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[email protected] November 13th 06 06:08 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 
I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.


longshot November 13th 06 06:37 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 

wrote in message
ups.com...
I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.



you think that woosie roof can withstand a 30" snowfall?



[email protected] November 13th 06 07:00 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 
installed at 24OC with 16OC crosses it is supposed to hold 54psf is my
understanding. Plus one of the advantages is the snow slides off easy.
Like I say, I'm new to metal roofs, but everyone around here raves
about them.

On Nov 13, 1:37 pm, "longshot" wrote:
wrote in oglegroups.com...

I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.you think that woosie roof can withstand a 30" snowfall?



SteveF November 13th 06 07:10 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 

wrote in message
ups.com...
I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.


I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing sheds and have never
used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas from has
1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and the metal
sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof substantially
stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support structure on
mine.

Steve.




[email protected] November 13th 06 07:19 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 
yep that is what I'm thinking too. Did you notice how anyone does a
drip edge though? (is there one?)

On Nov 13, 2:10 pm, "SteveF" wrote:
wrote in oglegroups.com...

I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing sheds and have never

used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas from has
1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and the metal
sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof substantially
stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support structure on
mine.

Steve.



Chas Hurst November 13th 06 08:21 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 
I have an attached shed with a metal roof using rafters 16"oc and 1x3
purlins 12"oc. The roof is screwed down every other purlin. Spacing the
purlin farther apart (as in 24"oc) makes installing the roof difficult as
stepping on the roof inbetween the purlins will damage it. I used no drip
edge, just extended the roof an inch or so past the fascia.
Did you mean 3/12 pitch, you have 3/21 typed?

wrote in message
oups.com...
yep that is what I'm thinking too. Did you notice how anyone does a
drip edge though? (is there one?)

On Nov 13, 2:10 pm, "SteveF" wrote:
wrote in
oglegroups.com...

I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing sheds
and have never

used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas from
has
1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and the
metal
sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof
substantially
stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support structure on
mine.

Steve.





[email protected] November 13th 06 08:56 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 
oops, yes I mean 3/12. I'm thinking of 24oc on the rafters and 16oc on
the purlins.

So with no drip edge and the edge of the roof an inch over, you don't
have any issues with water getting on the fascia?

On Nov 13, 3:21 pm, "Chas Hurst" wrote:
I have an attached shed with a metal roof using rafters 16"oc and 1x3
purlins 12"oc. The roof is screwed down every other purlin. Spacing the
purlin farther apart (as in 24"oc) makes installing the roof difficult as
stepping on the roof inbetween the purlins will damage it. I used no drip
edge, just extended the roof an inch or so past the fascia.
Did you mean 3/12 pitch, you have 3/21 typed?

wrote in ooglegroups.com...

yep that is what I'm thinking too. Did you notice how anyone does a
drip edge though? (is there one?)


On Nov 13, 2:10 pm, "SteveF" wrote:
wrote in
oglegroups.com...


I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing sheds
and have never
used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas from
has
1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and the
metal
sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof
substantially
stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support structure on
mine.


Steve.



[email protected] November 13th 06 08:58 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 



oops, yes I mean 3/12. I'm thinking of 24oc on the rafters and 16oc on
the purlins.

So with no drip edge and the edge of the roof an inch over, you don't
have any issues with water getting on the fascia?

On Nov 13, 3:21 pm, "Chas Hurst" wrote:

I have an attached shed with a metal roof using rafters 16"oc and 1x3
purlins 12"oc. The roof is screwed down every other purlin. Spacing the
purlin farther apart (as in 24"oc) makes installing the roof difficult as
stepping on the roof inbetween the purlins will damage it. I used no drip
edge, just extended the roof an inch or so past the fascia.
Did you mean 3/12 pitch, you have 3/21 typed?


wrote in ooglegroups.com...


yep that is what I'm thinking too. Did you notice how anyone does a
drip edge though? (is there one?)


On Nov 13, 2:10 pm, "SteveF" wrote:
wrote in
oglegroups.com...


I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing sheds
and have never
used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas from
has
1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and the
metal
sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof
substantially
stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support structure on
mine.


Steve.



Chas Hurst November 13th 06 10:14 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 

wrote in message
oups.com...



oops, yes I mean 3/12. I'm thinking of 24oc on the rafters and 16oc on
the purlins.

So with no drip edge and the edge of the roof an inch over, you don't
have any issues with water getting on the fascia?


No issues, water might get blown onto the fascia, but it's clad in color
co-ordinated aluminum.
16"oc for the purlins would be better than 24". You would still need to
carefull where you stand when installing the roof to avoid buckling it.



On Nov 13, 3:21 pm, "Chas Hurst" wrote:

I have an attached shed with a metal roof using rafters 16"oc and 1x3
purlins 12"oc. The roof is screwed down every other purlin. Spacing the
purlin farther apart (as in 24"oc) makes installing the roof difficult
as
stepping on the roof inbetween the purlins will damage it. I used no
drip
edge, just extended the roof an inch or so past the fascia.
Did you mean 3/12 pitch, you have 3/21 typed?


wrote in
ooglegroups.com...


yep that is what I'm thinking too. Did you notice how anyone does a
drip edge though? (is there one?)


On Nov 13, 2:10 pm, "SteveF" wrote:
wrote in
oglegroups.com...


I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing.
The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I
won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters,
but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the
whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just
like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use
a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is
my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff
(36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I
live
in Northeast.I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing
sheds
and have never
used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas
from
has
1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and
the
metal
sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof
substantially
stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support
structure on
mine.


Steve.





Jonny November 14th 06 12:33 AM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 
wrote in message
ups.com...
I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.


Depends which metal roof form you mean, could be flat or corrugated. The
parallel horizontal sides are no problem either type (if the corrugated type
has rafter tie-ins at the terminating walls parallel with the corrugations),
just the terminated inclined sides with corrugated type.

The corrugated type, if you want to keep out small birds etc., should have
some coverage to seal out all. I used blocking on the 2X4 rafter
terminations at each inclined wall end. Then, black mastic (roof repair
cement) along the corrugations paralle with the wall. Then backfilled
inside with spray insulation foam. Made it airtight as outbuilding served
as a wellhouse. One 40W light bulb keeps it warm enough in winter (central
TX).

I know you meant 3 on 12, so didn't ask. I would go with steeper roof.
--
Jonny



[email protected] November 21st 06 02:20 PM

sloped metal roof for a woodshed
 

Jonny wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.


Depends which metal roof form you mean, could be flat or corrugated. The
parallel horizontal sides are no problem either type (if the corrugated type
has rafter tie-ins at the terminating walls parallel with the corrugations),
just the terminated inclined sides with corrugated type.

The corrugated type, if you want to keep out small birds etc., should have
some coverage to seal out all. I used blocking on the 2X4 rafter
terminations at each inclined wall end. Then, black mastic (roof repair
cement) along the corrugations paralle with the wall. Then backfilled
inside with spray insulation foam. Made it airtight as outbuilding served
as a wellhouse. One 40W light bulb keeps it warm enough in winter (central
TX).

I know you meant 3 on 12, so didn't ask. I would go with steeper roof.
--
Jonny


Well, I'm not concerned with bird, etc. I am more concerned with water
coming in on the high side of the slant roof. Mostly with the raises
in teh steel roofing. I am not using the wavy barn roofing, but the
colored steel roofing that has ridges every 8 or 12". I figure I will
use a drip edge on the fascia, but don't want water running down the
raised ridges.



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