Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or
some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded (or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?



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Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

John writes:

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?

Drill and tap the next larger size screw.

"John" wrote in message
...
Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or
some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded (or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the
receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?




For plastic boxes a #6 drywall screw is a common solution. For metal boxes
I normally retap the hole with a 6/32 or 8/32 tap.
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Some years back, I picked up a really handy tool -- looks like a
screwdriver, but with multiple taps --6-32, 8-32, and 10-32. Very easy
to use for this sort of situation.

professorpaul wrote:

Some years back, I picked up a really handy tool -- looks like a
screwdriver, but with multiple taps --6-32, 8-32, and 10-32. Very easy
to use for this sort of situation.


Yes, I have one of those too, but it only works if the hole is deep
enough (or goes right through the part) to get to the larger sizes you need.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."

John wrote:

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?

just slide a tootpick or two into the hole
then the screw can bite and pull, it will hold

On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 23:38:45 -0700, "John" wrote:

Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or
some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded (or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?

Oversized self tapping screw or sheet metal screw.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ox-141464-.htm
mpw wrote:

John wrote:


Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or

some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded
(or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the
receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?


Over time, the plastic outlet boxes can become brittle and break, also inserting screws that are self tapping or drywall screws will cause the threads to strip and or crack and often prevent the outlet from seating flush.
I am assuming that the existing box has adequate cubic inch rateing and is not overfilled.(you can't put one ton in a half ton truck).If the box is undersized, you will have to remove and replace it.
If the box is not undersized you can try glue, expoxy,tape or a G-clip





--

mpw wrote:
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ox-141464-.htm
mpw wrote:

John wrote:


Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or

some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded
(or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the
receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?


Over time, the plastic outlet boxes can become brittle and break, also inserting screws that are self tapping or drywall screws will cause the threads to strip and or crack and often prevent the outlet from seating flush.
I am assuming that the existing box has adequate cubic inch rateing and is not overfilled.(you can't put one ton in a half ton truck).If the box is undersized, you will have to remove and replace it.
If the box is not undersized you can try glue, expoxy,tape or a G-clip


Interesting. Here is a link to the appropriate form of G-Clip (I never
heard of them before, but then I don't get out much):

http://www.g-clip.us/

On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 22:52:03 -0400, Bill wrote:

mpw wrote:
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ox-141464-.htm
mpw wrote:

John wrote:


Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or

some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded
(or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the
receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?

When I have stripped holes, I put a wooden match or toothpick in the
hole, or part of one.


Over time, the plastic outlet boxes can become brittle and break, also inserting screws that are self tapping or drywall screws will cause the threads to strip and or crack and often prevent the outlet from seating flush.
I am assuming that the existing box has adequate cubic inch rateing and is not overfilled.(you can't put one ton in a half ton truck).If the box is undersized, you will have to remove and replace it.
If the box is not undersized you can try glue, expoxy,tape or a G-clip


Interesting. Here is a link to the appropriate form of G-Clip (I never
heard of them before, but then I don't get out much):

http://www.g-clip.us/

On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 02:44:01 +0000, mpw
wrote:

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ox-141464-.htm
mpw wrote:

John wrote:


Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or

some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded
(or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the
receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?


Over time, the plastic outlet boxes can become brittle and break, also
inserting screws that are self tapping or drywall screws will cause the
threads to strip and or crack and often prevent the outlet from seating
flush.
I am assuming that the existing box has adequate cubic inch rateing and
is not overfilled.(you can't put one ton in a half ton truck).If the box
is undersized, you will have to remove and replace it.
If the box is not undersized you can try glue, expoxy,tape or a G-clip

Plastic electrical boxes suck! Not only do the screws strip, but in
case of an overheated connection, the box will melt or burn. Nails can
also be accidentally driven into them, which will short things out. I
dont and wont use them. Metal boxes cost more, but last almost forever.

As far as your problem, take an extra long screw of the proper gauge,
put a nut on it, and screw the nut all the way to the screw's head.
Epoxy the screw in the plastic box, leaving 3/8 or 1/2 inch sticking
out. When the epoxy is dry, saw off the screw head and remove that nut.
Install the outlet and use the nut to attach it. (Same principal as a
stud bolt). You may have to cut or file off more of that "stud" to make
the cover plate fit.

Junction box is too small. I thought it was an accomplishment to do
it in a Corvair man years ago.

wrote:


As far as your problem, take an extra long screw of the proper gauge,
put a nut on it, and screw the nut all the way to the screw's head.
Epoxy the screw in the plastic box, leaving 3/8 or 1/2 inch sticking
out. When the epoxy is dry, saw off the screw head and remove that nut.
Install the outlet and use the nut to attach it. (Same principal as a
stud bolt). You may have to cut or file off more of that "stud" to make
the cover plate fit.

How do you thread a nut onto a screw?

On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 12:30:30 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 02:44:01 +0000, mpw
m wrote:

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ox-141464-.htm
mpw wrote:

John wrote:


Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes.
These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or

some brownish and brittle material.

I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded
(or
poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the
receptacle
into the box.

What is the solution without replacing the junction box?


Over time, the plastic outlet boxes can become brittle and break, also
inserting screws that are self tapping or drywall screws will cause the
threads to strip and or crack and often prevent the outlet from seating
flush.
I am assuming that the existing box has adequate cubic inch rateing and
is not overfilled.(you can't put one ton in a half ton truck).If the box
is undersized, you will have to remove and replace it.
If the box is not undersized you can try glue, expoxy,tape or a G-clip

Plastic electrical boxes suck! Not only do the screws strip, but in
case of an overheated connection, the box will melt or burn. Nails can
also be accidentally driven into them, which will short things out. I
dont and wont use them. Metal boxes cost more, but last almost forever.

As far as your problem, take an extra long screw of the proper gauge,
put a nut on it, and screw the nut all the way to the screw's head.
Epoxy the screw in the plastic box, leaving 3/8 or 1/2 inch sticking
out. When the epoxy is dry, saw off the screw head and remove that nut.
Install the outlet and use the nut to attach it. (Same principal as a
stud bolt). You may have to cut or file off more of that "stud" to make
the cover plate fit.
If you are going to that extent, you may just as well do it right and
epoxy the nut into the box so you can use a proper screw in the plate.

On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 18:55:50 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

wrote:


As far as your problem, take an extra long screw of the proper gauge,
put a nut on it, and screw the nut all the way to the screw's head.
Epoxy the screw in the plastic box, leaving 3/8 or 1/2 inch sticking
out. When the epoxy is dry, saw off the screw head and remove that nut.
Install the outlet and use the nut to attach it. (Same principal as a
stud bolt). You may have to cut or file off more of that "stud" to make
the cover plate fit.

How do you thread a nut onto a screw?
If it is a "machine screw" it works just fine.

On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 19:05:51 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 18:55:50 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

wrote:


As far as your problem, take an extra long screw of the proper gauge,
put a nut on it, and screw the nut all the way to the screw's head.
Epoxy the screw in the plastic box, leaving 3/8 or 1/2 inch sticking
out. When the epoxy is dry, saw off the screw head and remove that nut.
Install the outlet and use the nut to attach it. (Same principal as a
stud bolt). You may have to cut or file off more of that "stud" to make
the cover plate fit.

How do you thread a nut onto a screw?
If it is a "machine screw" it works just fine.

Which is what I was referring to!!!

replying to yeeha, noBS3 wrote:
I flattened both sides of a round toothpick, then added a drop of Gorilla
glue, and inserted the screw. It seemed to 'bite' well. I'll know for sure
after the glue sets.

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