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Default spot weed killer?

I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Default spot weed killer?

tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without
harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the
best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where
you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed
killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline
work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use
Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a
couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any
suggestions.


What weeds? What works for some weeds will not work for others. I
assume that it is a lawn and that you want to not kill the grass.

There are a number of general lawn weed killers that will not kill the
grass (assuming you don't really overdo it) but will kill many kinds of
weeds) Note: always read the label and make sure it is safe on the grass
you have.

WD-40 is a great Water Displacement, a poor lubricant and a very poor
week killer. Gasoline is good at fueling most cars and can kill almost any
living thing, including grass.

Roundup will kill weeds, but it also kills grass and almost anything
else it gets on.

My suggestion is to identify the type(s) of grass you have and the types
of weeds you want to kill. Then with that information you can read the
labels on the available products to select one. You could also contact your
local county extension service and they would be able to offer some unbiased
suggestions good for your local conditions.

Question: Why would it be so important that it work in less than a few
days? Often that is the best solution. You want to kill it all the way to
the root.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit


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Default spot weed killer?


"tenplay" wrote in message
. ..
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do
it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk
around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed.
Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It
sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow.
It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown.
Thanks for any suggestions.


For years now I have been using weed killer on my weeds. I never thought to
try WD40; I bet they wouldn't squeek so badly afterwards. Thanks for the
idea.


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Default spot weed killer?

tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.


When you are faced with only spot weeds, pulling by hand is best.
Roundup is sure-fire, and can be brushed on so you don't damage
surrounding lawn or plants and is easy to kill tough weeds. If there
are too many to do that, then a hose-end sprayer with a broadleaf weed
killer works very well. Weed/feed combos are not necessary and are too
much chemical for routine use. Just pulling a couple of weeds might
remove several thousand seeds, so it isn't wasted effort.
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Default spot weed killer?

tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.

Hi,
If lawn is healthy weeds can be choked out. What kind of weed?
My lawn is not big in size but I just dig it out when I see weed.


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Default spot weed killer?


tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.


I gave up carpet-bombing my lawn with "Weed and Feed" products because
my trees were suffering for it. Instead, I now use two ounces of
2,4-D + mecoprop + dicambra concentrate per gallon in a pump sprayer
and leisurely walk around the yard spot-spraying broadleaf weeds. It's
so amazingly satisfying to soak a weed and KNOW it will be wilting the
next day, and dead in a week. I maintain my 2-acre lawn this way.
Takes about 40 minutes to walk the whole 2 acres. I do this about four
times during the active growing season. Every year the lawn looks
better and better.

When used properly it won't hurt your grass. Don't spray it on shrubs
though.

Buy the stuff (any brand will do - just make sure to read the label and
check the concentration) at Walmart in late September when they are
clearing the shelves. You can get it for less than half price - 3
bucks a quart. I use about 2 quarts a year for 2 acres plus killing
poison ivy and brush along some wooded trails.

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Default spot weed killer?

Ether Jones wrote:
tenplay wrote:

I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.



I gave up carpet-bombing my lawn with "Weed and Feed" products because
my trees were suffering for it. Instead, I now use two ounces of
2,4-D + mecoprop + dicambra concentrate per gallon in a pump sprayer
and leisurely walk around the yard spot-spraying broadleaf weeds. It's
so amazingly satisfying to soak a weed and KNOW it will be wilting the
next day, and dead in a week. I maintain my 2-acre lawn this way.
Takes about 40 minutes to walk the whole 2 acres. I do this about four
times during the active growing season. Every year the lawn looks
better and better.

When used properly it won't hurt your grass. Don't spray it on shrubs
though.

Buy the stuff (any brand will do - just make sure to read the label and
check the concentration) at Walmart in late September when they are
clearing the shelves. You can get it for less than half price - 3
bucks a quart. I use about 2 quarts a year for 2 acres plus killing
poison ivy and brush along some wooded trails.

Hi,
Hope no children of pets play in your yard! Think environment. Week
killer is most effective whe they are vigorously growing.
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http://www.css.cornell.edu/weedeco/


tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.


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Default spot weed killer?


Tony Hwang wrote:

Hope no children of pets play in your yard! Think environment.


I hope you don't play golf or take your children to the park.

I hope you don't have a swimming pool or stay in hotels.

I hope you never buy groceries at Publix or Winn-Dixie or Kroger or
Meijer or WalMart.

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Tony Hwang wrote:

Hope no children of pets play in your yard!


My pet has no children.



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Default spot weed killer?


I agree with Ether. Using a 2 gallon sprayer, you just walk the lawn
and deliver a spot treatment of an appropriate weedkiller directly to
the weeds. Much more effective than the weed n feed type products.
And much better for the environment, because you only use a small
fraction of the herbicide and deliver it where it works.

For most broadleaf weeds, a product like Weed B Gone is what you want
to use. There are other products that will also kill the weed, but not
the grass, but are targeted more for weeds that are tougher to control.


Only an imbecile would use WD-40 or gas on a lawn, which leads me to
believe the OP is a troll.

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Default spot weed killer?


tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.


This works pretty well, especially after it's broken in and you wear
the paint off the tines:

http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm

I think it's $20 at the Orange Borg.

If you make a noticeable number of holes, scatter some grass seed so
new grass crowds out the weeds. The best defense against weeds is a
healthy lawn.

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Default spot weed killer?

tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.



For most broadleaf weeds (dandelions, thistles, elm tree seedlings, etc)
2,4-d works really well in a spray bottle. It doesn't work for
"creeping charlie" and I'm not sure if it works for wild violets.

You should be able to buy it premixed in a quart spray bottle. I bought
a quart of the concentrate 10 years ago and I've used less than a third
of it.

Bob
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Default spot weed killer?


wrote:
tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.


This works pretty well, especially after it's broken in and you wear
the paint off the tines:

http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm

I think it's $20 at the Orange Borg.

If you make a noticeable number of holes, scatter some grass seed so
new grass crowds out the weeds. The best defense against weeds is a
healthy lawn.


Amen to this item. I tote it around when I mow, because that's when I
notice the dandylions. This is as easy to use as the weed stick
herbicide items, because you don't have to bend over, you just poke the
weed with it in the same way. The holes generally grow over pretty
quick, it's kind of like aerating the lawn. I collect the yanked up
weeds and compost them along with the little plug of dirt holding the
roots.
On the other hand, this doesn't work so well for something like crab
grass or creeping weeds. For those I'm down on my knees to the lawn god.

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clipped

For my 2 acres of lawn, I go through about 2 gallons of prepared
solution (2oz of concentrate per gallon of water) every time I treat
the property (about 4 times every spring). It only takes half an hour
or so.

On the trails through the woods, I go through several gallons (but I
use glyphosate instead of 2,4D).


I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container.
You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all. Do you
trap all the animals and take them somewhere else?
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Norminn wrote:


I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container.


You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal.


You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all.


How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the
woods?


Do you trap all the animals and take them somewhere else?


Please elaborate. There appears to be an implication in your question
but rather than have me guess why don't you just spell it out.

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On 12 Oct 2006 11:02:30 -0700, "Ether Jones"
wrote:


Norminn wrote:


I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container.


You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal.


You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all.


How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the
woods?


I dunno how parks do it, but *I* do it by walking on them.


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tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to
do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly
walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on
the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct
applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that
it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to
begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions.

I have had good results using undiluted vinegar

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Ether Jones wrote:

http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm

The efficacy of this type of tool is a strong function of the soil
type. The tool is not usable in heavy clay soil in dry weather. Voice
of experience.


Well, my dirt turns to adobe when it's dry, and I can still rip up a
plug with this thing without much trouble. It's got a footpeg where you
can stomp on it if just pushing down the handle isn't enough. It works
a little better when the soil is wet, though, just because if the big
old dandelion roots take a jog sideways instead of down and extend out
of the plug, when it's wet they will often still slide out intact when
you pull the thing up, but when it's dry they break off and could still
resprout. So next time you repeat.

Where the thing doesn't work at all is where the dandelion has sprouted
right over top of a root or big rock so you can't plunge the thing to
full depth. The way it's articulated, the nails go in straight down
then when they're full length the tips close in to make an upside cone
that pulls up; so if you can't plunge it down full length you can't
pull up a plug.

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Goedjn wrote:
On 12 Oct 2006 11:02:30 -0700, "Ether Jones"
wrote:


Norminn wrote:


I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container.


You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal.


You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all.


How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the
woods?


I dunno how parks do it, but *I* do it by walking on them.


Not through multiflora rose and poison ivy you don't.

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Goedjn wrote:
On 12 Oct 2006 11:02:30 -0700, "Ether Jones"
wrote:


Norminn wrote:


I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container.


You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal.


You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all.


How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the
woods?


I dunno how parks do it, but *I* do it by walking on them.


Not through multiflora rose and poison ivy you don't.

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z wrote:
Ether Jones wrote:

http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm

The efficacy of this type of tool is a strong function of the soil
type. The tool is not usable in heavy clay soil in dry weather. Voice
of experience.


Well, my dirt turns to adobe when it's dry, and I can still rip up a
plug with this thing without much trouble. It's got a footpeg where you
can stomp on it if just pushing down the handle isn't enough. It works
a little better when the soil is wet, though, just because if the big
old dandelion roots take a jog sideways instead of down and extend out
of the plug, when it's wet they will often still slide out intact when
you pull the thing up, but when it's dry they break off and could still
resprout. So next time you repeat.

Where the thing doesn't work at all is where the dandelion has sprouted
right over top of a root or big rock so you can't plunge the thing to
full depth. The way it's articulated, the nails go in straight down
then when they're full length the tips close in to make an upside cone
that pulls up; so if you can't plunge it down full length you can't
pull up a plug.


Like I said, voice of experience. I have one of these. It is unusable
in my yard in dry weather. The heavy clay soil is like brick when dry.



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Ether Jones wrote:

Like I said, voice of experience. I have one of these. It is unusable
in my yard in dry weather. The heavy clay soil is like brick when dry.


Yow. I guess I better stop whining about my yucky soil!

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Out here in the hot south Texas country, some use gasoline but diesel
works best. It is also illegal as awl git out.
--
Careful how you respond. I have people!

JC

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On Jul 6, 12:16*pm, (hollybooks)
wrote:
responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/spot-weed-killer-155060-.htmhollybooks wrote:

I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough
weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile
new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against
these fat bullies.
I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only
that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. *Suggestions?


Roundup, painted on the leaves.
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hollybooks wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-155060-.htm
hollybooks wrote:
I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough
weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile
new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against
these fat bullies.
I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only
that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. Suggestions?


tenplay wrote:

For tough weeds as you describe, I have used Roundup with great success.
If it is in or too close to desirable grass/plants to spray it, just
put some Roundup in a cup and brush it on the weed you want to get rid
of. Some weeds, esp. those with waxy leaves, may require more than one
application but I haven't found a weed that Roundup won't kill.
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wrote in message
...
hollybooks wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-155060-.htm
hollybooks wrote:
I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these
are tough
weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot
the fragile
new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out
against
these fat bullies.
I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to
kill only
that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance.
Suggestions?


tenplay wrote:

For tough weeds as you describe, I have used Roundup with great
success. If it is in or too close to desirable grass/plants to
spray it, just put some Roundup in a cup and brush it on the
weed you want to get rid of. Some weeds, esp. those with waxy
leaves, may require more than one application but I haven't
found a weed that Roundup won't kill.


Farmers did a version of this as well. A farmer would have a
20-30' long piece of 4" PVC with the ends capped. Inside would be
Roundup and it'd be fastened to the drag links of the tractor. He
would have screw on caps that held a lantern-type wick that was
wrapped around the pipe, with the pipe acting as the reservoir.
When the weeds in a bean field got taller than the beans, he'd
then drive the field with the pipe just above the bean plants.
The taller weeds would get a "licking" from the pipe as it passed
over them, cleaning up the field.

Nonny

--
On most days,
it's just not worth
the effort of chewing
through the restraints..




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On Jul 6, 12:16*pm, (hollybooks)
wrote:
responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/spot-weed-killer-155060-.htmhollybooks wrote:

I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough
weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile
new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against
these fat bullies.
I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only
that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. *Suggestions?


Buy a bag of 33-0-0 ammonium nitrate/sulfate fertilizer. Put about 2
tablespoons on the crown of the weed. The fertilizer will burn & kill
the weed and with the next rain will fertilize the grass around it.
No nasty herbicides in the soil either.

KC

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Helping to result, of course, in a new generation of Roundup resistant
weeds.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/04/bu...nt/04weed.html


Farmers did a version of this as well. *A farmer would have a
20-30' long piece of 4" PVC with the ends capped. *Inside would be
Roundup and it'd be fastened to the drag links of the tractor. *He
would have screw on caps that held a lantern-type wick that was
wrapped around the pipe, with the pipe acting as the reservoir.
When the weeds in a bean field got taller than the beans, he'd
then drive the field with the pipe just above the bean plants.
The taller weeds would get a "licking" from the pipe as it passed
over them, cleaning up the field.


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hollybooks wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-155060-.htm
hollybooks wrote:
I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are
tough weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot
the fragile new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win
out against these fat bullies.
I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill
only that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. Suggestions?


I just use a handheld sprayer with weed-b-gon solution to spray the weed. Since
it doesn't kill the grass, that's all it takes. A container of concentrate lasts
me years.


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