Which nailer for molding?
 

I need to put up base, chair rail and maybe some ceiling molding in my
kitchen and perhaps elsewhere in my house. I don't think I have any
other obvious need for a nailer, but I don't intend to use a hammer.
The walls in my house are plaster over the plasterboard with the 1"
holes in it.

I'm trying to get off as cheaply as possible here. Can I get away with
a brad nailer + adhesive? Or must I use a finish nailer (16 gauge)?

Greg

Which nailer for molding?
 

Greg,
I have the same type of plaster in my house and actually just finished a
base, wainscot, and crown molding project. We used a finish nailer and
everything worked out fine. I wonder if you could use some kind of
adhesive like liquid nails though. It would probably make putting the
molding on easier as you won't have to fill any nail holes, but it might
be an absolute pain in the butt if you have to take it off. I was mainly
thinking of the adhesive route as I spent hours filling in all the nail
holes with compound.
I've never tried using a brad nailer for this type of job, but as a combo
with adhesive it might do the job. Maybe someone else in the group has
used one for molding.

Mike

Which nailer for molding?
 

Greg Guarino wrote:
I need to put up base, chair rail and maybe some ceiling molding in my
kitchen and perhaps elsewhere in my house. I don't think I have any
other obvious need for a nailer, but I don't intend to use a hammer.
The walls in my house are plaster over the plasterboard with the 1"
holes in it.

I'm trying to get off as cheaply as possible here. Can I get away with
a brad nailer + adhesive? Or must I use a finish nailer (16 gauge)?

Greg
An angled 15g nailer would be best based upon your description. 16G may
be OK as well but angled would be more versatile. Brad nailer would be
too small.

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Which nailer for molding?
 

I've put up loads of base, chair rail, casing and even crown molding
with an 18ga brad nailer (no adhesive) and never had any issues. Just
make sure you hit the studs.


Greg Guarino wrote:
I need to put up base, chair rail and maybe some ceiling molding in my
kitchen and perhaps elsewhere in my house. I don't think I have any
other obvious need for a nailer, but I don't intend to use a hammer.
The walls in my house are plaster over the plasterboard with the 1"
holes in it.

I'm trying to get off as cheaply as possible here. Can I get away with
a brad nailer + adhesive? Or must I use a finish nailer (16 gauge)?

Greg

Which nailer for molding?
 

Liquid nails should only used in very limited circumstances. Like attaching
a small piece of molding to a masonry wall.

The reason is that you would have to come up with some sort of brace to hold
up the molding until the glue set.

An 18 gauge that can handle 2.25" nails should be long enough and the holes
are very small.


"mikeytag" wrote in message
news:7a085f88fff60e25e9505dbf82482551@homerepairli ve.com...
Greg,
I have the same type of plaster in my house and actually just finished a
base, wainscot, and crown molding project. We used a finish nailer and
everything worked out fine. I wonder if you could use some kind of
adhesive like liquid nails though. It would probably make putting the
molding on easier as you won't have to fill any nail holes, but it might
be an absolute pain in the butt if you have to take it off. I was mainly
thinking of the adhesive route as I spent hours filling in all the nail
holes with compound.
I've never tried using a brad nailer for this type of job, but as a combo
with adhesive it might do the job. Maybe someone else in the group has
used one for molding.

Mike

Which nailer for molding?
 

I don't think I have any
other obvious need for a nailer, but I don't intend to use a hammer.
The walls in my house are plaster over the plasterboard with the 1"
holes in it.

I'm trying to get off as cheaply as possible here. Can I get away with
a brad nailer + adhesive? Or must I use a finish nailer (16 gauge)?

I used a 18 ga nailer w/ 2" bradnails for ours. Worked great. They're
cheap now..around 20-30 bucks at HFT and other Chinese tool sources as long
as you have a compressor. If not, you can pick them as cheap as $ 69.00 now
at Pep Boys of HFT as well...under $ 100 for both

Which nailer for molding?
 

On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 07:40:16 GMT, "Rudy"
wrote:


I don't think I have any
other obvious need for a nailer, but I don't intend to use a hammer.
The walls in my house are plaster over the plasterboard with the 1"
holes in it.

I'm trying to get off as cheaply as possible here. Can I get away with
a brad nailer + adhesive? Or must I use a finish nailer (16 gauge)?

I used a 18 ga nailer w/ 2" bradnails for ours. Worked great. They're
cheap now..around 20-30 bucks at HFT and other Chinese tool sources as long
as you have a compressor. If not, you can pick them as cheap as $ 69.00 now
at Pep Boys of HFT as well...under $ 100 for both



If you are looking for cheap, use finishing nails, a nail set, and
hammer. Nailers, particularly the cheaper ones, jamb, mark
walls/molding, and often can't shoot a brad in straight.

Which nailer for molding?
 

Greg Guarino wrote:

I need to put up base, chair rail and maybe some ceiling molding in my
kitchen and perhaps elsewhere in my house. I don't think I have any
other obvious need for a nailer, but I don't intend to use a hammer.
The walls in my house are plaster over the plasterboard with the 1"
holes in it.

I'm trying to get off as cheaply as possible here. Can I get away with
a brad nailer + adhesive? Or must I use a finish nailer (16 gauge)?

Greg

Greg,

I use the Stanley Bostitch N60FN, which is a finish nailer and I use 2"
nails in it. Shoots them straight and doesn't mar the finish with the
rubber boot on the nailer. I too would not use a hammer for that job.
I've tried the brad gun but the molding pops out over time.

J