How hard is it ...................
 

to make a couple of screen doors?

I have located some Western cedar for $.95 per foot. 1x4, nominal 11/16" x
3 1/2".

I calculate that it will take 15 lineal feet per door, so figure I can add
some extra pieces and call it 50' total for a cost of $50.

I can either rout some channels, or perhaps buy channeling for the rubber
bulb to go in and hold the screen.

Hinges and clasp, another $20 tops. Total cost for 2 doors, around $100.

The cheapest I have found these doors for is $300 for two, and up from
there, some being $450 each.

I have access to a power miter saw, doweling jigs, and about everything one
would need to do a decent job. Just how hard would it be to get these flat,
square, and nice looking?

I don't think that hard.

Anyone else ever done these?

Caveats? Pointers?

Steve

How hard is it ...................
 

No rubber channel on wood screen doors, the wood is bowed a bit and the
screen stapled into a rabbet and as the bow is released the screen is
tensioned. Rabbet, staples and raw edge get's covered with moulding
strip.
Double your cost estimate. Observe the joinery in a professionally
made door.

How hard is it ...................
 

"Steve B" wrote in message
to make a couple of screen doors?


I don't think that hard.

Anyone else ever done these?

Can't be that tough. Take a close look at the commercial jobs and copy, use
waterproof glue. You may get more answers posting on rec.woodworking

How hard is it ...................
 

yeah, i've made some. i wouldn't use dowels, as the joint is what
keeps it from racking. i've used a lap joint, but double bisquits
would proably work. main thing is to have wood that behaves and stays
flat. 11/16 cedar is a little light duty, too. 5/4 would be better.
nice to have some wider material for the rails---that will help with
strength too.

How hard is it ...................
 

wrote:
No rubber channel on wood screen doors, the wood is bowed a bit and
the screen stapled into a rabbet and as the bow is released the
screen is tensioned. Rabbet, staples and raw edge get's covered with
moulding strip.

Yes, that's normal but one *can* use a metal channel and rubber spline. I
got tired of the PITA of replacing screen (cat) in my conventional wooden
one and routed a dado for the aluminum channel that is about 1/4 x 1/2. Ran
some caulk in, set the channel in the caulk, let dry, applied the screen and
spline. Much easier to change now.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

How hard is it ...................
 

to make a couple of screen doors?


Well like anything else, having the right tools makes a project possible.

I look at the cost of buying [whatever] already made vs the cost of buying
or renting the tools.

Then there is a learning curve. Second one may come out better than first.
And using the screen doors, you may find there are problems, then re-design
them, then 3rd door is even better.

Tip: Nothing is square! Measure the tops and bottoms of the door opening as
well as left and right sides. Might find that the measurements are
different. Don't assume you can measure the width in the middle and it will
be the same at the top and bottom!

Also may want to snoop around and look at how other screen doors are
constructed.

How hard is it ...................
 

Steve B wrote:
to make a couple of screen doors?

I have located some Western cedar for $.95 per foot. 1x4, nominal 11/16" x
3 1/2".

I calculate that it will take 15 lineal feet per door, so figure I can add
some extra pieces and call it 50' total for a cost of $50.

I can either rout some channels, or perhaps buy channeling for the rubber
bulb to go in and hold the screen.

Hinges and clasp, another $20 tops. Total cost for 2 doors, around $100.

The cheapest I have found these doors for is $300 for two, and up from
there, some being $450 each.

I have access to a power miter saw, doweling jigs, and about everything one
would need to do a decent job. Just how hard would it be to get these flat,
square, and nice looking?

I don't think that hard.

Anyone else ever done these?

Caveats? Pointers?

Steve


Been there, done that - If cost is your only concern then you will be
better off buying one unless you have an odd side or a special design.

I made one from straight grain douglas fir IIRC. Mortise and tenon
joinery is a must. The screen is stapled and the staples are covered
with a molding. The last one I build had 8 curved inside corners top
section and bottom section. Then custom made curved moldings attached
with brass screws to cover the staples in the screen. End result was
painted. It was modeled after one made in teak I saw in the islands.

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