Have to replace a bad valve. The original set I put in have a
different width between the inlet and outlet piping, than the valves I
can find now. The first one that needed replacement 2 years ago
required me to Rube Goldberg it with some 45 degree and other couplers
to reduce the width to fit the new valve.

Eventually, I'll have to just replace all with a manifold, but that
won't happen this week. The difference in width is just about the OD
of a 1/2 inch pipe.

Is there some trick or method to easily do this, or do I have to jury
(sp?) rig it like the other one?

thanks

Sheri

bizee wrote:
Have to replace a bad valve. The original set I put in have a
different width between the inlet and outlet piping, than the valves I
can find now. The first one that needed replacement 2 years ago
required me to Rube Goldberg it with some 45 degree and other couplers
to reduce the width to fit the new valve.

Eventually, I'll have to just replace all with a manifold, but that
won't happen this week. The difference in width is just about the OD
of a 1/2 inch pipe.

Is there some trick or method to easily do this, or do I have to jury
(sp?) rig it like the other one?

thanks

Sheri


I do not know of an easy / clean way to make up short distances like
that w/o disassembly of the system.

Sounds you'll have to Rube Goldberg it in again; you might consider
Toro Funny Pipe (barbed fitting poly pipe) on the downstream side of
the valve & stuff in a service loop to make your connection. You can
screw in the fitting & then shove the pipe on

http://www.toro.com/sprinklers/pipes/index.html

I use the stuff to "move spriklers" or install extra heads.


When you rebuild / replace the manifold I suggest using Champion
sprinker vavles

I use them in all my sprikler valve installs

Champion red brass atuomatic anti-siphon valves with unions
http://www.championirrigation.com/HT.../Cat_ASVs.html

If you don't want electrical control
http://www.championirrigation.com/HT...es/Cat_MV.html

the electric autators can be added later, if you want

The anti-siphons are a little more expensive but protect the water
system from backflow contamination.

The red brass valve bodies will last a LONG time, the valve guts can be
replaced & the electric autators .can be rebuilt or replaced easily.

I've got some that are approaching 30 years; repalced the solenoids a
few years ago & a couple of actuators before that.

A mainfold setup using these vavles will allow the change out of a
valve in just a few minutes (just make sure you allow enough swing
clearance between valve risers U& use the vavles w/ unions)

I'm not a huge fan of in-line valves; change out is harder & the
anti-siphon feature must be plumbed in seperately

http://www.championirrigation.com/HT.../Cat_BGPG.html

cheers
Bob