I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

TIA for any shared experience!
--
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

A hammer drill and a carbide-tipped masonary bit would be best,
although you might be able to get by with a regular drill.

I doubt you're going to drill deep enough to "puncture" the wall and
let water in.

BTW have you heard of Tap-Con or Pro-Con fasteners? They are screws
that go directly into the concrete without anchors. You drill a hole
with the proper size bit for the screw you will be using and then drive
the screw in with a power driver. One thing to remember: They are
typically used for permanent installations. In most cases, if you take
one out, you can't reuse the hole (unless you upsize the screw).


Todd H. wrote:
I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

TIA for any shared experience!
--
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

DerbyDad03 wrote:
A hammer drill and a carbide-tipped masonary bit would be best,
although you might be able to get by with a regular drill.

I doubt you're going to drill deep enough to "puncture" the wall and
let water in.

BTW have you heard of Tap-Con or Pro-Con fasteners? They are screws
that go directly into the concrete without anchors. You drill a hole
with the proper size bit for the screw you will be using and then drive
the screw in with a power driver. One thing to remember: They are
typically used for permanent installations. In most cases, if you take
one out, you can't reuse the hole (unless you upsize the screw).


Todd H. wrote:
I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.


be prepared to relocate whatever your installing in case you hit rebar

In article , (Todd H.) wrote:

I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

It's tougher to drill poured concrete than concrete block but it can be
done.

"Todd H." wrote in message ...

I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

The painless solution for this problem is to buy some 1x6, cut it into 3 or
4 foot lengths, and lag-screw one end into the sill plate high on the wall.
You can then screw or bolt the shelving units to those. (Fasten the shelf to
the 1x6 at a couple of points a foot or two apart, and don't put the upper
lag screws in the last inch or two of the 1x6.) No muss, no fuss, no need
for a hammer drill, and easy to remove when you rearrange the basement.
It'll be plenty strong for kid or mild earthquake tip resistance. Other
alternative is to go straight up, and belay the shelves off to 1x straps
attached to the joists.


aem sends...

In article , (Todd H.) wrote:

I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors
Anything I should know/avoid?

Drill away, my friend.

I have mounted countless phone SNIs to such walls and only ONCE did I
encounter an obstruction, presumably a rebar.

I guess my primary concern would be opening a water infiltration path

You said "modest" anchors - not THROUGH-THE-WALL anchoring systems used for
buckling/collapsing walls. Of course, unless the drilling site is below
grade, water infiltration is a non-issue.

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

Correct. The difference between a "regular" drill and hammer drill is like
night and day when it comes to drilling masonry. Good luck!
--

JR

No project too small
All projects too big

wrote in message
...

"Todd H." wrote in message ...

I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

The painless solution for this problem is to buy some 1x6, cut it into 3
or 4 foot lengths, and lag-screw one end into the sill plate high on the
wall. You can then screw or bolt the shelving units to those. (Fasten the
shelf to the 1x6 at a couple of points a foot or two apart, and don't put
the upper lag screws in the last inch or two of the 1x6.) No muss, no
fuss, no need for a hammer drill, and easy to remove when you rearrange
the basement. It'll be plenty strong for kid or mild earthquake tip
resistance. Other alternative is to go straight up, and belay the shelves
off to 1x straps attached to the joists.


aem sends...

The painless solution is to teach the nieces and nephews not to screw with
your
stuff. I've got five grand-daughters and have never done anything to
"child-proof"
my house. Even 35 years ago with my own kids.

Apparently we are raising a generation of jerks with no respect for others
property.
--
Herb
herbstein.com

Todd H. wrote:
I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

TIA for any shared experience!

Go UP. Anchor the shelving to the ceiling.

Jim Redelfs wrote:


I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?


Correct. The difference between a "regular" drill and hammer drill is like
night and day when it comes to drilling masonry. Good luck!

Don't forget a SHARP bit. I put a laundry tub in the
garage a while back. I went through all my bits before
I finally found one that would actually drill 4 holes
in the floor. Before I do any more concrete drilling
I definitely need some new bits.

Bill Gill

Thanks to all for the input! The top fastening option looks like it
will actually work vs going into the concrete.

Originally I didn't think the shelves in question would be tall enough
for that to be practical without a long awkward run of cable or
something, but there really isn't that much distance between the top
and the sill plate on these 72" shelves. Now that they're up, they
also hold together vertically better than I originally envisioned.

Best regards,
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

Herb Stein wrote:
wrote in message
...

"Todd H." wrote in message ...

I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

The painless solution for this problem is to buy some 1x6, cut it into 3
or 4 foot lengths, and lag-screw one end into the sill plate high on the
wall. You can then screw or bolt the shelving units to those. (Fasten the
shelf to the 1x6 at a couple of points a foot or two apart, and don't put
the upper lag screws in the last inch or two of the 1x6.) No muss, no
fuss, no need for a hammer drill, and easy to remove when you rearrange
the basement. It'll be plenty strong for kid or mild earthquake tip
resistance. Other alternative is to go straight up, and belay the shelves
off to 1x straps attached to the joists.


aem sends...

The painless solution is to teach the nieces and nephews not to screw with
your
stuff. I've got five grand-daughters and have never done anything to
"child-proof"
my house. Even 35 years ago with my own kids.

Apparently we are raising a generation of jerks with no respect for others
property.
--
Herb
herbstein.com

Kids have been killed by pulling bookshelves down, TVs off stands,
etc. You must not have kids or you would know that they do stupid
things and it is _not_ a matter of training. A toddler _will_ do things
like that.

Harry K

Todd H. wrote:
Thanks to all for the input! The top fastening option looks like it
will actually work vs going into the concrete.

Originally I didn't think the shelves in question would be tall enough
for that to be practical without a long awkward run of cable or
something, but there really isn't that much distance between the top
and the sill plate on these 72" shelves. Now that they're up, they
also hold together vertically better than I originally envisioned.

They'll hold together even better when loaded. BUT there's always the
unforseen.

Think earthquake.

"HeyBub" writes:

Todd H. wrote:
Thanks to all for the input! The top fastening option looks like it
will actually work vs going into the concrete.

Originally I didn't think the shelves in question would be tall enough
for that to be practical without a long awkward run of cable or
something, but there really isn't that much distance between the top
and the sill plate on these 72" shelves. Now that they're up, they
also hold together vertically better than I originally envisioned.

They'll hold together even better when loaded. BUT there's always the
unforseen.

Think earthquake.

Statistically unlikely in Chicagoland, but you can never be too sure!

If I can find a friend with a hammer drill to borrow, it'd be fun to
put in real anchors. Otherwise, some cable to the sill plate will be
the way I think.

Thanks again to all who responded--very helpful!

Best Regards,
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

Todd H. wrote:
"HeyBub" writes:

Todd H. wrote:
Thanks to all for the input! The top fastening option looks like it
will actually work vs going into the concrete.

Originally I didn't think the shelves in question would be tall
enough for that to be practical without a long awkward run of cable
or something, but there really isn't that much distance between the
top and the sill plate on these 72" shelves. Now that they're up,
they also hold together vertically better than I originally
envisioned.

They'll hold together even better when loaded. BUT there's always the
unforseen.

Think earthquake.

Statistically unlikely in Chicagoland, but you can never be too sure!

Okay, I'll play. Think nuclear explosion.

"Harry K" wrote in message
oups.com...

Herb Stein wrote:
wrote in message
...

"Todd H." wrote in message
...

I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

I assume a hammer drill is the tool of choice for this task?

The painless solution for this problem is to buy some 1x6, cut it into
3
or 4 foot lengths, and lag-screw one end into the sill plate high on
the
wall. You can then screw or bolt the shelving units to those. (Fasten
the
shelf to the 1x6 at a couple of points a foot or two apart, and don't
put
the upper lag screws in the last inch or two of the 1x6.) No muss, no
fuss, no need for a hammer drill, and easy to remove when you rearrange
the basement. It'll be plenty strong for kid or mild earthquake tip
resistance. Other alternative is to go straight up, and belay the
shelves
off to 1x straps attached to the joists.


aem sends...

The painless solution is to teach the nieces and nephews not to screw
with
your
stuff. I've got five grand-daughters and have never done anything to
"child-proof"
my house. Even 35 years ago with my own kids.

Apparently we are raising a generation of jerks with no respect for
others
property.
--
Herb
herbstein.com

Kids have been killed by pulling bookshelves down, TVs off stands,
etc. You must not have kids or you would know that they do stupid
things and it is _not_ a matter of training. A toddler _will_ do things
like that.

Harry K

OK, I overreacted to the original post. It was late when I wrote that.
I would probably attach it to the wall any way for my own benefit
when I load the shelves up with my valuable collectibles (wife refers
to it as junk).

Of course I have kids. Where do you think the grandkids came from?

I just went off about the safety issue. We never have 0% risk and a
person, as a parent or for themselves, needs to whatever is
appropriate and cost effective to reduce risk

This is not the forum for my rant, so I'll take it elsewhere and confine
myself here to OT posts.

My most humble apologies to the group.
--
Herb

"Todd H." wrote in message ...

I'd like to drill into poured concrete basement walls to set some
modest anchors to secure the tops of some freestanding shelving units
against tipping on top of small curious nephews and nieces who might
decide to climb on em.

Anything I should know/avoid? I guess my primary concern would be
opening a water infiltration path, but I'd have to think there are
tons of anchors drilled in other walls behind the finished portion of
the basement?

Go to the local rental place and get a hammer drill & bit. You won't be
going nearly deep enough to cause problems with anything. I'd guess that,
at most, you'd be drilling 2" into the concrete.

As someone else said, TapCon screws are the best, but you must use the
proper size drill bit.

Perhaps you can drill into poured concrete with a regular drill and a
masonry bit, but you'll spend hours doing it. With a hammer drill it's only
minutes. A dedicated hammer drill too, not the "all-in-one" regular
drill/hammer drill/screwdriver things. The kind you find at the rental
stores are good-sized beasts but get the job done quickly.

In article ,
"Bob M." wrote:

A dedicated hammer drill too, not the "all-in-one" regular
drill/hammer drill/screwdriver things. The kind you find at the rental
stores are good-sized beasts but get the job done quickly.

You said it!

My "main" drill is a 12VDC DeWalt drill/hammerdrill. It is what I usually use
for drilling masonry - just a couple of screws here and there. It does a
pretty good job with a FULL CHARGE.

For bigger drilling jobs, I get out a heavy extension cord the Hilti. The
difference is amazing. The Hilti is probably 3-4-times faster - and easier.
--

JR

No project too small
All projects too big

Jim Redelfs wrote:
In article ,
"Bob M." wrote:

A dedicated hammer drill too, not the "all-in-one" regular
drill/hammer drill/screwdriver things. The kind you find at the rental
stores are good-sized beasts but get the job done quickly.

You said it!

My "main" drill is a 12VDC DeWalt drill/hammerdrill. It is what I usually use
for drilling masonry - just a couple of screws here and there. It does a
pretty good job with a FULL CHARGE.

For bigger drilling jobs, I get out a heavy extension cord the Hilti. The
difference is amazing. The Hilti is probably 3-4-times faster - and easier.
--

JR

No project too small
All projects too big

My experience with the usual home owner hammer drills (mine is a
quality one) is that they are pretty much useless if you hit a good
sized piece of agregate. At best it is a slow operation and best done
with a graduated set of masonry drills, start small and work up to the
size you need. I don't even bother any more, one hole to do and it is
off to the rental place.

Harry K

"HeyBub" writes:

Todd H. wrote:
"HeyBub" writes:

Todd H. wrote:
Thanks to all for the input! The top fastening option looks like it
will actually work vs going into the concrete.

Originally I didn't think the shelves in question would be tall
enough for that to be practical without a long awkward run of cable
or something, but there really isn't that much distance between the
top and the sill plate on these 72" shelves. Now that they're up,
they also hold together vertically better than I originally
envisioned.

They'll hold together even better when loaded. BUT there's always the
unforseen.

Think earthquake.

Statistically unlikely in Chicagoland, but you can never be too sure!

Okay, I'll play. Think nuclear explosion.

There ya go!

--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 19:31:52 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Todd H. wrote:
"HeyBub" writes:

Todd H. wrote:
Thanks to all for the input! The top fastening option looks like it
will actually work vs going into the concrete.

Originally I didn't think the shelves in question would be tall
enough for that to be practical without a long awkward run of cable
or something, but there really isn't that much distance between the
top and the sill plate on these 72" shelves. Now that they're up,
they also hold together vertically better than I originally
envisioned.

They'll hold together even better when loaded. BUT there's always the
unforseen.

Think earthquake.

Statistically unlikely in Chicagoland, but you can never be too sure!

Okay, I'll play. Think nuclear explosion.

I can just see the commercials after the nuclear explosiion. "We're
in the basement of Todd H. Tell us, Todd, did our Miracle Anchors
hold your shelves in place during the recent unpleasantness?" "Yes
indeed, Joe. I"d recommend Miracle Anchors to everyone with a
basement."

mm writes:

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 19:31:52 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Todd H. wrote:
"HeyBub" writes:

Todd H. wrote:
Thanks to all for the input! The top fastening option looks like it
will actually work vs going into the concrete.

Originally I didn't think the shelves in question would be tall
enough for that to be practical without a long awkward run of cable
or something, but there really isn't that much distance between the
top and the sill plate on these 72" shelves. Now that they're up,
they also hold together vertically better than I originally
envisioned.

They'll hold together even better when loaded. BUT there's always the
unforseen.

Think earthquake.

Statistically unlikely in Chicagoland, but you can never be too sure!

Okay, I'll play. Think nuclear explosion.

I can just see the commercials after the nuclear explosiion. "We're
in the basement of Todd H. Tell us, Todd, did our Miracle Anchors
hold your shelves in place during the recent unpleasantness?" "Yes
indeed, Joe. I"d recommend Miracle Anchors to everyone with a
basement."

"And may I just say, your nose is a lovely shade of green."

--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

replying to Herb Stein, Sterb Hein wrote:
The painless solution is to teach the nieces and nephews not to screw with
your stuff. I've got five grand-daughters and have never done anything to
"child-proof" my house. Even 35 years ago with my own kids.
Apparently we are raising a generation of jerks with no respect for others
property. -- Herb herbstein.com

Herb, You are a bitch



--
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