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Jack
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

I'm using type L instead of type M copper for re-piping my whole house where
only M is required by code. Mostly it will be installed in the crawl space
below a wood structure. Am I wasting my money or will it provide better
reliability say 20 to 30 years from now.


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Tony Hwang
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

Jack wrote:
I'm using type L instead of type M copper for re-piping my whole house where
only M is required by code. Mostly it will be installed in the crawl space
below a wood structure. Am I wasting my money or will it provide better
reliability say 20 to 30 years from now.


Hmmm,
I thought L is thinner wall pipe compared to M?????
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Calvin Henry-Cotnam
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

Tony Hwang ) said...

Hmmm,
I thought L is thinner wall pipe compared to M?????


M is the thinnest, then there is L, then there is K.

M and L thicknesses come in rigid pipe, while K comes in bendable tubing
like the stuff often used for the burried incoming supply line.

--
Calvin Henry-Cotnam
"I really think Canada should get over to Iraq as quickly as possible"
- Paul Martin - April 30, 2003
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Toller
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?


"Jack" n wrote in message
news
I'm using type L instead of type M copper for re-piping my whole house
where only M is required by code. Mostly it will be installed in the crawl
space below a wood structure. Am I wasting my money or will it provide
better reliability say 20 to 30 years from now.
Around here M is not allowed. They require K for gas.

Reliability 20 years from now is not the issue; if everything is done
correctly and not subsequently damaged, either will be fine. It is just
that M will be damaged by things that don't bother L. (Sad but true, a year
ago I nicked a pipe while putting up a partition wall. Made no difference
to the L, but probably would have ruptured M.)

Even if your code doesn't require it, it seems like a good investment.


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EXT
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

Had a short length of pipe in my garage that went from the house to an
outside faucet. Even though I drained it, type "M" pipe split open like
aluminum foil over winter. There couldn't be more than a few drops of water
in the line but it split three winters in a row. I changed it to type "L"
and had no problems with it since. I am sold on the durability of type "L".

"Jack" n wrote in message
news
I'm using type L instead of type M copper for re-piping my whole house
where only M is required by code. Mostly it will be installed in the crawl
space below a wood structure. Am I wasting my money or will it provide
better reliability say 20 to 30 years from now.





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Robert Green
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

I'd also wager that the thicker pipe is more immune to the pinhole leak
problem from additives that has plagued some areas of the country.

--
Bobby G.

"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
Had a short length of pipe in my garage that went from the house to an
outside faucet. Even though I drained it, type "M" pipe split open like
aluminum foil over winter. There couldn't be more than a few drops of

water
in the line but it split three winters in a row. I changed it to type "L"
and had no problems with it since. I am sold on the durability of type

"L".

"Jack" n wrote in message
news
I'm using type L instead of type M copper for re-piping my whole house
where only M is required by code. Mostly it will be installed in the

crawl
space below a wood structure. Am I wasting my money or will it provide
better reliability say 20 to 30 years from now.





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PipeDown
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

In addition to better resistance to the forces of freezing (pressure inside
the pipe) and corrosion (developing pinhole leaks) you can also add
resustance to crushing especially if buried or clamped hard.



"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
I'd also wager that the thicker pipe is more immune to the pinhole leak
problem from additives that has plagued some areas of the country.

--
Bobby G.

"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
Had a short length of pipe in my garage that went from the house to an
outside faucet. Even though I drained it, type "M" pipe split open like
aluminum foil over winter. There couldn't be more than a few drops of

water
in the line but it split three winters in a row. I changed it to type "L"
and had no problems with it since. I am sold on the durability of type

"L".

"Jack" n wrote in message
news
I'm using type L instead of type M copper for re-piping my whole house
where only M is required by code. Mostly it will be installed in the

crawl
space below a wood structure. Am I wasting my money or will it provide
better reliability say 20 to 30 years from now.







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~Roy
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

Then you would be really impressed with type "K"
We used type L strictly for heating, and K for all water lines hot or
cold...........



On Fri, 05 May 2006 22:26:53 GMT, "PipeDown"
wrote:
In addition to better resistance to the forces of freezing (pressure inside
the pipe) and corrosion (developing pinhole leaks) you can also add
resustance to crushing especially if buried or clamped hard.



"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
I'd also wager that the thicker pipe is more immune to the pinhole leak
problem from additives that has plagued some areas of the country.

--
Bobby G.

"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
Had a short length of pipe in my garage that went from the house to an
outside faucet. Even though I drained it, type "M" pipe split open like
aluminum foil over winter. There couldn't be more than a few drops of
water
in the line but it split three winters in a row. I changed it to type "L"
and had no problems with it since. I am sold on the durability of type
"L".

"Jack" n wrote in message
news I'm using type L instead of type M copper for re-piping my whole house
where only M is required by code. Mostly it will be installed in the
crawl
space below a wood structure. Am I wasting my money or will it provide
better reliability say 20 to 30 years from now.








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buffalobill
 
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Default Type "L" hot and cold water copper lines?

go with the thicker gauge, but also increase the pipe size to at least
3/4" everywhere for good flow thru unrestricted full orifice ball
valves. our water is coming off a new 1" main with only 42psi. buffalo
ny.

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