I'm getting ready to build a fence around my yard. I'm looking for
advice/resources about how to sink the fence posts in the ground, IE, how
deep, use sand, gravel, cement, etc. Where to go for help?

http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/posts.htm


Matthew Reed wrote:
I'm getting ready to build a fence around my yard. I'm looking for
advice/resources about how to sink the fence posts in the ground, IE, how
deep, use sand, gravel, cement, etc. Where to go for help?

Matthew Reed wrote:
I'm getting ready to build a fence around my yard. I'm looking for
advice/resources about how to sink the fence posts in the ground, IE, how
deep, use sand, gravel, cement, etc. Where to go for help?

Depends on lots of factors.

What type of fence?
4' tall chain link takes less load than 6' solid wood privacy fence.

What's the climate?
Further north has more problems with frost heave

What's the soil type?
Sandy soil will give more than clay soil.

A good rule of thumb is 2' deep and 3x diameter of post. Add/subtract
to accomodate for the above factors.

Checkout http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/fence.htm for more info.

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My fence man told me to always sink them in concrete, not so much for
stability as rust / rot protection. Some fences like drill pipe fences
would stand on their own just stuck in the ground, but the pipes would
eventually rot away.


Matthew Reed wrote:
I'm getting ready to build a fence around my yard. I'm looking for
advice/resources about how to sink the fence posts in the ground, IE, how
deep, use sand, gravel, cement, etc. Where to go for help?

A few thoughts:

Hole depth - 10% of the post length plus 2 feet. Works just as
well for 120' power poles.

Set the bottom of the post on a stone or brick and trap the bottom
of the post in gravel. This allows moisture to get away from the
bottom of the post and prevents the "swimming pool" effect of
pouring in concrete.

Rammed earth or concrete. Concrete is a bit easier.
Shape or bevel the top of concrete to shed water away from the
post.

Cap or bevel cut the top of posts to prevent water damage.

______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Matthew Reed" nospam at zootal dot com nospam wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to build a fence around my yard. I'm looking
for advice/resources about how to sink the fence posts in the
ground, IE, how deep, use sand, gravel, cement, etc. Where to go
for help?

"Matthew Reed" nospam at zootal dot com nospam wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to build a fence around my yard. I'm looking for
advice/resources about how to sink the fence posts in the ground, IE, how
deep, use sand, gravel, cement, etc. Where to go for help?

Remember if it floats in water on top the ground; it will float in water
below the ground. If your posts are wood then they will tend to float out
of the hole in time if you don't concrete them in. If they are untreated,
then I paint them with a little asphalt roofing cement to help prevent rot.
If you use wood, concrete them in.

If you have metal posts, you may dig the holes with a post hole digger, or
you may drive them in with a pile driver. What is a pile driver? It is a
length of pipe with a larger ID than the OD of the post. You can put a cap
on the end, weld a weight like a sledge hammer or just use the weight of the
pipe itself. You place the post pipe where you want it, plumb it, then
sleeve the top of it with the pile driver. Lift up! Pull down! Lift up!
Pull down. Keep both hands on the pile driver , and keep your body away
from the juncture of the top of the post and the bottom of the pile driver.
Some people lose fingers; others lose chest or belly flesh at the pinch
point. Adjust the plumb as you go, then repeat until the top of the post is
where you want it. It is a rhythmic process so stay alert about those body
parts.

Run a string line from a stake in the ground a foot or two foot away from
the edge of the first post to a similar point relative to the last post at
the end of the line of posts. Keep the string line down low and out of
your way as you drive posts or dig holes. Make sure you start all posts at
exactly the same distance from that string line. If you are digging holes
and setting in concrete, keep a sledge hammer, tape measure, and level
handy to tap these posts to exactly the right place before the concrete
sets up. It takes a LARGE sledge hammer to adjust those posts after the
concrete is dry.

Randy R. Cox

"DanG" wrote in message
news:FSOrg.154468$k%3.33848@dukeread12...
A few thoughts:

Hole depth - 10% of the post length plus 2 feet. Works just as well for
120' power poles.

Set the bottom of the post on a stone or brick and trap the bottom of the
post in gravel. This allows moisture to get away from the bottom of the
post and prevents the "swimming pool" effect of pouring in concrete.

Rammed earth or concrete. Concrete is a bit easier.
Shape or bevel the top of concrete to shed water away from the post.

Cap or bevel cut the top of posts to prevent water damage.

______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


I didn't know the 10% plus 2 feet rule...........and I never thought about
beveling the top of concrete. That was excellent. That's sort of like
turning the slot of a screw vertical so the water will drain and the dust
fall out rather than accumulate.

Thanks,
Randy R. Cox

"Richard Thoms" wrote in message
. ..
Matthew Reed wrote:
I'm getting ready to build a fence around my yard. I'm looking for
advice/resources about how to sink the fence posts in the ground, IE, how
deep, use sand, gravel, cement, etc. Where to go for help?

Depends on lots of factors.

What type of fence?
4' tall chain link takes less load than 6' solid wood privacy fence.

What's the climate?
Further north has more problems with frost heave

What's the soil type?
Sandy soil will give more than clay soil.

A good rule of thumb is 2' deep and 3x diameter of post. Add/subtract to
accomodate for the above factors.

Checkout http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/fence.htm for more info.


Wood panel fence, 6' high. I'm using 4x4x8 posts, pressure treated, ground
contact. It looks like I should dig a 12" hole 2 feet deep, place posts,
fill with concrete.

Any suggestions on whether I should go 8' apart versus 6'? 6' I understand
gives stronger fences, is 8' apart good enough? Oh, I live in Lebanon,
Oregon, mid Willamette Valley. It barely freezes in the winter, and snow is
quite rare. Soil is fairly rich loam, this area used to be river bottom.
Ground water level in winter rises to about 6' or so - enough that every 10
years or so our basements will start to take on water because of the high
ground water. A month or so ago, the water in my well was at 9'. I'm going
to take a reading today and see where it is.

Matthew Reed wrote:

Any suggestions on whether I should go 8' apart versus 6'? 6' I
understand gives stronger fences, is 8' apart good enough?

8' obviously requires less work.

6' is sturdier.

Consider the wind.

If you go with 8', pay particular attention to sagging. I'd put diagonal
2x4s to brace the top runner. Even so, the diagonal has to be cheaper and
easier than 25% more posts.

Also, for me, I'd use metal posts. Cheaper, smaller holes to dig, less
concrete, last longer, easier to replace, variety of brackets to attach
various things.

One more trick: Buy the pickets and store them in your garage for a couple
of months. Allow for plenty of air circulation to dry them out (use a fan).
If you install them fresh-from-the-store, when they DO dry you'll have 1/4"
(or more) gaps.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
Matthew Reed wrote:

Any suggestions on whether I should go 8' apart versus 6'? 6' I
understand gives stronger fences, is 8' apart good enough?

8' obviously requires less work.

6' is sturdier.

Consider the wind.

If you go with 8', pay particular attention to sagging. I'd put diagonal
2x4s to brace the top runner. Even so, the diagonal has to be cheaper and
easier than 25% more posts.

Also, for me, I'd use metal posts. Cheaper, smaller holes to dig, less
concrete, last longer, easier to replace, variety of brackets to attach
various things.

One more trick: Buy the pickets and store them in your garage for a couple
of months. Allow for plenty of air circulation to dry them out (use a
fan). If you install them fresh-from-the-store, when they DO dry you'll
have 1/4" (or more) gaps.


What is customary? I have a short run of 8' spaced wood fence built by the
previous owner, and it seems OK but it's not that old. I like the idea of
bracing the top runner - digging 30 holes instead of 38 is 8 holes I don't
have to dig, 8 batches of concrete I don't have to mix :P

How about the posts a gate will be hanging on. Any recomendations, is a 8'
4x4 buried 2 feet deep good enough, or should I got 4x6 and bury it a foot
deeper to make sure it's strong enough?