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Default Replacement Window Questions

Hello,

Have a few wooden bedroom windows that are about 30 years old, have
some rot on them, and need to be replaced.

Have never looked at window replacements for many a year.
Would like to get some basic info. prior to calling in a contractor.

These are the pretty typical wooden bedroom windows.

a. Do I want to consider Vinyl, which always seem to be advertised ?

There seem to be so many types available like all wood, vinyl over
wood, etc.
Could someone describe a bit re the pros and cons, and costs, of some
of the different types of construction ?

What are the pros and cons of vinyl vs. wood ?
e.g., cost, quality, etc. ?

b. Can a few vinyl windows blend in "well" with the remaining house's
wooden windows ? Are they paintable, or do you just match the outside
vinyl's color to the trim used on the existing wooden windows ?

c. What is meant by "double hung" windows ?

d. Is it worth the extra cost for insulated glass, etc. ? These are
not massive windows; just the regular bedroom size

e. what else should I be thinking of, but aren't smart enough to know
enough to ask here, or to make sure to ask the contractor ?

f. I realize there are a zillion variables involved, but what (live
outside of Boston) are "typical" window prices ? And, as a total price, with
installation ?

Thanks,
B.



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Default Replacement Window Questions

Robert11 wrote:
These are the pretty typical wooden bedroom windows.

a. Do I want to consider Vinyl, which always seem to be advertised ?


Sure, you want to consider it. Consider all your options. Whether you
ultimately go that way is a decision you can make later.

There seem to be so many types available like all wood, vinyl over
wood, etc.
Could someone describe a bit re the pros and cons, and costs, of some
of the different types of construction ?


There's basically the material the window itself is made of and then
there can be material it's clad with either on the interior or exterior
or both.

There's wood-clad vinyl, aluminum clad wood (exterior) and I'm pretty
sure aluminum clad vinyl (exterior). Getting exterior cladding is
supposed to increase durability. Wood-clad vinyl is supposed to look
nicer but personally, I think it's pretty obvious that it's just some
wood panels on top of vinyl - at least from the windows I've seen like
this.

What are the pros and cons of vinyl vs. wood ?
e.g., cost, quality, etc. ?


Vinyl generally costs a bit less, though how much less depends on
quality. A really good quality virgin vinyl window will only be about
10-20% less than a decent wood window, in my experience pricing these
things out.

Of course, YMMV depending on where you live. I live in ultra-expensive
Long Island, where prices are jacked up so high to begin with that any
price differences are lessened, percentage-wise.

b. Can a few vinyl windows blend in "well" with the remaining house's
wooden windows ? Are they paintable, or do you just match the outside
vinyl's color to the trim used on the existing wooden windows ?


I've read that there is a certain type of paint that can be used on
vinyl. But they're not "as" paintable as wood. I think most people
just match the color when they get the windows, though, and leave them
unpainted. That's supposed to be one advantage of vinyl; you don't
have to paint.

As for how they blend, I don't think they do at all. That's one reason
I'm going wood for my replacements. (I'm just a bit further along in
the process than you right now.) If you're getting all your windows
replaced, vinyl might work better, but I just couldn't see having some
vinyl windows and then right next to them having wood. I've already
got a mix of vinyl and wood from the previous owner so I know it
doesn't blend. Vinyl windows are bright white and flat and look like
plastic. Wood windows are textured and imperfect (because wood is
imperfect) and "thick". They will look different no matter what you
do.

c. What is meant by "double hung" windows ?


The kind of windows with an upper and lower sash - the most common type
of window in most houses.

d. Is it worth the extra cost for insulated glass, etc. ? These are
not massive windows; just the regular bedroom size


Most new windows will have some type of insulating glass standard. If
you mean the argon-filled glass, or some other option, then it's
probably not worth it if you plan to only have a few windows done. If
you eventually plan to replace everything, it might be more worth it.
But it's not really going to accomplish anything if you're not doing
the whole house.

e. what else should I be thinking of, but aren't smart enough to know
enough to ask here, or to make sure to ask the contractor ?


Installation. Can be a big part of the expense and supposedly makes
all the difference in your end results. Ask a lot of questions about
how it's going to be done.

If you're going vinyl, make sure you get "virgin" vinyl (the guy I had
show me vinyl windows called it "pure" vinyl - I guess some contractors
don't want to use the word "virgin" in front of customers). Virgin
vinyl supposedly lasts longer, is physically stronger and is a brighter
white.

f. I realize there are a zillion variables involved, but what (live
outside of Boston) are "typical" window prices ? And, as a total price, with
installation ?


Size makes a huge difference.

I have a bunch of windows that are approximately 28x50, 36x50 and 28x56
that I'm getting replaced. These are double-hung windows. On average,
I was quoted $865 per window from Pella, $500 per window from Alure
(for Quantum2 vinyl windows) and around $550 per window for the same
Pella wood windows from Lowes. Those are installed prices.

I'm going with Lowes Pella.

If you've got standard size windows, or you're willing to fill in your
siding and walls a bit, you can always buy cheap pre-made vinyl windows
for like $150 and have them installed. I think that after filling in
the siding and walls, though, that you won't even be that far ahead on
price and you'll have what I would consider an ugly, cheap window. So
you pick your poison. For me, I went with the cheapest price I could
find replacement wood windows that fit in my existing pockets; that
seemed like the best option. But you should look at everything in your
area that you can before making a decision. It can be a big expense so
you want to make a good decision for yourself.

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Default Replacement Window Questions

On Sun, 9 Jul 2006 08:08:50 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Robert11" quickly quoth:

Hello,

Have a few wooden bedroom windows that are about 30 years old, have
some rot on them, and need to be replaced.

Have never looked at window replacements for many a year.
Would like to get some basic info. prior to calling in a contractor.

These are the pretty typical wooden bedroom windows.

a. Do I want to consider Vinyl, which always seem to be advertised ?


Yes.


There seem to be so many types available like all wood, vinyl over
wood, etc.
Could someone describe a bit re the pros and cons, and costs, of some
of the different types of construction ?

What are the pros and cons of vinyl vs. wood ?
e.g., cost, quality, etc. ?


Vinyl is modern and stark but needs no upkeep at all. It wipes clean
and practically nothing sticks to it.

Wood is much more beautiful but needs semi-annual maintenance and/or
refinishing to stay looking good. Had you been more conscientious and
kept yours up, they wouldn't have rotted (as quickly.) Consider annual
home inspections, either on your own or with a handyman or inspector.
It can save you a bundle.


b. Can a few vinyl windows blend in "well" with the remaining house's
wooden windows ? Are they paintable, or do you just match the outside
vinyl's color to the trim used on the existing wooden windows ?


If you paint the wooden sash windows to match the white vinyl, they'll
blend nicely. Like I said, nothing sticks well to vinyl.


c. What is meant by "double hung" windows ?


2 sashes, usually movable vertically.
http://www.jeld-wen.com/_images/win_...ould_DH_ko.jpg

http://www.jeld-wen.com
http://www.pella.com
http://renewalbyanderson.com

Read all about the windows and then formulate questions you want to
ask contractors, Robert.


d. Is it worth the extra cost for insulated glass, etc. ? These are
not massive windows; just the regular bedroom size


Insulated (double pane) windows are ABSOLUTELY worth the extra price.
The'll save it for you in a year or two of lower utility bills and
they'll make the house a lot more comfortable doing so.

I had wooden double-hung sash windows in my last home, a 1939
California ranch style. The windows were a nightmare because of
overpainting and rot. When I moved into this newer (mid-60s) home in
Oregon, it had aluminum framed single-glazed windows. I spent $2,300
(installed) refitting all new white vinyl windows in. 3x6-footers in
the bedrooms and office, 5x10 picture in the living room, 3x6 and 3x4
in the shop (aka garage) and a 6' slider in the dining room. I did my
room first and the difference was 5 degrees within an hour of the
installation. It was warmer than the other rooms even with the door
open. I was sold on the things right then.

My sister lives in the San Francisco Bay area. Her windows were
wood/vinyl and cost $11,000 installed. Mine were JeldWen, hers Pella
or Anderson. Both the windows and installation were at least double my
costs.


e. what else should I be thinking of, but aren't smart enough to know
enough to ask here, or to make sure to ask the contractor ?


I like the low-e windows which prevent more loss of heat in the winter
or heat gain in the summer sun. Ask the contractor what types he
carries and recommends. In a very cold area like that, they might
suggest triple glazed windows. Ask your neighbors what they have. The
manufacturers might have something along that line on their websites,
too. They ship truckloads of different types to different climates.


f. I realize there are a zillion variables involved, but what (live
outside of Boston) are "typical" window prices ? And, as a total price, with
installation ?


I got a real deal here. The window company was an offshoot of his old
man's company and he gave me great prices. A typical vinyl window
(3x6') at the local home improvement center was $139. He sold them to
me for $125 and installed each for $35. Sucha deal!

I weighed the options:
1) that I could take 2 weeks + $100 extra in trim, probably half
killing myself doing them on my own
or
2) give him the extra $420 to do them in 2 days.

It was a no-brainer to let HIM do them for the roughly $300 more.

You'll probably have to triple those prices for Boston. g I
heartily suggest that you get at least 3 bids before doing the job.
Ask each contractor what they suggest and write it all down. If anyone
gives you a new piece of info, use that in asking about your next bid.

Be sure to have them finish trimming and caulking all windows the very
same day they install them. If there's a freak rainstorm, the house
will be sealed against it.

Also, get every change and promise in writing. It will protect you if
something goes wrong. If you have a digital camera, take photos of the
before, during, and after for reference. The better contractors might
want copies so they can put them in their portfolios along with your
kind words for the contractor.

Good luck!


--
When love and skill work together, expect a miracle.
--John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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Default Replacement Window Questions

Great advice above. Couple small things -

- Make sure you're not in an historic district or have some other
requirement (like a neighborhood covenant) that would make you get wood
windows.

- If your house is worth a lot of money, don't get cheap windows.
Personally, I would NEVER get wood windows again, why buy something
that requires maintenance. YMMV !

Here's a big-ass articel from Consumer Reports, it's free he

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/h...view/index.htm

Windows
Upgrading to energy-efficient windows will likely improve your comfort
and your home's aesthetics, but it will take years to recoup the
initial outlay from energy savings

You'll probably want to install new replacement windows when you're
remodeling, when the old ones have deteriorated, or when you want
windows that are easier to wash and maintain.

Modern windows incorporate a frame made of all-vinyl or wood, the
latter often covered in vinyl or aluminum, with two panes of glass.

To cut energy use, those panes are separated with air or another gas
and sometimes specially coated. Improved comfort in the summer and
winter is the major benefit, and slightly reduced heating or cooling
costs will be an added bonus.


WHAT'S AVAILABLE

Window styles include double hung, sliding, hopper, awning, casement,
and bay. The major brands are American Craftsman, Andersen,
CertainTeed, Crestline, Marvin, Pella, Simonton (which also makes Sears
models), and Weather Shield.

Some brands are sold at home centers such as Home Depot, Lowe's, and
Menards. But most brands, including Sears, are typically purchased by
contractors through distributors. Some windows come in custom sizes;
others in stock sizes only. The materials that make a window frame can
affect energy efficiency, maintenance, and price.

Price range: $150 to more than $400 for 3x5-foot, double-hung, double
glazed windows.

Vinyl. These frames are easy to maintain, but they aren't usually
available in many colors. And they are sometimes difficult to match
with existing woodwork. Vinyl windows are often sold as a low-cost
choice. Many were lower-performing models in our tests.

Aluminum. As vinyl frames have become more popular, aluminum frames
have become less so. The biggest drawback is that they allow heat to
escape. That can make the area around the window chilly. In places with
cold winters, a simple aluminum frame can become cold enough to
condense moisture or frost on the inside, but where winters are mild,
aluminum can be a good choice for its durability. If you are set on
buying aluminum-framed windows, choose ones that have "thermally
broken" frames, with insulating material between interior and exterior
components.

Wood. For elegance, wood is difficult to beat, although it usually
costs more than vinyl and requires painting or staining and other
maintenance. To minimize maintenance where it's usually needed
most--the exterior side--many manufacturers cover, or clad, the wood in
vinyl or aluminum. Wood composite frames--some made from a mixture of
wood fibers and plastic resins--are supposed to combine the durability
of wood with the low upkeep of plastics.


Important features

Three types of glazing are commonly available: single, double, and
triple. A single pane of glass, or single-glazed, allows the highest
transfer of energy and offers little insulation against frigid winters
and searing summers. Double-glazed windows have two panes of glass. A
few manufacturers offer triple glazing.

The gas between the glass has a bearing on the quality of insulation.
Plain old air works fine and is standard for some brand lines. Argon
gas, which provides better thermal performance, is standard in other
brand lines; sometimes it is a step-up option. A few top-of-the-line
windows incorporate krypton gas, which provides incrementally better
insulation.

Double- and triple-glazed windows are sealed assemblies so they retain
any special gas between the panes and also keep out moisture, which can
condense between the panes. Should the seal fail, moisture, water
droplets, and fogging between the glass panes can occur.

Clear glass lets a relatively large amount of radiant energy (heat in
from the sun during the summer, heat out from your home during the
winter) to pass through. Low-E coatings (the "E" stands for emissivity,
or the ability of a surface to emit heat) enhance the insulation
quality of a window by making it reflect heat.

These coatings reduce some of the visible light that passes through the
glass and may give a tinted appearance. The view out at night may be
impeded somewhat. The coatings can be fine-tuned for different
climates--a southern or a northern window, for example.

Most new double-hung windows have tilting sashes, a very handy feature
that lets you pivot them inward for easier cleaning. With most, you
simply flip a lever or two to tilt the sash inward. But with some, you
must pull the sash out of the track.

Mullions are decorative vertical elements that separate panes of glass.
To help keep out water, some windows have a thin lip-a strip of wood or
vinyl about an inch high-that rises from the sill. You'll need to work
around it when installing a room air conditioner.


How to choose

Performance differences. Consumer Reports has found most windows do a
very good or excellent job at sealing out a fairly strong wind when the
outside thermometer registers 70° F. Only a handful do well at sealing
out a high wind when the outside temperature drops to zero. When it's
that cold, weather stripping and other components can stiffen or
shrink. Our tests have shown that aluminum frames are durable. But we
have found windows with frames made of vinyl- or aluminum-clad wood can
perform well, too.

Recommendations. If you're replacing windows, choose those that are
designed for your region's climate. Cooling costs predominate in
southern regions, so look for double glazing and a low-E coating. Give
first consideration to windows with a low solar-heat-gain coefficient.
The Department of Energy recommends that the number be 0.4 or lower.

Heating bills are of concern in northern regions. Give priority to
well-insulated, double-glazed windows that are draft-free. A low-E
coating isn't essential in places where summers aren't particularly
hot. In central regions, both heating and cooling are concerns. As in
southern regions, look for double glazing and a low-E coating. You'll
also want high insulating performance and a solar-heat-gain coefficient
of 0.55 or lower.

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