Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

Hi all!

I have a quick question. We have a forced hot water system (from
googling, it looks like a two pipe system - hot and return pipes, in four
zones). One of the bedrooms upstairs (which is a single zone for all rooms)
doesn't heat well. The baseboard will get warm-ish, but the room itself is
noticeably cooler than the other three.

Here are my questions: 1) does this sound like an air block, and thus
requires that I bleed the pipe in that room?

2) if so, can you give me a quick primer on how to bleed a pipe? From
googling, I think I should be looking for some kind of fitting to unscrew,
let the air and some water out, and re-tighten, is that right?

2.5) Do the things I need to look for to loosen and let the air out, have
any kind of uniform appearance? I can't seem to see anything like what the
web describes. Maybe I need to remove the housing around the baseboard
heater to find it?

3) Should I be worried about scalding myself?

Thanks, guys. Any info you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Donna

PS: although I can't visually locate an expansion tank, I'm assuming we
must have one, as we recently had a water holding tank installed, and the
furnace is newish (eight-ten years) has been recently serviced and
inspected.

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

The bleeders are at the boiler, each zone "should" have one. It may have a
cap covering it, but it looks like a fitting that you attach a garden hose
to


"Donna" wrote in message
news:LaZ3h.6036$MO6.4482@trndny06...
Hi all!

I have a quick question. We have a forced hot water system (from
googling, it looks like a two pipe system - hot and return pipes, in four
zones). One of the bedrooms upstairs (which is a single zone for all
rooms) doesn't heat well. The baseboard will get warm-ish, but the room
itself is noticeably cooler than the other three.

Here are my questions: 1) does this sound like an air block, and thus
requires that I bleed the pipe in that room?

2) if so, can you give me a quick primer on how to bleed a pipe? From
googling, I think I should be looking for some kind of fitting to unscrew,
let the air and some water out, and re-tighten, is that right?

2.5) Do the things I need to look for to loosen and let the air out, have
any kind of uniform appearance? I can't seem to see anything like what
the web describes. Maybe I need to remove the housing around the
baseboard heater to find it?

3) Should I be worried about scalding myself?

Thanks, guys. Any info you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Donna

PS: although I can't visually locate an expansion tank, I'm assuming we
must have one, as we recently had a water holding tank installed, and the
furnace is newish (eight-ten years) has been recently serviced and
inspected.

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

You might have a bleader on the baseboard try thet first if you have
one, bleading at the highest point is best. Is enough water in the
boiler. To bleed just open the blead valve when boiler is running till
water comes out steady.

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
The bleeders are at the boiler, each zone "should" have one. It may have a
cap covering it, but it looks like a fitting that you attach a garden hose
to


Aha. I'll go check. I couldn't find a thing on any of the upstairs pipes,
so I'll check the boiler.

Follow up question: should I bleed all of my zones on any kind of schedule,
or just when I am having a problem?

Donna

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

"Donna" wrote in message
news:d_%3h.3293$C57.1329@trndny05...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
The bleeders are at the boiler, each zone "should" have one. It may have
a cap covering it, but it looks like a fitting that you attach a garden
hose to


Aha. I'll go check. I couldn't find a thing on any of the upstairs
pipes, so I'll check the boiler.

Follow up question: should I bleed all of my zones on any kind of
schedule, or just when I am having a problem?

Donna

Note that the bleeder valve on the baseboard will either have a slotted
screw head that can be turned by a screwdriver OR it will have a square rod
that requires a special key to turn. You shoulf be able to get this key at
any hardware or plumbing supply store for about 50¢. Just ask for a
radiator valve key.
--
Peace,
BobJ

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

"Marilyn & Bob" wrote in message
news:HH24h.4440$3r6.1512@trndny09...
"Donna" wrote in message
news:d_%3h.3293$C57.1329@trndny05...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
The bleeders are at the boiler, each zone "should" have one. It may have
a cap covering it, but it looks like a fitting that you attach a garden
hose to


Aha. I'll go check. I couldn't find a thing on any of the upstairs
pipes, so I'll check the boiler.

Follow up question: should I bleed all of my zones on any kind of
schedule, or just when I am having a problem?

Donna

Note that the bleeder valve on the baseboard will either have a slotted
screw head that can be turned by a screwdriver OR it will have a square
rod that requires a special key to turn. You shoulf be able to get this
key at any hardware or plumbing supply store for about 50¢. Just ask for
a radiator valve key.

Thanks, everyone. I went down and looked at the oil burner/water heater
thing, and lo and behold, there were five hose connectors, neatly labeled by
zone (well, except the one at floor level - not sure what that goes to.).
Anyway, I turned on the second floor heat, and drained a couple of buckets
of water out of the corresponding hose connector. Was that enough water,
do you think? I didn't really notice anychange in pressure as I was
draining the water. Oddly, the water was tea-colored, I'm assuming from the
copper pipes. I suppose that's normal?

Donna

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

"Donna" wrote in message
news:LaZ3h.6036$MO6.4482@trndny06...
Hi all!

I have a quick question. We have a forced hot water system (from
googling, it looks like a two pipe system - hot and return pipes, in four
zones). One of the bedrooms upstairs (which is a single zone for all
rooms) doesn't heat well. The baseboard will get warm-ish, but the room
itself is noticeably cooler than the other three.

Here are my questions: 1) does this sound like an air block, and thus
requires that I bleed the pipe in that room?

2) if so, can you give me a quick primer on how to bleed a pipe? From
googling, I think I should be looking for some kind of fitting to unscrew,
let the air and some water out, and re-tighten, is that right?

Might be air bubbles trapped in the system. You can hear these though,
especially if the system has a lot of air in it. Any time the boiler is on
you'll hear gurgling in the baseboard heater pipes if you have bubbles
trapped inside.

The bleeder screw on my system is a small thing, about 2x the size of a
pencil eraser, and on one end of most of the baseboard heaters, maybe all of
them.

Are the pumps that push the water thru the pipes working? Again, when one
zone is calling for heat, you can hear them run if you're standing nearby.

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

Donna posted for all of us...

Hi all!

I have a quick question.
Not that quick
We have a forced hot water system (from
googling, it looks like a two pipe system - hot and return pipes, in four
zones). One of the bedrooms upstairs (which is a single zone for all rooms)
doesn't heat well. The baseboard will get warm-ish, but the room itself is
noticeably cooler than the other three.

Here are my questions: 1) does this sound like an air block, and thus
requires that I bleed the pipe in that room?

2) if so, can you give me a quick primer on how to bleed a pipe? From
googling, I think I should be looking for some kind of fitting to unscrew,
let the air and some water out, and re-tighten, is that right?

2.5) Do the things I need to look for to loosen and let the air out, have
any kind of uniform appearance? I can't seem to see anything like what the
web describes. Maybe I need to remove the housing around the baseboard
heater to find it?

3) Should I be worried about scalding myself?

Thanks, guys. Any info you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Donna

PS: although I can't visually locate an expansion tank, I'm assuming we
must have one, as we recently had a water holding tank installed, and the
furnace is newish (eight-ten years) has been recently serviced and
inspected.



Asked and answered MANY times - do your own research.
--
Tekkie Don't bother to thank me, I do this as a public service.

Question about bleeding forced hot water pipes
 

Donna wrote:
"Marilyn & Bob" wrote in message
news:HH24h.4440$3r6.1512@trndny09...
"Donna" wrote in message
news:d_%3h.3293$C57.1329@trndny05...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
The bleeders are at the boiler, each zone "should" have one. It may have
a cap covering it, but it looks like a fitting that you attach a garden
hose to


Aha. I'll go check. I couldn't find a thing on any of the upstairs
pipes, so I'll check the boiler.

Follow up question: should I bleed all of my zones on any kind of
schedule, or just when I am having a problem?

Donna

Note that the bleeder valve on the baseboard will either have a slotted
screw head that can be turned by a screwdriver OR it will have a square
rod that requires a special key to turn. You shoulf be able to get this
key at any hardware or plumbing supply store for about 50¢. Just ask for
a radiator valve key.

Thanks, everyone. I went down and looked at the oil burner/water heater
thing, and lo and behold, there were five hose connectors, neatly labeled by
zone (well, except the one at floor level - not sure what that goes to.).
Anyway, I turned on the second floor heat, and drained a couple of buckets
of water out of the corresponding hose connector. Was that enough water,
do you think? I didn't really notice anychange in pressure as I was
draining the water. Oddly, the water was tea-colored, I'm assuming from the
copper pipes. I suppose that's normal?

Donna

If one radiator is not heating up as much as the others, most likely it
has air trapped in it. At least, that's the first thing to try. This
air can be removed using a bleeder valve, which each radiator should
have if they were installed correctly. The bleeder valve would be a
little gizmo sticking out at one end or the other of the radiator. To
let the air out you loosen it, using either a screwdriver or a special
bleeder valve key, and if there is air to be let out you will hear
hissing for a while, then water will come out. Not much water and no
need to worry about getting scalded. Usually there is a little hole on
the side of the bleeder valve where a very thin stream of water comes
out when the air is all gone. Then just tighten the bleeder valve back
up and hopefully that radiator will work fine now.

If the problem is air in the radiator, draining buckets of water out of
a zone drain won't help at all, but probably won't hurt anything either
as the boiler will just make that water up. (It probably has a valve
that lets more water in to the system if the pressure gets too low,
that would be a kind of bell-shaped thing on a pipe that goes into the
boiler. At any rate, I wouldn't worry about it unless other problems
turn up.) Also, no need to worry about the tea-colored water.