Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP

Jay Pique wrote:

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement,
with a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on
retrofit recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and
would like to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to
pay for an efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over
say 5 years. Thanks.

Gas or electric? Size of the family? Here in Douglas County, WA., where
electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour, I would do a straight
replacement in my household with the most efficient 60 gallon electric
heater I could find.
--
Dave
www.davebbq.com

"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:h7S_g.49$vT7.25
@newsfe03.lga:

Jay Pique wrote:

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement,
with a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on
retrofit recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and
would like to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to
pay for an efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over
say 5 years. Thanks.

Gas or electric? Size of the family? Here in Douglas County, WA., where
electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour, I would do a straight
replacement in my household with the most efficient 60 gallon electric
heater I could find.


electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,


Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

Al Bundy wrote:

"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:h7S_g.49$vT7.25

electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,

Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

1 point 2 cents. Douglas County has the cheapest electrical rates in the
nation. Only a fool uses natural gas for appliances around here.

--
Dave
www.davebbq.com

"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:Mz1%g.1454$Dg6.502
@newsfe07.lga:

Al Bundy wrote:

"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:h7S_g.49$vT7.25

electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,

Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

1 point 2 cents. Douglas County has the cheapest electrical rates in the
nation. Only a fool uses natural gas for appliances around here.



That's about as close to free as it can get. Just curious Dave, what is the
primary reason?

Al Bundy wrote:
"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:Mz1%g.1454$Dg6.502
@newsfe07.lga:

Al Bundy wrote:

"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:h7S_g.49$vT7.25

electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,

Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

1 point 2 cents. Douglas County has the cheapest electrical rates in
the nation. Only a fool uses natural gas for appliances around here.



That's about as close to free as it can get. Just curious Dave, what
is the primary reason?

Grand Coulee dam?

"Dave Bugg" wrote in message
...
Al Bundy wrote:

"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:h7S_g.49$vT7.25

electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,

Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

1 point 2 cents. Douglas County has the cheapest electrical rates in the
nation. Only a fool uses natural gas for appliances around here.

--
Dave
www.davebbq.com





OK, where is Douglas County???? In Houston after deregulation we enjoy
about 14 cents per kilowatt hour if you switch often to the cheaper
provider. 10 years ago I averaged 5 cents per kilowatt hour.

Dave Bugg wrote:
Al Bundy wrote:

"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:h7S_g.49$vT7.25

electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,

Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

1 point 2 cents. Douglas County has the cheapest electrical rates in the
nation. Only a fool uses natural gas for appliances around here.


I suggest you check at:
http://www.douglaselectric.com/billestimator.php

and tell us what the cost per kWh is.

George E. Cawthon wrote:

Dave Bugg wrote:

1 point 2 cents. Douglas County has the cheapest electrical rates in
the nation. Only a fool uses natural gas for appliances around here.

I suggest you check at:
http://www.douglaselectric.com/billestimator.php

and tell us what the cost per kWh is.

Huh? Douglas Electric has nothing to do with Douglas County, WA. It ain't
our electricity provider.

--
Dave
www.davebbq.com

Al Bundy wrote:
"Dave Bugg" wrote in news:h7S_g.49$vT7.25
@newsfe03.lga:

Jay Pique wrote:

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement,
with a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on
retrofit recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and
would like to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to
pay for an efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over
say 5 years. Thanks.
Gas or electric? Size of the family? Here in Douglas County, WA., where
electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour, I would do a straight
replacement in my household with the most efficient 60 gallon electric
heater I could find.


electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,


Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

Huh? Nobody gets electric power for 0.12 cents
per kWh, nobody. I don't think anybody in WA gets
domestic electric power for 1.2 cents per kWh.
There may be some applications, e.g., irrigation
pumping, that get a rate that low, but it would be
by oversight. Any rate that is less that 4 cents
per kWh is considered very very low.

I suppose there is always a first......a wooden hot water heater. Wonder
what type of wood?? IPE?? Problem wood (pun) be is the heat and the water. I
think 20-30 coats of poly might work. Stain??
Gas would not be my first choice.
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP

I was, money in hand, ready to go tank-less, but am thinking better of
it. I think the savings projected depend on an ideal situation. I lack
that. If you have a situation where the runs to the taps or appliances
that use the hot water are short, it might be a savings. If you are
gone and the house is empty more than occupied, you might see some
savings. The consensus here seems to be that it would be worn out
before the pay off ever came and in the meantime you would have a noisy
expensive unit that few people know how to repair, and no reserve hot
water during a power outage.
My plan now is to put in recirculation loops on the units I have and
get instant hot water at the taps. That plan might use a tad more
energy to heat the water, but should eliminate a lot of wasted water,
which in my case has to be pumped.

"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
ups.com...

I was, money in hand, ready to go tank-less, but am thinking better of
it. I think the savings projected depend on an ideal situation. I lack
that. If you have a situation where the runs to the taps or appliances
that use the hot water are short, it might be a savings. If you are
gone and the house is empty more than occupied, you might see some
savings. The consensus here seems to be that it would be worn out
before the pay off ever came and in the meantime you would have a noisy
expensive unit that few people know how to repair, and no reserve hot
water during a power outage.
My plan now is to put in recirculation loops on the units I have and
get instant hot water at the taps. That plan might use a tad more
energy to heat the water, but should eliminate a lot of wasted water,
which in my case has to be pumped.

My plan when I put in the recirculation pump is to have a push button
near each water faucet. Push the button, the pump turns on for long enough
to get the hot water to all faucets on the loop. This will have no
additional
loss when no water is being used.

Bob

Recirc wastes a lot of energy, unless the runs are thoroughly insulated.
It's like running a little heat loop all the time!
Efficiency wise, you're better off wasting the startup water each time.
Wilson
"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..

"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
ups.com...

I was, money in hand, ready to go tank-less, but am thinking better of
it. I think the savings projected depend on an ideal situation. I lack
that. If you have a situation where the runs to the taps or appliances
that use the hot water are short, it might be a savings. If you are
gone and the house is empty more than occupied, you might see some
savings. The consensus here seems to be that it would be worn out
before the pay off ever came and in the meantime you would have a noisy
expensive unit that few people know how to repair, and no reserve hot
water during a power outage.
My plan now is to put in recirculation loops on the units I have and
get instant hot water at the taps. That plan might use a tad more
energy to heat the water, but should eliminate a lot of wasted water,
which in my case has to be pumped.

My plan when I put in the recirculation pump is to have a push button
near each water faucet. Push the button, the pump turns on for long enough
to get the hot water to all faucets on the loop. This will have no
additional
loss when no water is being used.

Bob

Wilson wrote:
Recirc wastes a lot of energy, unless the runs are thoroughly insulated.
It's like running a little heat loop all the time!
Efficiency wise, you're better off wasting the startup water each time.
Wilson

The only time I've ever seen circulated hot water is in mid-rises where
you have really long runs of pipe -- say 10 floors -- that would never
get fully hot if you didn't recirculate.

"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..

"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
ups.com...

I was, money in hand, ready to go tank-less, but am thinking better of
it. I think the savings projected depend on an ideal situation. I lack
that. If you have a situation where the runs to the taps or appliances
that use the hot water are short, it might be a savings. If you are
gone and the house is empty more than occupied, you might see some
savings. The consensus here seems to be that it would be worn out
before the pay off ever came and in the meantime you would have a noisy
expensive unit that few people know how to repair, and no reserve hot
water during a power outage.
My plan now is to put in recirculation loops on the units I have and
get instant hot water at the taps. That plan might use a tad more
energy to heat the water, but should eliminate a lot of wasted water,
which in my case has to be pumped.

My plan when I put in the recirculation pump is to have a push button
near each water faucet. Push the button, the pump turns on for long enough
to get the hot water to all faucets on the loop. This will have no
additional
loss when no water is being used.

Bob

Did you actually TRY to read what I wrote?

Bob

"Wilson" wrote in message
news
Recirc wastes a lot of energy, unless the runs are thoroughly insulated.
It's like running a little heat loop all the time!
Efficiency wise, you're better off wasting the startup water each time.
Wilson
"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..

"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
ups.com...

I was, money in hand, ready to go tank-less, but am thinking better of
it. I think the savings projected depend on an ideal situation. I lack
that. If you have a situation where the runs to the taps or appliances
that use the hot water are short, it might be a savings. If you are
gone and the house is empty more than occupied, you might see some
savings. The consensus here seems to be that it would be worn out
before the pay off ever came and in the meantime you would have a noisy
expensive unit that few people know how to repair, and no reserve hot
water during a power outage.
My plan now is to put in recirculation loops on the units I have and
get instant hot water at the taps. That plan might use a tad more
energy to heat the water, but should eliminate a lot of wasted water,
which in my case has to be pumped.

My plan when I put in the recirculation pump is to have a push button
near each water faucet. Push the button, the pump turns on for long
enough
to get the hot water to all faucets on the loop. This will have no
additional
loss when no water is being used.

Bob

Bob F wrote:

My plan when I put in the recirculation pump is to have a push button
near each water faucet. Push the button, the pump turns on for long enough
to get the hot water to all faucets on the loop...

A $15 motion detector might be more convenient.

Nick

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP


Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient. Just buy a
good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your needs
Now with gas the different heaters are too numerous to mention, but if you
are looking for a 5 year payback, it ain't gonna happen! If it were me I
would just go with a good quality 40 or 50 gallon natural draft heater and
be done with it. It may not be the most efficient, but they are the most
trust worthy as repairs go. Any thing in a water heater that requires
electricity to run will most likely need repairs and there goes you payback!
Plus the price for efficiency goes up fast killing any idea of a quick
payback.
As far as I am concerned, you ether a pay a premium for the equipment, or
pay the utility, cost is about the same in the long run!
Greg

http://www.askthebuilder.com/451_Tan...ng_Facts.shtml

talks about the overhyped tankless and their problems payback exceeds
the life of the tank..

" wrote:

http://www.askthebuilder.com/451_Tan...ng_Facts.shtml

talks about the overhyped tankless and their problems payback exceeds
the life of the tank..

Did you see the date of a reply puts that pre-03. Back in 03 I would go with tankless
because they were reletively new but today's units have a lot more going for them.
Research the latest, I did and we are using a propane tankless from Bosch.

"Greg O" wrote in message

Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient. Just buy a
good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your needs

Electric has losses also - depending on the insulation level of the tank.
100%
efficient? Only if you are heating the area with electric heat all the time.

Bob

Bob F wrote:
"Greg O" wrote in message
Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient. Just buy a
good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your needs

Electric has losses also - depending on the insulation level of the tank.
100%
efficient? Only if you are heating the area with electric heat all the time.

Bob


It is 100 percent because the efficiency rating is
based on the conversion of the heat potential of
the fuel to the heat potential of the water. Loss
of heat because of poor insulation of the tank
etc. is not part of the "efficiency" rating. And
it has to be that way because no one can predict
or account for all the possible combinations of
installation including outside (no protection),
cold garage, small closet, etc. If efficiency did
include other factors, gas water heaters would
have a terrible efficiency (just think of that
hole through the center of tank and the air heated
by the hot water rising through the flue pipe to
the outdoors.

Somebody wrote:

Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient.

Nothing is 100% efficient.

Electric still may be a good choice, IF you do the following:

1) Must have an off peak heating rate to make it economically feasible.

2) Off peak heating means you need a large tank, at least 80-100
gallons for a family of 4.

Remember, you will be heating water at 2:00AM for a hot shower at
6:00PM that night.

My father built a house and followed the above guidelines.

We always had hot water during the 10 years I lived there, before
leaving home.

Lew

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...
Bob F wrote:
"Greg O" wrote in message
Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient. Just
buy a
good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your needs

Electric has losses also - depending on the insulation level of the
tank.
100%
efficient? Only if you are heating the area with electric heat all the
time.

Bob


It is 100 percent because the efficiency rating is
based on the conversion of the heat potential of
the fuel to the heat potential of the water. Loss
of heat because of poor insulation of the tank
etc. is not part of the "efficiency" rating. And
it has to be that way because no one can predict
or account for all the possible combinations of
installation including outside (no protection),
cold garage, small closet, etc. If efficiency did
include other factors, gas water heaters would
have a terrible efficiency (just think of that
hole through the center of tank and the air heated
by the hot water rising through the flue pipe to
the outdoors.


Who cares about "ratings"? The fact is that some water heaters
are better insulated, and will cost you less to operate. They
lesser insulated ones are less "efficient". 100%? I don't think so.
Sure, they convert 100% of the energy to heat in the water. But
then they lose the heat to the environment. IF you use a cheaper
source of heat to heat your house, or if you want to cool it, that
is going to cost you money.

Bob

Bob F wrote:
"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...
Bob F wrote:
"Greg O" wrote in message
Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient. Just
buy a
good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your needs
Electric has losses also - depending on the insulation level of the
tank.
100%
efficient? Only if you are heating the area with electric heat all the
time.
Bob


It is 100 percent because the efficiency rating is
based on the conversion of the heat potential of
the fuel to the heat potential of the water. Loss
of heat because of poor insulation of the tank
etc. is not part of the "efficiency" rating. And
it has to be that way because no one can predict
or account for all the possible combinations of
installation including outside (no protection),
cold garage, small closet, etc. If efficiency did
include other factors, gas water heaters would
have a terrible efficiency (just think of that
hole through the center of tank and the air heated
by the hot water rising through the flue pipe to
the outdoors.


Who cares about "ratings"? The fact is that some water heaters
are better insulated, and will cost you less to operate. They
lesser insulated ones are less "efficient". 100%? I don't think so.
Sure, they convert 100% of the energy to heat in the water. But
then they lose the heat to the environment. IF you use a cheaper
source of heat to heat your house, or if you want to cool it, that
is going to cost you money.

Bob


Whoa, I just reread that for the 3rd time.

"Greg O" wrote in message
...
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP


Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient.

It is 100% efficient in turning electricity into heat. It is not 100%
efficient in transferring that heat to the water nor is it 100% efficient in
turning fuel into heat. It just moves the point of inefficiency from a
local burner to a generating plant.

Just buy a good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your
needs
Now with gas the different heaters are too numerous to mention, but if you
are looking for a 5 year payback, it ain't gonna happen! If it were me I
would just go with a good quality 40 or 50 gallon natural draft heater and
be done with it. It may not be the most efficient, but they are the most
trust worthy as repairs go. Any thing in a water heater that requires
electricity to run will most likely need repairs and there goes you
payback! Plus the price for efficiency goes up fast killing any idea of a
quick payback.
As far as I am concerned, you ether a pay a premium for the equipment, or
pay the utility, cost is about the same in the long run!
Greg

On Sun, 22 Oct 2006 19:00:15 -0500, "Greg O"
wrote:

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
roups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP


Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient. Just buy a
good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your needs
Now with gas the different heaters are too numerous to mention, but if you
are looking for a 5 year payback, it ain't gonna happen! If it were me I
would just go with a good quality 40 or 50 gallon natural draft heater and
be done with it. It may not be the most efficient, but they are the most
trust worthy as repairs go. Any thing in a water heater that requires
electricity to run will most likely need repairs and there goes you payback!
Plus the price for efficiency goes up fast killing any idea of a quick
payback.
As far as I am concerned, you ether a pay a premium for the equipment, or
pay the utility, cost is about the same in the long run!
Greg


I don't know why folks quote that old saw: "electric is 100%
efficient". It's a meaningless statement.

Electric usage for resistance heating may well be 100% efficient at
the end user site but that doesn't take into account the large losses
at the power plant, the distribution system, house wiring losses,
etc.

These combined losses are among the reasons why electric resistance
heating of anything is generally more expensive than natural gas,
unless the electric source is hydro or subsidized.

Doug

Doug wrote:
On Sun, 22 Oct 2006 19:00:15 -0500, "Greg O"
wrote:

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP

Electric? It makes no difference as electric is 100% efficient. Just buy a
good quality, standard 40- 50 gallon, or whatever fits your needs
Now with gas the different heaters are too numerous to mention, but if you
are looking for a 5 year payback, it ain't gonna happen! If it were me I
would just go with a good quality 40 or 50 gallon natural draft heater and
be done with it. It may not be the most efficient, but they are the most
trust worthy as repairs go. Any thing in a water heater that requires
electricity to run will most likely need repairs and there goes you payback!
Plus the price for efficiency goes up fast killing any idea of a quick
payback.
As far as I am concerned, you ether a pay a premium for the equipment, or
pay the utility, cost is about the same in the long run!
Greg


I don't know why folks quote that old saw: "electric is 100%
efficient". It's a meaningless statement.

Electric usage for resistance heating may well be 100% efficient at
the end user site but that doesn't take into account the large losses
at the power plant, the distribution system, house wiring losses,
etc.

These combined losses are among the reasons why electric resistance
heating of anything is generally more expensive than natural gas,
unless the electric source is hydro or subsidized.

Doug

Your argument ignores the fact that efficiency in
this context means the efficiency of conversion
from one type of energy to another, in this case
electricity to heat. Losses at the power plant
are the result of a different conversion,
converting coal or gas to electricity.

If you want to add up all the losses and cost you
have to include the cost of mining the metal in
the heater among about 10,000 other things.

"Doug" wrote in message

I don't know why folks quote that old saw: "electric is 100%
efficient". It's a meaningless statement.

Except in the fact that 100% of the energy you pay for is used
to heat. As opposed to gas, for instance, where some of the heat
goes up the chimney.


Electric usage for resistance heating may well be 100% efficient at
the end user site but that doesn't take into account the large losses
at the power plant, the distribution system, house wiring losses,
etc.

OK - I'll give you the house wiring losses - not much there.


These combined losses are among the reasons why electric resistance
heating of anything is generally more expensive than natural gas,
unless the electric source is hydro or subsidized.

Doug

Jay Pique wrote:
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP

From - Sun

See:

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/h...view/index.htm

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Jay Pique wrote:
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP

Marathon.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP


You may want to check out:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-heater.html

Of course they're trying to sell their product, but it appears they offer
some decent advice. I too am thinking I'll be replacing soon so found this
website.
Cheers,
cc

HERE'S SOME PROS & CONS OF TANKLESS W/HEATERS:

http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tankless.htm

################################################## ##
James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote:
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP


You may want to check out:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-heater.html

Of course they're trying to sell their product, but it appears they offer
some decent advice. I too am thinking I'll be replacing soon so found this
website.
Cheers,
cc

here in buffalo ny: natural gas is cheaper fuel. we had 9 days no
electric after the freak october 13, 2006 22-inch wet snowstorm that
knocked 1/3 of a million people off the electrical power grid with
downed branches.
we had no interruption in hot water. [i once wished i bought the ebay
showerhead with a generator light in it.]
note here a 40,000 BTUH with standing pilot light gas water heater has
around a 61 gallon delivery in the first hour. note gas is usually
twice the recovery rate with gas at 40 gallons per hour and electric at
20 gallons per hour on the lower priced conventional household units.
and winter water to shower water temp is more than a 90 degree rise
requirement in this climate.
see various manufacturers websites but GRAINGER has excellent
comparison specifications information on their website:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml
also see extensive choosing and add-ons and troubleshooting of your
next water heater:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...eshooting.html

Jay Pique wrote:
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP

note that in a cold weather area the heater is generally indoors, so
the standby losses help heat the home, thus they really arent lost
except in the summer

wrote in message
ups.com...
note that in a cold weather area the heater is generally indoors, so
the standby losses help heat the home, thus they really arent lost
except in the summer


But if your gas furnace or heat pump produce the same heat for less
$, you will pay more anyway. Or, heaven forbid, if you try to cool
your house.

Bob

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement,
with a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on
retrofit recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and
would like to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to
pay for an efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over
say 5 years. Thanks.

I just built a new house 3 years ago and did the finish plumbing and
would like to comment on recirculation water. I had a 48' run from
the water heater to the shower on the other end of the house and
thought it would be wise to put a pump in a loop back to the water
heater. I also purchased a motion sensor switch that I put in the
bathroom to turn the pump on when the room was entered that also had a
manual switch on it so it could be turned off and the pump turned on
manually. These are available at Lowes. I insulated the supply and
return runs to the water heater. In the end I found the pump and my
switch set up were un-necessary since the water would re-circulate by
natural convection. I don't know what the situation would have been
if I would have wanted to do it to an upstairs floor. I would have had
to insulate the pipes going to upstairs walls before covering and so
on. My situation was water heater in basement and shower on the
opposite end of the house worked out fine.
Bill T

Bob F wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
note that in a cold weather area the heater is generally indoors, so
the standby losses help heat the home, thus they really arent lost
except in the summer


But if your gas furnace or heat pump produce the same heat for less
$, you will pay more anyway. Or, heaven forbid, if you try to cool
your house.

Bob

ELECTRICITY is the MOST expensiv per BTU than any other heat source in
most of the country. primarlily because electricity is made frequently
by burning natural gas or other fuel sources, add a step in the process
adds costs

effcency of tank is printed on energy guide label along with average
costs to operate for compatison purposes. foam insulation is very good
today

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any
recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with
a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit
recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like
to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an
efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.
Thanks.
JP


I replaced mine 2 years ago with a top of the line electric Whirlpool from
Lowe's. Since I pay about 14 cents per kilowatt hour I have been monitoring
my electricity usage for 15 plus years. I paid about $325 for the water
heater and know for certain that it has paid for itself in energy savings
already.

Sounds inefficient to me.

Hot water doesn't need to be heated.

--

FF