such a safety hazhard that it would have
been well known and banned a long time ago.







a difference?

-ChrisCoaster


No. Your Wife probably snuck in a couple compact fluorescent lamps or took
away your TV and computer.

Bill

My (controversial) Theory
 

First the OP did a good thing replacing cheap poor backstab outlets.
remember the entire outlet is worth nothing and sells for just a bit
more.:)

I had a radio once that had a slight hiss. took it to the shop no
noise, wierd. back to the kitchen hiss back on some stations the ones I
liked.

back to the shop, perfect...... perfect in every other location I tried
radio. other radios didnt hiss in this outlet........

finally replaced outlet hiss gone forever:)

so for this radio with this outlet it was bad news.

might be for the OP too, if its better GREAT!

================================================== ==========

as for power use its possible, systems in devices are complicated, like
computers and UPS.

imagine a electric heater plugged in a oputlet in a outside non
insulated wall.

in the winter the heater is used the excess heat from the poor backstab
outlet dissapates into the cold wall doing little to warm the room so
the heater has to run longer.....

My (controversial) Theory
 

As I read the post, he only replaced (1), because he broke it. He just
changed how the outlets from 1969 were wired



wrote in message
oups.com...
First the OP did a good thing replacing cheap poor backstab outlets.
remember the entire outlet is worth nothing and sells for just a bit
more.:)

I had a radio once that had a slight hiss. took it to the shop no
noise, wierd. back to the kitchen hiss back on some stations the ones I
liked.

back to the shop, perfect...... perfect in every other location I tried
radio. other radios didnt hiss in this outlet........

finally replaced outlet hiss gone forever:)

so for this radio with this outlet it was bad news.

might be for the OP too, if its better GREAT!

================================================== ==========

as for power use its possible, systems in devices are complicated, like
computers and UPS.

imagine a electric heater plugged in a oputlet in a outside non
insulated wall.

in the winter the heater is used the excess heat from the poor backstab
outlet dissapates into the cold wall doing little to warm the room so
the heater has to run longer.....

My (controversial) Theory
 

ChrisCoaster wrote:

I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on
my electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of
2005. That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough
that items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also
believe that my electronics both look and sound better after
converting most of this branch from back-stab to side wire or back
wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

Your theory has a name: it's called "The Placebo Effect."

If YOU think your record player sounds better, the lights are a little
brighter, and your bill is a little less, then you have discovered something
that, for you, works and works well.

Theory be damned: you have empirical proof of the rightness of your efforts.
Do not be discouraged by non-believers. All religions start out that way.

My (controversial) Theory
 

On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 08:06:45 -0500, "Berkshire Bill"
wrote:


"ChrisCoaster" wrote in message
oups.com...
For the electricians he
I believe that my re-wiring had an effect on the CONSUMPTION data on my
electric bills for May - November of 2006 vs. the same period of 2005.
That is, the avg. daily kWh used. The actual bill was not much
different - only a buck or 2 less than 2005, because the local utility
had increased rates by 25% last April. Needless to say, the avg. kWH
used was down significantly compared for each of the same months in
2005.

My theory - which got me banned from the doityourself.com forums - is
that I improved the electrical conductivity of this circuit enough that
items running off it actually ran more efficiently. I also believe
that my electronics both look and sound better after converting most of
this branch from back-stab to side wire or back wire.

Did I increase the contact area on those receptacles that much to make
a difference?

-ChrisCoaster


No. Your Wife probably snuck in a couple compact fluorescent lamps or took
away your TV and computer.

Bill


Or......His wife could have replaced her industrial strength "body"
massager with the milk man.

My (controversial) Theory
 

having seen so many wierd troubles fixing machines since 1975 I wouldnt
dismiss it as impossible.........